This is SO EASY~! Good lord. I was about to pay a shop like $600 for this. Screw that. Doing it myself in 3 minutes. Edit: Side note, do it with a low or almost empty tank if possible, or buy some fuel line clamps to prevent just a lake of fuel when you remove the line. Also, loosening the pump lock ring was a task. It was tightened about 3 full rotations tight beyond the pink markings and took a long time to hammer loose. There are tools you can rent from places like Autozone that make this dramatically easier, but I didn't know that until after the fact. My 2011 has a gasket under the lock ring too, so I'm not really sure why this needs to be so freaking tight. Maybe mine was just extra stubborn due to not being changed or opened for 150,000 miles and lots of crud.
Yep low tank is the way you saw what happens with a full tank lol and that tool doesn't fit since the tank is recessed. Works on the odyssey like I showed in the odyssey video.
Jason, my garage said the fuel pump should cost around....... Please take a seat..... Drum roll..... € 3000,= only the pump !!!!!!!!!!! After seeing this video of replacing the fuel pump for a new one. I seriously doubt the honesty of this garage..
shops vary by region, age of parts and accessibility/ship fees, whether or not they are OEM or factory replacement brands, ease of accessibility to said part - meaning how much work do they need to do extra just to retrieve the bad part and replace (not all customers are as clean as others), and the major factor is simply more to do with dealing with harmful chemicals directly. Gasoline is a hazardous material and they're going straight into a gas tank on a vehicle they haven't been in control of. So there may be a risk fee (under different terminology maybe) for shops especially that aren't commercial franchises. This can obviously be reduced if the customer is polite and leaves the tank minimal prior to the job. But if you were to add up the cost of an OEM part, labor, and harmful chemical waste disposal fees, 600 sounds about right. Bigger shops will typically push for more and add bogus unnecessary charges to that. That's why I prefer buy the parts and do it myself if I have the tools and garage space. If I ever use a shop, I still buy the part of my choosing and leave it in the vehicle with the part as easily accessible as possible. (Remove trim, contain wires/hoses etc. Anything to make the job shorter for them. And take photos in advance lol)🤙@@jonobrannan7406
@@MrRangerZr1 you might be interested, I switched mine yesterday. It had been in a wreck and I repaired it, almost done. The fuel gauge kept reading almost empty no matter if I put 5 gallons in it. When I took the unit apart the fuel tank was in 2 parts and the bottom was floating in the gas! The collision had broken the plastic mounts those rods attach to!
Did you just buy the fuel pump assembly and have everything included or did you have to buy the fuel pump assembly, the regulator assembly, and then the filter assembly all separate? I just bought the filter assembly and the regulator assembly, but it looks like the fuel pump assembly is for sale for a few dollars more on the Honda parts now website. If it includes everything(fuel filter, lid, regulator, plunger, fuel pump, etc) I'm going to return the regulator and filter assembly and just replace the whole thing
Are all the back driver side seats the same? In another video a guy removed the entire seat with his first generation crv. Your way is way easier. I’ll see when I look at mine.
I have a 2010 CRV with around 170,000 km (105,000 miles) on it. It's working fine but would it be necessary to replace the fuel pump after that much distance? Do fuel pumps "wear out?"
Do 2.4L & 2.0L fuel pump interchangeable? I got issue with my 2010 2.4L CRV in which the fuel pump socket is burned. It has 17708-SWA-003 sticker on it which is the same as the one in your video but my local repair shop got me a fuel pump with 17708-SWC-Y01-M1 sticker on it but when i search on google it shows that this is a part for 2.0L CRV. Will this be a problem?
I have a 2010 crv and it’s dropping rpm’s, hesitating, and often sounds like it’s going to stall out. It has 138k on it and I suspect the fuel filter. Can you explain is it better to replace the whole pump or can you buy just the filter and replace that just as easy? Unfortunately my gas tank is full right now too. AZ app doesn’t show a fuel filter for sale which I thought odd too. Any input greatly appreciated
@@MrRangerZr1 I replaced the fuel filter 2 days ago and that didn’t fix it. Finally a code CEL came on PO304 misfire cylinder 4. I was overdue for new plugs cuz they were due at 105k so I decided I’ll do that first and to my surprise it totally fixed it! Needed plugs anyway and that was the problem. Weird cuz I never get lucky like that. At least the fuel filter is new now too and should be good for another 100k. Thanks for the response. There’s not much info on changing just the filter on those and they’re listed as a “non serviceable part” which isn’t true at all. You have to search fuel strainer not filter.
Great video! Question I have someone coming tomorrow to change mine out as he stated my fuel pump is bad. However he told me to just buy the actual pump and not the assembly but I’m nervous cause everything I read showed replacing the whole assembly. Thanks to your video I was able to get to mine and then found how to remove the old pump from the assembly and put the new one in but my car still wouldn’t start. I’m so nervous bc if this doesn’t fix it I am out of a car. Any insight as to why it still wouldn’t start after changing the pump? I did order an assembly which should be here tomorrow as well just in case but do you think the whole thing needs replaced since it wouldn’t start after changing the pump? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Also what is the significance of taking the fuse for the pump out? That was the only thing I didn’t do cause I couldn’t get it to come out. Could that be the issue of it not starting after replacing the pump? Does it reset it? Sorry for all the questions. I’m desperate. Lol
Great video but I have some questions in regard to my wife's 2009 CRV with 143,000 miles. I noticed a long time ago maybe a year or two ago that the car seemed to crank over a little longer before starting than it should but always started till a couple few weeks ago when it would not turn over but dummy lights would come on, then try again nothing then again and would start but weak. Then at other times start fine then do it again. I had the battery tested and was a little weak so I replaced but that obviously wasn't it so I took it to my mechanic and he said the starter needed replacing so did that. We are giving this car to my son who is moving out of state so we replaced spark plugs as well, but the slow to start issue is still there but it always does start. A friend at work said I should replace the fuel pump so I picked up a new one and will replace. I was wondering if you had any insight into the problem of the slow to start and does this fuel pump have a strainer? I replaced mine on my 2001 f150 and remember replacing the strainer. Thanks for your help.
This is exactly what mine does and I want to figure out what it is . Do you have an update if you changed the fuel pressure regulator . I'm going to change my pump all together just want to make sure I'll get the result I'm wanting thanks .
Hello sir i had exactly the same year and model of the car you are fixing but when i click on the fuel pump on amazon it shows as silver not a plastic beige color! Is the pump need to be inserted on the old pump? How do you crank the car without fully starting the car to ON?
It turns yellowish due to age. The pump is in the basket. I would recommend changing the entire assembly as the original pump gets brittle and you get everything new like the regulator with the new assembly.
My car suddenly petrol leaking underneath car. Coincidentally someone smelled petrol and checked then found the leaking. At the time I am going toilet and let all my family in the car. Luckily no one smoke near to my car at the time. When sent to Honda service center, they found the fuel pump filter not proper installed.
@@MrRangerZr1 thanks for the info, my honda crv shakes like mad when it drives around 30-50 mph and always when the rpm is 1400-1800 . some guy said it was the fuel filter that has condensation or water in it that makes the car go apeS**t, had 4 mechanics look at the car and all tried it but cant find the problem so im left with the fuel filter being the only problem
My garage said the fuel pump should cost around....... Please take a seat..... Drum roll..... € 3000,= only the pump !!!!!!!!!!! After seeing this video of replacing the fuel pump for a new one. I seriously doubt the honesty of this garage...
@@bittyburns6076 it's in the fuel pump assembly (white basket) you need to disassembly it to change the filter or pump. Why do you need to change the fuel filter or pump? Pumps on these last forever.
@@MrRangerZr1 it’s starting but goes off not even seconds later. I’ve replaced my mass air filter , replacing my whole dash (the thing that tells how much gas and speedometer all that) , because none of my dash lights are coming on, only my radio but replacing tomorrow and my last option is the fuel pump I’m thinking that’s my issue.
