2013 - 2017 Honda Accord long crank and stalling p0087 

Good morning, could be something with the pin fit at the terminals of censor or pcm if it keeps throwing the 339 code. If the code has cleared and still no fuel pressure then I would suspect something with the low pressure fuel pump or something in that circuit. Good luck

My no start vehicle wound up needing a new pgm-fi relay(the 4 pole relay in the upper left of the under dash fuse panel, driver's side). I used a temporary 4 pole relay and shaved off the alignment tab so i could plug it in, then ordered one from Honda. I suppose the crank position sensor code was probably intermittent and just coincidental

@@wallautomotive8602 keep me posted if not 👍🏻

@@BCautosolutions She's been all good with the new fuel pump/pgm-fi relay

@@wallautomotive8602 glad to hear

No problem 👍

They average about 28-30 mpg if that’s your concern so depending on what your getting now will dictate that. Overal they are good cars

In my opinion they are wrong espeically if you have a long crank but it’s possible they are seeing something in the data that validates their diagnosis.

No, check your air intake tube (black rubber according looking pipe in between air box and throttle body)

Not sure I follow.

Yes it could still be either fuel pump, typically the In tank pumps just crap out, you might want to do a fuel pressure test on the low side just to see. If you have a scan tool you can also see if the high fuel pressure is out of spec. With all that being said I still think it’s the high pressure pump possibly not enough pressure but not low enough/picks up pressure just enough time to now throw a code like in this case

I have the same situation, did you find a resolution?

Just seeing this now sorry. How did you make out.

any solution to this i have same issue

No, it’s just a coincidence

High pressure fuel pump

Most likely high or low pressure pumps.

Got it so just either replace pump or should I pressure test it first

Also what is IG1 “high” I was looking at live date and couldn’t figure out if that’s bad or what

@@Kamperization95 yes I do some diagnosing so you don’t avoid replacing wrong part.

Yes it may very well be

Yes, absolutely can.

No, depending where the lobe is there will have more tension on the pump vs less tho

@@BCautosolutions thanks bro for the help really appreciate it

@@661jdmnews glad to help

Could still be the pump

Di pump, fuel rail sensor most likely. Would have to see some data to have a better idea.

@@BCautosolutions is the fuel rail sensor something I can change ?

@@beltz8 yes, although Honda wants you to change it with the rail (only way it’s sold)

What’s the mpg it’s averaging in that time frame?

I’m not sure about mpg.

@@2Jonb that will tell us of something is up or not…

@@BCautosolutions okay I will get this information and get back to you thanks.

@@2Jonb 👍🏻👍🏻

You could, not the safest approach but you could. The safer way would be to put a gauge on it.

@@BCautosolutions Thanks! I did that and fuel spilled out of it when I hit the start button, so I guess I’ll be doing this job soon.

@@nesone6520 🫡

@@BCautosolutions So... I replaced the fuel pump, the car started after a couple of cranks, idled a bit high for about 30 seconds then turned off. Smokey and bad fuel smell (probably from the starter fluid I had used before), Started again, same thing. I swapped out the plugs to my newer ones as the ones in there got all fouled up. I turned it on again and it idled for a bit, I pushed the throttle a bit, and it turned off. Now it won't start anymore. From the 1st time the engine ran, the CEL came on. The codes it now gives me are P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High, P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low, P0301, P0302, P0303 (cylinder misfires), and P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected. I cleaned the MAF sensor with the special cleaner and also tested it with a voltmeter and blow dryer and the ohms did change as I applied/removed the heat. I replaced the MAP sensor, and still 'no go'. Would you be able be able to tell me where the Intake Air Temperature sensor is located? I can't find any info on that. My car is a '13 Accord EXL 2.4L 4 cylinder. I'm hesitant to buy a new MAF sensor ($$$) and it not solve my issue. I also heard that the Intake Air Temp sensor could be built-in with the MAF sensor, any truth to that? Thanks in advance for your advice.

@@nesone6520 intake temp sensor is built into maf. Might wanna get it looked at professionally at this point

If it has a check engine light it’s very possible it’s in limp mode so yeah, get it changed out then proceed with further diagnosis if need be.

@@BCautosolutions thanks a ton. I'll be sure to provide feedback!

Probably just a coincidence

My car started doing the same exact thing with the same lights on the dash as yours on my ride home from work yesterday. I have the same code p0087. Did you get it fixed and if so what was the outcome?

@@JoseRodriguez-yp2ss It needs a new fuel pump, it should be a $300-500 fix

Not in particular. Sounds like if you have fuel but no spark or compression possibly or contaminated fuel.

@@BCautosolutions I have the proper fuel level and my compression good my timing is good I don’t think I have 4 bad injectors but could I have more then one bad coil is that possible maybe my spark is weak I check the coil one by one they do spark could the out put of my coils be very weak keep in mind this car only has 60k miles on it what sucks is I have no codes I crank it and crank it hopping to pick up a code but nothing thanks for your quick response it nice to get idea from different mechanic

@@triplesautorepairtriplesautore the fuel itself could be contaminated. I would take a fuel sample into a clear bottle and shake it up, then let it settle and see if you see any separation

May be the sensor on the fuel rail not reading correctly at times or possibly low/sluggish battery would be my first 2 thoughts.

Thank you for replying! They load tested my battery and it passed. Could it still be bad? And do you know the part number for the sensor you’ve mentioned?

@@WhiteBoy136985 could/sounds like it’s intermittent. Fuel rail sensor is part of the rail. Have to buy it complete (smh)

Thank you! I will try the battery first. I really hope that fixes it, this has been such a headache.

Sorry one more question, could a weak battery go hand in hand with the replacements of the fuel pumps? The dealer replaced those two pumps because the pressure was too low so I’m wondering how a battery could affect the pumps or if it even does affect them

Well if you having a problem and wiggling the harness starts it, I would look there first.

But I get this same code tho

@@loco612 sounds like coincidence then. Take it to someone who can properly diagnose it.

@@BCautosolutions ok imma change that high pressure where can I get it for the low

@@loco612 there isn’t any deals to be found. Have to find new one

Consider yourself very lucky 👏

Mechanical parts highly recommend oem only

Yeah this is 99% change your issue. If you have any doubts or concerns you should get it diagnosed professionally

Hey just wanted to , thank you for the help, I got my car fixed, it was the high pressure pump, thank you for what you do

@@cast1070 glad to hear. Hopefully the price was fair

Hi, yes it was fare , I know pumps are pricey but I got 7 years out of it, I have another ? I have to change my cover gasket next I have a small leak, why can’t I find a kit that has all the seals included for Accord Sport , I can only find gasket by itself , if I look at kit it says it doesn’t fit sport

@@cast1070 that’s weird. Your looking aftermarket or Honda? I know for Honda it doesn’t come as a kit. You have to buy individually. I can get part numbers tomorrow if anything.

Could be the high pressure pump starting to fail or the starter drawing too much current causing a longer then normal crank

@@BCautosolutions thank you for fast response.

@@Killmonize no problem

First thing that comes to mind is a transmission judder. Have your fluid flushed 3x and see how that goes. I have multiple videos on this issue

@@BCautosolutions Thank you soooo much!! I’ll give that a try.

@@virginiabenjamin2060 for sure. Lmk how it goes

@@BCautosolutions I’ll definitely keep you updated. ☺️

​@@virginiabenjamin2060Well?

Could still be a high pressure pump issue

Oil consumption on the 4 cylinders alone with vtc/tensioner rattles, valve cover gasket leaks, rear calipers. On the v6: trans judders (easily be eliminated with proper trans maintenance, I have a video on that, also rear calipers, valve cover/vcm leaks onto alternator, timing belt tensioner a wear prematurely. Just some stuff off top of my head

@@BCautosolutions that's some great info thanks!

@@tbskirk anytime

@@BCautosolutions I did the VCM muzzler and I've been doing oil at 3k and transmission fluid at 10k intervals. (Only drive 3k a year.). Brake fluid and coolant every 3-4 years as well. These cars, at least to me, are much more delicate than even early 2000s Hondas. Yet somehow my dad has a jeep compass with a CVT that's closing in on a quarter million. Go figure.

@@ganzonomy you are the minority when it comes to maintenance. Too many people overlook it or simply don’t want to spend on maintenance and wonder why it’s burning oil or needs a trans but 70-80k. Great job once again. 👏

Consider yourself lucky 👍🏻

Should i expect that pump to be on its way out sometime soon? Lol

@@jorgecastaneda7644 no not necessarily

That's happened to me some time i don't know why

🙌

Yep

It happens

The regulator is part of the in tank pump

just as the OP mentioned, the fuel pressure regulator is inside the fuel pump module assembly, which is inside your fuel tank. If you are sure the culprit is indeed the regulator and you want to replace it yourself, I suggest you check out videos on "9th accord replace fuel filter", you'll need to take the pump out and dissamble it, which takes efferts.

@@zkmoonea I’ll give it a try soon, thank you so much for letting me know.

Probably the low pressure in tank pump

@@BCautosolutions it was the high pressure. There was a recall for 2018-2020 for the one in the tank. Mine was not recalled so figured it was the high pressure one.

@@alexisserrano5158 car stock? That’s odd that the high pressure one failed. Anyways thanks for sharing

@@BCautosolutions It is fbo and run e30. I hardly ever run ethanol though so it is hard to blame it on that.

@@alexisserrano5158 yes, hose deterioration probably from an ethanol kit

If you can’t tell between the 2.4 and the 3.0 you shouldn’t be working on the car.

@@BCautosolutions making excuses. Two thumbs down 👎🏽👎🏽

@@AFatherToTheFatherless just being honest. Don’t touch the car, let a professional do it.

@@BCautosolutions I'm a shop owner and diagnostic specialist. I want to put an end to auto repair videos that lack basic information so every time I see an auto repair video that doesn't mention year, make, model, and engine size I give it a thumbs down and say why. If the creator gets triggered like you, 2 thumbs down for poor character

@@AFatherToTheFatherless cool story, “shop owner and diagnostic tech” looking for answers on RU-vid…🤣