It's amazing how fast the cowl comes off once you've done it 5 or 6 times. my first time, it was intimidating and took about an hour. Now, it's "nuthin' but a thang" and takes about 15 minutes. Good video.
I've watch these videos over and over and still I don't see how you guys remember where everything goes. and I noticed a bolt not tightened in my car that just had engine put in and I noticed all the nuts on the floor of mechanic shops. yeah forgot to put back. I just really like those magnet bowls . very handy.
i had same problem with my wifes van and your video made it so much easier for me to change the by-pass tube thanks this whas very helpful...GREAT VIDEO..PROPS FOR THE PERSON HELPING U FILM THIS...
Thanks for the helpful video. I had the same leak, same spot and my tube was stuck worse than yours. Went online to see if there was a special way to get it off without breaking something else. Thanks again.
Thanks man! I just finished this job. Did a lot of extra stuff while in there since I was already "deep in the valley." The engineer that decided to have the water pump removal and replacement require lifting the engine should have to repeat said procedure at least a dozen times in the southern U.S. heat and humidity. What a pain! Anyway, along with watching this and your other video a few times everything was predictable and, aside from poor sideways-engine installation and lack of design department forethought, it was a snap.
Great video..thanks! After a few days of going nuts over a coolant leak I finally located pinhole sized stream coming from the crossover/bypass tube. Off to the Ford dealer for parts on Monday!
► Well, at least I now know what I'm practically up against to lead me to the manifold problem giving me the MIL/CEL. Thank you for posting this! I have yet to fully explore my Windstar entirely.
Had the same problem. Bought the kit replaced the isolator bolts, that piece in the video that was cracked, and also replaced the valve cover which was included. Also replaced the spark plugs. Cleared up codes, stopped antifreeze leak and ran great. Now about 30,000 miles or so later I'm getting an antifreeze leak again but no check engine light so far. I better investigate before problem gets worse
This was for the water by-pass tube that was leaking. Did not replaced the gaskets still on the originals with no leaks. Next month or so I will post another video, the van is using a lot of oil replacing the pvc did not help, i've read on automotiveforums that replacing the lower intake gaskets will do the trick. so thats next for me.
I just found three tiny pinhole leaks in mine, close together, just in front of a tee on the horizontal steel tube by power steering pump, coming out of the water pump. I was able to take a piece of 5/8 rubber hose about 15mm long, cut it and put it over the pinholes, then put on a hose clamp and tighten. Appears to be holding well. Don't know how there could be pinholes but appear to be corrosion, probably in a seam not welded well. If more leaks occur I'll just replace it. This van has many poor cost reductions from the older Windstar 95-98. Never had any problems on my 95 but this 2003 is full of them. Luckily I can fix myself.
A little shaky on the camera work, but thanks for posting the video. You can tell the mechanic is very good and very familiar with Fords. It pisses me off that Ford makes all this stuff to purposely fail at 100K miles or 8 years. Then charges over $100 for a replacement hose knowing you need to go to them for their proprietary hose.
45+yrs experience as a technician in a brick n mortar shop , u went to for in open iij ng this up for the repair , u didn't have to take the wiper assembly out like you did that alone would have saved u a good 45 minutes to a hour ...... u and those vise grips while I use them also they have there place pulling off hoses to reuse isn't one of them hose pliers or cure jaw pliers are more suited to that hose removal tast . While you had it down like you did you should have went ahead and replaced your spark plugs next to the firewall , and all hoses just to be safe , and replaced the bolts and gaskets should have been replaced on upper intake plenum...... ....... can't beat experience when it comes to doing a technical job .....
yeah dont do what I did with mine. Replaced the alternator (3rd time) and instead of disconnecting the battery I saved time. I didn't. Took the power wire off the alt and let it drop where it may, right on the fuel rail. Poof, lost my eyelashes. Should have let it burn but I was right next to an extinguisher. 650.00 in parts.
I used J B Kwik Weld on mine today and it worked great. Just make sure you sand it really well and put it right around the tube to make sure there is a good hold.
This is in respond to the first post.Now the check engine light came on again. I replaced the front and rear engine sensors light went out. But after a while, light is on again.After watching some of these videos I might have found the answer.I will check those points and see what I come up with.
was your coolant pooring out at near the temp sensor there making it look like it was the temp sensor leaking? if so this is what mine is doing so i think thi s week will replace that tube and do a gasket replace on the valve cover , i have a 02 windstar limited edition which means its loaded with every concievable thing that ford could think of in 02
I have a 2003 Fordwindstar and when it used to rain it used to misfired. Drove it like that for a year.Cause if I bring to the Mechanic they would charge me an arm and a leg.Eventually, I found out what it was.It was a spark plug wire causing the problem.As you face the engine, the spark plug wire to the right that was rubbing against the valve cover and it wore the rubber out. Put new ones in and problem gone.
had the rain problem , so I resealed the wiper cowlings section with a sealer goop and used dielectric gel on the ignition assy and the wires, straight into the coil inserts and no prob through all winter and spring with misfires
I sprayed a rubberized spray paint on the bottom portion of the cowl and used silicone on all the plastic screw snap clips a and sprayed all wires and ignition wires with wire dryer to water proof
mine to was leaking just at the pipette that goes to the reservior i cut it offf just behind the small pipe and fixid it witk short length of half inch copper pipe one elbow for the moulded piece in back one t one reducer to three eight pipe short piece of 3/8 and hose clamps must be able to solder
Clean your EGR ports real carefully and replace the isolator bolt grommets with the new green ones. The codes will then go away. New grommets are FelPro part # ES72204 (the stock picture on some web sites is wrong for some reason but it is the correct part.)
I have the same van. I am getting error 171 and 174. I know its not the sensors, already replaced those. What were your syptoms? I thought I would have to reseal also...is that the case?
You make it look so easy. Question if you have time to answer. Or anyone. the hose that is right beside the thermostat, not goes to the thermostat, but is just behind it, and level with it, that has a silver nut like, with the webbed hose, how do you get that off without breaking it?
dont have to take the cowl off on the windstars, just the freestars. just gotta get the wind tunnels to pop down out of the top clam from the inside then wiggle the top clam out. we sell those quite often including the freestars at the dealership i work for. just did intake manifold gaskets on a 2000 freestar 3.8 today. the nylon bushings on the control arms were bad and one was missing for quite sometime. they are 8 dollars each at the dealership today. we needed 3 for 24 bucks plus tax. bunch of shit. plus you have to do the manifold gaskets top to bottom in on those around 100k miles with the tune up. the intake manifold gaskets on those goes to trash about that time trust me ive done quite a few of em, takes about 5 hours top to bottom. and they are common to throw the lean or rich codes as well. ford slapped the cheapest trash in there they could find
Jake Martin I think you meant a 2000 windstar, the freestar came out in 2004 & it had a 3.9L. removing the cowl just makes it easier to get to the bolts & hoses in the back.
pjm829 the freestars came out in 2004 yes, but they are the same damn thing. except you have to pull the cowl. and removing the cowl means more time taking it apart and putting it back together. that is what ford wants, hell thats what every dealer wants. they will sit around and think of ways to make shit harder to work on. thats why i stay away from all of it
Jake Martin Yeah, I probably won't buy another Ford after they refused to cover my rear axle repair & then the next year they came out with the recall and had to give me a rental for 4 months. I do think Ford & GM have learned the hard way. It's cheaper to fix it right away instead of paying more later plus all the lawsuits.
pjm829 doesn't really matter what brand vehicle you have anymore, they are all slapping cheap trash in them just to get it down the road 100k miles. better of sticking with something older and restoring it yourself.
The best named brand gasket set i found is : VICTOR REINZIt has everything needed & some a good place to find them is at www.RockAuto.com for like $25.00 a set , You can also find a seller on ebay thats good aimsautosupply Part #VICTOR REINZ MS16294 $48.59 for upper and lower , from what i see it fits 1999 to 2003 Ford winstar 3.8L V6
