21:1 Compression 6.7L 12 valve PART 3: Final Assembly, Near Death, Important Steps, and First Fire! 

Thanks homes! I’ll take ya fer a rip next time im up in your terf 🤘 or send me down one of your greasy cores and I’ll whip one together that’s Peg-proof

Thanks for the support! Appreciate the comment. I’m working on getting more out, been taking a short break :)

Thanks for watching the whole thing! Expect to see more videos of it soon if you love how it sounds!

Hell yeah! The 12v is so much easier to work on than the 24v head. Half the parts having it all external!

They’re shut off with sockets inside them I think haha! I need a hypergate top for them so they open at 45psi or so. I may swap out the 77mm To a HE351VE

So I’m not sure if I said it in the video, but I went to a 6.7L starter and it helped out. The 5.9L starters will do 2.7KW, as high as 3.0KW with a really good one, the 6.7L starter is 2.7KW for a cheapo and 3.3 or 3.6KW for a good one (Wilson, Bosch) I’ve put the 6.7L starter on a regular 12v and it’s all bolt on just need a large female spade connector for the trigger wire (or the OE wire end) Having a good battery with high cranking amps helps, AMG battery’s rip and have more consistent cranking vs lead acid can drop off on voltage quicker. Could do a 1/0 battery cable to the starter (CE auto electric sells a kit) or just a new 2/0 welding cable. I did see that Mean Green sells a 6.7L Cummins “high torque” starter and it’s a different model starter off some application that I haven’t been able to figure out… but they did. So there’s a potential 3rd option out there.

@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge Awesome information on the starters! Thanks!

Numerous benefits Easier starting Better fuel mileage Better low end power Quicker turbo spool Can make more power with less injection duration/timing Less boost needed to make the same power as a lower compression engine There’s a couple more that I can’t remember at the moment but there’s very little downsides to it. Compression is king, it’s commonly lowered in sled pulling applications to move the power band of the engine higher up so that it’ll rev more/have peak torque higher. I could maybe see the IDI guys lowering compression for the purpose of having the engine live should it have weak rods, but a Cummins is a brute of a engine so it’s not a issue. The whole “lower compression for more boost” thing has to do with how much power the engine makes. Let’s say a extremely rough example with no specific accurate figures listed. Engine A is 10:1 compression Engine B is 20:1 compression Engine A with 30psi of boost makes 300hp at 2000rpm Engine B with 30psi of boost makes 300hp at 1000rpm The rods of engine A and engine B will bend at 1000ft/lbs So engine A with 1000ft/lbs can take 100psi Whole engine B with 1000ft/lbs only needs 50psi so when you try to put 100psi to it it’ll bend the rods

I got your email and replied but I figure I should reply here as well should anyone else be interested in them It’ll be a little while yet before I return to production with the 2nd Gen trans crossmembers as I need to revise my process of making them to be less time consuming

I think when I initially fired it in this video it was running grade 12.9 socket head cap screws, and I later went with ARP 2000s I’ve ran a O ringed head and ARP 2000s before with good success on a 12v with a S362 into S475, the trick is to do 3 retorques to allow the o rings to crush down. 1st one when you put it together The next after 2-3 heat cycles (up to temp, back to cold) And the last after 100 miles or so, low power but driving around. A re-torque being to back the fastener of half a turn or a until it’s loose, re lube (if it’s washed off), and go straight to spec, you’ll get quite a bit more “clamp” out of it. Also, next time you have the head off check your O ring wire protrusion. It should be 10-16 thou. If it’s 4-7 thou then whoever machined the head set it up for a MLS gasket.

Unfortunately I think I only have 1 video, when I got to the first track for the race the truck leaked from the front cover and the trans got hot so I had to pull out of the event I’ll be back this year

I have one here (RP39, the big one) and I’m good friends with Zach Urban, it’s honestly probably going to be a thing I just want to drive the truck a little bit before making the switch!

@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge I have a RP43 I got from Zach going on a triple turbo 24v