'13 F-150 No Start + VR Style Crank Sensor Operation 

Those pics are way better than Facebook when you were messing around with it. That’s good that you found it and like a lot of master techs who dabble in everything you found some parts cannon activation based on guessing and swaptronics kind of diagnostics. Good job and keep them coming as much as possible

Thanks for sharing PJ... Cheers.

Awesome video bro

PJ great video and troubleshooting. Well first it doesn’t say much for replacement parts. Very respectful how you bashed no one. We all make mistakes we’re only human. Great simple explanation on VRS operation. Thank you. Been a long time subscriber and hope you meet and exceed your goal. PJ you and family stay safe and well Artie 👍🇺🇸

WELL DONE 👍. You touched on several fundamental topics like variable reluctance sensors and bias voltages. Perhaps you might further explain those concepts in a follow up video?? It's always fun to put a demo together on the bench. A small bar magnet with a few turns of wire can represent a CKP, a piece of metal the trigger wheel, and a 9V battery can supply your bias. Then, bring the demo to life with your fluke, a scope, and maybe even a drill motor. Just a "viewer suggestion". Cheers

Awesome case study! Great job!

Great job breaking down your diagnostic process with this one. I really enjoyed the video. Keep em coming.

Awesome video. Way to stick with the process! That has to frustrating to have a sensor installed wrong 3 times. 🤦‍♂️

Good control system troubleshooting! I worked for decades as a control system technician in industry. Now retired, (part time instructor in an apprenticeship program) I'm totally fascinated by automotive systems as they are a continuation of my life work, just on a smaller scale. I was directed to your channel by a suggested link from SMA who does great work and who I've been binge watching for weeks. Keep up the good work! Also, reluctance is analogous to resistance in an electrical circuit. Both affect intensity or magnitude, of field strength (magnetic) or current (electrical). In either case as with all sensors, it is the change produced that is detected by the input circuitry of the supervisory computer or PCM, triggering a solid state device into conduction by several means. >How current change in a coil is impacted by the presence of a ferrous metal (i.e. the tooth of the gear or reluctor input) is easily witnessed by energizing a coil with and without a screw driver or bolt inserted into the coil. Without, the coil become extremely hot very quickly and will burn up. With the screw driver/bolt, current is limited due to the change in reluctance of the magnetic circuit. Though my comments are generalizations, this is basically how all control systems work. Detect an input change, then produce a desired output dependent on a logical interpretation of the inputs by way of logic gates, (AND, OR, NOT, NOR, NAND) and or operational amplifiers (OpAmps). Thanks!

Nice Job PJ!

What a quality video and diag! Thank you!

PJ, you aske if I enjoyed ur video 100% do not stop sharing ur knowledge and expertise please they are an valuable to a tech like my self and appreciate ur time to do this thankyou brother from Ontario/ Canada cheeeeeers.

Nice find PJ 👍

Great work man 🤙

Voltage drop diagnostics Good Evening take care and have a great day 👍 Happy Christmas 🎄 and happy new year 🎉 Great tutorial thank you 👍 From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

Great diag, PJ! It's a shame the mechanic didn't pay extra attention during the second installation since he knew he screwed up the first install.

Great video bro!

Good work Pj. Definitely frustrating to run into tech induced issues. “Cash in them streets” 🤑

Great vid PJ. I really enjoyed the thought process and explanations. Also the point that the biases cancel each other out on the scope. I think maybe the wheel well would have been easier. Lol

Awesome, awesome, AWESOME!! I thoroughly enjoyed the step by step process. Amazing how the sensor kept getting installed improperly! Woohoo!!! Almost 10k! Way to go oooooo! 🥳👏🏻👍🏻

new to the channel and like the case study and presentation. well done PJ.

Good job 👍👍

Step one, Check your battery voltage, then clean the terminals. Now you can work on the vehicle.

Awesome 👏

That's why they make circular saws for access through the floorboard. LOL

I’ve seen a ton of cars where people take one issue and turn it into into multiple issues with the parts cannon like that. New parts doesn’t mean good parts especially when it comes to things like aftermarket mass airflow sensors.

I found your channel through someone else’s channel and noticed they had a t-shirt with your channel’s name on it. Is it possible that I could get one as well or are they more exclusive merch? If it is possible, I would love to get one in a 6XL. Love your content, keep up the great work

Question how did you get business? I know programming and diagnostics but what do you do just walk into a shop and tell them or use business cards?

Can you expulsión the crank sensor for the 3.5 turbo engine please

What a nice case study!! Is this part of the next class? If so I am in. Thanks again for sharing knowledge.

Sir, you are the only one I know who can help me out with this car problem. The car is a range rover 1998 p38 4.6HSE and v8. Many people were invited to start the car even from a far State but the couldn't. The challenge is a crank no start, no spark,no injector pulse but good communication with a scan tool. I have added fuel to the intake manifold and crank the engine no change at all. It is not starting. In addition, I checked for spark, but there is no spark as well. Hence, I have just checked for injector pulse but there's no injector pulse either. There is also no ignition current to the injector circuit with key ON and engine off. All the fuses and relays are good. I also checked the injector circuit for continuity if the wire is shorted but it was ok. Scan tool communicated and showed only p1843 and p1842 code. There was no RPM during cranking. What I noticed today when I compared the ignition, earth and DC with the same car that was starting and driving to the car that was not starting, what I saw made me to flabbergasted. Where the was ignition for example in the working car there was DC in the car that was not starting. Also a particular relay circuit for example RL-2 one of the pin of the connector when my test light was on battery ground and relay removed, the pump buzzed and testlight dim but when I tried that same location with test light and same pin the test light was dim and ABS relay was actuated no buzz from pump. It is like that in many places in the fuse box and PCM circuit. Please what's the cause of the problem and what do I need to do to fix the problem?

Great video PJ!! I don’t know if I missed the memo but are you not working for the dealer anymore?

Awesome video PJ. If I could subscribe again I would

You should of left a card for your training class. A battery that flat would be around 9v on Crank and E.C.U. See all input reporting faults. Why didn't they let you fix in garage.😂

Have the same problem with my 2011 f150

👍👍🌷

Are you going part time mobile? Awesome video