2001 Ford F150 ABS Pump & Module Replacement (Spongy Sinking Brake Pedal Fix) 

This has been one of the best, clearest, easy to follow videos I have ever watched. Thanks, K.

I'm a retired Ford, Lincoln-Mercury service manager. This video is one of the best training films I have ever seen on replacing an ABS module. Thank you very much for sharing it with us. Logan R. Sumstine

Quick tip: Before disconnecting the brake lines put a bar or something on the brake pedal holding it down a couple inches, that'll lock the fluid in the master so it doesn't drain while you're working on other stuff.

Just want to say thank you buddy. I took my truck to mechanic they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it they changed the master cylinder twice thinking that was the problem. And after paying for that service twice I found this video qnd did it myself it fixed my problem.

The question asked and answered several times - any re-programming necessary? Absolutely not, the ABS module is "plug and play". We'd been without ABS for a couple of years, replacing sensors and dreading replacement of the module. Everywhere we looked seemed to suggest module may need some kind of programming to match the main computer. Thanks to Insane Oil and commenters for settling this issue. INSTANT gratification when installed - ABS light out!

To just reiterate a comment I was fortunate enough to see before doing this : depress your brake pedal about half way before doing this to avoid having your master cylinder drain! Great video, shows you everything you need to know. I'll add my insight as I've just swapped out my module and pump : I paid about $95 for my pump/module from Pull-a-Part. Seems a bit expensive considering what you can get a reman module for online, but it does come with a 30 day warranty which I WILL be using. Which is my next point even if it applies to one person : before pulling anything apart, take your new module and hook it to the power cable in your truck - If I'd done that first, I'd have known the module I pulled had a stuck open pump - running at all times unless you pull the relay or battery line. Now that's what you get sometimes when pulling a part from a junkyard - that's fine. My next point : Well I'll just use regular wrenches why not? WRONG - I didn't even strip a bolt, just boogered one. Well that boogered bolt turned this into torture. Turning a bolt 1/64 at a time in such a cramped space made this WAY harder than it should have been.. That said, I got it done, have much better brakes, and my abs light is off

Two awesome videos in one week! Thank you and Happy New Year!

Very well done explanation! Straight to the point immediately. That is how a professional would do it. I am 71 years old and don't like crawling under my truck chasing brake lines. I am looking for a diagram or video on the web that explains where each of those brake lines come from and proceed to on a 2002 F150.

Awesome video. Very clear explanation. Graphics to explain components and location is perfect.

Thanks for the great video, it helped me replace the ABS pump on my 08 Saab 93.

First of all,great video. On the other hand,did you have to reprogram the ABS,after the installation,even if it’s a used part ? And the two ports that are used to test for the malfunction of the pump,does every single ABS for different makes and models have those ports,too? My 2014 Tundra brake,has that symptom ,thanks...

Great video! Thank you! I replaced my abs on an 04 F350 with a used one and it's better, but traded one issue for another. Question: is the aluminum valve block prone to failure? Or just the control module?

I wish all RU-vidrs were this good.

Great job 👍🏼

brilliant presentation .. you covered every step.. nice comment below about pressing the brake pedal to close the reservoir feed .

Would this video be instructive for a 2001 F350 ABS replacement? Can’t find a video for that tuck on this topic.

I need to replace this unit on my Ford explorer. However, I am very interested in how you get that green highlight on your video. What video editing software did you use?

Wonderfull mr. I have One Suzuki Liana. When i make breck and when the car is slow then is make a sound like for eksempel qer..qer..qer. a Lot of mekanik Saying that is from breck ring tone!but i Chuck all the ring tone is New and there is Nothing is brokken. Is this bez of this??? Like u chanched? Thanks

Best video on RU-vid thank you sir ,👍

Well explained along with real works on it.Bingo!!!!

Good video, I enjoyed the fact that you highlighted each component, and thought to get part from scrapyard.

Great video. Thanks! When you bleed the ABS module, do you just bleed the top 3 connections to the wheels or the bottom 2 to the master cylinder as well?

Thank you for this well done video. I've trying to find info on those ports for a few years. Have searched the internet over and over and have never found anything until now ! I have been slowly loosing fluid and it's always looked to me like it's coming out the one you show bad (moving the screw driver) . The dust cap has been gone on it for while , probably from fluid leaking through it ! ABS still works, although I don't like it anyway. But what the heck is that port for ? Obviously gonna have to replace the whole unit (bone yard here I come) . Have thought about getting rid of the ABS all together. Any thoughts on that ?

What size fitting is it that holds the brake line. I am unable to find replacements

Awesome video. You define every step. Any tips for How to check the ABS on a 2005 ford f150? 🤔

Great video!

Where can i buy dust boots ? One fell off and im leaking alot of break fluid through it

A masterfully instruction video.thank you

Wow, this video was well explain, congratulation guys. My name is (sam) from DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.

Speaking how you do helps a lot 👍🏼🤷‍♂️. Ty sir

Great video. I recently replaced all 4 rotors, calipers, pads and lines. Now I have a sinking pedal. Bled LOTS of brake fluid but the pedal still sank. Bled the ABS and still had the problem. Tried a new master cylinder but that didn't help. After watching your video I replaced the ABS pump with a used pump. I still have problem. Do I need to bleed the the lower lines from the master cylinder to the ABS? If not, any other ideas? This is crushing my spirit.

I am having this same problem and did not know if because I take it easy when I drive. During the annual inspection, they found the pedal sinks if you stand on the brake. In normal driving the truck stops just fine. Did the pedal become very firm after the repair?

And after, you went around and bled each caliper at each wheel as well? I'm asking because if I go this far, I may just do the brakes as part of it.

Excellent video! Thank you

@Insane Oil i just acquired a new to me 2000 F150 XLT and it has a very interesting issue. The battery was dead so i got a brand new one. As soon as I connected the battery, engine off key out, there is a random clicking noise, sounds like a relay but i checked the engine bay relays and it doesn't come from there. Upon closer listening, it sounds like the clicking is coming from either somewhere under the heater controls closer to floor or middle to driver side low part of the engine. I have been touching items to feel for vibration and i found that one of the lines that goes from the master cylinder to the abs module is vibrating every time the clicking happens. Remember this is key off engine off. Sometimes it happens after driving and shutting the vehicle off for a while. The battery went dead a few times I'm assuming this is the cause. When driving it seems to stop normally but i will have to do your slow pedal test soon. Any thoughts?

Pretty sure I have a leak from the test ports on mine unless I’m just missing it leak from one of the lines. Also, will it need programmed at all once replaced, or is it just a slap it in and go kinda of deal?

Gracias por la buena información compañero es de gran ayuda

Great video! Great content as well as clear and concise instruction.

Very professional video.

I just bought a 2000 f150 & I was checking the fuses under hood & the one for the the abs was missing so I put one & pump or module started making noise,so I removed it,brakes work good.will it be OK?

Hi, Would a ABS module and the proceedure be the same on a 2007 Ford f-150??? Thanks

I have a doubt...my windstar 02 has the abs and brake lights on but I made the test with the thin screwdriver and it didn't move...so what can it be then? I already bought a used module...what should I have to check?

Hey friend one question does that module need to be reprogrammed after you teplace it or the computer will relearn it without any problem

شرح تفصيلي راقي شكرا لك

i'm just about to replace only 1 line the front driver side. do i have to bleed that port i open up from the pump?. or could i just remove the line and install the new one.

pedal jack the brake pedal about 1/2 way down when doing anything to the hydraulic part of brakes, holds the fluid, makes it much easier to bleed,. a time or two i didn't even have to bleed the brakes when replacing wheel cylinders. make sure to pull the brake light fuse or unhook the switch. it also saves the rubber brake hoses from damage by using vice grips. my Dad taught me that trick years ago. sure do miss him!!

Had the exact same symptom wit a 2008 ford escape , brake bleed did nothing. My son suggested forcing the abs to function ,took it somewhere safe and locked up the breaks a couple times. The soft pedal is no longer . I have no idea where the air could have gone but it's been fine for weeks now.

Did the new ABS module you installed need to be programmed?

Do you conduct the test of the abs pump with the engine running or off?

thank You.

im doing mine on a malibu maxx, does the ABS modeule has to be the same part number? becuase i bought one everthing is the same just the part numer is different.

Real good video

How do you keep your brake fluid reservoir so clean/clear?

Great chanel ! Thanks

really good video here

What a genius this is exactly the problem I'm having

Hi... does the engine have to be running to do the screwdriver way to test the ABS ?

Does the engine have to be running for this test, or is it strictly mechanical ?

I'm seeing "flare nut" wrenches. Is that the right kind? It looks the same.

Thank you

Do I need to reprogram the computer are I don’t have to do anything after replacing it

It's a great vedeo 👌 I think is a similar like on FORD excursión 🤔

Was your ABS making a grinding noise or did you feel the vibrating noise when you put your hand on it before you replaced it? Or was the ABS light on your dashboard? I have a 2000 ford expedition 4.6L V8 Triton XLT and my ABS light came on and my ABS module is making a grinding noise and when I put my hand on top of the module I felt the vibrating noise coming from it. Does that mean it's my ABS module and ABS pump both need replacing? As a female diy mechanic that's new to doing my own repairs. The only way to stop that grinding noise is I have to remove the 50 amp fuse. By the way, my brakes are fine, no issues with them.

i have 2004 F250 5.4L 4x4 the abs control module make a grinding noise.. do I need to replace the module with the pump?

What if screw driver doesn’t move when you do the test?? Is it the module itself??

Our problem sound like your here. I want to try and bleed this pump first and see what happens. Brakes were good and one day had soft pedal intermittently

My pump is leaking out of one of the two cylinders. No abs light. Should I only get a pump? Or pump and module? I plan to go the salvage yard route.

I own a 2001 f150 lightning ! There’s no brake fluid running to my front right caliper. I check all my lines. When I disconnected the front right caliper brake line from the abs pump and hit the brake. No fluid came out! However it did come out from the rest of the brake lines. And the master cylinder works fine!! I’m stuck :/ not sure what’s wrong. Maybe the module?

How did you find it was the abs and not rhe master cylinder?

Which lines go where? I bought a 99 F150 that someone replaced the lines on. I believe they didn't plumb it right as I have good pedal feel, but no brakes. (As in no fluid going to the wheels)

Great 👍

Cool

My pump just started running even when the truck is turned off abs light is on in my 2001 f150

mine was left font wheel sensor. i went to oreillys and they pulled the code snd it showed left feknt wheel speed sensor. $21 on amazon.

I have f150 2003 and the part you change is hot and make a noise. When the truck is off

I changed all that part for one that I bought at the junkyard and now that I installed it I have the abs on, what do I do to turn it off?

My 2002 S10 has basically the same pump and it failed the same exact way. Pedal sinking, same test port moved with screwdriver in hole. With I had watched this video before I changed the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and calipers....

I loved the video Olson :)

I just pulled the fuse on my 2001 F 250 ABS. It was a 60 amp fuse. I can’t figure out why because no fuse diagram I can find shows a 60 amp in that position. Once I pulled it problem solved. I can drive without ABS. If you can’t maybe you shouldn’t be driving?

What socket size were the mounting bolts?

Does the part number needs to be the same?

Bad wheel sensor on mine. Went to oreillys and they pulled the code. Amazon $21.

Is this a 2 wheel or 4?

What’s great Fuckn video. Thank you!

did you have to take it to ford to clear any warnings when you finished? I have to replace my abs pump and module but its sounding like only the dealership can actually clear the codes and bleed the lines with their "computer" i feel like im being rinsed

Don't forget to have it flashed when replacing one of these

What is the purpose of those ports?

I have this model and is leaking brake fluid a bottle a day

All I want to say is DUST! BOOT!

You don't have to reprogram the module?

Man I am having a extremly frustrating time with my 2003 F350 4x4 6.0L power stroke I just got. When i got it there where no lights on or codes on the cluster. Well the brake rotor on the passenger side front would shimmy badly when i pressed the brakes as well as pull to the right real bad, so I knew I needed to do a brake job on my truck. So pulled it into my shop and proceeded to tear down my brakes on each wheel to figure out what all i was gonna need to get it done. Turns out I needed the front passenger side rotor which i just had turned at part store and it needed shoes all the way around as well as a new rear driver side caliper. Well at that moment in time I didnt have the funds to go out and by all that so the bad caliper I just left it off and blocked of the brake line to that side woth a 7/16 plug. Well I drove it like that the rest of the week and just about 2 days ago it just all of a sudden looses complete pedal. And my ABS Light comes and goes off and on, never stays on. So I went and finally bought what all i needed to get it fixed and bleed all the brake calipers all the way around and it still does the same thing as it did before I replaced all that. What do u think my problem is? Oh and the brakes still only seem to be grabing on the passenger side like before. But when I bleed the calipers im getting brake fluid, so I'm at a loss and confused unfortunately. Any tips or tricks that may help me out? Anybody?

👍👍🤝

Pop the hood, glad you told me that, come on!

If replace my pump and module do I need to run a scan tool to reset module ? I now have a break light on.

That engine looks like it's straight off the factory floor

He is the best & 👁️mean the best if u can't follow what he said something is wrong with. U he broke this thing down like ah' 12 gauge shotgun & he broke it down like S-Laxs. Ah' 2yr old can understand this and I appreciate him very much he is Da'💩

No ABS light on

Pro-tip, put video on 2x speed

Question: Does the vehicle need to be running to test if the ABS pump has failed, or will the cylinder still react the same way with the car off.

The car has to be on with the test of putting something in the pump