I really like how you approach your work. Cover all bases and that way no nasty surprises later. Commentary is really great and the process is well explained, thank you.
slick sand is the ultimate product for filling,i've restored cars for 50 years,wish they had made the stuff decades ago,it does not shrink or fade or actually any no no's,it saves a lot time guys,i actually sand using 180 or 220 just before priming with this stuff,it covers everything,i love it,shot my barracuda with it,heavy,had to let it set for a year no paint,it was a miracle,cleaned it off shot it,you'd never know it sat so long,no cracks,i'm damn impressed with this product and use it exclusively,to hell with the cost,but it does stink,blow it and leave the area till it hardens,i usually let it out gas for 2 days,sand it flat shoot it
MAN you really know your stuff with The who, what, when, were when it comes to paint process my Brother! Thank you so much for sharing your experience. Love the soundtracks to your videos! Rock on my man. ROCK ON!!!!
I know someone with a 6 tail light wide body. It’s in serious need of restoration. It sat for years and the shop that has it just got it running recently. There was a gentleman in Ruskin, Fl who had a complete collection of Corvettes. He had that old motel on 41. The last I heard he was selling them off.
Slick sand is a great product and up until recently was real affordable. I use to use a product called Sandy that was a polyester primer too. Never had either one fail
Every PPG class I have ever sat through since the mid 90's, the instructor always said No to any poly over DP unless Fully cured. As in Weeks, not days.
Interesting info. I have a 88 Mercedes W126 560SEC that i am going to widebody with the Kit i purchased some 10yrs ago in fibreglass. The rear flairs i have to chemically bond fibreglass to bare metal ( i will most likely pop rivet as well for good measure) and then fibreglass over the seams before applying body filler. The PPG-VP2050 sounds like a good choice as existing paint had a respray over the years by previous owner and i don't know what product they used. The coupe has no damage or dings so its all prep work which i will be doing as well as painting the the whole car in 040 black which is its original colour which it still is now (non metallic)
Great work. I do have to ask why you sanded the epoxy. I always apply the epoxy, wait 24 hours and apply the poly directly on top. I haven't used DPLF in almost 10 years, but I thought I recall it having a 7 day recoat window...maybe its less with poly... Just curious thats all, not doubting anything by any means.
It’s great stuff.🙂I always go back over it with 2k sealer or primer.Ive done many cars where whoever used this stuff failed to seal it since it’s porous and it was cracking .
Never had that issue with featherfill, we went against the “rules” and wet sanded and painted directly over featherfill with no problems. Have paint jobs that been painted 20+ years ago and still going strong with no issues
I'm working on a 1972 Cutlass W25 OAI made from SMC fiberglass. I have sanded almost all of the original lacquer paint off. So, if I finish removing any spots of lacquer from the hood, I can just go straight to the Feather Fill? What sandpaper should I use on the hood just before spraying FF? I only bought a quart of the FF since the hood is all I want to use it on. So, I was thinking of mixing up 1/2 a quart and catalyzing it and spray the fiberglass hood and then dump the rest, clean the gun, mix up the second half quart and spray the second coat? I'm spraying the whole car in Viking Blue PPG Duracryl lacquer with their High performance clear over that. It's all NOS paint I've stored inside, unopened for all these years. I enjoy your content....Thank you!
Would you do a video on spraying single stage paint since most everything is basecoat/clearcoat now days, would like to see how you spray a single stage color. Thanks
Really appreciate the video. Reaffirms my process. Been using starting line 1.8 primer gun. I’ve tried to go bigger to a 2.5 cheap throw away gun from my jobber. It does not lay down the material well at all. I was curious on your gun for spraying the slick sand? Also do you use the same for your high build primers? I’m exploring replacing. Literally dropped today and broke the gun frame cleaning. On the hunt for a replacement. Appreciate any and all feed back.
