@evoluirsempre8164 I got mine from eBay. Try typing in turbo nozzle filter into Ebay. Alternatively, the Suttner ST33 is an excellent filter.

@YuriPeriotto low slip granules won't spray, personally I wouldn't be using anything like that as it will feel funny. No different then leaving sand scattered on it. I would put the customer off that idea. You'll need some xylene to clean the spray pack out after.

@chrisward3605 only if you make it high maintenance. Simply applying weedkiller every 6-8 weeks during spring and summer will help keep weeds at bay.

@littlekitty1468 sealing won't stop it getting dirty. Limestone is so porous that most sealers are impregnating sealers. Sealing limestone can help with deep rooted algae which is a common issue with this type of stone. Even after cleaning you can get left with a green staining on the stones. Most chemicals won't remove them as they are so deep in the stone. A long acting biocide like BAC50 can help but it's not gaurenteed.

@phsx2890 only if you have a steep driveway. If it's sanded properly and all the surface sand is blown off then you shouldn't loose any.

@brianherbert9608 I add a bleach safe surfactant into mine. Doesn't really do a great deal apart from show you where you've applied it. It cab help it stick on vertical surfaces but it's more to see coverage.

@jeanlaurensykes8232 hi, the problem with sealing is the dry time. Resiblock needs about 7 days after cleaning to dry out fully. I would normally sand and seal same day as that will ensure the sand is dry. You shouldn't need to weedkiller before sealing with resiblock providing you did a good enough job removing them when cleaning. If you did want to apply weedkiller then do it the following day after cleaning and allow to dry before sealing. The sealer will prevent moisture going through so will technically starve any weeds that happen to still be in the sub base anyway. Phill

@@enzorik you can if your machine is powerful enough. Unfortunately they struggle with the weeds.

@@swimgood3873 get a pump sprayer and some 360g/l glyphosate weedkiller such as gallup. Don't spray anywhere near plants or grass as it will kill them.

@@DirtyDriveAway nice 👌 You got any vids for re jointing patios , do you recommend Easy Joint? Thanks

@swimgood3873 no I don't do re jointing. Easy joint or any of those sweep in compounds are crap. They will all fail after a year or so and a jet wash will blown it out. Flowjoint or GFTK VDW is probably the best

@@DirtyDriveAway thanks

Nope, only drives with steep slopes tend to suffer from sand washout.

@@DirtyDriveAway how steep are we talking though ? sorry im fed up with weeds kinda got cowboys to do a drive & its shit

@graememcfee23 Any kind of incline where water will visibly run down. Weeds will always grow; it's the nature of block paving, unfortunately. Even freshly cleaned weeds will grow in a few weeks. A good weedkilling regime is the only way to stay on top of them or seal the driveway. Using a decent sealer will bind the sand, setting it hard. If you want the longest-lasting approach, then you need to use a Polyurethane sealer.

@@DirtyDriveAway how bout sharp sand & a cement mix ( sorry for being an arsehole lol 😀)

@graememcfee23 no, these driveways aren't designed to have cemented joints. Besides cement will make a hell of a mess if being swept in, sharp sand is usually wet and just won't sweep well. You will regret it if you try.

It can smell a bit like a swimming pool for a day or 2 but nothing too bad or unpleasant.

Poly sand sets hard but as a top up it doesn't last long. It tends to crack too easily, it's best used as full depth but you won't get that with a clean. It really needs to be used when laid so you get the full 50mm depth. When cleaning it's only around 5mm depth so doesn't actually bind much sand.

In honesty, I don't think the new external unloader will work properly. Even if set to max pressure on the pump, the internal unloader may still want to bypass. The two unloaders will then counteract each other. I mean, it may work, but there could be a chance that the max setting on the unloader is the max the pump will run at, therefore the pump unloader will take priority. By blocking off the pump unloader, you effectively ensure that the external one works all the time. I've been running mine like the video all season, and it works great. You could try your way before committing and test it, although I fear you may end up with issues down the line.

Wow thanks for the quick reply. One other question if I do take out all that stuff the original pump has an easy start valve in their will that still work. I'm getting old lol and it's getting hard to pull start that big engine.

@mikef124 easy start isn't really needed with a flow sensitive unloader as there is no pressure in the hose. It's the pressure in the line that makes starting a pig. That's why if you don't have an easy start valve you have to pull the trigger to release the pressure when you pull start it. Seeing as the flow sensitive unloader removes all the pressure from the system it makes starting a breeze. Saying that the unloader you have chosen VRT310 Isnt flow sensitive. Your not really going to gain much by fitting that unloader hence why I recommend the K1. When using flow sensitive it makes starting easier and the hose is no longer rigid when you let off the trigger. You also don't get that nasty kick back when you squeeze the trigger.

Well sir, I took all the parts out that you had in your video had a heck of a time getting the orifice out, my parts were a little different than that model that you have their but I finally got it all back together and it works great the bypass was my main thing why I did this. Sometimes I walk away from the pressure washer while it's running and worry about the pump getting too hot. So thank you for this video is the best one out there on how to bypass the original unloader😊

@mikef124 glad it worked, yes so long as the water is dumping out you can leave the machine running as long as you want. If in the future you want to make your life easier, fit a K1. The difference in handling the hose is night and day.

If the edge blocks are cemented in, then sand is purely cosmetic. The sand is typically used to stabilise the blocks and help prevent unwanted movement. Since edge blocks shouldn't move the sand isn't really needed. Maybe using something like polymeric sand on these edge blocks would save it coming out and prevent weed growth.

No its a golden brown. I've never seen white kiln dried sand. Closest you will get is using something like grano dust (crushed granite) kiln dried sand I've only ever seen in different shaded of brown. To be honest it will look dirty within a few weeks anyway.

​@@DirtyDriveAwayThanks fir your reply.

I mean technically yes. The flow rate on the karcher k7 is around 9-10 litres a min. The charts don't list what size you would need but I would say something around a size 035 may work OK. You would be better suited to trying one of the cheaper brands available on ebay. Both these versions are over £40 each now. Gone are the days when they used to be available for £27.

Ok thanks for replying will check them out.

Your local refuse centre should have an area for empty paint cans.

Take them to your local recycling/refuse centre. They usually have a section for paint cans.

Nothing stops them coming back. Regular spraying with weedkiller will help. This needs to he done every 6-8 weeks. You could apply a sealer but doing that properly is really expensive.

@@DirtyDriveAway Cheers for that reply ,apologies for what I thought was a stupid question that I asked.

@MrEchoes1962 don't worry, I've had worse lol 😆. Weedkiller is your friend but it needs to he done regularly. After cleaning, when you put the fresh sand in, give it a good hit of 360g/l glyphosate (gallup) weedkiller. Don't get it near your plants or lawn as it kills anything green. It will help keep the weeds under control if you do it every 6-8weeks.

I use a 12v battery sprayer. The trigger has viton seals, the pump has viton check valves and they last about 12 months. Even viton seals won't last forever with strong hypo.

Thanks mate appreciate it

Weedkiller after the sand, it soaks into it then. Weedkilling is not a 1 time deal, it has to be done every 6-8 weeks during spring/summer.

I leave it overnight before sanding. Sealers aren't essential m, it's personal choice. Like you say they are expensive especially to do it properly.

Thank you for replying. Despite googling, i can't find an answer. One more quick question: For 80sq M, (5mm deep) how many 20kg bags of sand would I need, roughly,? I even asked a guy in Travis perkins and even he didn't know!!!. Any idea, please?

@hasnaintejani9307 depends on the block style. Conventional 100x200 blocks you would be safe with 4. Providing the joint gaps aren't too wide. If they are tegula (more square with rounded edges) you may need 5. I normally base it on 20sqM per 20kg bag. That's plays it safe.

@@DirtyDriveAway thank you

Not much sand after cleaning. Maybe 3, sealer was about 60L.

I don't do it anymore, too mich headache with the weather etc. Also it's wicked expensive to do properly now. Materials are at an all time high and customers rarely want it. It can easily increase the cost by 3-4x by sealing. Also most sealers only last about 12months cosmetically and the sand won't be very future pressure washer proof unless you use polyurethane, which is more money.

@DirtyDriveAway thank you for your reply. So is it OK just to sand?. What about weeds, bugs etc without sealing

@hasnaintejani9307 weeds will grow so using a good weedkiller every 6-8weeks will keep them down. Can't help bugs etc they will bore through anything. You can seal if you want but if it gets wet after application it's done for.

Sodium hypochlorite is the chem of choice.

Try resiblock.

To be honest I've tried many products on oil stains. The problem is the longer they are left the deeper they soak in. If you can catch them fairly quickly you can usually shift them with an oil remover. Anymore than a few weeks old and they are typically there to stay. You can remove the dark stain but you'll nearly always be left with a ghosting.

None of them will to he honest. I use a sherpa deluxe but the pumps only last about 12months. Even viton seals don't last forever with hypo.

@@DirtyDriveAway thanks I will look into Sherpa. I did some searching and found the Goizper IK-12 Multi - Industrial Pressure Sprayer, which claims to be compatible with hypo even at full strength !

@markkinnon4866 I used the IK9 for a while, held up well but even then the trigger seals failed after about 2 hrs and the delivery hose starts to go stiff. If you rinse them well they will last as its usually the residue hypo salt that knackers them.

Hmm, I mean technically most gardeners would say have a dedicated pack. Since I don't spray weedkiller as you have to be licensed to spray for business use I only ever use it for hypo. Once rinsed I would say you could use it for different things but hypo will kill the std pump pretty quickly.

Yes, if you don't it will turn back to a salt and leave a powdery residue

Because setting sand is only really worth it on full depth. Using it on the the odd patch is pointless and using it to top off sand joints is also pointless. It's not pressure washer proof and crack under vehicle weight.

Good luck 👍

Make sure the chemical is fresh or it won't work as well.

How do I know the chemical is fresh?

@albamcconnell depends where you buy it. If its from a proper seller it should be fairly fresh. I get mine direct from the bottler so I know its always good. A sniff test should give a good indication. It should smell of a strong swimming pool, like enough to make your eyes water. If it has barely any smell then it's probably stale. Obviously don't sniff it too hard, you should even be able to shake the bottle and smell the cap rather than sticking your nose into the drum.

Glad my video helped. Obviously not the best scenario but our weather is too unpredictable.

Well, proper weedkiller such as glyphosate (gallup) works well. As a professional, you must hold a licence to spray it as a business. Technically, as a homeowner, you can buy it, although you're not supposed to have it, if that makes sense. As with any weedkiller, it needs to be applied every 4-6 weeks to keep on top of them.

Dude this video is 7yrs old. Application methods are so much easier now with dedicated tools.

Didn't realise it was 7 years old. And was just trying 2 help. Just like u was posting this video. Keep up the good work

@seanoverend7297 ha, ha yeah as time goes on methods get easier. Yes a watering can would work but as a professional pressure washer I use an xjet for anything less than 2:1 mix. Anything stronger needs the pack sprayer.

Not really, most sandstone sealers are impregnating sealers. It can help stop them digging too deep but in honesty sealers dont last long. A mild biocide wash every year is the best option to keep them at bay.

It's more the fact that the gloss sealer will wear quicker in areas of traffic. So you will see vehicle wear in areas where cars are parked etc. The resiblock sealer is the best sealer but its expensive. Downside is you can't spray it, you have to roller it. You need to make sure your sanding jib is perfect or the roller will pick up the sand and leave it scattered and stuck to the blocks. Once it's cured it won't come off that easily.