I like your trouble shooting method using compressed air to find leaks. But without seeing clutch movement I think that this procedure should include gauges on and comp on to see first of all if comp is trying to press up system and pumping. Bottom line is this will save folks money 💰. It's a great diy. Thanks.
For me a diyer this idea of compressed air as a diagnostic tool is great , and if it's put under vacume before filling ... On a system that's been empty of refrigerant... the chances of having any negative effect must be next to 0 ! Great video !
I love the VW/Audi Air Con PID's. Those Pressure Sensors sure are problematic for leaks and sensor failure. I replaced 4 last summer and always have 1 in stock. Nice work 👍
Nice video ! I'm going to screen grab those compressor codes lol as we work on a lot of Vag cars and always wondered what the numbers meant . Used compressed air for several years and never had a problem . It's a very efficient and cost free way to troubleshoot a/c
Man they give you a ton of data pertaining to the AC compressor operation in there! I'm glad you cleared up what that "3" digit meant in the compressor status data PID, totally didn't know that before! Thanks for bringing us all this fine footage on these euro's man, I always learn something new.
You can take a look if you can see oil residue and there is you leak/s or hear also if its not a small leak, anyway the soapy water is what almost everyone use so great video and diagnose.
Nice work Tom on the thought process of going through the diagnostics. And great info on the scanner to show the a/c pids! One tip that I've used on locating leaks is to use an ultrasonic leak detector which works very well.
Awesome job Sir! I've seen Paul use this method but you performed it very efficiently and showed a perfect example. Well done. I'm planning on taking my first stab at servicing my own A/C system this summer and this will definitely help. Thanks Tom!
Good work i liked all your video , i learned many thing from you thank you and keep going. you also can use an old refrigerant compressor for compressing and evacuation of ac circuit this compressor can comperes for about 300 psi
Guys, I want to thank you for sharing all this information. This is my case. I have a 2002 Beetle. When I turn on the AC on the fan position I could see the AC light turn on and can feel the compressor kicking in. BUT, when I move the position of the button to 1, 2, 3, or 4 the AC light shuts off and the air is fan air and not cold air. I did this 1. Check the battery fuses (they are not melted) and change the position on them to make sure they were ok. 2. Bought a Fan Control Module and changed it. I still have the exact same situation. AC light is on in the fan position, but then after hitting 1, 2, 3 and 4, it shuts off and no cold air. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
I was taught to use ofn aswell. but now I think about it, if the system is already been open to atmosphere and driven through some puddles or whatever and has moisture in the system. then adding any moisture while not ideal, should be fine. as long as you hold a vacuum for a good hour before charging.
Its not so much the moisture but the oil carried in the air and the dirt if the filtration isn't very good, vaccing down won't remove that and it might cause problems later on.
The receiver drier is for sure saturated with moisture, you will never get all of the moisture you just induced out of there. Nitrogen is your friend when checking ac leaks.
Have 2010 Jetta 2.5 mk5 and Level I’ll check the fuses office is good but I still know how the power and the positive cable connect to the compressor what else I can check I’ll replace the relay inside car Do you think is gonna be the control AC panel the one inside because I push the button for the AC on and not doing nothing I’ll push it off and let’s continue Johnson didn’t do nothing and I still don’t have power in the positive cable
I like to use a rubber tipped air chuck and blow directly into the low side service port and keep the high side gauge connected. the air will go past the valve and it will self-seal when I let go of the trigger so I don't have to close a valve.
hey brother 00457 - Control Module for Network (J519) 013 - Check DTC Memory its a 2008 jetta with a 2.0fsi non turbo engine any thoughts tried changing the control valve on the compressor still nothing compressor does not come on when trying to recharge the system. this code is stored in the hvac and comfort control module.
Great diagnostic and fix. So does this test with air, later create more moisture in cabin when using AC? About that status codes, did you get them from repair manual, or is it described somewhere in Elsawin?
If it's leaking from the sensor. Then you would replace the sensor and evac / recharge the system. I think those sensors have a shrader valve underneath but maybe safer evacuating the system first
Positive Lead Diagnostics it's definitley leaking from the sensor. Do you know if I can pull the part from a junk yard or the high pressure + o ring makes that a counterproductive idea. (Context: broke college student)
You can probably get it from a junk yard. But remember it's from a junk yard. I don't know how expensive those psi sensors are. You are probably better off getting a new one with a new o-ring
Hai.. my car is vw jetta 1.9 tdi mk5 2008 dsg having same type of compressor.. problem is when i turn on ac its not cooling immediately some time in sunny days.. after few min like 10 to 12 min its turing on cooling... While driving car also its stoping cooling automatic and turing on cooling .. it self.. what is the problem.. everything is ok looks like but problem is not identified and its irritating me q lot.. pls help. Me out my broo
I have a 08 GTI and my A/C blows intermittently. I noticed if it's 90+ degrees outside, the A/C doesn't blow cold but if it's below that temperature it works fine. Any thoughts? I remember have that pressure switch shown on the video replaced like 3 years ago.
no faults or codes. I'm using the gauge that came with the can of freon from the auto parts store. It can only read the low side pressure and it is in the acceptable range, given the ambient temperature. Right now I have an AC compressor solenoid valve and pressure switch on order. Which part do you think I should start replacing first? Or just do both at the same time? Oh and I injected some dye yesterday and no leaks were found.
Do you have climate control? If so it has a diagnostic mode which will tell you all sorts including refrigerant pressure and compressor shut down codes for free.
theres couple of step to do the a?c if every thing works but is not getting colder check your pressure switch or you need to recharge your freon leaking but if the comopressor dont work at all it might be stock and you will need a new now if everyhing is good but still not clod check your blower under the compartment now if the issue your a?c is loud noise it migth clogged issue or bearing ang your pipe is getting so wet and moisted this just base on my experience
While I was was joking with him hence the smile!! The scan tool was an unnecessary step, He did that to demonstrate, I'm sure . If you got something to say go ahead and say it.
Adding Air is Never a Good Idea. Small Tank of Compressed Nitrogen will last a long time if that is the rout you use to test for leaks. Most Air compressors produce massive amounts of moisture that is trapped in the air and it is rare to see a Shop that has a Moisture Separator. After-coolers and Refrigeration units work but don't get rid of all the water. Nitrogen on the other Hand pushes moisture and does not deposit any moisture inside the system. Today's modern Recovery & Recharge Systems claim to check for moisture when evacuating the system but I still don't think that is fool proof. But still a nice Video!!
No argument, but think of it like this, what would you rather clean up the cup of coffee you spilled or the pot of coffee you spilled. I used shop air for 15 Years to do the exact same thing and I would do so again if I ran out of Nitrogen but you must know what is going to come out of your air hose!! Other contaminants coming from an air hose factor into this as well, an example would be tiny particles of rust traveling from the tank true the air hose or what about the oil that can be present in the lines.
9 out of 10 times condencer is to blame and it's on high presure side and yes no good idea to put air in... :-) my vw was ok for one season but this summer I get shut off number 16 something to do with g280 valve..sold car like this so don't know what it was presure sensor whitch I replaced last summer go in peases.. good video anyway