Great work as always Brad. Love the back story on being part of the set your father gave your brother. Love Synchro Dyned irons but makes these are extra special.
Another great job! Curious about the shaft, I have never encountered a threaded shaft. Was that an attachment affixed to the shaft, or was that a specialty shaft for Spaulding clubs? Always great to see your work, very inspiring.
Thank you, Greg. Some older clubs had threaded shafts, some had the pin, and some had both. Modern epoxy seems to hold up as well as these methods, so you won't see them in anything from probably the 80s on. I really had to take the heat to the hosel it to get it free. They turn opposite of the direction of the club face so impact actually keeps them tight on the shaft. Happy Father's day if you have kiddos.
Also, on the tank set up: I'd get a deeper container so you can hang the club by the hole in the hosel with the toe pointing down. I'll do an update video with the details. It's a cleaner way to hang the club.
At the 6:00 mark, after all the polishing, there's still an orange coloring on the club in certain areas. What is that? It appears you're able to nickel plate right over it. Great work as always!
It's called Bright Nickel. Chrome is expensive and carries a lot of safety concerns. Caswell sells a copy chrome kit. I've tried it on a small scale but not on a club. It's about twice the price of nickel but is supposed to be more durable.
Incredible work. These videos are absolutely superb! Could I ask how long you leave the club head in the acid solution? Is it just a judgement thing or do you have a set time period?
Thank you. It's arbitrary, but I'd say 15 minutes is good. You'll see it change colors. It it's not enough. You can dip it again, but the sanding will take care of any leftovers.
Thanks! No, lately, I've been finding individual, unique clubs that are attractive to me that I want to bring back to life. I like anything with interesting shapes, fonts, and decorative details.
Stumbled on your account a week ago and I’m obsessed with it now! Love your work! I went out and got myself a buffing wheel and brought life back to my clubs…. I love the look of the club after you hit it with the abrasive blaster, should I do this to my clubs which are fairly new and I play regularly? Or is this just for your wall hangers that won’t be used to play…
You can play with them! Absolutely. The nickel isn't as tough as the original chrome layer, but once you learn this technique, you'll just have to drop the club in the plating solution again for a fresh layer.
Brad, VERY interested in that grinder belt sander attachment Sir, might you have a link to that one?? Thank you so much for all this effort Brad, it DOES make a difference...😉😉
Sweet. Thank you. I'm glad I've found my people! Take a look at the Polishing section on the storefront. It's called the Multitool attachment. I got the belts on golfworx. www.amazon.com/shop/bradmeehan
How long to you leave it in the plating tank? Ive made the exact same setup as you and my results vary greatly. My problem is I'm getting big deposits of random nickel spots. I am also using the electro cleaner before every plate too.
I leave it in there about 2 hours at 3.5 volts and .5 amps. The distance between the anode and the club matter too. Can you share some pictures? My email is on my channel page.
I've never done tumbling. I can imagine it would take a long time. I think you'd have more control over doing it by hand. Sanding and polishing is the only way to remove the chatter. Is the putter chrome plated?
Even vinegar would work but it's slooooow. It's also an acid, though. There are products at auto parts stores like Evapo-Rust that could work. I restored an old motorcycle and the muriatic acid worked the best for heavily rusted parts.
Hey, sarge. Happy Father's day. I prefer doing the blasting before only because I've nicked the plating on a club when I did it after. And, there's a tinge of dark spots left when i before. I like the uniform look of the same tint of color from doing it this way.
Hey brad, great video again! I want to replicate this (at least at the polishing level) and I am curious about which compounds you're using with each wheel.
Thabk you. Check out a post I made a few days ago of a compound color chart. The chart that shows each compound color and their use. Then, if you watch a few of the other restoration videos I made, I generally show on the bottom of the screen which color and which wheel I'm using. Most of my time is spent on the sisal wheel, then the denim using black, brown, and white. Then I put the shine on it with the loose cotton and some green. The chart says blue, but green seems to look better to me. Hit me up with questions.
Would i be able to send you my irons for same treatment. But reinstalled back onto the shafts? There “Vintage Mcgregor Tommy Armour-Ironmaster 234’s” (2-9 irons)
The diluted muriatic acid bath removes the rust and thin layer of chrome. Sanding takes away the rest if there was any remaining. I also have a chrome stripping solution that works well. I made a video of it. But the acid is easiest. It's sold as a pool cleaner.
An inexpensive test would be to buy a small bottle of Birchwood Casey's "Super Blue", which is used on guns to turn the bare steel black. If that works, then you can polish the clubs using my polishing tutorials to get the underlying metal smooth, clean with alcohol, then re-"blue" them. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PGpYh-_llzE.html
What type of media did you use in that spot blaster? I have one of harbor freights other spot blasters and it's garbage lol. I used their glass bead. The gun leaks out the tip more than it sprays 🤦
It's the aluminum oxide (60 grit) media. I also bought it at Harbor Freight. Mine leaks as well, but it does a pretty good job for what im doing. I'd love to get an actual blasting cabinet.
I do - especially the putters. I generally list them in ebay. I've been doing single irons for the channel lately so not too many full sets. But i usually add a link in the description to the ebay page
