Installing new boots in my father-in-law's Snapper, with a new twist can you tell what it is. The boots are from Amazon. Until next time work safe have fun and will talk to you soon. Jim
Thanks for this video. About to tackle this on my ancient snapper. The boots have been gone for years. The mower was given to me about 25 or so years ago as a junker and has more rust than paint. About two years after I got it, I replaced the original 8hp engine with a Tecumseh 10hp industrial engine. PS- The guy from Georgia told you about the Coke because it was invented there.
I'm so impressed with your snapper videos. I used the same technique as you did on this video to remove the shaft and put on two new sets. Got up and started running right away. thanks a million Jim.
Midway through renewing the boots on my Mod 14 (1993) your video makes me look like an expert. Maybe i was just lucky, but the hub and pin came off really easy using your advice. Thanks for your help, Chris (UK)
Well Chris I have a few viewers that I’ve helped in the UK but your name don’t sound familiar I hope you’re a subscriber and send me a picture of you sitting on your snap or I’d like to hang it on my wall of friends. Jim
Thanks Jim for sharing all your knowledge regarding the Snapper rear engine riding mower repair. I've had mine for about twenty years and hope I will never have to replace it. Don't think there is a better rear engine riding mower out there. With your informative videos, I should be able to handle any needed repairs. Thanks again, and keep up the good work!
I replaced the boots with the Briggs and Stratton boots and without your detailed instruction I’m sure I would have pulled what’s left of my hair out. In fact I probably would not have attempted doing it. One thing I noticed is when tightening the hose clamps around the boot tightening to mush actually squeezed the boot off of the tube so for me it was find the happy medium. Thanks Jim and I am subscribed.
I think I like this method better than removing left fender and removing the cables, etc. My flex tubes and the clutch friction disk should be delivered today. Many thanks for your carefully detailed descriptions on these procedures .....
Russell Clampitt Hi Russell Thank you for watching the videos and hopefully for subscribing I have a lot to come wouldn’t want you to miss one. Talk to you soon, Jim
i like the way you show your videos with the hard stuff happening and how to tackle the problem instead of going off camera and coming back on like it was magic or something keep up the good work i enjoy all your content ----and im in atlanta born here many moons ago l do like coke best lol..
thanks for your video...I am getting ready to replace boots and disc on a r8000 tiller...looks almost the same except there are two different length boots. One is the same as you used and the other a bit shorter.
Jim, I just did this on my electric snapper conversion. It was very hard to shift and the boots were really bad. Musta been the originals. The hex shafts were really gnarly with rust and dirt. It all went well, until step number three. The left hub was really seized on. Beating, gear puller, kroil, simultaneous hammer from both side of the hub to shock it, heat and quench... nothing worked. After your video, I went and bought the new dremel cutting discs and used 2 or 3 total to cut thru both sides of the hub and all the way thru both sides of the triangular flange too. finally chiseled the hub apart in two halves. The rest of the job went really easily after spending 3 hours on the hub removal. I polished the hex shaft with the dremel and some compound. Lubed it up and sealed up with the new black rubber boots. Shifts like butter. I love it. Thanks for the help and the heads up on the dremel.
I just picked up one that is complete and got the 9hp briggs running great. I've been watching all your vids. Thank you. The information and tutorials are great. Hoping to save and use this one.
Thanks for the great video Jim. I've been dreading replacing my axle boots. You're video explained it so well, I'll be ordering the parts tomorrow. Thanks again.
Jim i have a snapper from 1983 still working perfectly, my friends keep buying new ridding mower's after about 7yrs they are junk. I tell them buy a Snapper, and a good Woman is all a guy needs. Of course they are expensive and need to be maintained.
I had the same problem with pulling the shaft out. I used 500 and 1000 grit emery cloth, not sandpaper, and it polished the shaft beautifully. I did as you suggested and made sure that there was no grit remaining before I reinstalled the shaft.
Good to know not to cheap out on the plastic boots. I think ill try this method instead of moving the chaincase and disconnecting the cables. Happy snappin Jim
scott hillegass Give it a shot and if you need any help let me know, and please don’t forget to subscribe you would want to miss any upcoming videos. Thanks Jim
Jim, thank you for showing this easier way to change the boots. I've been taking the LH fender and chain case off. Taking the chain case off is a pain.
This and all of your videos on this rear engine snapper are going to be very very helpful for me, I have recently acquired an old 1980's I think mower of this type and it is really ruff, all Iv'e been able to do is start removing the deck and did get the engine to at least to spark. It's a model 28086S, SER#83064756 So I'm still trying to find diagrams for all aspects of this machine
Russell Puckett Parts Tree.Com Is a great source for schematics and parts list names and prices are you need is your model number and follow the pages and you can find anything you need through them. Let me know what you think. Jim
I wondered why you were drinking Coca Cola. I'm also a Pepsi guy plus I live in NC and Pepsi was born in New Bern, NC. But I've preferred Pepsi even before moving to NC. Thanks for the video. I'm trying to get as much info about replacing the boots as I can. I watched one of your other videos, I think it was #94 which also had great info about replacing the boots. Thanks again Jim.
Mark Brown Hi Mark I had a viewer write me and tell me he thought if I drink a Coke while I was repairing the snappers it would go smoother because cokes are red and so are snappers, so I tried it and it didn’t really seem to help so I went back to Pepsi.Jim
Hi Jim. New sub. This is so interesting and just what I was looking for! Thank you! Now I can speak with some level of intelligence and understand what is involved in repairing my older Snapper (I don't tell it how old it is),. I couldn't get it into reverse. A mobile service came out. One boot had apparently dry rotted or broken off altogether. The fellow didn't have any boots on his truck. He was gracious and honest in telling me he had not ever replaced boots on a Snapper and wanted to check with a fellow technician who had that type experience. Meanwhile, a friend of o friend is going to give me a hand. Thanks to your video, I know what parts, and supplies may be needed and any potential snags or things to be aware of. God bless you and your famy. Enjoy the rest of your week.
Is this Karen I’m talking to or is it Karen’s husband using Karen’s phone, I get that a lot. I get a lot of parts from Parts Tree.Com out of Texas and some I get on Amazon the black rubber boots you can get from Amazon don’t buy the gray plastic ones they don’t last and the new ones are both the same size because they stretch to fit the gray plastic ones one is longer than the other they don’t make them like that anymore, when you get it apart slide the boot on the shaft put the chain case back on slide the other boot on with the clamps of course and put the fender back on when you go to clamp the boots on shift it all the way into fifth gear that will compress the boot and force it on to the flanges where it belongs it’s much easier that way when you get that one clamp shifted into reverse and do the same process if you have any problems or issues email me I’ll answer all of them good luck and I’ll talk to you soon. Jim PS while you have it apart clean and grease the hexagon shaft it will help it shift much easier.
Any other repairs you need to do I can help you do it your self and save all the money they charge if this is Karen I have about 15 female mechanics I help a lot most of them are down south they buy these machines fix them up and sell them. Jim Another PS. Lol. I hope you’re a subscriber it will help you navigate through my videos if you go to video number 315 there is a link in the description section where you can download a list of all of my videos by title and number to help you find them I don’t think anyone else on RU-vid offers this service to their viewers.
@@jimjackson9381 Hi Jim. Thank you so much for replying and for the info!. I am definitely a Southern gal,(metro Atl.) no where near being a Spring chicken,. Between the latter, a small build of about 110 lbs, and about six months past the unwanted Chinese import, my strength and energy is a limitation on getting my Snapper stood up by myself. Have you any ideas or advice there? I do have a wooden rolling platform similar to the one you were using that would be helpful. I like to understand things and work on everything I can myself - to save money, for the enjoyment and knowing I can accomplish things on my own. I will definitely check out your other videos! Thank you again Jim.
Hello Jim, this video made it easy for me to change out boots from the old grey plastic ones to rubber boots. Same problem you had with burrs which I easily filed down. I have one question do you need to apply grease to the shaft before putting boots on? If so, any recommendations Thanks again for all you do for everyone!
Yes, if you grease your hexagon shaft, it will make shifting much easier. It doesn’t matter which type of grease you use and I would clean them in regrease them every 5 to 6 years or when it begins to shift hard Jim
I didn't see a lip seal on my friends and I told him someone else must have had the mower before you whenever he bought it brand new i noticed that soon after I flipped his mower up that part is missing I do work on my other mowers and they have seals and caps on each side of the axles
I don't know I guess I'd do it either way on taking it off for now though I'm just doing what's bad and broken open so i guess when the right side boot splits I'll put a new one on whenever that will be
I just ordered the same ones on Ebay, $15.37 free shipping. I was looking for the ones like the ones on my mower, [one long -one short] but I guess they don't make them anymore. Now I know that the new ones will work. Thanks.
@@jimjackson9381 I have read about those gray ones. I watched you put the black ones on, so I knew they would work. You are the go to Snapper guy. Thanks.
Tony A Hi Tony I’ll have to say no sponsorship with Coke or Pepsi. One of my viewers thought the videos would go better with Coke because Coke is red and so are snappers, so I tried it not really sure It went any better or worse, so I went back to Pepsi. Jim
Dear Teatcher,I found the answer or I understood on this video the replacement of white booting (looks like plastic ) by a new one in caoutchouc (made in China )ThanksAlain from South of France
Well, I did notice the Coke. Coke no longer says, "Things go better with Coke", so maybe they did a sneak formula change on us, only this time didn't tell us. So I guess I'd better get me some Pepsi's before I attempt my boot change. Now for the stinking part. Just today my boots came in the mail. Got them off eBay. I thought they looked more "heavy duty" than the originals on the mower that I need to replace. Well, I wish I'd watched this video first. Didn't know these were cheap quality. So I guess that's ten bucks down the commode, and I now need to buy the B&S ones. At least now I know also why the part numbers I was seeing online were the same number for both sides. No more straight section. Oh well, ten dollars worth of education. I sure ain't gonna put the cheapies on now. Thanks for the heads-up Jim!
BeingRomans829ed Yes they no longer make two different size boots the new black rubber one stretch with no issues so they make them both the same size. Jim
So I picked the right boots then I'm only doing the left boot is what's split open I don't think I'll have much trouble doing his he kept his mower outside covered up but that still doesn't keep water from getting in on the metal I'll know when i start in on that if anything is rusted up he use to keep his in the shed but said it got harder for him to store it in there I can understand that I might help em make a small mower port like a car port thing but for his mower sense he has trouble getting it in the shed
Hello Jim, I am very grateful for the advice you have given me, this weekend I took the opportunity to clean the hexagonal bar, I left it very clean, the gear lever is clean without rust, it does not have a rubber protective cover, everything is very clean I have managed to make the lever move since everything was blocked and I have been able to make the gear block move but in the corners both on the left side it costs a lot and it stays embedded and the right side is loose but I don't know It is at the end of the whole, you can tell me what kind of fat I have to put on the bar. Thank you very much for your attention. Thanks and a hug.
L CP Can you send me a couple pictures to my email so I can get a better idea of what you’re talking about my email is jimsfixitshop@gmail.com Thanks Jim
As always Jim I enjoyed your video. I was thinking you would put grease on the shaft so the shifter would work easier. I think I saw you this recently on a maintenance video. Any reason you didn’t do so hear?
Good morning Jim. You mentioned using paint thinner to clean the chain case(without having to open the case). Can the same procedure be done to the differential?
Gabe Guerrero Hi Gabe Hi suppose you could try it it all depends on how all dried up the snapper little bit is if it’s a newer machine and it still in a fairly liquid state It could clean it out but if it’s dried up and really thick I don’t know if it would work or not. Thanks Jim
My snapper, same one as in the video, is running great. This makes me want to disassemble and lube it up for another 20+ years of excellent service. My previous snapper self propelled finally got so old that they stopped making parts for it. Jim, if it is working great what should I do to keep it running for a long time? Differential lube , replace rubber drive wheel, and lube wheels and shifter?
MrMysticSeer Hi it’s Jim Well it’s best to stand them up and grease everything you can find with a grease fitting on it. Check to differential and chain case and see if it needs more lube added to it if you’re going to change it it would probably be a good idea to clean it all out before you go to something different. Jim
Hi Jim i need some help i have a 33 inch snapper that moving, i get off of it and it moves ok on the ground, the engine disc is touching the rubber disc, i looked underneth while standinf up. the boot is ripped and there is grease on the break pad also leaking out grease on the flange bearing by right tire by diferrential. would any of those have have a factor of it moving correctly do you have any videos how to fix these problems, i replace a boot before but not sure what i should try and fix would the ripped boot interfear with it moving? the trannmission seems good, hope you can help thanks
Jim, I have been working on my 68 Comet. When I had the drive train apart I had that hexagonal washer like this one plus just one nylon washer. Why did you put 3 washers in? Also I'd like to email you. Thanks.
Michael Meredith Hi Michael The nylon washers are to aluminate side play in your axle depending on how much side play you have due to the face of your bushings wearing will determine how many thrust washers you have to add. You can email me at. jimsfixitshop@gmail.com anytime you need help with any issues that you may have. Thanks Jim
I received by boots and Kit Friction Ring from B&S yesterday. The boots made in China but the ring is made in USA. I expected all parts to be from China. You have an older video regarding removal of the boots that seems to be easier?
Gabe Guerrero Hi Gabe Which ever video seems easiest for you and can help you save money that’s why I’m doing this thanks for watching don’t forget to subscribe talk to you soon Jim
I watched your video several times... before I attempted to replace the boots on my snapper 3314520BVE. So far I have 6 hours invested... and all I have managed to do is remove the rear tire. That wheel hub IS NOT coming off... EVER. I have used a can of PB Nut-blaster (soak/wait, soak/wait, etc.), broke MY wheel puller, rented a 5 ton three-jaw wheel puller and destroyed it (broke one jaw and warped the threaded drive shaft), and gone through two canisters of propane gas trying to heat it to loosen it. Tomorrow I shall drag it to the end of the driveway and spend a minimum of 6 hours... beating it with a damn sledge hammer. Think I will invest in some goats. They don't have boots.
OK... sorry for the rant. 6 hours of beating on a piece of metal seems to bring out the worst in me. Amazing what a good meal and some sleep will do for a person's mental state. Again... sorry for the rant.
B.J. Boyette Hi it’s Jim Sorry for the delay I’ve been a little busy. Usually when The wheels flanges are stuck that bad it is easier to cut them in half and replace them with new ones, I have videos showing and explaining how to do this. if you need any help doing this please let me know. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Thanks Jim... I used an angle grinder to cut off one of the tabs, then cut a slot in the flange collar, wedged my chisel in the slot... and off it slid. I wound up cutting a little groove into the shaft in the process, but I am gonna call that a "advanced engineering lube groove". The process continues... as it turns out whoever worked on it before I got it "definitely" had a few washers and spacers left over when they were done. The differential cover is gonna make an excellent ashtray. Thanks again.
I wonder if you could just use a rubber or poly bearing boot cover from another mower and just cut a 1/2 hole in it and then force it over the shaft to make a seal.
I loaned my snapper rider to my son. It needs some work. I have tried to remove the hub pin (tapered bolt) and just have had all sorts of trouble. I used his hydraulic jack to raise the machine just a bit and used a hammer as you illustrated but to no success. The hydraulic jack was not a skinny platform so I inserted a socket between the jack and around the tapered end of the bolt pressing on the hub. Even a 5 pound hammer could not dislodge the bolt. Next was drilling out the tappered end of the bolt using a 1/4 inch bit which stopped (I think) when it came to the axle. The bolt still does not show any signs of moving. I need another method. What can I do?
Eastern Cowboy Hi it’s Jim All the boots are the same I would buy them from Amazon and look for the black rubber boots not the gray plastic ones. Thanks Jim
Marty McGill Yes I did grease the hexagon shaft I just didn’t show it at the time it is very important to keep that greased so it shifts easier, and don’t forget to subscribe you wouldn’t want to miss any upcoming videos, thanks Jim
Why do you fight with dry parts....When putting it back together grease the shaft...a thin film of grease helps dry parts slide much better....Just saying
Wait, why didn't you take apart those gear cases and drained them while you had the whole thing apart ? If you cracked the cases open you could clean all the old grease out .
I’ve never been able to buy anything brand new I’ve always bought old stuff and head to fix it so I guess over the course of the last 35 years I remembered some of the stuff I had to do to keep things running. Jim
Jerry Craig Hi Jerry The number for the shim Is 7011 071YP and They are $2.40 at Parts Tree.Com Sales you may be of the find them cheaper on Amazon or eBay thanks Jim
Jim I have to ask you also what is the part number of the lip seal you removed in this video. My hub was so tight I had to cut the hub off with my torch which damage the factory cup but I did get the hub off with no damage to my axle. Thanks again !
Jerry Craig Hi Jerry Did you damage the dust cap and the Lip seal or do you just need the lip seal. Let me know, If you have your model number of your machine that would also help.thanks Jim
Jim, you state in the video there is a place to purchase the dust cap and seal for the right side (what Id call passenger side) axle....do you have a part number or link to that seal? Thank you
danbaileyphotostudio OK these part numbers are from Parts Tree.Com. And as you’re sitting on your machine the right hand side part number and description is Dust cap Number 70317 32YP and it is $3.52 The seal is number 7011817YP and it is $3.19 The left side of your machine as you were sitting on it The dust cap number is 7031732YP and it is $3.52( they use the same dust cap on both sides) The seal number is 7014662YP and it is $5.76 I hope this helps you out. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 - I watched your entire video and either I missed the answer to my question or you didn't cover it. If I understand you correctly, you install both a dust cap and a seal on both sides. You gave the part numbers above.I do not see mentioned on a parts schematic for my machine (mine is a model #301213BE, serial #35247670) both parts. 1) Is it correct for me to assume that you install the seal facing the bushing/bearing and then slip the dust cap over the top of the entire end of the shaft? 2)Can I also assume there is enough space for both the cap and seals before the wheel/tire is installed? 3) The fender on the left (driver) side has a plastic insert that the axle shaft runs through. Mine is broken/cracked in several places. Will the seal/dust cover set up you're suggesting above take the place of this plastic insert or do I need to find a replacement plastic insert? if I have to replace it, do you know the part number? Thanks. Excellent video! -dennis
@Jim Jackson- I figured out that the plastic insert I referred to in the left fender is in fact the old style dust cap. So I'm going to remove it and use the dust caps you suggest. Another question I failed to ask: is it safe to assume that there is enough space to clamp these dust caps onto the bushing/bearing? If so, what clamp did you use that has given you the best success?
I get my parts from Parts Tree.Com. out of Texas great place to deal with nice website and you can even call them and a person will answer the phone. Jim
Hola buenos días, he comprado un tractor cortacesped Snapper Model 28127BE en España, y la palanca de marchas y marcha atras no funciona está muy dura al parecer la rompieron de lo dura que va, yo la he soldado bien y tengo el tractor en posicion de pie para poder reparar le falta las gomas para engasar la direccion y como he dicho no funfuona la palanca de marchas por favor me puede ayudar. Gracias
Hello good morning, I bought a Snapper Model 28127BE lawnmower in Spain, and the gear and reverse lever does not work, it is very hard, apparently they broke it from how hard it is, I have welded it well and I have the tractor in position of foot to be able to repair it is missing the rubbers to crimp the direction and as I said the gear lever does not function, please can you help me. Thank you Leonardo
L CP It sounds like you have to clean and grease the hexagon shaft underneath the boots that may help, and it sounds like the shift handle itself is rusty and sticky you’ll have to take off the linkages from the shift handle compress the spring and take the shifter apart and clean and greased the inside under the spring to get it to work properly. Jim
Hey Jim, where's a good place to get original color snapper red? I'd prefer paint I can shoot with a paint gun, but rattlecan will work also. I found a supplier that has oem labels. I have a model three I use everything week to mow my yard and it works great, just looks ratty and faded from 40+ years of use
I get them from Parts Tree.Com. although they don’t come split anymore they’re around and you have to cut a piece out of them over the axle so you don’t have to disassemble anything. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 do you happen to have the part number? I can't seem to find it on parts tree. I'm replacing both boots and found them on Amazon as you suggested so the washers won't have to be split hopefully.
