Having just carried out this job I would offer the following advice. You do not have to remove the oxygen sensor or the pipe work to the left, the heat cover can be pulled to the side along the sensor cable. The pipe work disconnected and again pulled to the side. The hardest part of this job by far was removing the oil return pipe, the hex screw at the bottom is inaccessible if you have the pipe cover as it pushed the tool away from the screw. Far simpler, is to remove the clip from the pipe cover, slide it up and out the way, use a long screwdriver to tap the rubber pipe down. if it doesn’t disconnect then give the turbo a good yank and the metal pipe will come out of the rubber pipe. You can replace by pushing metal pipe into rubber and use a Jubilee clip to retain. One more thing make sure all eight bolts are in place before you tighten any, you need that play to enable you to locate all of them.
What a brilliant tutorial with step by step instructions. I have a 2016 CMax with this engine . The eco boost engine has a bad reputation for terminal problems; I am (hopefully ) not sure that this is justified. Certainly it runs v hot and I think some of the earlier versions had problems with plastic coolant pipes failing . Also, there are reports of fragments of the timing belt causing an oil pick up problem . Maybe this only happens when the oil is not changed on time. The way I see it - regular oil changes, with of course the correct grade of oil, and keeping an eye on the coolant level should do it.
Thanks to this video, I've now been able to confirm my actuator is not holding vacuum, luckily I stumbled into this video as nobody else seems to explain much on the vacuum system
One of the best videos that i have ever seen on you tube. The picture was so clear and your explanation was very easy to follow. I will be doing this job next week.
Many thanks, I'm glad I found this. I have a 2012 1 litre Focus Ecoboost with only 30K miles It has a small OEM electric pump fitted which apparently (according to Ford owners club) is supposed to ensure the turbo is cooled after the engine is stopped. I had an accident which smashed the pump (and other things). The accident as about a mile from home and I carefully drove it back and stopped the engine. It did not appear to have overheated. There was a small amount of coolant loss from the damaged pump but most of it stayed in the system. I replaced all the damaged parts, fresh coolant, new oil and filter and the car was then MOT tested. Initially, I had one day when there appeared to be condensation from the exhaust pipe and a slight misfire which went away.. Now I notice there has been a small loss of coolant noticeable in the expansion tank and if the expansion cap is released (with engine running) it smells like exhaust fumes. My first thought was headgasket due to overheating but then I wondered (maybe too hopefully) if the turbo seals could leaking (due to the pump failing after the accident) and allowing exhaust gas into the coolant system (and leaking coolant into the air intake? There is no noticeable water in the oil but maybe a small amount of dark scum in the coolant tank. The turbo cooling pump seems to run all the time the engine is running and I'm not sure if this is correct? Have you heard of a turbo seal causing such symptoms? Thanks again.
Very interesting video. Thank you for it. A refitting video would be helpful. It would be nice to know which gaskets or bolds or copper fittings should be replaced.
Brilliant video Not a job Iam ever going to do,bit as the owner of a fiesta with this engine (108'000miles and runs sweet as a nut) it's good to understand how it works and what does what,when. I have always let mine warm up before thrashing it and let it idle for 20 seconds before turning it off.
I think this will help me with my b-max turbo. Tyanks a lot but YES PLEASE I'd like to see the rebuild. I was lost a bit around all the hoses serving the solenoid and how much coolant was lost in the strip. Does that mean a lot of bleeding on rebuild?
I have just replaced a turbo on a Ford C-Max 1.0. Its a pig of a job. What is not mentioned here in the video is the difficulty disconnecting the electrical connector for the oxygen sensor. The connector is at the back of the engine and very difficult to see meaning its hard to identify the trigger or clip you have to push to release the connector. You need a mirror with a light to first identity the trigger/clip/lever whatever you want to call it and then reach round with you hand or hands to release it.
I have Ring Land Failure on this engine and Mechanic is telling me it is the turbo! I cannot see how the Turbo caused Ring Land Failure, Any of you inputs will help. Great Vid by the Way
Great vid,for your information I have a 62plate focus 1ltr eco boost that is down on power giving a turbo non boost fault code and I have found a broken one way valve on the brake vacuum pump that supplies vacuum to boost control solenoid.Waiting for a valve off eBay,Ford only sell it on a pump.No movement on actuator but it may be seized.
Hi there, I need bit of advice. I have got the same car 2013 model. Car is in limp mode. When you Rav the car, it only goes to 1000 rpm. Car has no power and would not move but if I unplugged the vacuum line going to actuator carcar drives fine and RPM works. It just doesn’t have boost and won’t go over 60 to 70 mph. any idea what’s causing it? And can you please point me in the right direction?
Thanks for take the time and effort to do this. I have a Garage,and it's cristal clear explanation.👏👏 Applicable to all this kind of mechanical operated turbos. Great Job.. Keep it up .🤺 Time ago i have to repare the cylinder head on this engine FUNNY AND P.I.T.A work 🤣 Greetings ✌️
Very helpful video. See the Catch Can, where it connects to the Turbo, I have a slight leak from the gasket there. Any ideas how that would be, car is a 2018 and only done 23k miles.
Hi my partners car has zero boost! On idle you can here the waste gate working. I've tested vacuum to the wastegate also and that seems spot on, it has a rattle when reving and then you hear it when you let off my thoughts are either the hot side has failed, penny valve rattling so not holding boost or I've read that the main vacuum pump can be at fault but i would of thought if that was at fault then the waste gate wouldn't work ?
Hi I have a question. I have exactly the same turbo charger but there is a coolant leak on the back of it where are located this small caps. My question is can I buy them separately.
Hi at 22.30 you test the pipe that goes to the inlet manifold and it holds vacuum, mine does not hold vacuum but i cannot understand you yours did because the pipe your connecting to goes straight to the inlet manifold, which would leak are in from the throttle bottle and valves plus its a large chamber that if it was sealed would take many pumps to get all the air out. Can you advise on this a bit more so i understand? Thanks Matt.
How I wish you were were anywhere around southern Africa....my 1.0 fiesta ecoboost is struggling reaching the power it used to have. You push harder on throttle, it jerks😭😭
good job. your videos have been very helpful to me. I have a ford focus mk3 and the drl on the left when the short light comes on often goes out. can you help me with this problem?
Thank You very much. I have the fault p0299 turbocharger/ low boost presure. The Ventil is new. (Underpresure) The Valve is new (turbosmart dual port) The Vacum Pump is new. Do you have an Idea? Its an focus mk3 2018 1.0l 140hp
Seen you do a few videos on this motor. Whats your thoughts on owning one?? I love fiestas and thinking about replacing my now totalled 1.6 fiesta with fiesta 1.0 this time. The 1.6 was dumb reliable and got great mpg soo not sure if the 1.0 is worth the risk
Thank you very much for this unique video man, you're a savior!:D I have one question, if you will...: What is that small hose between the vacuum solenoid and the exhaust camshaft's port side venturi for? I have mistakenly broke the plastic nipple under the clamp of the 3rd small length hose that connects between the vacuum solenoid that you talked about in the last part of the video to the exhaust cam shaft end. I then proceeded to unscrew that plastic cap that is held by a single small torx bolt (which holds the broken nipple), just to find a real mess inside what seems to be a venturi tube partly filled with oil from the camshaft. To me, it was a mess inside because after I took that small broken hose connector off, inside that venturi I have found a red rubber membrane and a black plastic separator and both of these 2 small components were turned over in random directions inside the venturi inlet. I had no idea of the correct order in which I should put the red membrane and the black circular plastic separator (which has some 4 holes in it) between the venturi and the small hose end plastic cap, so I've put the membrane towards the venturi and the circular opened plastic separator towards the hose cap, I've glued the broken nipple which was more than half broken inside the hose to what has remained form it on the cap that is attached to the exhaust camshaft venturi's entry and started the engine. Bad surprise...! The fix didn't hold very long and a lot of engine oil started spraying under the hood from the exhaust camshaft's port side end. I've only noticed this after driving the car some 30km. After I've opened up the broken end's cap, I had an even greater surprise..., the red membrane which I've placed (because I didn't know the order) towards the camshaft's venturi is GONE. Most certainly now I have that piece of membrane loose in the oil circuit...! All that remained in that venturi is the circular plastic separator which I now realize it was suppose to hold that membrane from going where it shouldn't and through my haste and lack of patience I did just the opposite of what I should've done. Thank you very much!
it does not come always with the engine ; it also depends on the reason you swap the engine ; if the reason is high milage then the turbo will have high milage as well and it's worth replacing
Hi Very good work on this video I have a question… I have a 1.0 ford as well which recently gave me a lot of issues with speed and it finally gave up on me and took it in for check in and they replaced: Timing belt Valves Coil And now they tell me the turbo isn’t working. Should I check other sources as to why it’s not working or replace it completely?
Same thing here…I just did the valves and timing belt….car came with no power especially on up hill and it will show engine service info light. Some mechanics have tendency of braking valves during stripping, which later results in vacuum leakages…I already found vacuum pump valve broken and attached with glue…..I’m looking into replacing it…hopefully I get my power back But all thanks to the tutor…amazing video.
Loved the video! Currently have a Focus 1.0 with the same engine, how long did it take to pull it apart and back together? I'm looking at an aftermarket turbo which is a direct bolt on. I'm mechanically inclined but never touched a turbo before. Thanks in advance for the reply!
Hi can u help me , I've got the same engine and my turbo wastegate is rattling like hell. So I've brought another turbo , I've heard u have to bleed the oil pipe . Do I need to fill the new turbo up with oil from a syringe first or just take the fuse out for fuel pump and crank engine over till oil comes out the oil pipe and then connect it all back together .
both front windows will not work I checked the fuse the fuse is working Any Idea what's wrong with it even the front passenger window switch not working the back windows are working Thanks
hey i have exact the same model i just bought the car today ...one quick question my turbo charger is getting very very hot if i put a bit of water it burns and now im not sure if i have to worry or not please give me an advice
Very nice video and information about this engine, appreciate it, i have one question, my actuator vibrates when i release the gas, the arm when the little gate is closed , when is coming back it vibrates and makes like a metallic sound.. what could it be? It's so annoying
Does it only do that when cold? If it stops after it warms up it’s because they included room for thermal expansion which means it’s a little loose when cold
Can you help, I have a Ford Focus 2013 ecoboost 1.0.that now lacks in power at high speed, it's like you have a speed limiter fitted. You get to say 70mph and it won't go any faster? No error codes are showing. If you reach any inclines you would have to drop down a Gear to maintain your speed. Regards. Barry.
This can be caused by many reasons. If there are no trouble codes , There should be a more in depth investigation on the live data , there is no way to guess around .
@@Matt.lmr.johnson it’s very strange, when we went onto this new fuel at the pumps, it’s now ok, I’m putting it down to that, Unless it’s a summer thing, hopefully not. Regards. Barry.
Ok you don’t need to take off the back heat shield I did this today, the only issue I had was fitting back The Recirculation oil pipe you have to be careful of the gasket it breaks and it’s a pain, also the oxygen sensor is a pain to get off you don’t show how you did that ..
Hi i have a problem with my focus 1.0 ecoboost... while driving it losses the power but son as I switch the car of and turn back on again it gets the power back that’s also while driving... i did the diagnostic on it it shows the code P132B ... i did sendit to a different garages and they saying different things from each other no one knows what is it.... you have any idea why it does that
I would start by doing the tests I showed in this video . Especially the selenoid actuator ( basically the switch of the turbo ) Yesterday I worked on one which was stuck open all the time and the bearings failed over time due to prolonged load . However it seems like your actuator does not get enough vaccum so it might be a vacuum leak on the lines ; since the vacuum is stronger when the car idles it makes sense that the turbe gets it's power back when you start the car . So only proper testing will confirmed that .
Nakul Kris no no one didn’t do anything on it now it losst the power completely and im driving on a limp mode sins one month now .... i decide to sendit to ford and we see if they can find anything
Just simply say thanks for the good detailed explanation. I’d be curious how many languages you speak...criticising others pronunciation who are intelligent enough to learn a foreign language or might be more.
Hi there, I need bit of advice. I have got the same car 2013 model. Car is in limp mode. When you Rav the car, it only goes to 1000 rpm. Car has no power and would not move but if I unplugged the vacuum line going to actuator carcar drives fine and RPM works. It just doesn’t have boost and won’t go over 60 to 70 mph. any idea what’s causing it? And can you please point me in the right direction?
