1961 Ben Hogan Power Thrust Club Restoration - A Surprise Makeover 

Thank you!

Thank you! This is my canvas, and your positive comments are the muse. Thanks for watching.

The M75 Colokrom, the Wilson Dynapower, and this one are my top 3 so far. Look up the Macgregor Centennial on Google images with the half copper, half chrome face. I have a Tommy Armour AT1 with a similar face (without the copper) that I want to try this on. I think it will look awesome.

Thanks, Scott. What's weird is that I wasn't very excited about this one, but the final product made me LOVE this club. It's really pretty in person.

@@BradMeehan yes they are gorgeous, what a great job! They are so good looking and when you hit them it’s pure butter😎😁

I agree! Thank you for watching.

Thank you! I'd drool over them on the shelf for sure.

Thank you. More on the way!

This has come up a few times so I'll make sure I add this into my next restoration video. I have a sweet iron I'm restoring now so I'll weight it before and after.

@@BradMeehan Much appreciated! Let's see how that goes.

Thank you. Plenty more to come!

Thank you, my friend. Hope your projects are coming along well.

Lol. It's a recurring theme here.

Thank you. I was surprised by this one. It's been sitting in the junk pile of clubs for a while. It's my new favorite (so far).

@@BradMeehan looks great mate 👍 I've been doing very simple restoration of clubs for a few years now just simple polishing , removing minor dings and bag clatter, re, sharpening grooves ......grips , shafts , paint fill etc but really want to get into the nickel plating like you do 👍 so i can properly restore irons in my spare time on the side I'm itching to try and get setup and watch all your stuff your getting better and better 👍 what your turning out now is fantastic, your the best I've seen on RU-vid for a guy that does it at home 👏 your my inspiration to take club restoration for myself to the next stage.

Thank you, Mark. I appreciate all of your nice comments.

I would love to have a go at the plating but in the UK getting the chemicals is nearly impossible for a DIYer. How do the clubs stand up when played?

@@markbowes3970 Have you tried calling the school's chemistry department to see where they order supplies? All you really need is a nickel anode and you can make your own solution.

Thanks Brad. Worth asking!

Thank you, Alan. For some reason I wasn't excited to start this one buy when it was done, it's now my new favorite. The lettering against that wall of shiny metal looks gorgeous.

I love almost all the Ben Hogan range

@@alangibson4499 They're are absolute class. I have a Director and a Bounce Sole 1+ I'm looking forward to doing.

Absolutely. It was my Christmas gift and I'm just now putting it into play. It saves so much time. I know they make 2" Scotch-Brite belts and I'll bet they have 4" as well.

@@BradMeehan are you a part of an online forum? I’ve got some issues with my plating process and would love to work with a community and share best practices. Plus I’m happy to post up some of my successes and failures as well while I’m figuring it all out.

@@GoT2bBrIaN I haven't found any forums for this yet. There are plating forums on the Caswell site, but nothing specific to golf clubs. Maybe I should start one? You're welcome to email me Brad @ BradMeehan .com

Thanks, Alex. In my opinion, I'd stamp the club after you sand and do the sisal wheel (right before you start really shining it). This way, if you introduce more scratches while you're pounding on it, you can take ONE step back and clean those up and not be back to square zero. The nickel solution can be used forever provided you keep it clean. What is used up is the nickel anodes themselves, who are feeding the solution and get eaten away. You will have to add more distilled water to keep the level full. If you were to let all of the water evaporate, you'd be left with the dried nickel salts you started with. Jury is still out on the durability. I'm an 18HCP, so my friends and I are going to make a video where we take out a few clubs and see how beaten-up they get. Certainly not as durable as chrome. Finally, your video idea has been on my mind for a while now. I'm thinking of doing a multi-part series of every step including equipment set-up in detail. Almost like a DIY class series where I can explain all of the things I've learned including tips and tricks. What are your thoughts on that?

@@BradMeehan Thanks for getting back to me! Really appreciate it. And I think that's a great idea. I know I would watch it. You'd really be helping a lot of us get started with these type of projects!

Thank you. Yes, there's a link in the description to the products. Let me know if you have questions.

Durability is less than chrome for sure. Chrome carries so much additonal safety and cost concerns that I chose this. I'm still just a dude in my basement experimenting, so I'm open to try new stuff. Caswell sells a Copy Chrome which is nickel and cobalt, so it's harder than just the nickel. I may try that

I've updated my hanger for that reason. I never saw the marks probably because I kept looking at it and it would jostle into a new position. I'm now hanging it by the hosel, toe-down and it seems to work good.

Thanks Jeffro. I learned it from Bob Ross.

@Dean Mitchell I know Jeff and he was totally busting my balls.

@@BradMeehan The full in the number is a happy blue and that little bit of fill in the logo is going to be our little secret.

@@16-bit-trip5lol!

I heard you are the 2nd best painter in your household. 😃 Great restoration videos. Love the results.

In hindsight, the cradle isn't ideal. I haven't noticed any thinning, but that doesn't mean it's not occurring in microns. The aeration may juggle it a bit or it could shift enough when I'm checking it. Ideally I should hang it by the hole of the hosel with the toe pointed downward so nothing is touching it. I just need to buy a taller container. If you're considering doing this, I'd say go with the latter approach. I'm going to make a video on "tank maintenance" so I'll address it there.

@@BradMeehan I bend a piece of copper, Crimping it with vice grips small enough so it fits snugly in the hosel. I then create a hook on the other end and hang it off of the copper pipe. That really minimizes the number of times I have to touch the club head when I’m wearing the gloves. Touching the clubhead even while wearing gloves have left imperfections for me.

Sure. I did one a few weeks ago too. Check it out.

If you polish it, it will smooth it out. You could hit it lightly with the media blaster gun to get the matte finish back.

You have to polish them to get an even base, then either brush with a scuff pad or spray them with the media blaster to make them matte. I'm going to do a matte/satin video soon.

Also, check out my brushed metal finish video I did a few weeks ago.

Yessir. I put a list in the description of the videos. Take a look. You'd need a bench grinder at a minimum to do a food job. Mine was from Harbor Freight, a low-cost tool store if you're in the US. My other was from an estate sale for $20. The belt sander attachment is new, but not required. But those Scotch-Brite belts really make life easy. Let me know if you have any questions. Happy to help.

@@BradMeehan I appreciate your quick response. I'll likely try a dremel before buying a bench grinder. I couldnt find you electric machine you use to plating. Your videos are great! I really appreciate you man!

Yes, everything gets cleaned and plated. Probably just lost in editing but clean everything going into the tank.

I eyeballed it. It was a total guess. The blue with the gold looks incredible next to each other in person. I hope I got it right!

@@BradMeehan it certainly looks amazing to me.

Thabks, Jon. The sanding and a dilute acid bath took care of it.

The chrome is the same process but it's MUCH more expensive and carries health risks to be messing with it in a basement.

Yes. Same step for carbon steel clubs.

This step is only required for clubs that rust. This provides a layer of protection against corrosion.

I was reading that the + was the more forgiving version of the clubs - at least on their Bounce Sole 1+ irons.

Just doing DIY at this point. But thanks for thinking of me. Happy to guide you along. It's really easy stuff.

Thanks Ken. I used 3.5 volts and .5 amps and went and played a hacky 9. I think your settings are good but the time may be a little short if you're going to play golf with it. If it's just going to be a wall hanger to display or art, then you're perfect. How are they turning out?

@@BradMeehan I had a feeling my plating time was too short. With the MP32’s I “stole” for $117.50 on EBay, I sand blasted the face (180 grit media, @80 psi) post plating and it flaked all of the face, leading me to believe the nickel was too thin. I just got a set of MP57’s I’ll plate for an hour per head to see how that does. Also. I’ll sand blast pre plating as you did in your latest video.

@@kenjones480 For our little operation, blasting first had been more successful. I learned the hard way like you did. How are they turning out?

@@BradMeehan they’re turning out great, imo. I’m not sure how to describe it, but they are coming out just a shade less than bright nickel. I have not strained the nickel solution, maybe that’s my issue.

I mixed green and blue to make the teal color.

Thank you. The electrocleaner is best, but if you can't get it you can just clean the club with automotive brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner or something that will pull out all the oils. I have a video called "chrome removal" that shows a "water break test". If you can pass the water break test and the water sheets off when you spray it with distilled (deionized) water, then you should be ok.

@@BradMeehan thanks Brad!

And isopropyl alcohol for cleaning?

@@gastonmaffei1721 I wipe the greasy compound off with alcohol. But you'll need something stronger for a true cleaning before plating. Can you get brake cleaner?

It would depend on how much of the equipment you have or if you need to purchase some items. There is a cost for the nickel, wheels, etc but once you own them, they're yours to do as many as you can handle with some replenishment for the supplies you consume.

I don't offer this as a service. I'm just screwing around in my basement.

This one is wall art, but it's quite durable.

You could *

I'd prefer if you followed the tutorials to try it. It's very easy to do.

@@BradMeehan but is it dangerous all the chemicals and the electricity ?

@@Mister_shorts83 You'll have to follow the safety suggestions on the kit.