Informative Video about how to diagnose your starting issue. There have been many starting issues with the 3rd Gen. Focus. Here is one possible solution to your problem! Solution: This particular vehicle had a bad starter
You just saved me $500!! Your wire to the relay made my engine start. I was about to have it towed to the shop for starter replacement. Now I am going to the parts store for a $20 relay. I really appreciate you making this video.
Thank You very much Alek! our 2014 Ford Focus had intermittent starting for two days then today no start, after a few minutes searching RU-vid we found your video " 2013 Ford Focus No Start/ Wont Start Issue SOLVED!" watched every minute then went back to 7:49 swapped identical relay switches and YEA! car started, went down to auto parts store got a replacement for 22 dollars and we're back on the road! Thank You!
I have exactly the same issue, same model change the relay and still not starting up. Any suggestions? Last option take it to Dealership and reprogram the key to the car
Excellent video. This video probably saved me a lot of money by keeping my car out of a shop. The trouble shooting tips were great, I went through all of them. Thought it was a bad starter but ruled that out after using the jumper wire test and found that the starter was turning over. Come to find out it was a relay gone bad. Got a new $9 relay and car is starting again. Thank You !
Just a tip. If you were in an accident even a small one or hit a pot hole to hard ford has a fuel cutoff switch comes custom on all fords. Cuts off power to the fuel pump as a safety feature. Just look for videos or on Google where yours is and see if thats your problem
Ford Ka+ here, nearly new - 2000 km on a counter. Wouldn't start twice already... Thankfully there were people around to help with jump starting. This is my first and hopefully last Ford I bought.
Excellent video. I was at the market and my 2017 Escape would not start. After 20 minutes it started. Got it home and now it won't turn over. It clicks when I try to start it now. Seems like my battery should be good because it started at the market. I plan on calling a FORD mechanic on the phone. I appreciate the good information.
Thanks for the video. Very informative. We currently have a 2015 Focus Titanium that we bought used about a week ago with 16K on the odometer. Next morning after getting it home from a Ford Dealer, the car wouldnt even turn over but had full power throughout the electronics. The dealer we bought it from is 80 miles away so Ford agreed to tow it our local dealer where it has now sat for a week awaiting repair. The tech claims it is a bad starter which seems bizarre for a car with such low miles and that the TCM checked out fine. Regardless, the car is still under warranty so things will be covered but very frustrating.
Love the simplicity! Great instructor! Mine starts strong occasionally and then sometimes no noise and absolutely nothing when you turn the key however the radio and daytime running lights come on bright. Obviously you need your foot on brake, tested car battery very strong(not alternator or battery). I was told only a key chip issue if theft or key icon appear when on position. I will test relay next and starter next thanks to this video!
I almost went out to buy on but after so manny reviews about its problems I just didn't want to chance it. So I went to buy a Kia Forte instead. Love that car.
Thanks great help and great instructions and my starter is good and the switch of the relays wasn't the problem so now I'm leaning towards the computer of the car fingers crossed 💯💪🏿💪🏿
Good job, helped me a lot today. On the 2015 1.5TDCI wagon, UK, the Starter Relay was R15 (furthest one towards the back of the engine on the left side).
Holy shite. Having starter problems but the car wouldn't act up when I went to the mechanic. Stopped in middle of sketchy town and it started acting up. Short story shorter this helped me out 1000%! Relay problem
How did you get that 10mm nut off, the Stantion just broke when I went to unscrew it with ratchet. The 13 came off fine, the 10 is just breaking the whole plastic clip as I’m trying to unscrew , maybe if I hold the other but with a pair of pliers but I don’t have pliers right now
What are those other two relays for? Would have been useful info. If the starter relay is bad, I'd rather swap it for a horn relay rather than a fuel pump relay.
we received & cracked the codes from our state inspection station ~ my engine light is on for my 2012 Focus ~ need to replace the exhaust camshaft sensor but there are 2 sensors ~ 1 towards top, 1 at bottom ~ which is the exhaust sensor ?
Hi.i have the same car and model as yours. Starter okay tried 9:03. Replace the relay using the 2 extra one and still not stsrting using the key. Please let me know and any suggestions would help
How many miles does it have ? I just got a 2016 Focus SE 2.0 L GDI engine . just over 60,000 miles . It's fairly good even spectacular . Runs like a champ . Only had it for 5 weeks though . It seems to die , drain the battery by only leaving ignition on a few minutes ..Need a boost . Also AC went out and now the wiper motors died ...it's a salvage title . but otherwise engine , trans perform greatly . I think ( hope ) that the wiper motors are bad because mechanic said they're getting power
With this particular issue I'm surprised Ford hasn't issued a recall for this. Mine won't start at times either. And putting it in neutral doesn't help. I just have to wait. But that negative add-on sounds like a great idea.
On my 2014 Ford Focus system starting fault error on dashboard The root cause is likely this: it's a broken fuse, intermittent voltage to BCM. If you run a BCE test, U3006. Pinpoint test BCM Supply circuits. Found mega fuse #9 broken, this has been causing intermittent voltage to BCM. Replace and retest, OK. Tech notes: PCM code P0420 received. Ford part number FMC cv6z 14526 CA - circuit breaker asy. The part cost 13.75. But total repair cost at the dealership was to 238.73. For me this issue was intermittent I brought it in and they did not correctly diagnose it the first time because when this part starts wearing out, sometimes they will miss it when running the code, so I ended up with a new alternator and a battery that I didn't need. The mechanic also told me that when this part goes other erratic behaviors can also occur with a vehicle. So I would highly recommend buying this similar part for your car I have a Ford Focus 2014 SE, the part is inexpensive, swap that part out first before you spend any money on anything else , I hope this post helps out a lot of people, because this is the kind of issue that can easily be misdiagnosed and people will just be throwing money at things that don't need to be fixed
My 2014 Ford Focus SE is saying the same msg i am able to get into the car and drive it for 15 mins and suddenly it cuts off saying park transmission in Park . Then after wards the msg comes up and says starting system fault
If the battery (power/ground) connections are flakey, the computer can do almost anything. You should be able to put a voltmeter from any location (start with +12 battery terminal lug) where the 12 is always on to the chassis and start wiggling wires. If the voltage changes AT ALL, there is flakey wiring (voltage will get dropped across the bad connection to the battery before it gets to the voltmeter). I mean ANY but definitely .1 V or more. Now there is an issue with the negative battery cable assembly where the lug for that attaches with a bolt with a washer going through the terminal eyelet lug to a welded bolt on the other side of the chassis. For one, the body is PAINTED there, so the only electrical contact is through FOUR pressure touch connections a) the crimped not soldered battery cable to the lug, the side of the washer touching the lug, the other side of the washer touching the bolt, and the threads of the bolt screwed into the chassis welded nut. When this bolt corrodes, AH OH, a flakey main battery ground connection that can cause ANYTHING to happen. You can CONSIDERABLY IMPROVE the battery ground by a) taking the bolt out and sanding the paint off the body that touches underneath the neg LUG so the lug DIRECTLY CONTACTS THE BODY (not just through the bolt), b) sand BOTH sides of the washer to remove corrosion or buy a new and very special bolt to replace), c) wire brush the bolt threads if corroded, d) reconnect with plenty of torque and also check main battery terminals for secure tight status. This fixed my car with also incredibly strange starting problems and even occasionally draining the battery the computer was so confused.
Dear, the old battery from my ford focus mk31. 6 tdcib95 hpdropped, but after a replacement and a service test they told me that the alternator is charging too much, apx 14.7 V at 100 r/min and 15r/min at 2500 r/min. Is it ok?
This helped, my relay was bad. Put a new one in and back on the road. This is the only problem I've ever had with this car besides the clunky transmission which doesn't bother me much.
david leach Be aware that's how mine started then all of a sudden transmission quit changing gears last week towed to my house and in the morning it started working fine so i took it to the dealer so they can check it, it took a week for them to look at it they changed clutch plate and TCM got it back today and fucking transmission says it's overheating beware!!! Fucking sucks now I have to take it back again ,car came back worse than before 😡.
Yeah, it started a couple times with the new relay for me and apparently that was just a fluke. It died again and I took it to the dealer. They put a new TCM in and kept it for two days and everything is fine now. I've had this car for five years now and this is the only problem I've had and the only trip to the dealer. I'm hear I'm lucky though.... I like the car and the mileage etc... it drives nice. A little lumpy for my taste but I use it for work in the city and drive lots of bad roads for hours at a time. Had a Mazda 6 before this and it was great but road like a dune buggy. Hurt my tookus something awful....
Instead of adding additional ground wires, a MUCH simpler way is to measure the IR drop from each battery terminal to the starter. The drop from (-) battery to the engine block should be < .6V, from (+) battery to (+) starter terminal should be no more than .2V. If the "ground" ckt is out of range, divide your measurements: battery to body; body to block! That is the way I WOULD find excessive ckt resistance!
Im having some issues after i took a big water puddle and the fuse F38 keeps poping...now i notice that ur starter is faster than mine u think that can be my problem?
Thanks for the information sir, same problem and same ford fuccos 2013 model and the is the engine not cranking.He is now in Canada and I'm here in Riyadh Saudi Arabia so I advice him to check the battery voltage, starter relay and the starter motor.they removed the starter relay and put a wire to check that there is no problem on starter motor. But real problem is the pcm and the transmission.
Mine having problems starting after first second sometimes even after three tries . Does crank albeit weakly and has brand new battery . Was told by mechanic that if was starter it wouldn't crank at all ? Is this true ? Loose starter cables ?
I have a 2003 ford focus ztw its the wagon model with the 2.3L I have had very good luck with mine. over the years that I have had it. I bought mine new in 04 . I can count on one hand how many problems that I have had with it. not many they are known for some things in the early years like 2000-2005 im in the middle but back then there was some issues with the key getting stuck in the ignition and it would not turn or even come out. so the fix was the cylinder replacement . they are also known for trans issues and engine mount issues . also the alt were going out alot and not lasting long. there is a diode in the post b terminal cable that used to short out. mine went out while i was driving home from work 32 miles away from my house it was a bad snow storm in 2012 when they go they just go no warning the lights on the dash will flicker and your batt light will come on . so right away i thought it was the alt that i had replaced 2 weeks prior or had something to do form the storm but it was just bad timing maybe a lot of snow and water shot up and shorted out the cable. im a tech so Ido most of my own work. there are only a few things i wont tackle by myself.
Mine's done this at least four times since I got it...two months ago! ! The dealership already replaced the TCM three weeks in. Today it didn't start right away, but after basically opening every single door, hood AND trunk, it decided to start ....talk about stressful. Thanks for the video! I'm definitely going to implement this should it happen again in the future.
I wish you the best of luck! Keep in mind, there any apparently many possible "no start" issues with this car. but if it happens to be a starter then i'm happy I could be of assistance!
would this also keep draining the battery? Once i charge the battery, it does the clicking noice like you said but when i release the key, some times it will turn over.
Hey how do you repair your car, my car has te exact issue as yours , i hear the clicking noise when I wanted to start but when I release the key it won’t start so many times later it starts idk what happens
I have been working on the ford focus for 16 years now when it comes to starters always go new I do not like the quality of the after market starters today unless it is a oem AM
My car did the same thing. I have a 2012 ford focus with 80,000 miles. The car wouldnt start saturday. So i had a 100$ diagnostic done at firestone. And they agreed it was the starter as well. I was charged 501$ for the diagnostic and for a new starter & labor. So my final price was 501$...
my 2013 is having a issue. 2 time driven in rain killed 2 coil packs. the motor is dry so the packs didnt get wet. today driving in rain hit a puddle. it started sputtering like a 3rd pack die i pulled into a lot and it stalled. now it wont crank over iv heard tcm issue im getting frustrated with this pos
i had that problem but it was bms ground cable a 53.00 cable from the dealer. the sensor went out. how i figure it out i bypass the ground the bms by jumping it with booster cables.if u do this diag in video and no luck its bms sensor on ground cable you can jump it for time being. but just get new bms cable.
Yo my girl has a 2014 Ford focus and we’ve been having issues with the car just shutting off and dying and sometimes not wanting to restart lake it goes completely dead thanking that it’s the battery when we just replace the battery. But just try this technique and after the car shutting off and dying and not wanting to hold charge do exactly what you did in his video and I start over completely fine went in the car started it up started up now idk if that fixed the problem hopefully theirs nothing major
Hello what would you recommend if transmission is not sensing that it is in park or neutral, i have the same case just did a rebuild of the transmission cause of a burned oil seal anfter changing it, the car cant start at all just have to test thou the clicking sound that you mentioned
2013 ford focus , dead batt , replaced with new , still wont start , check fuse and relay no dice . Did your wire trick just get a click guess all be replacing the starter
My sons 2012 focus se is doing the same thing and has gotten progressively worse until it will no longer start at all. Battery has 12.7v, jumped terminals under starter relay and starter is fine, switched both similar relays to starter relay position and nothing. I think it's the neutral safety switch on the transmission, ignition switch, TCM, or BCM. This is driving me crazy......
It’s a pile of crap! I agree! Mine has a starting issue. I did starter, relays, the new negative battery cable. Now mine don’t start now at all. When it cools down it starts
Trouble is your top earth cable has now bypassed the battery monitoring system so the car will no longer be able to monitor the battery health properly and provide the correct charging regime
I have one and it's a LW 2012 5 speed manual, it still has low mileage right now with 62,000 kilometers in 2021. I have replaced the steering rack due to the electric assist power steering failing, the brakes are noisy and squealing although the pads still have enough on them. haven't had any starting problems or any other problems yet. still might be a good idea to trade and buy a used toyota camry or corolla as they are better quality for lasting a longtime.
I have a 2011ford focus and I find battery keeps draining while car shuts off...Apparently It has a parasitic drain, I have replaced two batteries now but they only last several days of driving prior to becoming low on voltage...Battery Charging from alternator seemed to be ok but I have no idea where's parasitic drain from..Even auto electrician could not find source of the drain
People that have these new cars with the auto start stop need to disable this feature, yeah it maybe ok saving fuel and the environment but it puts unnecessary strain on the starter motor and burns them out prematurely than what it would cranking the engine with the key/button its a good idea but its making the manufacturer a fortune
it would be the second to last position... (right before you twist it to start the car)... it's also the position that the key reverts to after the car has been started... keep the key in that position to do this test. hope this helps!
Hey I was having problems with my car to , it kept clicking. I changed the starter and the battery still wouldn't work . So I replaced the cable connected to the battery and it turned on
I have a 15 EcoBoost with the manual transmission and I love it. However it is having this starting issue. It won't start and then after several attempts to start it it'll just crank like there's nothing wrong. Really weird
I have a 2013 Ford Focus, and I have a really annoying problem, it displays a message showing "engine malfunction" and the message of hill assitant, so it won't let the car to start. By removing the relay, and putting it back on, seems to "partially fix" the problem for that moment. After the car is turned off, the problem begins to show up again. I've changed the relay twice, and still getting the same issue. Is there anything else I can do?
Antonio Ramos Hi man, I think I have the same issue, can you take a look on my video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fakkeYgyQ7U.html) your problem was the same ? Did you solved it ? Ford is not able to find the root cause.. Thanks
Aubert Tristan Hi bro. I did watch the video. Well, I did some many things on this car. Changed the relays, regenerate the codes, changed the ground of the car. So far month and half, is working perfectly fine.
This is exactly what happened to my 2014 Focus HB. The culprit is the corroded connector in the BCM. Solved by cleaning the pins using wire moisture remover with a toothbrush.
