1994-2015 Ford F150 5.4L & 4.6L VCT Solenoid Replacement 

Thank you for your video. As a mobile mechanic who is an ASE certified master with 45 plus years experience even I haven't seen everything. It is very helpful to have these videos to have an idea of what I'm going against before I get there.

Truck all of the sudden barely running after stopping at a stop sign. Replaced both sides and runs great again. Thank you

Thanks for showing the part#'s for the solenoids and seals. I destroyed my seal getting it off then called the dealer to see if they had one. The guy at the dealership told me "there are no gaskets or seals for the VCT solenoid." I tried to explain it to him and he just got more adamant that there's no such thing. So I re-watched you video and wrote down the part number. Now the same guy is going to have two VCT seals ready for me to pick up tomorrow.

Thanks, Greg. I ran for a couple months without the bad solenoid connected and finally replaced today. It was fairly easy to replace. I was scared to death of dropping the screw, but no problem. I'll replace the other one soon.

Nice, clean, straight forward, from a 30yr + certified mech to you...good job!

Thank you so much for doing both sides! Have an 08 F150 having the same ignition issues. Spent about an hour googling and searching to find the position for bank 2 and nothing was giving the correct spot. Thank you for the video.

Glad I saw this video! Another video was showing you needed to remove the valve covers and this made it look much easier! Thanks!

Was looking to see if I could change solenoid(s) in my 2005 transmission and came across this vid. Not only helpful, but must give a KC born and raised thumbs up!

2010 4.6. Thanks for the video, I was hopeful, but no go on this truck. Had to remove the valve covers. There just wasn’t enough room to either get onto the T27 torx head or remove the solenoid through the hole in the valve covers. Just take your time and don’t rush it. It was a full day job for me …mister slow … but got ‘er done ✔️

I just watched your video and I was shocked that its such an easy repair as it is, the dealership told me another version like tearing it all apart, but of course they wanted 600.00 for replacing the 2 solenoids. I have a 2010 F150 Raptor 5.4 engine and its problem is bad idling but one it get rolling its ok, so now I know that your fix is gonna be my fix.. Thanks a MILLION.. Awesome Regards JIMMY..

Thank you so much for posting this. Greatly appreciate it. -Poor College student

FYI You will not be able to remove the VCT on a 2009 F150 unless you remove the valve cover. The hole diameter in the valve cover is a lot smaller allowing no room to remove the screw holding the solenoid in place.

Has a engine light on for cam actuators but I’ve had them unhooked and it runs fine. 4x4 works great.

I’m jealous of how easily you got that bank 2 deal out. Mine has been fighting me for hours.

Thanks for this video. My 08 f150 has been doing this intermittently for awhile now and I couldn't figure out what was causing this until today when I cleared a TDC code for a misfire on #5 cylinder and then drove to the parts store with the OBD2 still connected watching for the I/M codes to clear. When I pulled into the Advance Auto parking lot the truck deiseled and a potential code for P0022 lit up. It never actually threw the TDC code, but finally I know what causes it and you did a great job showing how to easily fix it

I'm checking on a rough idling problem for my wife's Expedition. That's how I stumbled on your video. I AUTOMATICALLY subscribed to your channel because of your Royals hat!! Thanks for the great video and go Kansas City!!!

Inspect before pulling seals there are 2 different types of seals for these the 5.4 engines 07 and 08 have smaller seals without tabs and have no room to get tools by or even get the tab with screw through if you could loosen it . This means remove the valve cover .

Good video. Im in australia. The seals are $40$ each down here. Ouch. I worked out how to remove seals without wrecking them. Best to for me to use a t27 long torque screw driver just in case the tape fails. My luck. Tape would fail!! Vct solinoid are $300 each down here. Double Ouch.

Major asterisk on this one. This procedure only works on 2004-2006. 2007+ has a smaller hole and the seal is inside, so you MUST remove the valve covers to replace the VCT solenoid.

I just changed these on my 04 f150 with 5.4 .. very easy but a little nerve wracking. I ordered a 6” t-handle Torx and the only problem I encountered with it was it bumped up against the bracket for the power steering reservoir so I had to take it slow And reposition it every 3/4 revolution. Also one of the original screens had fallen out when I took the one off the passenger side , luckily it fell outside the motor!

4.6 & 5.4 didn’t hit the F150 until ‘97. Thank you for the info. This will help me with my 06 5.4L F150

I have a 2007 Mark LT, it would make sense to pull the valve covers before anything to look at the cam bearings. The timing chain tensioners had a bad seal design and they were plastic which in itself does not guarantee problems, once the seals blow out on the mounting surface, the oil to the top end starves, if only cam phaser noise occurs and not ruined cam bearings and cam, you got lucky, then remove the timing cover and replace the tensioners and guides with your choice of iron tensioners or plastic with a better seal, chains etc and yes the phaser solenoids and possibly the phasers themselves if they got beat up bad by now. Hopefully the guides are not broken yet with the parts in the oil pan as that has happened to people. Mine started making noise at a bit over 70k miles and started getting horrible gas mileage (was not great to begin with) and sometimes stumbles after a long run on the freeway when coming to a stop. Backing a boat into the yard is the worst time for this to happen as throttle is required to clear it up requiring even more careful skill than just backing the boat into the yard without hitting something. I have to say, the engine after solenoid change in the background still sounded like a diesel to me. These engines should be so quiet you might not know your engine is running if someone near you is making noise without looking at the tach or hitting the pedal while in gear. If you go in with the idea that the front cover and valve covers need to come off, then you will have peace of mind when it is over and you know all your timing components are in 100% top condition. If the cams and bearing surfaces ARE scored, new heads is all I can say unless metal shavings got circulated into the oil system then yank the engine. The cam chain tensioners leaking WILL starve the top end to some degree and the oil pressure light only tells you if the crankshaft is starving, not the top end so you will likely never see a warning about oil.

This method only works on 2004-2007 early build models, 2007 late build to 2014 you MUST remove the valve cover because the hole in the VC is a lot smaller...

Thanks. I just bought a 2006 f250 for $950. Having those same symptoms. Will try it.

I'm from Overland Park, I have a issue with my 1997 5.4 triton engine and saw this great idea, once I figure out how to diagnose it, before I attemt that. Thanks 👍😁

thx for your Video! just replaced the VCT's in my 06 F150 and she's good as new!

I just wanted to reach out and say 'Thank you' for posting this video. I had to replace both VCT Solenoids in my 2005 Expedition. This video made it easy (except for those damn seals...those were a bugger). Thanks Greg!

I'm thinking this is my problem on my 08 F150 but Rick below says that this method is not usable.

This is a good video but I have a 2007 and you have to take the valve covers off. The seals are different and the hole alignment is as well. you cant safely get a tool in to remove the vvt. It wasn't hard just took a little longer. I removed all the coil packs but thats it. I only lifted the valve cover enough to reome and install the old one.

I was already going to do the timing on my truck had the valve covers off figured id just change these real quick cause its right on top... dropped the bit down the front cover hahaha.

My dealer wants $675 to replace both solenoids...I told them what they can do with that...your vid is awesome....I was going to remove the valve covers, but I think I`ll try your way first..thx a lot.

Hey Greg. Thanks for posting this vid. I replaced my 5.4L VCT's and used video for reference. You saved me some money by helping me DIY.

I've got an '09 F150 with a 5.4L in it. The solenoids are the same part number but the seals are different. On yours it apears that you have more room on one side of the solenoid allowing you to be able to get a wrench in there. I do not. I don't think I can get to the screw on the solenoid without taking the valve covers off. I'm pissed. :(

thank u so much.. this is assuredly what is wrong with my 2010 f 150

I don’t understand the 261 👎 the man did a great job on this video 💯

i followed the instructions in the video but the hole in the valve cover was smaller than that shown in the video. the old VVT would not come out forcing the removal of the valve cover. what should have been made known up front is that there are 2 different sizes of holes in the valve cover. after i opened the replacement VVT i discovered there are 2 different size gaskets also.

This "diesel" sound is actually caused by the cam phaser's, typically the drivers side bank is worse, but on my 2004 F150 XLT 5.4L, I will be replacing both to avoid having to do this again for the other side. I may replace the VCT Solenoid too, knowing that Ford has made an upgraded part... Good video though, really helpful for people replacing the VCT.

Hi Greg---This is truly a good video. As clear as possible on the camera work. Hard to shoot down in that hole. I tackled this this morning. Started with passenger side. No problems. Driver side was doing ok except that little bolt acts like it was put on with an impact wrench. I have a 12" torx I am using. I wish I had a T handle long torx. So I had to leave it...put new seal on it. LOL... Do you have any ideas, any suggestions what you'd do in this circumstance? Surely don't want to break bolt off...just break it loose. Thanks a million if you get time with an idea. Jesus bless.

It isn't clear if this fixed the issue , He doesn't show the engine noise after the repair in the same way he did before repair

I really couldn't tell you because mine has sounded like this every since I bought it which was about 1yr ago. the solenoids stopped the loud chatter clicking sound. and I changed the fuel pressure sensor which stopped it from cutting off when backing up and rough idle. truck runs very smooth now but still sounds like a quiet diesel.

I had my 08 f150 at the shop for diagnosis n the dude says I need a new engine. He said that's why the p00022 and p00018 code is coming from. That's not true tho. That's just a quick way to get sells and to break my heart. Lol. You just fixed mine tho. Thanks

I just wanted to say thank you so much for this video I just bought a truck yesterday 2004 F150 5.4 3 valve my truck sounds exactly like the truck on this video I'm going to give it a shot because I was pretty upset when I heard the noise I'll keep you posted let you know if it works I'm ordering the parts today again thank you thank you thank you you rock!

Thank you for the breakdown, my local repair shop was doing this for me & I wanted to see what it consisted of.

I wanted to hear how the car sounds after you finish the job.

Awww man I was waiting to hear the engine run after the fix but you skipped that part. But anyways, great vid my 04' Lariat sounds like a Diesel engine at idle and my check engine light comes on after 30 mins of driving so now I know how to change the solenoids. Thanks alot👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

does a 01 expedition vin w have a vvt solenoid if so where is it located mines is a 4.6l v8 2valve

new hat....nice repair. i showed my gf this vid. now she knows why i buy masking tape when its on sale....

@Greg's Garage did this repair last long term? I've read they will be quiet for a while, then go right back to ticking because the problem is really low oil pressure, etc.

Good video, and your right that couldn't have gone any better.. the taping tools is a great tip..

Awesome, sounds like a gas burner now, love the 45 min jobs, sounds much better. That truck is going to be a 500K mile runner when your done...

This video was very helpful but on my 2009 I had to pull the valve cover, the hole where the solenoid goes is too small to pull the solenoid out.

Thank you. It is a lot eaiser seeing hands on than trying to read manuel

Won't work with a 2010 F150 V8 5.4L 3V Engine. The hole isn't big enough to get the VCT solenoid out. I had to take the valve covers off. :(

Good advice on taping tools together just wish I would have gotten it a couple weeks ago.

hi Greg, is the oil important for VCT? i have to use a 5w-20 in my ford escape 2005 with 146k miles o can I use 20w-50? thanks

07 and up you have to pull valve cover! That stupid seal is different. Also if you take valve cover off you can stuff rags in timing chain housing. Be sure to blow dirt off top before removing.

Wait a minute VCT solinoids are only on 2004 and up 3 valve engines with cam phasers. 94-2003 were 2 valve engines. The knock can be many things. The 04 + have cam phaser that knock.

That is awesome man, thank you so much for this video. I was thinking it was hard to fix this issue. So these older gunked up designs can cause the diesel sound most of us hear? I will be doing this fix real soon, considering how easy you made it look!

If you have a 07 - 09 5.4L f150 then you will need to remove the valve cover on the passenger side. The driver side you can follow his instructions.

Any advice on how to get it out of an 08 5.4 with the smaller hole without removing the valve cover? It's almost impossible to get my valve cover off but I need this changed and the ruck back on the road. Any ideas? Thank you.

Almost. I have an 08 and there's not actually enough clearance in the valve cover opening to get the solenoid out. "Missed it by that much."

Does the 2001 F150 (built 2000) 4.6 V8 have the VCT? Mine doesn't look like this. There is no plug etc like this in the top of the valve cover on either side.

I wish I had read all the comments before trying this on my 2010 and tearing up the seal! Has anyone found a work around instead of pulling the valve covers? Flexible shaft torque? This video should be pulled or the years amended.

Thanks for the heads up Greg. Sandys got a 06 Lincoln 4.6. I think as long as she keeps me and Ryan out of it. It will run alright.lol

cool video! about to do the same with my truck. you make my life easier. thanks..

The 2009 and 10’s are a completely different story as the valve covers have to come off to change these after the redesign.

Nice fix!! The Royals better bring it tonight or we are going to be REAL Nervous....

Great video! Did you have any codes? What lead you to replacing the solenoids instead of the cam phasers? From what I can tell, a failed phaser will generate a diesel or clacking/knocking sound at hot idle, similar to what you described.

Long Time No See From.........Glad your back

Great repair Greg! That is one more thing off the todo..list!!! CJ

I have seen several of these tutorials, all have said "just unscrew and pull it out." I found the hole is too small to remove the part through ,unless you break the valve cover- one man did. Also what kind of a mechanic only has one pair of pliers?

On the 2008 expedition 5.4L, the seal is much smaller diameter. I carved the valve cover to allow tool access and again to allow extracting the wider coil area along with the tool (a much thinner T-handle torx wrench). But then I had forgotten about the screw tab. The solenoid with it's tab will NOT pass through the hole. Valve cover removal is required. What a pisser that Ford made a design change that accomplishes nothing but making it more difficult to service. My dealer wouldn't touch the job without also replacing phasers and chain tensioners. They want $2600. I think I'll be removing the valve covers myself.

Hi, I am from Black Lake Saskatchewan Canada. I have same problem to my engine. This will help me a lot to fix it good.. but my motor is from 2008. I hope I don't break the seal. I found a solenoid from old motor that people took out a motor and left it outside. I will let you know when I replace it. Later.

Thanks for this awesome video I’ll be tackling this tomorow....

Greg, EXACTLY what I needed for my 2007 FX4. Thanks!

Yes, that's phaser rattle. New timing components and an oil pump. VCT solenoid will not fix the oil pressure issue.

I got a camshaft position sensor bank 1 engine light on replaced both of them already someone said I need to replace camshaft actuator

Was your video on a 4.6L or the larger V-8 and is there a difference because I have been told my 4.6 VCT solenoids are under the valve covers?

A client of mine has brought a 2006 F-150 that has thrown a bunch of codes...8 to be precise. I've replaced both cam sensors, tps, all 4 o2 sensors, fuel pump, and fuel lines. Truck will not stay running period. Has a bit of a knock at the beginning when it does decide to start, but will not stay running for any longer than 10-15 seconds and when it is running, it runs extremely rough. I'm wondering if the VCT solenoids would cause this?

My 05 Mercury cuts out, idol is off. I've recently replaced plugs and coils. Was going to replace injectors. I came across this video. Sounds like my 4.6 is in need of this repair.

were is it located on the 4.6l?

What year truck is that you're working on? Rwd or 4x4 ...thanks for sharing Greg.👍😀 OH and did the older truck (97) come with two vct solenoid ?

I have a 97 5.4L and I don't have one disable. Everyone shows the ones that are visible. Do I not have any? Would be nice to know with out doing research.

Thanks for the video and the info. I just bought the timing chain kit and an oil pump from advanced along w/ an oil pump because my oil pressure was almost nothing when idling hot and sounding like a Diesel...lol. I didn't pick up my parts yet and am sure I can return them. Should I replace them anyway or just try this first? Thanks again, peace!

Specificity would help. The part you showed for the solenoid seal, does not fit. Evidently I have to take off the valve cover. Went from a 1 week wait for parts, so I could take to an auto repair shop as was not a 1 hour project I as a none mechanic could do. Ford F150 2007 Lariat.

Thank you for this video I have the same problem I replace o2, censors and drove the tuck hrs later check engine light came on and it was telling me the o2 again Truck would turn off after it worm up and it sounded like a diesel I just wanted to say that you for a good video

Good video. But what side would be bank 1?

Good fix man !!

What happens if the screw fall down inside the engine???

Hi, you should correct the heading. VCT started in 2004, not 1994. Also, thanks for the good video.

Did not work on my 2009. Solenoid will not come out without removing the valve cover!

Thanks for this video. Does the notch on that ring at the top move? My notch is not on the same side as the bolt. Mine is on the left top side when looking at it at the same direction. I have the 5.4L on an 09 expedition. Is there any reason why that would be different?

If your truck is an 07 or newer this work work. You HAVE to remove the Rocker covers to remove the VCT. I saw your video and was pumped to get get going, only to find out that it wont work with my 07 5.4.

Alguien sabe por que la f150 2003 no tiene el selenoyde vct oh en que parte lo tiene y oh talvez no lo yeba agradesco informacion

Good show I learned lol

My truck 2008 shows the code for the VCT on driver side, the truck sounds and feel like no power enough, slow when you press the gas, is normal with this fails?

this does not work for 2007 and up! thanks for video because even though I had to remove the valve covers this fixed my problem!!! thanks but valve cover comes off on 2007 f150 and is a big job!!!

Hello! I have an F-150 99 and my truck even when it is off, it wants to turn on without no key and it is running my battery down, what could be the problem. Another thing is when i boost it up and while is on it starts like to turn on and it acts like when you think that the vehicle is off and you turn the key again while it is on, you hear that noise with the starter. It kind of feels like my truck is Possessed! Please help!

Is there any torque spec on the bolt? Also will the bolt fall off the solenoid while removing it? Cause you to have to take the whole cover off?

thanks.....first time viewer,,,,bob