You don’t have to remove the valve cover, just use the lock block between the cam gears, The lock bar is only used if the cam phasers are being replaced, Not just for the belt being replaced
Okay so yeah youve convinced me to just bring it to the shop. With what I'd spend on the locking tools and the other things needed to even do the job it would be easier to just have them do it
The camshaft locking bar is to hold the cams in timing while removing the phasers. If you don’t loosen the phasers you shouldn’t need to remove the vc.
the 2 alignment dots on cam sprockets will not be lined straight across at tdc... the intake side will be slightly higher... approx. 1 tooth... dont line up the cam dots or you WILL get a camshaft correlation code..
Thank-you for the video. I will be turning my 2014 Chevy Cruze into a garage to replace the Timing Belt. The light came on at 100k miles. But I know enough, not to have the water pump replaced and the ballpark of the cost to have this part replaced. I also know I cannot do this job myself. This one is beyond me. Simple repairs and maintenance yes, this one, no. Thanks again for the information sir.
sorry to butt in a bit but i think its worth noting that the intake cam mark is going to be slightly above the locking tools marks. the exhaust cam mark should be dead on. i had set them up both dead on and got intake cam to crank correlation code because of it. intake up ex dead on. makes no sense i know but according to GM thats how it is. verified on alldata to be sure.
Turning my chevy in tomorrow to do this , it’s a used car and it runs good but the ppl tht had it before me .. they didn’t treat it good. I had to get new brakes , oil change and new tires… now a time belt , it’s exactly 639 :(
I bought my Cruze used and cannot determine if the belt has ever been changed. It has 105,000 miles on it. I have seen where you can reset the "warning light" to change the belt. Is it safe to assume that since I see no light on the dash that the belt has been changed at some point? And is there another way to determine if it has been changed? There are no stickers that I can find on the motor that would show that it was ever changed. My guess is that it would be safer all around to just replace it?
Other than pulling off a few covers and looking at the belt there's no real way to know if it was changed recently the belt should look really good with the markings looking clean etc
Well done sir, went exactly as you demonstrated! If it helps others the torque spec for the valve cover bolts are 79 inch pound or 6.6 foot pounds. And careful with the rubber tube from the filter box to the throttle body, mine tore along one of the creases when I was pulling it off.
Cutting the old belt in half while still in place it will make enough room for the new belt to slide on then when the new belt is half way in the old one can be cut off
so you mean slice it in half length wise right? Push on the new one, then pull the rest of the old one, keeping the timing in place? Do I have that right? seems like a clever little strategy.
It's time to do this on my wife's car. Which Ironically I refer to as the hooptie. Great video, and thanks for pointing out the stupid e torx that we all hate ! Case of beer and an evening in the garage and we will be good 👍 Then the wife will stop nagging me.
Realistically if you don't work on cars all the time I would plan on a afternoon 3-4 hours . I usually knock them out faster but I work on them everyday
Dreading when I'll have to do this job. Luckily my 2014 has only 75k on it and I drive 4200 miles per year so I shouldn't hit 100k for another 6 years 😅
Thanks a lot for the video, sir! I already have the blue kit and Continental belt, tensioner and idler pullies. I decided to get the kit that includes the water pump just so I have it for if/when it dies! Time to go get 'er done! Thanks again!
thanks for the demo, helped a lot in trying figure out if I can help out a friend. I have done 4 timing chains, but never a belt...seems pretty much the same, maybe a bit easier. below, someone commented about slicing the belt in half to slip the new one on without loosing timing, how do you feel about that method? sidenote: whats your problem with eTorx is....they are a better bolt head. Have you ever rounded over an eTorx? I have not, but I have certainly round my fair share of hex heads over the years.
I have never sliced the belt to get new one but I have never had much issue getting new ones on. My thing with the etorx is it's just more tools people have to buy and as they age I am sure they could get rounded off easily. I don't have a real problem with them other than it makes people buy tools and I personally haven't really had many issues with rounding off regular bolts unless it's the 63 lincoln I just worked on lol. That was a nightmare with 60 year old bolts.
@@HooptiesGarage thanks for the speedy response. Not sure where you live, I am near chicago, lot snow and salt, bolts rust & swell. And sure you can round over literally any driver at some point, way more torque for torx /etorx vs hex key/ hex head. but the slicing the belt thing is what I am more interested in. The way I read it was as a technique to preserve timing. I have done timing chains a few times, not a belt though. -You cut the outside half of the original off, expose the outer portion of the gear teeth. -engage the the new one, now half the half the original belt is still on there and you are half way engaged with the new one and timing is preserved -cut the remaining original belt off, push the new one the rest of the way. no gears have moved, timing is preserved. thoughts? also do you happen to know if this is an interference engine? guessing it is....
@@mtraven23 yeah I have never done it that way I've done multi hundred belts usually you can tell if a gear has moved while installing it, I am sure that could work if you wanted to try it but when I do mine I am very careful and I always rotate it over twice after I install it to make sure everything is still lined up perfectly. I believe this engine is a interference engine if I remember correctly
Have you tried filming a repair like this? Getting a camera in many of these tight spots while having tools and arms in the way wouldn't be very good video. On a job like this if you need exact video reference it may not be the type of job to attempt.
I have the same set of cam and flywheel locking tools, but after positioning the flywheel locking tool in the same place as you did I tested it and it did not hold the flywheel nor the crankshaft from turning. Did you test this out after installing your lock tool? The manual recommends this before placing the camshaft locking tool in place. I believe this is because they don't want excessive force put on the camshafts alone when trying to turn/loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
I've been following the video and found even after applying the crank shaft lock pin still spins when tightening the bolt to spec. Is there a fix to this?
My light came on yesterday to change belt. Shop quoted 700 Is this something a beginner could do? I'm scared I'll get taken apart and not be able to fix
am trying to put the new timing belt on. I had the locking tool in place between the camshaft sprockets with marks for all three sprockets sitting where they needed to be. Upon attempting to slide the new belt on, I had the crankshaft sprocket on the bottom actually rotate clockwise about a 1/2 tooth. I am unable to simply rotate it back counterclockwise because the bolt is not a reverse thread and therefore doest grab going on that direction. What would you recommend at this point? I still have the top camshafts locked in place with their timing marks in the proper position.
where are you looking under the engine there? is it near the driver's side? On my 09 aveo with the 1.6 engine I'm under the car near the transmission fluid sump and the exhaust flex pipe goes passes near where the engine and transmission meet, but I just cant seem to find the inspection hole for this crankshaft lock..
@@HooptiesGarage Thank-you. The dealership wanted 750.00 without the water pump which they wanted to replace. Another garage wants around $650. And they say maybe on the water pump. After this video I will let the garage no water pump replacement. Just replace the belt and two other parts you mentioned in this video.
I really don't know I usually get gates kit from o'reilly's and have never had a problem in years but I am sure gm has a belt they would sell through dealerships
I really don't know I usually use the gates kits from o'reilly's and never had a issue with them in years but I am sure gm sells a belt through their dealerships if you aren't comfortable with aftermarket
my car has a gates power grip which also says GM on it, but when googling it acdelco is the oem, was trying to find out if the belt on mine has been changed or if its still the factory one. its in good shape but i want to verify it.
i contacted gm, they said the factory one would be acdelco, if so than mine has been changed which is all i wanted to know, that way i dont have to change it right away. the one on it now i assume is a dealer replacement.
How does the Serpentine belt tensioner come off? Do you have to lock it in place with the pin and then take out the bolt? Or can you take out the bolt with the tensioner in its natural position?
I don't think that's absolutely necessary if the bolts thread easy in and out and I don't believe they are stretch bolts. I also don't remember shopkeypro mentioning that but maybe someone else can chime in.
