Hi, I'm Jeremy. I build mediocre cars with LS swaps, trucks with turbos, do LOTS of automotive wiring, and everything in between. I also love teaching general automotive topics whenever possible. Subscribe to my RU-vid channel, and follow me on instagram. To see my project car builds - check out my "Project Car Rescue" (@projectcarrescue) channel as well.
Very informative. Can you suggest LED lights & incandescent lights together & how to go about this. Reason l have both that are positioned at rear of Dodge AT4 Ute. Worx in progress. BTW we're in OZ Having difficulty finding the right combination. Please help when convenient. Cheers 👋
I have a question. I had to replace window switches in my car. The driver side can also control the passenger side window. Since I used some cheap universal switches (1 power, 2 ground, up and down pins) I can't make it so that both switches could operate the passenger side window, as the driver side switch does nothing and the passenger side only produces motor noises. The switches do work when not connected together though. Can that also be fixed by using relays? If so how would the wiring look like? Do note, I have also tried using diodes as I thought that was a problem, but when I tested this out on just the driver side driver window switch the contact that did not have the diode (say window up) that button did nothing, as if the diode that was on window down pin was preventing it from making a whole circuit.
You are right sbout the EZ Outs. If the threads are bound up, it's a no-go. If the head broke off in an accident or because of fatigue, you have a chance. And if you break an EZ Out, only a carbide bit (if any) has a chance of drilling it out. With a steel bolt in an aluminum head, there is a 90% chance the threads are bound up.
should the thermostat on the intake and the thermostat for the electric fan be the same ? im guessing if running a intakte thermostat at 160 degree the fan thermostat should be 180 degree.
thank you very much. My radar detector did not work in sudden, i thought RJ11 wire cable was too old (10 years setup, using on my 3rd car now). so I bought the entire hardwire kit from Amazon. My old hardwire setup: 7.5AMP bladefuses with fuse adapter + Glass Fuse 1 Amp 250v. Before I change to new hardwire kit, I realized that old table burned my Glass Fuse 1 Amp 250v. So I replaced the glass fuse 1amp (new from new hardwire kit - there are extra in my new hardwire kit), radar detector work again, it only work again like few mins, but new Glass Fuse 1 Amp 250v burned out again. I don't know why?????????? Now I changed the whole setup to new hardwire kit. its 3 AMP bladefuses with Fuse adapter + 1 Glass Fuse 1 Amp 250v (same fuse but new) . It looks fine, but I'm not sure why my old hardwire kit burned out two * Glass fuse 1AMP (first glass fuse used for 10 years), and second glass fuse (new - only use for 2 mins) Do you know what is the problem? Do you have any idea? please thank you! BTW thank you for your information, I have learned about gauge + watt + AMP thing, that is really helpful and great example idea. I wish u 100k sub soon. ** The power is coming from accessory empty spot in car fuse box** **Fuse adapter i only put 1 bladefuse on top one** Since that is empty fuse spot, so i did not put 2 bladefuse on fuse adapter. my new wire kit: 13FT RJ11 Style Radar Detector Hardwire Kit,Quick Connection Plug and Play Cord Cable Set (i don't want to share amazon link and affect your channel)
Thanks for the great tip. I don’t have a race car/truck but I had to break my ignition switch due to I lost my key. No parts store or dealership has my part. I have an 85 Isuzu pup and looking for a way to redo my whole ignition system. This is a great way thank you. But I noticed that the system your using states for racing only?? But can you use it for just an everyday driving car?? What is the difference if there is any?? Thanks?? Again thank you for this great video, easy instructions and tutorial on how to wire one of these and also the relay.
question time, could i just pull the wires form the cars existing ignition and wire them up to a switch? sense the car already has all the fuses and relays in place?
Thanks for the video it helped a lot. But I do have a little issue. When on the low speed, it goes a little lit slow, a little bit fast, and so on. All the other functions work fine. what could be the problem? thanks
I actually made a whole video to answer this question. Here you go! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EhzN6UdnmPA.htmlsi=8Z_1mpQzvvrv61Hg
What would cause this to rapid click? My car runs great and will rev then clicking starts and it stalls since it goes to fuel pump. But it randomly starts and stops clicking. Once it stops. Rev to the moon
I have heard had a dying ecu can cause that. But also Check the ground that is located right next to this mpi relay, along with the main power wires on the battery. If any of those are loose or dirty, it could cause the relay to freak out.
It depends. Check out this video that I made that explains when you need relays. I think it will help you decide. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QCkfFCLa_Jg.htmlsi=qFr8e4Ondt_0Gcdm
What about the PDC COOLING FAN RELAY ? Keep it stock and add additional relay as shown in your video ? Or is there the danger of sending too many amps, thus burning out the fan motor with two relays inline to cooling fan ?
I been stuck in a shit mood due to the dreadful 5.4 manifold all day and you taking the broken stud out with the turbo was a great laugh I needed right now. Thank you!
It sounds like you should determine how much amperage your fuel pump is drawing and size the relay appropriately based on that. Usually fuel pump manufacturers will tell you how much amperage draw they have at different pressures. Your relay is likely too small.
The 1st symptom of a sticking caliper is the vehicle pulls to that side. The next thing is that brake fades and the vehicle pulls to the other side because the other side is the only one working. Another possibility is that the rubber brake line is delaminating on the inside and not letting the fluid return to the master cylinder. If your vehicle is pretty old and you're doing a brake job just replace the rubber lines and save the headaches and frustration later on. I've done this repair on two vehicles and it solved the caliper sticking issues. I replaced 3 or 4 calipers on my old van before I figured it out. AutoZone was very accommodating with the lifetime warranty. Talk about feeling dumb.. I'm getting ready to do the front brakes on my k1500 and am replacing the rubber lines as a precaution.