Don't remember what I used. It's a bit old. But literally a $20 code reader will work, or, go to Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, Napa, etc. and they will read the code for you for free. But do get a code reader. But if you really need one.... amzn.to/3XcFu2Y or even better amzn.to/4cBTCY5 I hope this helps. Good luck
Hola, me pasa lo mismo, se me quedó trabado en la P y no deja hacer nada, enciende perfectamente, tú solo quitaste la pieza de plástico o la reemplazaste? Gracias
@@Turbo_Snailmuchas gracias, voy a probarlo porque se me quedó igual que a usted, trabada en parking, arranca y todo y ya antes se me atascó un par de veces pero ya aquí se me quedó trabada, ya contaré
Acabo de hacerlo, retiré la pieza de plástico y no puse nada, hasta ahora súper bien y no se traba, mis dieces por el vídeo, sencillo de hacer solo hay q dedicar un rato y costo 0$
The aluminum piece unfortunately fails just like the plastic. I’m a 3rd owner of an S430 and apparently at some point, a previous mechanic did this fix and now the aluminum actually got worn at one point to cause my car to get stuck in park. Nice video regardless though, it helped me do this step by step myself!
That’s discouraging if the aluminum piece breaks as well. Even tho we added it with this video, originally we had just removed it and left it without one.
I absolutely hate the music you're playing while doing the install. I would have enjoyed the video more with just the sound of metal on metal. Otherwise very helpful video
Because when I did the video an aluminum version didn’t exist. There is someone working on making an aluminum version but I’m not sure it’s available yet for purchase. Also, the picture is from Mopar website and it is plastic. 🤓
For this purpose, it’s all the same. MAP, IAT, MAF. The cleaning procedure is the same. If it’s left in the vehicle, make sure the power or sensor is disconnected and not hot. Do not have the vehicle running while spraying this on the sensor. It may burn out.
Just one. Maybe I don’t know. Where is the other one? Some cars like Porsche can have up to 4 fuel pumps, however these cars are manufactured to a budget. So wherever they can save some money, they will. The 200, 300 or any of the regular dodge/chrysler cars have just one fuel pump. Some hellcat models have as many as 3 fuel pumps. They have to push a large amount of fuel.
@jakethetruth could be. If it’s the hellcat engine. I don’t think even the 392 has 2 pumps but I could be wrong. The Pentastar doesn’t need 2 fuel pumps. Either way, when you put the ignition in run, with the seat removed, you should hear a hum from the one that works.
@jakethetruth sounds like that’s what you need. You can either get the cheap in like I did or get the correct one by pulling it out and checking. There isn’t really much documentation on what’s what and for what vehicle. I had to swap mine around. It wasn’t difficult but a pain in my ass.
Disconnect the battery. Check if you have two of them. Make sure there is no power going to the computers. Give it 30 minutes. Reconnect and see if it works. However, if you have an error that you didn't have before, or the suspension is not working as expected, I'm willing to bet there is something not connected properly.
I own a 2004 S500. Front shock went out. I replaced both front Arnott shocks both cost me 1400 but oh well. I did the work and I’m done. Oh wait I have an error code. Says go to shop Airmatic shock error. How do I reset this myself? Shocks work kind of but don’t drop after I part.
Hm. Sounds like you paid a premium for just the 2 front ones. You should have to do anything. Sounds like maybe a wire is not properly connected or follow the wires back, maybe they have a cut or shortage somewhere. The Arnott should work out of the box. We did all 4 and haven’t had any issues.
200.00 shifter on eBay got me in the road. I ordered the metal replacement part. Reassembled the old shifter. Now I have a back up shifter if I ever need it. Part replacing the old plastic part that broke cost me 11.00 on eBay. Thanks for for your video. Car was on the road with the quick hammer fix and now safely in the Road. 😊
I always use assembly lube. I once pinched an o-ring on a fuel injector and fuel was spraying everywhere. Ever since, I got assembly lube and what a difference that makes.
Probably not. I left the original coolant in there but I had to top it off. I did an oil change however as it was time for it anyways. When you take it apart, you’ll see how much it cross contaminated. If it’s a few drops I would not worry about but if it’s low on coolant and you see all the old oil rushing into that hole, I would consider flushing the coolant as well.
Hi Daniel I know it s a long time you did this but I am hoping that you can help me. I have w220, I put this plastic piece out, it was broken. I have shifter in my desk and when I am trying to move handle it s not going or stuck on N or I don t know where. When i put shifter on side no matter left or rught i can move handle normaly. In video you didn t try move handle in garage so I don t know if this is ok Thank you
It’s probably just hard to love. If that plastic piece is broken, make sure it all comes out. Mine came out in 2 pieces. Once you install it, just test it. It should work.
Dude you should get your parts from Rockauto instead, wayyyyy cheaper. Also you should put the brand model and year of the car in the video title and in the description to help you get more views.
Thank you. I tried rock auto a couple of times but it just didn’t work out. The install for the fuel pump is pretty much the same for any Pentastar powered vehicle. Somehow however, they got 3 different fuel pumps for the same engine and no explanation why they are different. Even in Mopars website, I enter my vehicle and it shows all 3.
More fuel doesn’t work unless you have more air. All these manufacturers were within the margin of tolerance. The difference, which we didn’t test, is the consistency and longevity. A coil on plug is not like a traditional setup. These engines are pushed to the limit because they are computer controlled and everything is accounted for. A 3.6l engine 30 years ago had about 150hp, today they ouch 300-400 from the factory. Any change you made back then mattered. Bolt ons hitt’n different these days.
If you’re a mechanic, this should be really easy for you. Especially on a Jeep. The 200 is kinda crammed with the fwd setup. Basic tools are good. Yes, new gaskets is a good idea. Mine worked well with the old ones as mine had like 10k miles on them and I had no issues. I didn’t realize they came without it (back then).
I have a 2013 Dodge Caravan. Would this modification work on the 3.6 liter that is in my van? Also I can't find in the description or in your video where you mentioned a part number of the lower intake manifold that you're putting on. I hope you are active on these comments and actually see this. Otherwise great video. I will be subscribing.
Yes, thanks for watching. Head over to Facebook group PentastarV6Performance, there is actually a part list for all vehicles. I think I may have put it also into the description but this list is a few years old and some things may be discontinued. Everybody who installed this absolutely loves it. I think the 2013 Caravan is old enough where it didn't come with it. The change-over happened at different years for the various model lineups.
Not sure. I'd love to get hands on one. I think it's the right direction. These plastic things are "temporary" at best. I understand why manufacturers went from steel to aluminum. I really don't understand plastic parts under the hood other than making cars obsolete sooner. Look at BMW and I heard Audi, they have plastic oil pans. How long will that last. I hope for a good aftermarket for the people who make aluminum parts. I'll support them to make sure they survive.
Agreed. This is a design that Mercedes had and Chrysler inherited. It's a design flaw. It should be made so no tools can be attached to it but rather a design like a wing nut so you can use the might of your hand and have it hand tight. Like the oil filler cap. I always put assembly fluid on the o-ring. I once pinched that o-ring and you know what happened next. Great video link. Informative and to the point.
Turn the comments on. Our community is not as bad as the mustang guys. This is good info that many mess up. I use a pick from Harbor freight to remove that o-ring. Also, there is a torque number on my housing. Not sure whether the Challenger/charger cars have it as well.
I'm starting to hear "supercharger noises" out of my 200 now. Which can only mean a bearing is going bad. The questions is, which one. And, to make things worse, there is absolutely no space to get any tools in there. Gosh do I miss rear wheel drive cars...
There is a lot of misinformation in this video. PSe pumps need to be programmed for specific features of the car. Programming can be transferred with xentry from an old pump to a new pump if the circuit board of the old pump is not damaged. These are not plug and play. In this car he was lucky and got a pump that was from a similar model with exact options.
Thanks for your input. Yes, generally you have to program these to your vehicle. However, if you match the numbers as explained in the video it will work. Many people have done it, I personally have done 4 cars like that. That would be a lot of luck. It’s the easiest and simplest way to do it without getting expensive equipment or professionals involved. Other people choose to rebuild the pump which is another way to do it. What counts in the end is that it works, for cheap.
Nice Video! But yes cost wise, better deal. But performance. For sure you miss the "bite" your S class had with the drilled rotors. Better for cooling, designed that way from factory.
True, but it’s not in the rotors, it’s in the pads. Check out my other video about brakes. I learned a lot talking to EBC about that. Drilled tends to crack, I went slotted for cooling performance. If you like the drilled look go dimpled like in our Miata. But you pick performance in your pads. I drive red stuff in my 200, yellow on the Miata, green on all other cars. Also by getting rid of the holes you increase surface area, so there is more contact with the pads.
@Turbo_Snail yes, the cracking I've noticed on the drilled as well. For slotted, yes better cooling if it's a split pad from my experience, but with that I've also noticed decreased longevity from the pads, they tend to wear faster oddly from daily use on daily driver.
@alvinbaez2006 actually. Because you have less surface area, people (like me) pair them with more aggressive pads. If you would get less aggressive pads it would last just as long in exchange for less bite. So it’s always a trade off. My red stuff pads with the slotted rotors were down 75% after 36k miles. They are also a bit more dusty than the oem stuff. The cars I drive more aggressive with, have heavier duty, “dirtier” pads. The dailies have just basic stuff. Our journey is on smooth rotors with green pads. I can barely even measure any wear after 30k miles. They look like new. Also, newer cars are so obese that we find people going through pads every 25k miles and tires as little as 15k miles. My neighbor has a Tesla model S and he gets new tires 10-12k miles. It’s insane.
Good question. Im not sure what the part numbers are but they should be available at the dealer. WIX and Puralator manufactures these for Mopar. I’m sure you can go aftermarket as well if you don’t care for the blue. Or a quick call to your local dealer should get you the part number as well. I usually buy Mopar stuff online at a big discount.
Don’t really remember. It’s an old video. But it was solid compared to the old worn out one. If in doubt, always go OEM. This cheap one just worked for us.
I bought a new Motive bleeder kit along with motive adapter that is advertised as compatible with Hyundai / Kia. I had mixed results. I just read the quick instructions on the box. ( No long detailed instructions paper included - you are supposed to print them from the Motive website & the FAQ's ) I skipped the dry test, where you connect the system, no fluid, & hold 13-15 psi pressure for ten minutes. and poured brake fluid into the Motive pump. I pumped and around 11 psi the adapter leaked fluid on my engine. NASTY. Of course, i picked the wrong size rubber o-ring adapter ( its not a spare they are different sizes).q I cleaned up. I then unscrewed the adapter, cleaned it , and screwed it back on, albeit tighter. Now the system holds pressure fine. Proceeded to bleed my brakes. Good. However, when I attempted to remove the motive adapter, it wouldn't turn. Tried & tried. Read on internet to double-check counterclockwise to remove . Waited for next day, my 250 lbs couldn't unscrew the adapter. Now im driving with the adapter still on but corked and encased in duct tape. Frustrating. I emailed Motive Support & they responded there is no procedure to remove an over tightened & wrong size rubber o ring. They pointed me to slip joint / Channel lock pliers .
That's really frustrating what you went through. Must have been a bad unit. I have adapters for Dodge, Mazda and Ford and I didn't have any issues. I love this thing. Maybe they'll hook you up with a replacement unit.
I removed my black pse case, hear like a loose screw or something inside, but I've tried really hard and I cannot pull the plastic casing apart to look inside!
I replaced MINE PREEMPTIVELY on my 2017 Pacifica because I don't EVER want to see leaking oil or coolant and the eight hundred bucks I paid is cheap insurance vs eight THOUSAND for a new engine. Yes, DORMAN ALUMINUM....Chrysler should NEVER have chosen plastic for this piece. A plastic intake? Yeah okay no biggie but oil and coolant heat exchanger??? Always use metal. Chrysler's refusal to admit this cripples a wonderful engine because of a cheap plastic part is outrageous. But apparently a lot of manufacturers are being just as stupid, not just Chrysler.
@@Turbo_Snail Thanks Turbo! Just to be certain - I can replace Slave & Master cylinder to get clutch engaging and functional again? It's a 1990, 215K miles, rarely driven however love the car and eager to get it back out on the road! I can't thank you enough for your insight and support!
Yes you can. It’s easier with a second person but this job is totally doable by one self. Let me know how you did. Make sure you bleed it properly. That clutch will feel nice again.
I could be wrong, but it looked like u forgot to hike up the coolant hose clamp going to the oil filter housing. Never saw u grab it with pliers and the placement in the video looks pretty far back where I can’t really see mine after I tighten it. I could be wrong of course.
I appreciate looking out. I did in fact do it. When I edited the video I noticed the same thing and I stuck a GoPro down there and it is on properly. I scared me for a moment.
I know this is an older feed but my storage bin holder, the metal part it's self is dented and I was wondering if you had any problems with yours getting dented and any ideas regarding who to talk to about this. I hit something that dented both sides so my plastic containers don't fit flush any longer.
🤔 I would imagine a body shop could fix that. The metal is way too hard down there to apply any home remedies. Mine are not dented but I have seen some cars being lifted on the bin rather than the frame.
@@Turbo_Snail Thanks, I will get ahold of a bodyshop and see what they can do to knock it back into place, I will keep you posted, thanks for the reply.
@@Turbo_Snail I will follow your suggestion there, both are dented one is worse than the other, I'm thinking a grand or more now after your quotes. I was hoping maybe they bolted on to make it easier. Thanks Turbo !
@richardhill2379 if you’re not going to use them for its intended purposes, we’ve used ours maybe 2 dozen times in 11 years, I don’t think it’s worth fixing. Just make sure there is no water coming in and I would leave dented.
Out of curiosity how does silicone paste work for a loose sun visor that does not stay up wouldn't that make it even more floppy, I can understand the first one but the second one doesn't make sense to me ?
That’s an excellent question. It’s too dry, tight, so it doesn’t let it snap in all the way at the end. What happens when you flip it up, it’s all plastic and it bends as it’s not “loose” enough. Instead of rotating, you’re actually bending the “stick”. Lubricating it, lets it reduce resistance, less flex and therefore it’ll reach that point where it needs to sit. It’s really hard for me to explain without any visual aid. It doesn’t always work. It’s really a bandaid because inevitably it’ll just fail. This usually gives it another 2, 3 or 4 years of operation before you have to ultimately replace it.
Jeep has gotten greedy lately. Apparently they bankrupted in china, can’t sell any cars any where else either. Seems they thought they were a premium brand with premium prices. Come to find out they forgot their place and got cocky. Now they are stuck with thousands of cars that are aging on dealers lots. Get ready to pick up a Jeep for cheap and use it for its intended purpose and not grocery store parking lots.
I haven't noticed any oil leaks on my 2015 Durango Limited, but I have noticed over the last few months the oil temp is running about 30 degrees hotter than it used to. Used to run consistently from 180-195 degrees. Never went above 199, even in summer. Now I'm seeing regular temps in the 220-224 degree range. Water and trans temps are normal. 150k and no towing or hard driving... and it's not even very hot yet (I live in south Texas). Haven't changed anything... just regular oil changes as always. Was wondering if the increased temps could be related to some sort of failure with this oil cooler? Has anyone else noticed higher oil temps on their 3.6?
Hm. Better ask over on Facebook at PentastarV6Performance. You getting the oil changed at a shop? Did they actually use the correct oil or what you asked for? That doesn’t sound like an oil cooler failure to me. Hot oil means there is more friction where you don’t want it. Water can only cool so much. I doubt it’s a sensor failure either.
@@Turbo_Snail No, I do all my own work/maintenance so I know it's done right. Saw a couple of things on a MOPAR page I'm going to check out. We'll see. Anyway, thanks for the reply. Blessings.
