How To Flow Coat A Car After Paint - What Is Flow Coating? 

Great tutorial on Flow Coating. I’m always picking up tips from you Pharraway 🤝

Welcome to the glassworks! That is a great job, excellent workmanship!

Great video. I have two questions, did these doors have base coat and clear coat before you started the Flow Coating ? And the second was you mentioned the doors were left a loan (to dry ?) for a week. Is that the rule ?

do you sand and clear coat the edges?

✨nice 🤩

Clear coat should have been 10-15% reduced from the start, then you can get it flat straight up

Hey...you don't have to do a flow coat that way...that's too much work. You can flow coat on your last coat of clear when you paint...but you need a booth . What you do is spray your base coat using the right reducer (if you are not using waterborne ) , then spray your first coat of clear with the right reducer for the temp. Let it flash off for a good twenty or thirty minutes. Spray a second coat, same reducer, same flash off time. Spray a final coat but use a reducer for a higher temperature...and it will flow out like glass.

Holy crap, that looks like glass. Amazing results, you are obviously at the top of your game.

Painter for 40 years and I would never do that. The best way in my opinion is to wet sand with 1500 or. 2000 wet and dry and then polish up with a polisher. Your 600 on a sander is way too coarse and you could go through the clear. Nothing wrong with your method, both methods get the same result. Good job though man.

Family thank you for this flow coating is an art and you broke down the details to make the results amazing

People can go 800 or 1000 grit if scared of 600. Great video TY

That’s sweet, texture, smooth as glass and perfect! Flow coat is what I like, awesome results!

Wow! I’ve never seen a trigger actuated light mounted on a spray gun. Very cool. Thanks for your information!

This is what you do when you have used a cheap 4-1-1 clear that pinches up with a lot of peel. Use a high solids 2-1 clear and your peel will look factory slick. Cheap scates always use cheap crap that cost 4× as much as useing high quality very expensive materials.

This is the proper way to get a glass finish & get rid of orange peel. Cut & buff removes clear & the uv protection. You cant guarentee how much clear you cut off. Different edges might almost cut through, then youre clear eventually fails. This is the same amount of work as cut n buff, or less imo.. i dont buff, my job comes out great or i flow coat it.

CHEERS from AUSTRALIA

Like glass...lots of work..Good job brother...

600 grit us too course still, 800 is minimum

Nice job. Thank you for sharing and teaching. Kind regards.

I can tell you love what you do n have integrity in your work! That’s what make you a master at it! Thanks for teching us brother!

Awesome work carnal, you and SprayWay get down hard when it comes to yalls jale. Shout out from Clayton North Carolina

I flow coat mostly everything I paint

the reducer was the secret I needed and forgot. thank you, will try that on the next car

Wow, I think you've done this before. Beautiful job.

I understand hanging the doors for base coat color,but to reclear i will always spray horizontal if possible and it will have less orange peel than hanging, always

Solvent causes pinch and doi loss Everytime. Show me these panels after one day in the sun.

A true painter, his paint jobs don’t need to be sanded

I don’t know squat about auto painting, but this looks amazing!

I used to do this on custom motorcycles and helmets using 2K acrylic - but I'd flow coat as soon as the first coats were set enough to sand, usually the following day rather than waiting a week. I think you get a better bond of the flow coat if the previous ones are still a bit fresh.

Why not lay the doors flat. Better flow lest chance of sags or runs?

why do you keep on pressing the trigger when painting. i rarely let go of the trigger when refinishing...it wares the needle down

Oh brother, you’re gifted by God. Your degree of craftsmanship is out of this world. In top of that you have the rear ability to transmit your knowledge with excellence. God bless you and may He give you much health to continue your journey for many years to come.

Dear bro you have cleared it very well, just like glass, you just did not tell how after how much time the second code, when to send and after clearing the buffing, if you had explained the whole process then new people would have understood it too

U R a painting genius

Hi, great work! Is it possible to sand with 1200 grit instead of 600 grit and then apply the flow coat reduced at 10%, without having future problems of flaking of the last 2 layers applied? In other words, does sanding the previous three layers of clear coat with a p1200 guarantee the right mechanical adhesion to the new two layers? Many thanks!

That’s awesome and makes sense over buffing.

turned out nice..Did you fix the spots in the first door?. @7:20

I’ve found that clear doesn’t stick too well beyond the 400 grit.

Flow coating? I mean im a little older, but back in the day we just called it... "lets put some depth into this MOFO"

Summer time is fleeting, not relaxing but working on repairs. Question; was the same clear used on 1, 2 & 3? Some say inter-coat is required before top coating with high solids because it will cause ghosting and other unpleasant results. Inter-coat is common to graphics, strips and many other color issues including vinyl decals under clear. I am learning as I feel you are one of the best! DK, ASE master tech, retired! Thank you so much!

Pharraway, I need your advice. I followed your procedure for flow coating with the exception of using 800 grit then to 1000 then to 1500 and finally 2000. Then I clear coated but it came out hazy. So I then sanded all the clearcoat off and redid it but this time starting with 1000, 1500, then 2000, and then clear coating. After the clear coat dried I saw scratch marks from the sanding process ALL OVER the clearcoat. I don't understand why because I was EXTRA to remove/clean nibs and dust on the sand paper. Also swapping the sandpaper when necessary like you had suggested. Any ideas why this is occuring? I've spent over a week trying to fix and re-coat. Your help would be greatly appreciated.

I think I'd still buff it... When you were panning the camera across the finished panels, it looked like I could see a few specs of dirt/dust that got caught in those final clear sprays.

Hi Brother, as Always your workmanship is outstanding, also enjoy your projects. For the flow coat on both doors, being it was 95*, using slow hardener, 1.3 tip, did you used 5% or 10 % reducer, what was your air pressure set at? Thanks

Question, Do you change the pressure at the gun when flow coating? Higher pressure, Lower pressure or the same as when you spray the initial coat of clear? And my reasoning behind the question is because of the addition of the 10% reducer.

I use to do 3 coats of clear when doing stripes, then wet sand with 600 the next day then 3 more coats of clear. Now I can get the same results with 4 coats at once.

5 coats of clear! That's what I like to see. Most bodyshops tend to use 1.5- 2 coats which I think is ridiculous

I love seeing people working and sharing tips. We can always learn something new. When I heard you say how hot it was I was concerned but you did well! Still to this day after over 30 years of painting I remember the cleanest job I ever did. Dead of winter in 2004, 1956 ford f600 dually that was lowered. Jet black with red flames, tipped with white and blue. Had a fire going in the shop but it was snowing outside. Maybe 45 inside the booth. I ended up using the old magic reducer because of such low temperatures. Keep up the great work!

So in ur previous flow coating videos u used grey scotch pad before shooting the clear. Here you're just using 600 grit? What do think works better the grey scotch pad or 600?

I'm not sure I understand ! what's the difference then to normal coaching except you thin it down why don't you get the orange peel?

And some Cerveza and you will notice more brilliance

FYI if the clear does not recommend reducer......you should NEVER reduce it. Only reduce clear coats that are 1. High Solids 2. manufacturer specifically says the amount you should reduce it. 3 Never reduce it more than the label says......If you do not do all of these things it will SHORTEN THE LIFE of the CLEAR......Call ANY company representative and they will back me up 100%......I have experience with this!

You do such amazing work I love all of your videos but if you don’t mind I have a question for you is it possible to paint your car in pieces like the hood fenders then wait like a week then do the rest

It looks good but i can defenatly see some particles in it, this will still need to be sanded and buff right?

What pressure you adjust that gun too?😊 looks great and must have good ventilation because I don’t see any dust or anything in it. Nice job.😊

what's a quality inexpensive air sander for motorcycle? 5" or 6" ?

What kind of clear do you recommend for headlights? Will this work?

You got the painting down to a art nice work brother

Stopped as soon as the commercial came on figured it would be full of unnecessary editing

So you just started sanding and it appears the door has clear on it. Is that correct? Thank you for the video.😊

Nice work, how much is that clear set up? Looks good and seems off brand I may buy some

Are you in Washington? If anyone, it's you I would like to paint my truck.

What about metallics? I’ve had that setup and worked wonders without orange peel, but metal flake I saw it drag or create issues. And what PSI or did I miss that

Hi Pharraway! I need some help. I'm spraying silver metallic paint and unfortunately, I've run into some problems. I'm painting a car's front fender and the roof. The fender turned out beautifully, but the roof (which is a horizontal surface) ended up with stripes. What do you think I need to change? I've been reading a lot about this topic lately, and they say the most common mistake is applying too much material at once with large overlaps. Do you have any suggestions? I'm quite clueless at the moment and would like to repaint the roof because it's far from perfect as it is. Thank you!

I see you’re using that Urekem Glamour Clear, I’ve been using the same on my projects! Maybe you can offer some advice. I’ve found it to have a lot of die-back. Every job I’ve sprayed with it I’m happy with the finish, then a few days later the die-back is set in and it loses the nice mirror. Of course your get that on every clear to some extent, but I’m wondering if you have any tips for helping to avoid it? I get it really bad on a job I did over .004 flake.. 4 coats to bury it, looked great, but a few days later it had such bad dieback the flake was easily visible. Plenty of clear on top to wetsand without hitting the flake, though. Any thoughts? Try the slower activator perhaps? Thanks!

Is it possible to do any overalll flow coat flowing the same method? Or must it be a panel by panel process?

It does need a buff. Still some imperfections that showed up on camera to clean up. Way better than having to buff from the orange peel clear coat before tho

Hi Pharraway. It’s looking amazing, Very beautiful work!! Thank you for showing us how to do. 😀😀

Did you finish with 600 or wet sand with something finer after? Nice job

flow coating is when i diareah my jeans

I think it’s a waste of time and money if you got a lot of clear I always cut it with 800 or 1000 grit and work it up to 3000 and buff it and it’s like a mirror

Get enough coats, sand out orage peel... Shoot two coats clear, let set to proper time, then thin down clear... Shoot a hot heavy coat, and your done. No buffing. Ive done it with black HOK paint.

Hey Pharraway bro. I’m planning on doing black base, followed by a few layers of pearl, then two layers of clear. Wet sand, then a few flow coats. I’m worried about getting solvent pop - do you think I should let the base cure, wet sand, and then apply pearl? Or is pearl ok to apply say after one hour after the base? I will attempt to do: base (full cure, wet sand), 2x pearl and 2x clear (full cure, wet sand) and then 3 layers flow coat. I’m just concerned about getting solvent pop from all the layers of paint but think my plan is pretty good as no more than 4 coats at a time. What do you think? Oh and do you use a 1.3 or 1.4 tip for pearl/small metallic? Appreciate your channel and your advice bro, stay safe and well. 🙏

Would it be better to lay the panels down flat

Great video! Subscribed. However, during your opening, the animated gorilla sprays paint from the wrong end of the gun😂

We used to do this with hardened enamel. Shoot it ,wet sand it, clean it, re- shoot . Glass !!!!

I spy a Guam USA license plate on the wall.. Represent, 671...

Are your fans set to exhaust the paint out or blow air in and push paint out? Also are they explosion proof? Im trying to set my garage up any help is appreciated!

After flowcoating and you wetsand and buff, if you burn through the new layer of clear, will it show the 2 different layers?

Does this technique work with any paint colors. I am painting a truck pearl white. I am a little nervous about the technique

Like glass , nice job

After watching this, I learned something new, What a fantastic shine and mirror finish, Thank you,

Beautiful work! (As usual!)

So. As an individual new to the paint game. Why the extra runs at the base of the door? And is it the same with all panels?

You are an artist brother!

Looks awesome brother!

Ok iam getting ready to start my project can I use the same gun for both paint and clear coats

You have amazing skills painting vehicles. Thank you for the videos!

Whats the best way when reinstalling the doors on the car to line up all the corners?

Looks great. Question why did you stress using a new pad?

did you use the same air pressure as previous coats ... or did you up the pressure

Much respect for those that Share Knowledge rather than Keep it. God Bless you too👊🙏

This gave me anxiety...The. amount of times you came within an inch of the panel at the lowers..oh boy Flow coating terminology is literally not in any MSDS data sheet from any paint manufacturer. So I'm going to explain this in layman terms for ya'll. Dirt and lint aside, absolutely no reason for cut and buff when your chemicals are mixed correctly, for the temperature and humidty you're spraying in. To any painter struggling with orange peel, air flow, not just pressure, is usually your problem. If that's 100%, prep all your work for early morning or late in the evening spraying. All paint is designed to be sprayed at 75f. You have chemicals to aid you in the high production world, when you're literally jumping from two booths and painting 10 jobs a day. Worked in Florida for 3 decades, 5 star body shops. We never sprayed Concourse quality work during the day. Have your paint work ready for first thing in the morning or late in the evening. Only high production bodyshops spray at 90f out. Nobody !!! At 75f, mix your clear accordingly to temp etc. 1st coat must look like you want the last coat, if you have orange peel now. Something in your hardware is incorrect 100%. 2nd coat at 75f, about 5-10% of your reducer gets a splash of the next higher temperature reducer. So for example, 75f use 885 reducer on your first coat. 2nd coat gets 885 95% and 890 at 5%. Slower the reducer, more tail solvents are present. Allowing the clear to flow.. In this video, floor is dry and he's wearing a cotton shirt. Absolutely full of lint and particles. If you get in the habit of wearing non static clothes, use your tack cloth(used one) on yourself just before spraying. You'll enter the world of Sin Pulido (No polish) because your paint is that perfect.

same way I do guitar bodies and necks, didn't know it had a name I thought it was just how it was done? lacquers anyways, all those polys and acrylics you can just sand buff and polish those without clear if ya want to, depends how deep you want it to look I spose? but lacquer I always clear a few coats of lacquer over, sand down to at least 1200 then clear over 2-3 coats if its uneven or not right I might sand polish to 4500 but usually its good to go, wax on wax off

What brand DA are you using? Ty for another slick video!

Top job always from your magic hands brother! Regards from Greece!😊

How to avoid pigtails. How many times did you use each san disc paper. PLEASE HELP!!!

Im surprised you didn't wetsand the panels? But, it looks like it totally works for you. I have an older school lumina gun light. Im 11:32 know they have a #3 now. Trigger activated. That's cool!loved the video!

What's the light you use on your gun please

Hey Chris do you bump up the pressure at the tip when you’re flow coating? Another great video!!

Wouldnt it be the same effort to add an extra layer or 2 of clear during initial painting and just cut n buff?