10 YEAR OLD 410A AC SYSTEM EVAPORATOR COIL REPLACEMENT COMPLETE merch = teespring.com/stores/steve-lav / stevenlavimoniere lavimoniere productions llc subscribe to my channel / @stevenlavimoniere lavimoniereplumbingandheating....
That was an easy remove and replace evaporator for sure ! Good design by the manuf. Also, very smart idea to use the 20% silver solder, eliminating extra time to flow nitrogen and braze. I guess it helps that the original installation was done in a good way too. Rather sad the copper joints failed on the old one and even more sad that the manufacturers don't supply new copper replacement evaporators as the aluminum tube tend to corrode and leak in a short 6 to 10 years. If you have the needed tools and equipment, it sure makes the job go smoother. I have seen guys beat their head against the wall by not having the proper gear to get a job done correctly and in a smooth fashion.
Steve I wish it was mandatory for all licensed A/C techs to use all the fancy equipment you use. These young kids that work for a small outfit just slam refrigerant in without using any vacuum pump or gauges. Great job!
Thats a nice set up. I was wondering where to keep my back up hose's - other than ziplock bags. Went and got another back pack to hang of the head rest.
Man, this was really excellent. I learned a lot on this one. Someday could you explain the bulb upstairs? That's the only part I'm still not completely clear on. I will look back and see if you have some other videos about it.
I have that same dome type skylight window! Cranks out the same. Put it in myself. Dad had it hanging around in pole barn from the 80/early nineties' so I put it in few years back! It has a deep well on the inside to out (between joists). Exactly, lets heat out of A frame loft. She could, it may help shingles last longer, depending on attic ventilation. has bug screen. 😀
And he had the manifold open 😬so it was pumping down possible air in that manifold from the 😅the hoses, just need the gauge part , manifold doesn’t need to be open , unless recovering. Right after compressor got pretty noisy , some scrolls can take it some can hold it and it will make noise and possible not pump down all the way
You will not be disappointed. I have been using it for the past 15 years and never had an issue. I do HVAC and refrigeration on yachts and commercial fishing vessels. Many times the line sets are in an area where you don't want to saturate it with excessive heat. Make sure your joints are clean and fairly tight. Also use the Harris stay clean paste, no other Flux works with the Saty Brite 8.
smart to back off your gage i noticed you cranked it in. on you nitrogen tank, you were schooled well. i do it all the time it serves to purposes in my mind. safety from some one accidently hitting the valve on the tank and takes stress off the diaphragm. you should do it on all ages oxy acc. etc.. IMHO any thing with a spring tension when not in use back off the pressure. torque wrenches fire arms throw the bolt forward a good practice
I’m kinda not a big fan of pumping it down. Ik it’s faster, I just feel like it stresses the compressor too much and a lot of the oil will stay in the old evap which takes away from the lubrication
Curious, whats the approximate job time for this A coil job. It looked to be pretty straight forward for that job condition. I am sure some can be rather tough. Easy peezy, wham bam - done. In my area they quote 4 hours for this job.
You replace the coil. If you repair a tube on the outside bend, you most likely will be chasing more leaks in the very near future. No worth the risk of your integrity
Don't mention that name on this channel. Steve had some issues with that person a while ago, sure he wants to forget it and never revisit the bullshit.
You get the unused portion of your initial warranty. If you have a coil with a 10 year warranty and it leaks in 9 years, your new coil will only have one year warranty. Common practice in HVAC and water heaters.
The equipment being made today is pure garbage. Just found out my Ruud evap coil is pissing refrigerant. Zero charge in the system. Entire system is less than 7 years old. Now I'm on the hook for at least the labor, assuming it's still under the 10 year parts warranty. Absolutely pisses me off.
Used to love your videos but completely fell out on this one using stay bright # 8 in place of 15% silfoss on a 410a system and not even running nitrogen while brazing even using stay bright #8 you should still be running nitrogen I've seen it ash of many times on the inside.
ya guy you don't need nitrogen when using staybrite 8 it melts at lower temps so there is no ash inside piping ,, Einstein ,and its stronger then bracing .. do your research i was not brazing i was soldering
you don't think so ??? try stealing someone's videos and post on RU-vid you will find out real quickly about copyright .and get a strike 3 and your gone .. a have people all the time trying to steal my footage and repost on RU-vid .. weekly .. yes its called copy right .. enstine
I have an American Standard 2.5 ton, and after 4 years the coil blew. Lost all the refrigerant. Cost me a fortune to replace it, plus the labor to install a new A coil. American Standard replaced the coil, still under warranty. I have my unit serviced twice a year, can you lose all the 410A in that period of time? Do all the HVAC manufacturers use aluminum coils now? I had a RUDD before that which lasted 14 years, probably had a copper coil.
@@tonym6920 unfortunately yes a lot of the big manufacturers are using copper coils now like Trane/AS, Carrier/Bryant and Rheem/Ruud. My company installs Bryant but when I quote a job I always always quote an ADP coil because they are still making them out of copper. Saves me and the customer a headache!
I was about to talk shit for not brazing but than I realized that with todays garbage coils the soldered joint will outlast the coil. There is no need to braze anymore unless it is a very high pressure commercial system. And you are 10x more likely to screw up a braze than a solder.
