First time seeing/hearing your bench test of one of these Autronic Eye units! It is interesting seeing/hearing its system components in action. I’ve acquired back ‘round oh, 2017, an amazingly restored, CORRECT, complete system for this fantastically SciFy option, for one of my ‘55 Buick Super 56R 2 Dr Coupe HT cars, thru that ‘one’ dude that restores/sells this units. His first name is John.. last name eludes me at the moment; Oldenburg?. For whatever reason, of all of the massive amount of original literature I’ve methodically collected for ‘55 Buick’s, there seems to have been only a small timeframe of THIS option having been available for GM’ Buick division specifically, in 1955, as there’s only tiny bits of “Buick” even being mentioned in GM’s Guide Autronic Eye literature directly, for that year; and that info primarily refers to just mounting hardware part no. references. The semi-large foldout xerox copies of installation instructions John supplied with my unit, that includes Buick installation for 1955 (all were 12VDC by ‘55), sadly has water damage to the original this copy was made from. So far, I haven’t had any luck in sourcing another example of that info, anywhere online. This Autronic Eye unit I have, is still currently CAREFULLY packed away, waiting for the one of my Super’s it’ll be installed in, to be restored enough for it. Only thing I can figure, is of the extremely limited drivers’ side fender-well space available of Buicks’ from ‘54 - ‘56, that created major complications for dealer techs then, in getting these mounted properly. Edit: just checked and yes, his name is John Oldenburg.. extremely knowledgable person for just about everything Autronic Eye!!! Does amazing restoration work of these units!
Bravo! Your work is very impressive! Wow… really impressed that you fixed the output transformer. And to think that you did this work in 90 degree plus weather. The outdoor work bench was a nice touch, especially the heavy vise atop your Black and Decker Workmate. I appreciate your determination to bring the radio back to its’ former glory… well done!
Right. I just happen to have all these 'dangerous' products just laying around and the FIRST thing im going to do is grab it to make a voltage test. BBZZZZZZ! Yup, its good.
I remember duck and cover when I was a child in the 60's. My dad had a transistor radio in his work truck with the CD triangles on the dial. His work truck did not have a am radio in the dash. I miss what am radio used to be with music all over the band scan. Great info on conelrad. Thanks for sharing. 😂
Although I'm not old enough to have worked in the broadcast industry during conelrad, I saw the remnants of it. There was a switch at the transmitter which would engage several relays in the transmitter and at the antenna tower to retune to the conelrad frequency. The transmitter was switched on and off in sequence with other stations on the frequency by a signal from a telegraph circuit from a central control point.
Thank you for contributing that! You saw that much of the actual gear in situ still remaining when you got into the industry, and I can imagine some of the "old timers" told you all about how it was to work. They would have known when it was installed, who provided it, training and whether it was to be under wraps or not. I think the concept was inspired and the design, ingenious. Thanks again.
Thanks for the suggestion - I went back to the video to take a look. If you mean the new black power cord, it is located far from the rectifier socket. The lead from the switch that now goes to the rectifier is blue and is a solid wire and is bent away from the socket but all that is hard to see on the video due to 2D perspective - things may look closer than they are. Then I reopened the back to check that the speaker wires were not near any of the tubes and they are all clear. I am pretty sure I check those things, but a degree of complacency does cause mistakes. Thanks again for the comment for me to check it.
Thanks for watching and hope you found that detail interesting. Some things in plain sight that we see all the time and take for granted sometimes have some interesting backstories - such as town names on water towers.
Howdy! That's some good DX'n there. KTRH used to be a 50kW channel but not anymore, so that is a great pick! In HOU we like to point out to visitors that ELP is almost exactly halfway to L.A. "The sun has ris', an' tha sun has set, and here we is, in Texas yet"
couldn't resist this AA5 investigation and rescue. only watch Shango066 radioTVphonoNut iz good, just the system of watching these evaluations can be Similar. In-N-Out burger Randy's Donuts alongside Talc Ore is exceptional
I do recall a time when the civil defense system was tested. All the "normal" radio station transmissions went off the air and the CD radio transmissions came on. My research indicates that selected normal broadcast stations were equipped to broadcast on the 640 and 1240 frequencies. Radio dials in that era were not very accurate, so listeners would typically find the CD stations near the markings on the dial, but not exactly on. The triangle marking was probably more common than the letters CD. Zenith used and promoted their "hand crafted" assembly for many years after competitors had switched to printed circuit boards. We see that this chassis used point to point wiring. GE introduced its "mechanized chassis" in the early 1950s. Most of the component leads went into solder wells. Leads did not need to be fed through holes and looped around terminals. Probably the "mechanized chassis" was less error prone as well. Zenith did adopt the "mechanized chassis" later before introducing circuit boards sometime after that. You mention replacing the cord with one that has a polarized plug and moving the switch connection to the hot lead. Max Robinson makes the same suggestion on his funwithtubes dot net site. Placing the switch in the neutral lead was fairly standard practice. Very early "all american five" radios used tubes where the filament voltages did not add up to the line voltage and the extra resistance to build it out was provided in the line cord. So, the line cord had three wires, a hot low resistance lead, neutral low resistance lead and the build out resistor lead. The manufacturers would have had to use a two pole power switch or put the single pole in series with the neutral lead. They chose the less expensive single pole. I think that set a precedence and they continued that arrangement after a set of tubes building out the filament string to line voltage was developed. Early "all american five" radios had the metal chassis connected to circuit ground. The screws through the bottom of the cabinet posed a shock hazard, since they could be electrically hot. If a knob were missing, an electrically hot shaft could be exposed. Even if the knob were in place, it was possible to make electrical contact with the set screw with wet hands. Some people set up radios near the bathtub. We were taught not to do that because of the risk of electrical shock. Radios were common in kitchens and created the same hazard. Later designs isolated the chassis with a capacitor, as this Zenith does here. Later, plastic shafts were used for the knobs. The tuning capacitor was still electrically hot and could often be reached by fingers poked through ventilation holes in the back. Zenith tucked the tuning capacitor under the chassis in this model. I haven't found any data on how many people were electrocuted by these radios. Modern electronics is much safer and people aren't used to being extremely careful. I would suggest going further and replacing the polarized cord with a ground fault protector cord scavenged from a hair dryer. These cords are typically thicker than the original radio's cord and the cord's hole in the back of the chassis will probably need to be drilled out to accommodate a larger grommet and the cord.
Hello Jim and thank you for these interesting comments; very interesting that you recall an actual test of CONELRAD. I do not recall witnessing a test of that system, although as I mentioned we had the siren test every Friday at noon. Of course my Dad had explained it to me. Regarding the 'hot chassis' aspect of this, yes, I run into this on virtually all of my repairs and like to use polarized plugs going to the switch, if not a fuse, first as well as safety capacitors. You may have also noticed the screw receptacles in this chassis were nylon inserts as they were on the Star-Lite AM/FM repair I did some time ago. On that design, the mounting of the volume control was on an isolated floating plate and they also deep-set the controls if the knobs were pulled off. Of course, designers also used wooden or plastic cabinets and knobs - with notable exception as the EICO amp I fixed and those steel case Hallicrafters radios. Certainly agree about the relative safety of household items these days and perhaps a certain lack of respect for the danger in some of these older items. I did assist my Dad from a very early age on pulling tubes from the back of the TVs for the trip to the drug store tube tester, and learned all about draining the caps and especially the CRT capacitance - "entertains the kids" - right? I am sure you remember well before polarized plugs and wall outlets and getting a buzz off the screws on the bottom of many appliances, including radios. My Dad used to tell me to "just flip over the plug", as if, "everyone know that!" - in his generation of course, most guys did.
@@PracticallyFixed Thanks for the reply! I don't recall too much of the CONELRAD test, except that it was in the daytime and the radio dial went dead except for 640 and 1240. During the test, I vaguely recall that they talked about the system. I don't know if the test was national or just regional. It does seem that they would need to run regular tests to make sure that the CONELRAD system was in good working order. Many of the broadcast stations shut down at least one night a week. That would be a good time to test the system. Thanks for pointing out the nylon inserts. For proper operation, the chassis had to be grounded, at least through a capacitor. The capacitor could fail in a short circuit mode, creating a shock hazard. The shafts for the knobs appear to be metal. I assume that they were insulated from the chassis. The tuning capacitor is a special case. I never saw it electrically insulated from the AC line. My best friend's mother had a metal case AA5 radio in her kitchen. The dial cord had broken years ago. They changed the station by moving the plates of the tuning capacitor with pencils. Then his father bought her a new radio and this one got handed down to my friend. We took it apart and dumped out pencils and bread crumbs. We replaced the dial cord. When we had the radio serviced, his mother felt sorry that we hadn't done that years ago! We lived in the GE town of Schenectady, NY, and GE products were everywhere, many purchased by GE employees in the company store. My Dad bought a top of the line GE console in late 1954. It had a lot of duplicate tubes, and my Dad diagnosed tube problems by swapping tubes whenever there was a duplicate. Later, he bought a complete set of duplicate tubes and we swapped in new tubes to locate bad tubes. I watched him and helped him. By the time I was ready to leave for college, when the TV broke down, my Dad would ask me when I was going to repair the TV. With the switch in the neutral, the line connected chassis would switch from hot to cold or vice versa with a flip of the on/off switch. There was no safe way to insert the plug. I don't think anyone took a count of how many people got electrocuted by having a radio near the bath tub and making an electrical connection to bath tub ground by trying to change the station or adjust the volume control. On top of that, there probably were many more who got a shock but survived. Now we have battery powered radios that we can safely take into the shower.
The story on that metal cased radio your friend's family had is great, thinking of the pencils in there is really funny. Swapping tubes was a great way to go! In 1980 my wife and I bought a used RCA TV from a garage sale that didn't work. My Dad took me to a shop and bought be my first Sams Photofact for that set and we got it going - I wish I could remember how we fixed it. Although that set is long gone, I still have that Photofact folder, a great memory. Thanks for taking the time to watch the video and for commenting.
@@PracticallyFixed Regarding my comment on the switch being in series with the neutral lead instead of the hot, I do recall that Max Robinson thought it was done that way to eliminate one soldered connection in a highly cost reduced design. I got my first personal TV set in the early 1960s, a 17" Montgomery Ward portable with series string filaments. The owners bought it brand new but it broke down frequently. While under warranty, Montgomery Ward's had replaced all the tubes (except the CRT), but that didn't fix the problem. When I got the set, one tube had an open filament and locating and replacing that tube got the set working again. I didn't have to make a lot of repairs to the set, but there were a few. I do recall that my Dad and I took the set to a TV repairman and he found a broken connection in a tuner tube socket. The part that contacts a pin on a tube was broken off from the terminal. He didn't want to attempt a repair. I was able to pull out the little piece of metal, insert a piece scavenged from another tube socket and solder this terminal to the existing terminal. Another repair was needed when the vertical hold control would not stop the picture from rolling. I replaced a bad capacitor. The CRT eventually got very weak and my Dad and I replaced it. I think most of the hours on it were from the original owners. In those days, children's radios were not that common and having a TV set in your bedroom was really a luxury. I took the set to college and had it in my dorm room. The Batman program was extremely popular when it came out. The dorm lounges with TV sets were packed. I had a room full of students. However, the program lost popularity fairly quickly. With my best friend's mom's kitchen radio, she listened to one station pretty consistently, so it wasn't too often that pencils were used to change the station. I am surprised that family members didn't bend the plates in the tuning capacitor! It must have been hard to tune the station accurately.
Jim, thanks by the way for the steer to Max Robinson page; he has some interesting content and an entertaining writer to boot. I saw his comment on that solder lug and scratched my head a bit on that, until I recalled my biggest difficulty in moving the Hot lead to the on/off switch: all the commons tied to the switch terminal after the switch contacts. I usually have to add a terminal strip to move all those commons off the switch and give them a new hitching post. Perhaps that is related to his point. We definitely watched Batman, I mean Julie Newmar. I loved how the villain's hideouts were filmed at an angle to appear slanted, but no one ever commented on it. Cool show.
Love the bonus history lessons! Almost all my herd has the marks. Never seen that model before. Reminds me somewhat of the Zenith Caroline’s. Great video as always. Never thought to bring my radios to the park. Might have to do that some evening for some AM DX. That’s all I get up here stations.
Thanks! Yes getting away from power supplies, routers, lighting, motion detectors, etc really helps let the radio show what it can do. Let me know how the DXing goes.
Thanks for the history lessons. Dad explained the CONELRAD system to me when I was a kid. When we got a new car in '67, it didn't have the symbols on the radio, and I was really concerned about what we would do if there was a war. Dad assured me we would be OK (I was 8). Nice job on the radio - and go Rangers!
@@PracticallyFixed Hey, there's a lot of baseball left, and the 'Stros could make it up! BTW, I lived in Houston in 1964-'65, and attended the first game played in the Astrodome. It was an exhibition game against the Yankees. Mickey Mantle hit the first homer, but the Astros won.
@@jimf4492 That's cool. My parents were there in the Skyboxes for that game as well. One of the Astros announcers was a close family friend and we knew him and his family well and we went to a lot of games at both Colt .45 stadium as well as the Dome. I even went to bullfights there and saw Evel Knieval jump a bunch of cars there, Oilers games too etc. The dome has a lot of great memories for me. Even saw Pink Floyd there.
@@PracticallyFixed Well, we were in the cheap seats! I saw one other Astros game, and my granddad took us to watch the Oilers a couple of times. You have a neat connection with the place. I wish they would do something with it. I think it's too historic a place to tear down - or just sit unused.
Yes, I agree. In 2009 authorities changed the fire code so that the Dome no longer met code and so they stopped holding events there, even though it sheltered thousands of people during the Katrina evacuation a few years earlier. To my knowledge it hasn't been used since. It was a strong source of Houston pride for so long, I hope they can find a solution to keep it and use it.
The IF mounts did look different to me as well. Amazing condition really. Found it at a church thrift store. Must have been kept in the top of someone's closet. No bugs either!
Great video, very helpful. I am working on a model 20 now so it is great to learn and see how an expert does things. Thanks! Can’t wait to see what you do with the cabinet.
Timely video, I am working on a 20 with an intermittent power switch. I managed to take off one rivet and swing out the cover piece only so I can see inside. What cleaner do you think I should spray in there to try before dismantling?
Hello George. I would try CRC QD Contact Cleaner from the Auto Parts store first and maybe try a little scrubbing action with a pipe cleaner if it fits. I believe the culprit is dried, dirty grease on the contacts. Other contact cleaners, if you have them, such as MG Chemicals Contact Cleaner or NuTrol are good. Let it dry well as the contacts will arc at line voltage. The phenolic wafers absorbs that stuff and you want it to dry out as I believe it will break down phenolic over time if left in there. (WD40 is flammable and will ignite if there is arcing - saw it happen on a relay contactor.) If that doesn't work well enough, now that I have opened up that switch and put it back, I would do it again to do a thorough job. When opened up, the the QD on a swab does the trick with a little scraping to help. Now that I know what to do, it wouldn't take that long and the job will last a long time. If you lubricate the yoke to the middle of the dumbbell, I would suggest an extremely tiny amount (tiny: like the head of a pin) of dielectric grease (auto store) so it won't lead to shorting out. Let me know what you end up doing and how it works - we all want to know. Good luck on the 20! Thanks for the note and if this video helped give it a sub and thumb if you haven't already, it helps others to see it. Thanks again.
@@PracticallyFixed I have some deoxit D5 and Fader. Do you think one of those would work? After watching you put it together I’m worried about taking it apart haha.
Yes, I'm just a little skittish of residue; the contacts didn't corrode, they got packed with old gunk that got dirty and dried out. I understand why you would avoid the disassembly, especially the way I was whining (ha), but I was a little traumatized from the experience as I didn't know what to do - fun like a roller-coaster - gasp. But I knew that Philco had to be able to assemble them quickly during production, so I just needed to figure out "the trick". I have another Philco of this era I will restore eventually and it has this same switch. I will take it all the way apart as I did here just see how fast I can do it now I know the trick. Just don't let the spring launch parts into oblivion! Good luck and let me know how it turns out. (c'mon - go for it!! You want to...)
@@PracticallyFixed I sprayed the tiniest bit of deoxit in and used a very small swab. Could reach the closest tab easily and took off a ton of gunk. Bent the swab and got to the far tab and also pulled off a ton of gunk. Used a heat gun to lightly dry the phenolic. Testing shows perfect ops for now where it was very intermittent and mostly not working prior. I have a lot of other work to do before I need the switch so I’ll let it dry thoroughly. If it gives me any fits then I’m going for it. Thought this was worth trying anyway. (Chicken)
Hello. The SG165 sweeps frequencies and puts out a marker that shows on the scope for 10.7MHz, the IF frequency for FM, as well as 100kHz on either side. So 10.6, 10.7 and 10.8 MHz markers. I adjusted the two IF transformers away from both peaking at 10.7MHz, to having a peak closer to 10.6 and 10.8 respectively. That peak would be lower, however the bode magnitude plot on the scope would show a wider curve, not so sharp, such that they essentially ran together at the top creating the plateau appearance that spanned across 10.7 MHz. See 29:05 timestamp in the video. That gives a more evenly tuned bandwidth and thus I ended up with less distortion, allowing the Frequency to Modulate either side of 10.7MHz at a constant magnitude - rather than going through a peak. It is take a bit of patience and experimentation to get the right form, but the SG165 does a nice job helping. The person who previously worked on the radio aligned the FM the same way AM is aligned, which is to peak a maximum at the IF frequency which is ok for AM, but not really for FM - although it will work, but not sound as nice. I hope that I explained that ok. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Hello, I'm new to your channel and started with part 1 of this 2-part series and learned a lot and enjoyed watching even more. Great job of hanging in there on that 1st IF Transformer! I was pleasantly surprised to hear the Astros on the radio too. I'm in Spring, but was born and raised in Houston. I graduated Austin Sr High in '74. I worked in IT for 10 yrs at Schlumberger and 25 years at Baker Hughes. I'd like to make the acquaintance of people into tube radios. Do you know of a group or club in the area? I had a Zenith Y832 I picked up at a Goodwill store back in '72. I loved that radio! I'm looking for another one now and am putting a small work bench setup together to maintain it and my tube hifi system... I'll continue to follow along. Cheers - Luther
Hi Luther, and thanks. I am also a native Houstonian from near the Astrodome. Yes there is a club in Houston, Houston Vintage Radio Association - HVRA dot org. On their webpage check out the newsletter The Grid Leak for upcoming meetings and events. Yearly dues are $20 and you can join on site of one of their events. Sometimes at their auctions (you have to be a member, but can join before they start) you can score some radios, etc in various state of repair and not too pricey to learn on. If you are setting up a bench, take a look at the referenced videos in my show notes on bench safety. When you get into equipment with power transformers, the voltages are much higher than on these all American 5 radios. Glad you enjoyed this series, there are several more to choose from here, just visit my youtube page and check out Playlists. Don't forget to Comment and Thumbs Up, it helps out! Good luck!
You are welcome. I noticed the 2nd Quarter Grid Leak isn't posted on the site yet, but check back often as it should be coming out soon. Don't forget to chip in in the comments sections of these videos - it helps Thanks
I worked in engineering for a cellular telephone company and was involved in groundind and cathodic protection. Interesting discussion. Thanks for the video!
Yes, my 40 yr career included anodic protection of equipment. The comparison of the acid brush with just a week of exposure to a nearly 100 year old chassis coated with an anodic coating was too enticing to ignore. Thanks for the comment and glad you enjoyed it!
Hey PF, you're a better man than me, I would have have the patience needed to restore a radio like this to the degree you took it to. I sometimes give up before I even get the darn thing working! LOL Nice job for sure. :)
Atza lot of work there buddy😊 Chassis iz lookin good! Good look at that tuner section, didn’t realize there were so many parts involved. Lots of good stuff 👍
Thanks! Yep, the Rangers have been spanking the Astros this year so far! Painful start for Hunter Brown today in KC too. Let's see how the Rangers do in Hou this weekend... Thanks again for watching and the comment. (Go 'Stros! :) )
Might want to see if Radio Daze has that dial. CLR is very corrosive! Contact *Jim Burns* as to what to use on the chassis. Also labels. He's a master at that. I like the black on the xfmr.
Thanks. In this video you will see that I did indeed get a replacement dial from Radio Daze - take a look how it worked out. Yes, I know about CLR and I carefully washed and removed all of it. Yes, I know Jim and he was kind enough to drop in and said he likes the way the chassis looks. I think the transformer turned out especially nice - it was lucky I had a donor set for the cover that was missing.
Hey PF, super impressed with this one. It was a tedious job, but you were really creative in coming up with a solution for such a tight space. That snappy switching action was so satisfying at the end! Nice work!
I just found one someone threw out also. I suppose it's the same issue because the pilot works just won't stay on. I will try this and hope it works. Thanks for the video
Also, the in the video of the tall unit, link below, which was after this one, I spent more time on the switch disassembly, testing and cleaning if you need to check that out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dxy407D-x4g.html
Thanks Terry. I didn't see where anyone showed how to fix these so I thought I would show the detail plus the "figuring it out" part. I could probably do it pretty fast now, and have another project in the wings which has this switch so I may get to test that someday. Thanks again.
Hey PF. Very delicate operation for sure. I've repaired more modern switches in the past, but certainly nothing that complex. Congrats on a job well done. :)
Thanks Doug. Yes I thought it was pretty interesting, and I did not see anywhere online where anyone discussed its design or how to fix it - so I thought this might come in handy for someone someday. Thanks again.
Ha, thanks Jim. Having the restoration master watching me is making me a little nervous! I don't know where the patience came from - never had that before...
Well done to keep it as original as possible. Lots of patience! Maybe compress the spring and tie it with thread, then cut the thread when it's in place?
Thanks. Yes keeping that original switch will preserve the feel of using the radio and it is cool old technology I had not seen before. A string might work too but the needle also gave me a "handle" for positioning the parts. Thanks again.
Greetings, Great Vids! Did you happen to compile a list of Caps and Resistors that your changed out (and their ratings)? I was lucky enough to land the exact same model in a Grand (with Phono) that is in original top notch shape. Did not plug it in and I'm starting the process very slow. Want to stock up on some items I may need (even if I over spend a little). Thanks, Moxie
Thanks. The spool of RS solder ran out long ago, I just use the old spool for other purposes now. I even used it as a take up spool when I rewound the audio transformer for the Emerson a while back. I have a large spool of Kester solder I use now but it is a bit heavy and this little spool is more convenient; so I just refill it from time to time from the Kester supply spool. Thanks for watching and the comment. (It was good to catch up with your Dad a couple of days ago.)
Marvellous restore, ready for another 94 years. Next time someone opens it up and finds your note will hopefully if YT is still a thing can look back and hear the voices of not only the radio stations but the restorer also, how cool.
Got a great laugh when you said “does this mean I have to do this to the whole chassis?”. Was thinking the exact same thing. Great resto on the iron and good to see you back!
OH YEAH!🎉 Great work on that transformer. Good thing Philco decided to utilize that terminal board, makes for better connections to the rest of the components. 👍💪
When you say you can only listen to 8-track what do you mean - the radio doesn't work? Just thinking about the switches I discuss in this video... The schematics and service information for the radio in this video was bought from Sams Publishing using the radio part number. For example, the radio in this video was part number D8AF-19A188-AA. (However there were some revision differences in the radio I worked on here which Sams did not show related to the audio board.) The docs for the radio in this video does not cover your radio version - I checked. Sams (samswebsite.com) has an enormous set of service info, including schematics, instructions, circuit board layouts and photos, and has been around for about 80 years (US made radios-TVs post-WWII). On their website you can find the info and usually there is a download function. The info for this radio was about 20 pages of info, photos, schematics, etc. They do charge for it, but if they have it for your radio it is invaluable. Be aware of some cautions about that radio. I understand that it should always have speakers attached to each channel and not turned on without them. Also, the parts are known to be impossible to get and are failing due to age. See a useful video by Barry's 8-Track (Boz Fone) which I will link here where he discusses the issues with the radio you have. Since he put that video out, its now says he will "no longer touch it." ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RIuD4_O-NQ8.html Hope that helps some.
@PracticallyFixed thanks and yes only the 8 track works I did have am also but that quit working a week ago basically everything works except I can't get any reception if u hit scan the radio just keeps searching like there isn't a antenna and I checked with a known good antenna and also pulled apart radio and the socket and wiring look good
It sounds like the amplifier and tape preamp circuit works along with the drive mech - leaving a problem with the radio front end. If the antenna wiring is ok, and you have already been inside the unit, then I guess I would check the antenna connection traces on the board for a crack in the board or a cracked solder connection (age and vibration does that) from that point. If not that, it may have a dead chip it in it etc. like ol' Barry says. Good luck man.
Great video do by chance fix radios on the side i have a quadrasonic similar to this one but slides instead of knobs and i only get to listen to 8 tracks
I just wanted to thank you for your wisdom and entertaining videos of debugging and repairing radios , you are by far the Best I have come across on youtube . Your style and devotion to your trade shines through all your videos. I am just starting out learning how to build am and fm radio kits an more often than none they dont work well . I hope you be able to learn more and more from your channel. I like how you really take the time to show and explain every step you take as you debug your way through the circuits.
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