Thanks for the how to video. I had a coolant leak and removed the cover under the engine to try and determine where the leak was coming from. The leak lined up with the water pump. I called chevy to check on whether I still had a warranty at 70,000 miles and I did. I had 1 month left so I took it right over. I also noticed a transmission leak after taking off the cover under the car. The dealer called me back to let me know the pump was replaced and that the output shaft seal was leaking. They also replace it under warranty. If they didn't replace the belt, I'll be using your video when I do change it.
Thank you. This video helped me save about $1,000 this week. If I wasn't able to watch this about 100 times this week, I'd have lacked the confidence to do this myself.
Dom M I’m glad I could help. It was a bit long winded but I felt like I put a lot of information in it. This was my first video like this and I tried to add all the things that I would want to know before talking the job.
You don't talk too much, I appreciate you explaining the process and why you're replacing what. My 2014 CTD just crossed 100k and my "Change Timing Belt" message has arrived. This is one of the best instructional videos I've ever seen. Given you're working on the front of a transverse-mounted engine, the camera work is superb. Any questions I had were answered in the comments already. Excellent how-to on an often intimidating job!
Thank you for your detail-guided instructional video for timing belt change on chevy cruze 2.0l diesel! You did a wonderful job sharing this project and making it possible for so many more people! Perfect commentary. Just hit 100k on mine, so will be completing this project shortly thanks to this instructional video 😊
I am glad that the video gave you the courage to tackle this job yourself! It is more intimidating than it is hard. Reach out if you have any issues and let me know how it goes when you get it done!
Well I am now watching this 5 years later and still the best video on youtube hands down on this job. I have a 2014 cruze diesel and I just hit the 100k mark so I will be changing mine next week sometime. I would have taken to a mechanic if I had not watched your video. It was absolutely one of the best video on how to do something fairly technical so thank you for your hard work. It is still top notch video after all these years. I will update once I change mine.
@@Bradherr_ Ok finally did my timing belt, water pump, tensioner, serpentine belt and your video was so helpful in many ways. My 2 cents.....if you line up the marks on your timing belt with the marks on the gear wheels on the engine you will be fine. I first tried to install the tensioner after I installed the timing belt and that was a no go.....put the tensioner on first then install timing belt. Other than that it is not to bad to do. The next time it will be much easier. Again thanks for the great video.
Hey Bradley. I have a 2014 Cruze that is starting to nickel and dime me to death that I'm on the verge of getting rid of but I likely need to replace the timing belt before I can sell it. I certainly dont have the mechanical aptitude to do the joib myself but plan on having a local diesel shop do it. In your opinion is it possible for someone competent to get away with doing the job without buying the 150$ timing belt tool from Idparts? Or better safe than sorry?
Great video, thanks. Looks like the water pump on my 2014 is going bad. This video will be a great resource to help me with that. Quick question, where is the drain for the coolant?
Awesome video. Going to get mine done tomorrow. I’m at 102,000 miles, 2014 model. Are going to do the oil pump seal inside the oil pan? I’m looking at doing that as well since it seams to be a known issue. Got it done in just under 3 hours. Had a friend help. Thanks again for the great video. I had to pull the instrument cluster fuse to clear the “change belt” message.
thank you for the video! i just changed my timing belt today. i did it in 3 hours taking my time. your video made it much easier for me as i knew what to expect. thank you again.
amdrew miller I am so glad that you were able to tackle the job after watching the video. The job looks intimidating at first but once you get in there it isn’t too bad. I really appreciate the positive feedback.
Hi Bradley. My names Bradley as well an i have a 2014 deleted cruze lol. My car has 170,000 miles on the original timing belt, tensioner, idler an waterpump. Thanks to your video im gonna do this job myself. You did a great job explaining everything!
Glad you found my video helpful! There are a couple facebook pages for our cars and if you need any help or run into any problems don’t hesitate to reach out. Let me know how it goes!
You should make a video on replacing the fuel pump apparently they can leak well atleast mine is, also I like that exhaust😉 I plan on getting that done to my cruze too
Could you send me the DPF delete kit and tune you used? Timing belt and water pump replacement went great due to your video! The only issue we are having now with both my wife's and mine 2014 cruze 2.0l diesel are with the DPF and wanting to get both deleted and tuned to fix.....feel free to PM me if needed. Thank you!
This was an amazing video! I am not sure why someone would say you talked too much! You definitely talked the right amount, clear and precise and slow and patient!! Thank you so much! I am in Canada and am having a terrible time finding a decent price to get this done. So I am going to do it myself, thanks to this video! Thanks!!!
The Bible I really appreciate your feedback. So glad you feel comfortable enough to perform this task after watching the video. If you have any questions just ask!!
The hand rotation procedure after the work is finished is a very crucial step. It verifys your engine is in time by proving the pistons dont hit anything.
Did you remove power from the battery? That’ll certainly reset the “timing belt” change message. the proper way o remove the message is to pull fuse 15 out for 1 minute
Thank you again Bradley. I was hoping I would not need your video this timing belt change but I did. The tensioner had me puzzled a bit. Bless you my friend. 206,379 miles.
Great video! I am going to change my own belt now. It's not real hard at all. Considering the last time I changed it I think I paid almost $1000 at the dealer. Damn.
So glad you found the video and feel comfortable to tackle this yourself! It is a bit overwhelming when you first look at it but once the engine mount is out of the way there is plenty of room! Holler if you get stuck and reach out if you have problems BEFORE you try to start it!!
Great job, I do timing belts almost the same way. I take a permanent marker and mark all the pulleys and corresponding mark on the belt. I take the belt off and transfer the marks onto the new belt. Put on the new belt lining up all the marks and you done. I don't waste time getting the engine TDC and marks lined up because some engines are a bear to turn over. I have done hundreds like this and never had an issue. I told an automotive shop teacher once that I change the belts like this without lining up the timing and he said it's impossible. LMAO
A lot of people don’t understand this concept for some reason. As long as the cam timing was correct when the belt was removed there is no need to find TDC. Thank you for the feedback!!
Question about that deletion, what computer do you have to get from Oz Tunerz? is it this one www.oztuner.com/chevy-cruze-diesel/2014-2015/efilive-autocal-with-special-edition-custom-ecm-tuning-chevy-cruze-diesel-2014-2015.html? They have that other one there that has the 30, 40, 50 tune but it says it keeps the standard emissions so that cant be the right computer. Just to verify and the only other thing you need would be the straight pipe and EGR delete kit for the dpf delete correct? thanks
Tony Rame, that is the correct tune. You will need the down pipe but the EGR block-off is not necessary. You can just unplug the egr valve and leave the valve in place. The valve will remain closed and function the same as the block-off. The block-off wasn’t available when I did mine and I still have the valve installed. Installing the block-off will “clean up” the back side of the engine and make it look less cluttered.
I know this is almost 6 years late, but I managed to get my '14 Cruze a few months ago and had 95K miles on it. Now has over 102k miles and now need to do the timing. I plan to get the kit from IDparts; most of your video was pretty self explanatory but I noticed you didn't use the locking tools for the cam and crankshaft. Is it possible to just line the marks on the new belt to the marks on the cam and fuel pump pulleys? And how were you able to put the new belt on without those pulleys moving? May save me from having to get the locking tools especially since they won't get used very much. Appreciate the video!
Glad you enjoyed the video!! There is no need to lock the cam or crank. There is a good chance the cam will move when the belt comes off. As long as you start with the mark on the cam around the 1-2 o’clock position you will be able to get the belt lined up on the crank you can just rotate the cam a tooth or two to line the marks up on the belt. Feel free to reach out if you need more pointers BEFORE you start. I am here to help
@@Bradherr_ I'm currently waiting on the car from a different repair job at the dealer so I am reading on the timing belt job while I wait. I still have to order the components too, Gonna try to see if I can source all ACDelco parts and belts. It sucks though that parts for these cars are suddenly hard to find; why manufacture something if you can't support it. I'll be sure to reach out with any questions before I start anything, while I am mechanically inclined doing a timing belt replacement will be my first.
I just got in the timing belt kit from IDParts this week. Mileage is at 118K currently but need to find the time on a weekend to get it done since I don't know how long it might take. I'm pretty mechanically minded so I shoudln't have too much trouble. I'll probably need a better floor jack and to see if I have the tools and sockets needed to tackle the job. I am also wondering about the locking kit and whether I need that too. I'm going to study this video a few times before starting this job. I really with they used a chain over a darn belt, I really hate belts.
@@cavisualproductions4406 I believe I listed all the tools in the video. There is no need for the alignment tools. Just make sure you start out with the cam in the correct position, about 1-2 o’clock I believe . Then line up the marks on the belt with the marks on the pulleys. You got this!
@@Bradherr_thanks. Im sure I will do fine ive changed hard to reach parts before so this should be no different. Got all the tools needed. Got a crappy small floor jack to use on the ground (live in the sticks no concrete driveway or garage) but have jackstands so will use what I have. I noted near the beginning of your video about delete would you be willing to message me about that?
I’m having issues with mine right now, pulled it all apart to do a water pump making sure to be extra careful of not moving any pulleys but sure enough I go to put the belt on and the cam pulley moves on me. Would it be safe to spin the crank to get it lined up?
There are no special tools required for replacing the belt, just a couple torx bits. Glad you feel confident enough to do this yourself after watching the video! Feel free to reach out with any questions or problems you come across
@@Bradherr_ Thanks I’m a diesel truck mechanic so was good to visually see the job before proceeding. I did the belt on the weekend and everything you said in video was bang on. Runs like a top lol. Thanks
fantastic video, my water pump failed and i've been putting off doing this, but after watching this im gonna crank it out tomorrow. my only question is, do you know any of the torque specs? Specifically for the water pump bolts.
Justin Albers glad you enjoyed the video. This was my first how-to video. I tried to add all the details that I was wanting to know myself before I tackled the job.
Richard Wise so happy to hear that you found the information helpful and feel confident enough to tackle this job! Feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions.
Nice! I made a video, not a very good one lol of me and my son doing mine. I have linked this video in the comments now, had you just did yours a month sooner ha ha.
I did mine just like yours except I had a few complications. After lining up crank mark to notch. Trying to put belt on feul pump gear moved. My heart stopped but it didn't move too much. Got grease on belt yellow mark crank pulley. After cleaning couldn't see the mark. Remarked where I think it was. Faint mark. While putting on cam moved. So now have to start alignment from bottom which would move several teeth while putting on. Eventually got it , wanted to ensure was OK so rotated engine. OK except could never get lines to line back up. Must have made 20 revolutions on crank mark. Decided to start engine to make sure water pump didn't leak then finish putting back together. It took longer to start but initially sounded OK, then started running rough and died. So now I'm hoping it was just because of sensors disconnected. Although I think until it warms up should be running on default programming. So not sure what to do.... Guess I will finish reassembly and hope for the best. If was gas engine would get to top dead center cylinder 1 and start all over. Any ideas?
Hi Bradley, this engine has marks for the camshaft and fuel pump to the engine ?if you have a timing out how do you know if the engine is on timing?obviously if the engine is on timing you just put the new belt with the 3 marks and that’s it.I’d like to know if there marks on top of the engine.thanks
gary stilwell, the nox sensor is in the exhaust but the wiring routes over to the air box. At the air box there is some sort of interface module, that is what I removed along with the sensor from the down pipe. The nox sensor is no longer needed after the race tune is installed.
sparkola, wow. I had to go back and watch the removal again, there are no covers behind the crank pulley. It is open just like that! That makes me a little nervous.
Not sure exactly what you are saying but the old belt probably won’t be lined up with the marks on the pulleys. Just make sure the marks on the pulleys are in the same locations as on the video when you start
@@Bradherr_ ok thank you that is what I ended up doing ended up getting fustrated last night trying to keep them lined up and it got dark gonna try to finish up today
@@Bradherr_ so if I line the crankshaft mark up on the new belt then just go around make sure all marks are in place I should be ok it seems my cam gear is in an odd spot where I need to hold it with a wrench in position while I slide belt on does that seem right
So in this video you are telling people the motor wont need to be at TDC and it will still run as long as the top to pullys match?? lol who do i feel like that isn't right
I may not have been clear, all three of the pulleys need to be lined up with the marks on the belt. It doesn’t matter what position the crank is in, as long as the marks on the pulley are touching the belt so they can be lined up for reinstallation
I believe you used the wrong mark at the crankshaft. The pin on the crank is probably the right mark. I’d recommend replacing everything (water pump, tensioner, idler pulley, crankshaft seal).
TonyRomeNewMoney, I agree that replacing all those items while you are in there makes sense for most people. I don’t mind going back in there to replace a pulley if it gets loud.
Thank you so much just did mine last weekend based off your instructions..really big help dont listen to these idiots saying you talked to much that's what makes it informative.
I was just wondering after you rotate the engine a couple of times to make sure everything is free and clear do you need to readjust the belt tensioner?
Yes, I did. Just rotating the engine a little bit gets all the slack out of the belt from between the pulleys and may require the tension to be reset. Good point.
Bradley, Thank you so much for this video. I just completed the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and idler pulley replacement. I could not have done it without this good video with excellent instruction. It took me about 6 hours including changing the coolant. I started and stopped the video and went back several times for clarification, again, great instruction!
Thank you for the feedback and I am so happy that it was helpful to you! I never imagined I would have received this kind of feedback when I created this video!
Justin Durr, thank you for the feedback. It was my first attempt at a how-to video. I tried to add information that I wanted to know before I would start a job like this.
How are the auto transmissions in those cars? I’m looking at one to commute to and from work. Would prefer a manual trans, but can only find auto near me.
I have 250k on my 2014 and the transmission is holding up pretty well even with the engine tuned. The manuals are only available in the 2nd generation cars and are still hard to find
I did this today and while it was not bad, my camshaft moved while I was doing it. I fought with it for two hours to get the marks to line up 😂 locking tool probably would be a good thing
Mine just moved too, any tips if so thatd be greatly appreciated. I’m wondering if I can turn the crank to get it to line up? Would it be fine or would something interfere?
@@brycehill416 I wouldn’t move the crank. The yellow line in the new belt has to line up with the notch in the case. Rotate the cam and the fuel pump whatever you need to get the marks to line up on the new belt. If you get the belt on all three yellow lines it’s timed. It’s tough use a big ratchet kinda keeps the cam front swinging from either side as fast. I wish I could help you.
Good video. I sold my 2014 Cruze. Thank God. Engine and transmission were superb. Everything else was the dregs. I had one year, 12 months, that I didn’t have anything break. Worst car I ever owned. At 62,000 miles the water pump went out. They replaced the pump and timing belt under warranty... grateful for that mercy.
Jonathan Riddell I ordered the parts from Rock Auto and amazon. I just ordered what I needed to replace. Idparts.com had a kit with everything including bolts.
I’m running into a lot of out of stock on the water pumps, I did find them on gm parts direct tho finally. I found the water pump gasket and belt for like 120
I recall having an issue getting a couple of the parts as well. I don’t remember which ones exactly, that may have been why they were purchased from different vendors.
Roger A I am glad that you enjoyed the video. I believe you may be referring to 32:59 when I cut off the video. At that point I was trying to say “....it is hard to get the camera in position to get a straight on view”
Roger A It was kind of about the tensioner and the correct adjustment, but more specifically getting the camera in the correct position to show what I was trying to do. Do you need more clarification on the adjustment procedure? I can explain it better if needed. Just let me know.
@@Bradherr_ so, other than water pump and belt, did you do any other pumps or parts at that time? Pulleys idler or bearings? Do you have most recent part # for the belt and water pump?
@@letsgobrandon5800 I did not replace any pulleys or tensioners at 120k. The alternator clutch went out around 200k and took out the serpentine belt. An serpentine belt tensioner pulley bearing failed at around 230k and took the belt out again. I replaced the timing belt tensioner and idler at 246k
@@Bradherr_ is that common for the alternator clutch to go out? I’ve been on CruzeTalk and didn’t see that. Not many recent posts on Gen 1 anymore. I’m just trying to get a gauge for what is common or potentially could go wrong in the next 20k miles. My NoX and O2 have held up well and the DEF tank was already replaced . DPF regens ( I have gauge that tells me when ) a lot more frequently now, about every 100-200 miles. It’s my understanding they can be cleaned ( DPF) and refurbished like they do on the semis.
@@letsgobrandon5800 there have been a few other alternator clutch issues, but not a lot. There should be a way to clean the dpf but I am not familiar with that process.
sparkola, mine and several others were reset automatically. It is believed that after changing the belt, the computer recognizes the timing has changed from having a tighter belt and the message goes out by itself
Dylan Morris there are tools to hold the cam and crank in place. The tools screw into the head and hold the cam the correct position. Then the cam gear is loosened so it spins on cam. Then a tool is placed on the crankshaft to align the crank. The belt is installed and tensioned. Then the cam gear is tightened back onto the camshaft to perfectly align it. This process is the way the factory does it and the way the shop manual explains the process. Some have used the tools but there have been no failures or errors associated with using the method in the video.
Andrew Virch, it took about 4 hours but I was making the video at the same time. It could be done in 2-3 hours if you didn’t waste time. That was with simple hand tools and no air or battery tools
spikeman dan, including taking extra time to make the video while doing the job, it took about 4 hours. I believe it could be done in within a couple hours by most people.
@@Bradherr_ crazy shit man! i have a 2014 cruze 1.4 t gas engine i have to replace the valve cover because of a built in pvc valve stuck open, witch is making my check engine light come on, ill be making a video on that soon as i get the new valve cover, ill subscribe to you if you hit me back with one, i also do free sticker giveaway if your interested , i do live streams and mini bike video's might get a kick out of it come check out my chnle some time =)
@@Bradherr_ Thanks for getting back to me, i ended up replacing both. I also found the lockout kit for 28 shipped and it made keeping the timing set very easy, you put the camlock in and it sets the cam, then the belt and then the crank lock which only locks in the correct position. Putting the tensioner on after the belt was a little trick I had to figure out on my own. Tried it before removing and belt was impossible to put on. Getting ready to put everything back together now. Thanks for the great video1
I think these are on of the best cars GM ever made! The diesels are way better than the gas cars as far as reliability and driver comfort goes. GM put a lot of effort into keeping engine noise out of the cabin and that translates into a quiet cabin, free of road noise. I have two of these cars and don’t regret a minute of ownership.
@@supporterofeverythingyouli6255 Yes, there was a SERVICE TIMING BELT message on the Driver Information Center. It is set to display around 100K miles.
I agree. As for parts you might try IAMGMPARTS .com. Prices seem to be better than most. Any thoughts about replacing the trans fluid. It seems to be a sealed unit and GM does not recommend any sort of service.
My water pump failed and the belt skipped a tooth. I have 40 k on this pos. It cranks and almost fires. I don't hear any valve noise and there's compression. I don't think it's an interference motor after all. How do I align the camshaft and crank for #1 TDC? Is there a service manual somewhere. I'm really disappointed in this car.
My dad and I both have a 2014 Diesel Cruze but on his the timing belt broke after it had been replaced about 20K miles ago. How am I going to get it back in time and how much damage was do when it broke? Also where did you get your tune and delete programs?
Monaliza Hip, thank you for the feedback. I agree that I included extra information that wasn’t needed to complete the job, I will try to be more concise next time.
