20hz from a $20 Subwoofer? Budget Build? 

123Toid if your selling the box I would buy

123Toid I try using this GRS sub today I was using a rockford prime 5.25 coaxial speaker but after I use the GRS subs for the midrange my sound is 500 percent better the reason I do this is because I was having a hard time getting my prime 5.25 inch speakers to play 100 hertz now the GRS subwoofer does everything way better I am shocked except I don't allow my GRS play any bass sound its not good at making bass sound with the speaker box I am using

Shove 2 in the box

Can you guys please link me a amplifier that is suitable for this I'm gonna only buy 1 of these subwoofer please link me a amplifier board that is suitable for this BTW I'm doing this at home not at my dads car so this is a home theater setup.

What about distortion?

But why? :D

Make a video

Really? This was my first go with them. I must say, I too love poly cones. I know not everyone lieks them, but I have always been a fan of them. Parts Express looks to still be still offering it - www.parts-express.com/grs-10sw-4-10-poly-cone-subwoofer-4-ohm--292-482 I may take this and turn it into a much smaller box for my diy sound bar. I personally have been pleased with the sound as well.

Check out my video "Satellite Subwoofer Speakers" where I use one in a very successful active speaker system.

I'll do that right now. I'm looking forward to seeing it!

I have the 8 inch version in my home office setup and a built a monster box for the 12 inch version of this sub for my basement theater system. The 8 sounds great in the office and the 12 is ok. More time is need to dial the 12 in since I don't use that very often.

It's all about getting the alignment right. The ten inch version offers a moderate sized vented alignment, don't know about the 8 and 12 inch versions. Sealed alignments and small vented alignments don't sound near as good to my ears. Check out my video "Bass Speakers" for more info: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SWZyWeVQYd8.html

I modeled the 12sw-4 in HornResp and it doesn't really want to hit those lows no matter how big I make the line... Like, really big and it still won't

I would love to see a video of this when you finish it.

Post a vid about it!

Where are measurements dude :(

@@DeathRono sorry, I didn't saw the notifications :) Here are 2 videos, in French however: 1. Nvidia control at ~115-120dBZ peak SPL ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jfjVvNXlVVA.htmlfeature=shared 2. Another longer video where I compared the bass wall of 16x GRS 12SW-4 12" versus an "infraflex" prototype ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K_t_rukBHE4.htmlfeature=shared

@D4rk51d332 @Stan_the_Belgian @DeathRono Sorry, didn't saw the notifications :P Here are 2 videos, in French though: 1. Nvidia control trailer with =~115-120dBZ peak SPL (=~105-110dBC SPL), my door entrance was vibrating xD: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jfjVvNXlVVA.html 2. Another video where I compare the wall made of 16x GRS 12SW-4 12" drivers versus an "infraflex" prototype: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K_t_rukBHE4.html Sound was really really good, but today I use another prototype for reproducing the low part of the audio spectrum (

lmao I'll take the free option then if that's the case

You are thinking in the right direction, but the enclosure will be huuuge - 20hz horns require big mouths, and proper loading needs lenght = huge box

Maybe a t-line?

I would just go 4th order with a cheap sub. T-line needs to be large no matter what's in it.

That high Q a driver in a horn will need an even bigger box or the motion will just be choked off. It's the wrong type of driver for bang for your space. It needed a huge box and low tuning cause of the crappy motor.

Impulse Audio Thanks!

I;m really looking forward to seeing the rest of your Life S5 build. That is an awesome build! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AbkvGmoITpA.html

Lol, most people would. I am just that crazy, I guess :)

That’s not saying it can’t play beyond 30hz. That spec especially for a subwoofer can be confusing. The best thing to do is to model it to see what it can do in the enclosure you design. In fact I ended up redesigning a subwoofer using these subs and it is quite impressive: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CvUjWNwPHDU.htmlsi=OaEHoUYu2cNM2ARs

Aydin Lobas "can play" What level of sound pressure do they put out? 100db of noise? 20Hz Is breathtaking at 100dB. Thing with subwoofers is that the lower the FS and QMS the lower the efficiency, therefore lower sensitivity... 4" drivers usually have FS around 120Hz in which case they are ALL midrange drivers, or just hyped bullshit.

Lol my 9mm earplugs can go to 20hz. Aint that cool. Although id consider my Ground Zero 38XSPL-D2 a little bit louder at 20hz

Since when is 20hz at 100db breathtaking? That’s really not loud or intense at all.

My Phone can play 20 Hz

The Tech Guy By Aidan Shane Wade my 0,001" play 1 Hz tho

They really are a great value. I ended up using it in my latest build, where I cloned a Definitive Technology speaker with built in powered sub: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lo7gQGEiI2E.html&t

That's a great question. I actually did that with four of these found here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CvUjWNwPHDU.html it is crazy impressive for the price!

Wow that is really impressive! I may have to pick one of those up to play around with. Ported or sealed?

It's one heck of a 10 for the price and I would definitely recommend it to anyone looking for a deep SQ sub on a budget! I thought about going with the 12, but that needed a notably bigger box and I wanted to keep the box relatively small. Mine is ported around 22Hz.

I am pretty impressed with the sub. You really can't ask for more for the price you are paying.

houseoffire72 I think I actually have an 10 inch classic woofer. I was working on a three-way design with it

123Toid they work nice in a 3way. Try it as a sub like I mentioned with specs. Its really pretty impressive for what it is. I built my box with 2 layers of 3/4" mdf.

houseoffire72 MI

That's not how that works.

@@Toid That's interesting if it can get to 20Hz I would like to try to build one but why does the manufacturer puts Frequency Response is from 34 to 800Hz if it can get to 20Hz? It must have some limitations compared to other much more expensive subwoofers.

Absolutely. There are a lot of things that could be done. One thing, is you could do an isobaric with this sub, and make it considerably smaller (4cubic ft) and still get the same response. Or you can make it eve smaller, but you'll lose response. If you kept it this size, it might be a great behind the couch subwoofer, end table or coffee table.

lexzbuddy .... musically speaking, there's nothing below 32 Hz. 20 Hz is considered the bottom end of human hearing for a young person, which is still a stretch for everyone else.

Thanks! I appreciate that!

indopleaser liken... did they teach you that in school?

Sadly your driver isn't from tang band.. you see. The only logitech system that did actually have tang bad drivers were the logitech z560 speakers back in the early 2000s. and those drivers didnt have a logitech logo on it. try reaudio.com/box.php to design your own box. and see where it takes you. ive used it quite a few times and it works great

It is really hard to make a ported box for a subwoofer without it's T/S parameters. However you can build a tool to get those fairly cheap: techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/1313049-easy-zma-and-t-s-parameters-using-the-limp-module-in-arta-an-illustrated-guide If you want a high end one, you can buy a nice one from Parts Express: www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dats-v2-computer-based-audio-component-test-system--390-806 Once you have your T/S parameters it is very easy to make a box tuned to your subwoofer

Lukáš Pastva but of copyrights he can’t use real music

Or you know - none

Ryan's Bryan, will do

FSXgta thank you!

Yup. Here's the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CvUjWNwPHDU.html

a speaker cone moving at 20 hz and a speaker cone reproducing sound at 20 hz are not the same thing. any woofer/sub woofer can move its cone at 20 hz but those that can actually reproduce sound down to 20 hz without blowing up are usually expensive... real expensive like in a 10 grand+ range. a qts of 0.63 is unusually high, you won't find many drivers having that kind of qts on the market especially not that cheap.

Did 4 of them here: this is tremendous! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CvUjWNwPHDU.html

@@Toid thats awesome !!! , do they sound decent or are they just low end monsters?

@@hiviman they sound good. You can actually read more about it on the forum. There's at least one of the guy over there that's built it. You can get his impressions as well. toidsdiyaudio.com/community/diy-subwoofers/iso-100-build-20hz-for-under-100/#post-6117

@@Toid ok thanks for the info an good vids

Got a video?

Ichigo Bankai are you saying this video is going to make it more popular? If so, thank you

You should check out the Iso100 build I did

​@@Toid I wonder if I can make a 2 driver version and simply split the enclosure in half?

Haha, good call

If you haven't seen it. You should check out when I put 4 of these in an iso box. The performance is insane! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CvUjWNwPHDU.html

@@Toid yo that’s freakin tight

@@Toid ACTUALLY ALREADY WATCHED IT LOL

Nice 😁 pretty soon I'm going to throw that in a subwoofer shootout. I want to put that up against the CSS sdx12 and two different 15-in subwoofers. All DIY. I'm really curious how well it'll perform versus those. Overall, I'm just excited to see which one I like the best.

michael baum I am using rew. Although that first measurement was off. Unfortunately had some bad equipment I gave me a bad reading. Look in the description for the actual graph. Jeff bagby's passive crossover designer also has a box model modeling tool in it. There is also another one on his download site: audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/jbagby.html Finally there is Unibox.

I did a series on how to figure that out using WinISD found here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ol7K5wQrFAg.html I hope it helps

You do for this $20 subwoofer. SVS manufacturers their own drivers to fit their parameters and many manufactureres of subwoofers have a DSP built-in to get a better low end response. it is pretty neat to see what some companies like SVS and HSU can do.

123Toid Yeah that’s true, the driver in the PB-1000 is pretty boring besides the massive surround and like 2 - 2.5 inches of excursion. It’s pretty expensive for most people but definitely the craziest 10 inch i’ve ever heard or seen. I don’t think any subwoofer play flat down to 20 Hz without ANY eq. But really interessing project, i enjoyed this video :D

For this build, the box size is listed at 4:15

a full range pa woofer would be better for a guitar amp

That's a great question. It's really two fold. The first's is you want to get to about twenty hertz, since movies do have sound that go down to 20 Hertz. another reason why you wanted to knit lower than you would have car subwoofer is due to room game and or cabin game period in a car you have a lot of cabin game because it's such a small space, which can help hiy those lower frequencies. In a home, you have a much larger space insert your room game is going to be much less and therefore you're going to have to tune it lower.

@@Toid ok so what size ported box and tune would u recomend going with for the dayton audio 18in classics dcs450-4 my room is 20ft long by 12 ft wide i have enough room to build a 15 cu ft box if i needed too i like car sub boxed built to 35hz if that would give u a idea of what im after is the most spl i can get and most sq i can get kinda 50/50

Harold Powell Youd dig deeper without taking too much space with a sealed box with that driver!

Larry, you are probably used to a lot of car and commercial subwoofers, which most of what you stated would be true. When designing and building your own subwoofers you can control air port velocity, which can make port noise completely inaudible. Unfortunately most manufacturers don't do this for a variety of reasons. The first, is typically the box has to be bigger than what most manufacturers want. This is due to the fact that in order to reduce or eliminate port noise, the port would have to be bigger, which also increase the length of the port, ehich then increase the size of the box. So instead, manufacturers put it in a much smaller port, flare it mightly and hope you don't mind the port noise. Not ideal by any means. However, a properly designed ported or passive radiator setup can sound just as good as a sealed. You are right, about the musical notes. However, for home theater the magic number to hit is 20 hz. It is pretty neat, as this sub was inaudible at 20hz (like it should) but you feel the power all around you. It actually shook things over 10 feet away, but with no audible sound. Of course, bass 20hz and under should be felt not heard. Great comment. Thanks for all your time to write it!

Actually I have no interest in auto subwoofers, and I find your response and its tone patronizing to assume so. Even Parts Express, which is not otherwise known for serious information, has some data about this. Suggest you read it. The concept has nothing to do with port diameter and rush, it has to do with the physics of the cone coming back to rest after the initial pulse as opposed to continuing to wooble/oscillate after the first pulse, which give more noise/output but less pure notes. Have you not seen drummers in a symphony put the hands of the skin of a kettle drum after they hit it? This is why.

larry, I am sorry if you felt I was being patronizing, that was never my intention. Just for clarification I did say "car and commercial subwoofers." The commercial subwoofers I was referring to were home audio. You are always welcome to a difference of opinion. There is very little learning without it. And my only intentions are to teach and learn from others. Having said that, if you look up the highest rated audiophile subwoofers you will see both sealed and ported designs. There are benefits to both. In fact the Golden Ear Trinitron series, which is a renowned reference loudspeaker line exclusively has powered ported subwoofers built into their tower speakers. They along with many others have been able to produce reference sound from ported subwoofers. SVS is another manufacturer that prides themselves on high quality sound. They even go into great detail of the differences in ported and sealed here: www.svsound.com/blogs/svs/75367747-sealed-vs-ported The basics of the article states that sealed will typically sound better for critical music listening (note the word typically). Even they know this is not always the case. They even note later that their ported design is on par with their sealed from 30hz to 120hz, the typical music bandwidth. You are welcome to bring new facts to the table that I may not be aware of. But in my experience of building and testing subwoofers, a properly tuned ported subwoofer can sound just as good a sealed subwoofer and can get lower extension without the need for room gain.

Larry, you say Patronizing ? WTH ?!?! Butthurt Much ? Geeze,,, Smh...

Yes just play at a lower volume and be careful. Your amp might start getting warm

@Nobby Heads you mean 2, 4ohm in serial or parallel in 1 speaker? That becomes a 8ohm, speaker?? Didnt know that... Amazing if that's the case

You should watch this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CccMMFL0_Nc.html