I'm so glad the Closet Historian is getting recognition - her patterning series is amazing! Great idea for a dress, I'd been wondering about those heavy backed skirts - thanks!
what helps a lot with heavy backes skirts is wearing makeing the waistband very snug so they do not havve the room to pull down. Wearing them over corset helps a lot with allowing a very snug waistband without the discomfort of it cutting in and the weight of the skirt in general gets way better distributed, even without an adition bumpad or roll.
I feel like The Closet Historians channel is criminally underrated. Love the jumper. I wear long skirts and have been trying to over come my hesitancy to make a fan tail, its just so much fabric.
Mine wasn't too much. The jumper fit into 2 yards and I had pretty large chunks leftover. But I did shorten the floor-length pattern by several inches, and narrow in the fan to fit across my fabric.
I made a full length fan tail out of 2 1/4 metres, with a few piecings on the larger pieces, so it's definitely possible! Although I did have to shorten the pattern by 7 inches as I am incredibly short, so maybe that would account for the lack of fabric used?
@@sew_so I was going to use a commercial pattern I bought and adjust that back pleat to whatever fabric I have. I am both tall (5'9) and have high waist with long legs (I'm not exactly skinny right now either) and cutting my precious wool is scary if it doesn't work out.
in cases like that, my solution is not a mockup, but a prototype. Something out of a cheaper fabric, but wearable. Mockups never really give me a good idea of how the final garment is going to look.
"Bernadette's method with a few modern cut corners" is my go-to 😂 I love this, it turned out so beautiful! Coincidentally, I just finished a very similar piece a few weeks ago, and I loved seeing all the ways you styled yours. Yay for applicability haha
My pocket anxiety stems from the knowledge that I am always picking up too many pretty rocks and one day it will be too much for my flimsy modern pockets.
I think that maybe my favorite thing about your channel is that you're coming at this from a fairly rural perspective. It's really nice to see my own experiences reflected, like the whole "everyone has a relative who does woodworking" thing.
I ;have learned so much from the Closet Historian. I also find that Lifting Pins and Needles has a lot of good fitting information. I follow both as well as you.
The jumper dress is beautiful. I like how you had listed "liberating the chickens" as your first chore to do. It gave me a laugh. They have grown so much this year.
Yes Laura Ingalls pocket disaster reference! That little drawing of Laura in TEARS and her mom saying, Calm yourself my daughter, I can fix it! ❤️❤️❤️ Why this imprinted on my memory, I do not know. But it did.
I did pattern making in fashion school and one detail that i love is shoulder darts and pretty everyone on the internet doesn't like then that much 😅 It's a such a nice detail and not a lot of people use it now a days 🤗
I wonder if it's a body shape preference thing? I've got really narrow shoulders and a relatively wide bust and once I get a functional bodice block that's not princess seamed, I want to play with darts and see what works best on my "brick with boobs" figure. My initial explorations suggest that I definitely don't work well with a waist dart, since I don't have a lot of difference between my waist measurement and my underbust measurement.
@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 yeah, it could be that! I was taught the french drafting method and usually what we learn with the shoulder darts is to rotate it somewhere else 😂 But is still so pretty and very tailor-like in my opinion 😊
@@martamoreira6326 Haha, I didn't even know it was a thing till I saw The ClosetHistorian and her dart wizardry, I've got a couple of medieval-style gore-and-rectangle dressses that fit so much better if pinch out a fold in the neckline and safety pin it!!
I love when youtubers I love refrence each other. "pitch meetings" is infinitly quotable and it tickles me when I hear someone else dropping their quotes around. Hehehe
Wow I can't believe you don't like your hips in that skirt I think it looks beautiful. It's amazing how we see ourselves. And others see ourselves differently. I thought it was a beautiful silhouette.
Was nice to watch how you do things. TCH is a very seriously underrated vloger. I'd have finished all seams even if inside and covered by the lining because good ole Murphy loves to play my existence.
I've heard somewhere that most commercial patterns go with a B cup, regardless of the pattern size, but in reality you can't know what cup size was used in drafting unless it's stated somewhere. LBA and SBA are lifesavers. The CoSy video from DixieDIY was an eye-opener for me. Why did you have to remind me how weak I am for plaid fabric? Your dress is so beautiful that my fingers are just itching to do something like this. And the V-neck is indeed very flattering. Well done!
That is true, but cups in patternmaking also aren't the same as cups with bras, because they're measuring the difference between the bust and overbust, rather than bust and underbust. So it gets complicated.
It's also not true of pre-1920s patterns, which operate on whatever proportion was fashionable, with the expectation that you would nip yourself in and fill yourself out, as needed.
@@habituscraeftig This! I am a C cup in patterndrafting (overbust 30, bust 33 ish) but I wear a 28DD or E (UK sizing) bra, as my underbust is 27 inches. However, lots of brands use the +4 method in their sizecharts (and there only, as the fit of the bras doesn't reflect it; 32 and 30 bands are consistently too big for me) so it becomes 30C-D 32B-C again. Some brabrands also use overbust, which doesn't make sense whatsoever. All very confusing and I wish more people knew the difference.
I have learned SO much from theclosethistorian. I support her on patreon because shes changed my self drafting game. I KNOW that feeling of "i could have cut this piece better" feeling but still loving it and wearing it. Its the sewing journey. Love your videos!
My mother learned to iron with a removable-handle symmetrical iron like your pattern weights. She became the Ironing Champion of Minnesota, 1951. Yes, really.
Looks lovely,I want to make my own version now. The Closet Historian is amazing, I always use her as my go-to channel for pattern drafting etc but she also makes beautiful clothes and costumes.
I love The Closet Historian! Bianca's videos were such a game changer for me in terms of making clothes that actually fit me properly. This Is Kacchi (I definitely spelt that wrong) also has some really good videos on how to draft your own patterns, but I just used hers for pants since TCH already had me covered for everything else I wanted.
I would recommend a nice quality rayon lining rather than silk or poly. Rayon is a synthetic, technically, but it's made from cellulose, which is what cotton and linen are made of, and it breathes very nicely. Modern rayons also wash well, though that's not so much an issue with a wool skirt. You can also get nice quality cotton sateen or lawn that are smooth enough to play well with tights, but they're usually so expensive that you might as well go with silk. (Edited to add) I would also recommend getting comfortable with regular zippers; the railroad insertion is fast and easy, and a regular zipper will stand up to wear much better, especially with thick fabrics like this wool. I never use invisible zips anymore because they break too often. (/end edit) I really like your jumper, and I think making the fan skirt into a jumper to fix the waist dragging is very clever!
I wanted to make a winter jumper dress for a while and your video really inspired me! The dress turned out so cute! I love your content. PS : the ''super easy, barely an inconvenience'' - Ryan George reference made my day 🤣
I love your iron pattern weights. I have a treadle machine, but don’t know how to oil it. Would love a video on it. My Grandmother taught me how to sew on a treadle many decades ago.
I love your jumper. I was amazed at The Closet Historian's block bodice magic too! It is a really helpful patterning tool. I'm glad you didn't cut your hair...at first I thought you did...
This jumper is so cute. You can't go wrong with Bernadette or the CH as inspiration. Thanks for heads up about the block pattern, I have been considering getting one online.
i'm so glad i found your channel because of the production value of the videos, the unique and creative sewing projects and your way of talking about stuff... you're one of my comfort youtubers and i'm happy everytime i get a notification from you!
good job, thanks for sharing this adventure. For pressing thick areas, I glued a well sanded thick piece of wood to the base of a cast iron pressing iron, the kind you use as pattern weights, as I find this easier for me to apply pressure using the handle than using a piece of wood (clapper) alone. This multi function iron is one of my most used sewing items, along with having extra seam rippers at hand.
seeing that you watch some of the youtubers i watch (bernadette banner and the closet historian) is so cool to me!! community like this seems to have gotten rarer and rarer and i'm glad we still have it :)
When Cathy Hay pointed out that her Victorian walking skirt was drooping in the back because of all the weight - then Bernadette mentioned it in one of her videos shortly after - it was enough for me to alter my own walking skift pattern to be shorter (tea length) and have far less pleating in the back. It's down to 4-ish pleats from the previous 8. The cotton is lightweight enough, I think, not to pull, but I definitely have enough fabric left over to make a small bum-roll if need be.
I love how your jumper dress turned out! You can get rayon challis fabric for fairly cheap. It’s thin, slippery and breathable so I actually prefer it over any other fabric for unstructured linings. And, as an added bonus, it’s really soft! It is really fiddly to work with, though, but I think it’s worth the effort.
such a nice looking dress that's perfect for your needs and so versatile! Will be taking lots of your notes to make my own! I'm happy I don't have such a heavy suiting wool to work with, but now know I need some more fabric for lining and facings. Thank you!
When I was in fashion school, we were taught to mark the actual apex when the mockup was on our bodies (after adjustments). It's a little easier than math-ing it.
See this invisible zipper installation makes so much more sense. I tried to be clever and got very confused about sandwiching of the lining and outer fabric with the zipper. So agreed basting is a must
This was such a fantastic video! I am kinda blow away by the double dart technique (my modern sewing knowledge is basically nothing) and this video totally made something like this feel do-able! Thank you!
I have found that for my historically inspired sewing, learning modern sewing methods has been invaluable. Victorian tailoring techniques aren't suitable for my victorian-esque clothing lol. And the Closet Historian is bomb!
My solution to bulk in pockets attached to the waist has been to cut out the corner, you still get some bulk in the waistband, but generally the main problem is all the seam allowances at the top of the side seam, which it solves
I really loved this piece! The jumper style and color are so versatile, especially with the red jacket. I enjoyed seeing your applications of other RU-vidrs' work. If the opportunity arises, could you do a video on alterations? I learned so much from seeing and explaining how you made adjustments to the waistline. Thank you!
When it comes to lining wool and wool-like skirts and dresses, I like to use polyester curtains or yardage from the thrift store. Then I don't have to worry about it catching on my tights and I can feel good about giving a second life to some unfortunate polyester.
I made a coat (based on Sewstine's Kefta pattern from Mood) with a knitted wool blend lined with flannel (interlined with cotton twill Ikea curtain and pure woven wool salvaged from a horse blanket) and though I am now am convinced I have a fitting princess seam bodice block (mwahahaaha, I am invincible!!!), I left the lining separate from the outer at the bottom in case I want to change anything and was having the same problem, even though they were cut the same size (actually I'm pretty sure I cut the flannel an inch shorter), I hemmed the wool by folding it over half an inch, and I took as much as two inches up out of the flannel to make sure it's not seen from the outside... I also topstitched everything as the the outer coating was really thick and would have hid my stitches even if my thread hadn't been close to matching... and the lining keeps bagging out the front so I'm doing some decorative stitching to hold it in place (think using chain stitch embroidery as a cross between quilting and pad stitching?). I love your pinafore idea and am thinking of making something like that out of some plaid "100% unknown fibres" that smelled a lot like burning wool when I did a burn test. Too bad the V bodice didn't work, I love that shape because it hides a multitude of bodily irregularities. I need to go look at how they made my wedding dress, it got it right!
Thank you. I am still working on my bodice block but you are right about how folks who have been to fashion school understand that and the rest of us muddle for a good while before we get there. I think making this a dress is a great idea. I am curious if you might could keep it in 2 peices with hook and eye attachments.
Before you cut off that v-shapped waistline I was thinking that buttons to pretend it was a vest would make it perfect. But it is your dress and looks great this way too 🤩. As it was so easy to make it better for you great. Now I want to see Ryan George sewing (figure out why🙄).
enjoyed your breakdown on the making and your thoughts. i'm glad you addressed the breast dart issue. i couldn't place why the bust just didn't seem to fit you right.
Aah this turned out so cute! It's such a joy seeing you fall in love with block patterning too, since I've been obsessed with it for ages lol. Bianca's channel is just so good, too. Thanks for sharing! You've gotten me all fired up to sew. 😄
