I LOVED this - especially the details and sizes of fasteners. Seemed like you are a professional technician? Too many people that have no idea what they are doing make RU-vid Videos.
Yeah a lot of the stuff I do is just real quick during the actual repair, no prep or video editing. My primary focus is fixing the car but if the video helps someone prepare to do the job, that's the point.
Thank you so much! You saved me probably about a grand in labor! You're right, it is a pain in the butt. I couldn't get anything in the hole in the tensioner pulley I had to take a large adjustable wrench to the square bit on the top. Wonderful instruction sir!
--- a few notes on this job: it isn't easy or fun, clearances are at a minimum or non-existent ( this was intentional on the part of Ford ) 1: remove the upper radiator hose BEFORE taking out the fan - this will make your life so much better from that point on - disconnect from the radiator and lay it back over toward where you have already removed the airbox - about a half-gallon of fluid will be lost: this is a small price for the blood you will lose if you skip this step 2: move the reservoir - two bolts to the inner fender and one to the washer reservoir disconnect the small return hose and lay reservoir over the engine ( it will pass under the a/c line ) 3; remove the right front wheel and inner fender completely - don't let the cat play with the quick connects or screws ( trust me on this ) 4: remove the two bolts holding the windshield washer reservoir ( front one is hidden - easy to remove by feel - use a deepset 10MM ) - push reservoir toward fender as far as it will move 5: when removing the fan belt, you will discover the tensioner is too close to the frame to fit either a 3/8 ratchet or a pull handle to access the hole in the arm ( this was also intentional from the Ford 'engineers' - there are a couple of ways to address this: A: buy a special tool designed to fit in the tight spacing, B: remove the front engine mount and jack the front of the engine up about an inch so the square hole is above the frame rail, or C: outwit the engineers by using an open end 1 1/8 wrench over square tab at the top of the tensioner arm - place the wrench over the tab and pull toward the front of the car ( if working alone, use a combination wrench and tie it with a bit of rope to the front ( there is a convenient hole right there ) 6: once the belt is off, remove the tensioner - three 8MM bolts ; an offset boxend wrench is good to have, but a regular combo ( use closed end ) works fine - the gained working room is worth your firstborn 7: take the upper nut from the alternator , loosen the lower bolt, then go back and remove the upper stud ( uses a 7MM ) 8: remove the lower bolt - it will come out completely since the alternator can be wiggled 9: remove the alternator 10: replace the stud - hang the alternator from the stud when putting things back - there is room to slide the alternator over the stud and down onto the lower mount 11: assemble in reverse 12: call Ford and threaten their engineering department
Nice explanation. BTW your belt has cracks in it, if your doing this you might as well replace the belt if it's showing wear and has cracks. Just a heads up, the alternator went out on our 08 edge, confirmed by a red battery warning in dash and no cranking power, I jumpstarted and then disconnected the battery, car died instantly. I took the battery home and charged it up fully overnight, I was then able to drive the car one hour home to my garage. The battery sign was illuminated the whole way but if you keep electrical draw to a minimum, no fan, radio, lights etc. you can drive quite a ways on battery only. My battery showed 62% when I got it home, not great for the battery but sometimes you have to do it.
I can't disagree. This was a friend calling for a favor so I did not get a chance to do an inspection first and by the time I got there to slam it out i wasn't going to go back to parts store. Learn from my mistake, get the belt just in case. Not horrible to change after the fact though
Thanks. Getting ready to help do this. Will print (Hit the 3 dots (...) on the bottom right below the vid and choose Transcript, then hit the 3 vertical box above that window to toggle Timestamps off, and select and copy and paste transcript to print (maybe make paragraphs).
It would be the labor time called out in service information multiplied by hourly rate. Here in socal, shops are $125 and hour to $200 plus at dealers per hour. Probably 2-3 hours labor.
