HHK (Hazardous Hotrod Knowledge) is a small Canadian based RU-vid channel and diesel performance company, specializing in 1994 to 2002 Dodge Ram trucks but extending beyond to cover a wide variety of diesel and high performance related topics.
Builds, Products, and videos in the works: •1968 Chevrolet Nova with a Duramax and NV4500 •Tube chassis 1969 Dodge Dart with a 6.7L 12 valve Cummins •High compression 6.7L 12 valve for a frame off restored 2001 Dodge Ram •1991 R32 GTR with a Mercedes’ OM648 in-line 6 diesel •1991 E30 BMW with a ford small block 302 swap •Mercedes OM606 hot rodding and potential P pump swap •Column lock anti theft device for 94-02 dodge and other trucks •bolt in aluminum MVB shifter stand •P pump electronic tuner •Winter Preparation video for your vehicle •diesel fuel economy mods and tracking
Great video. I've got an '01 w/47 RE. 253K miles. I bought it in 2014 w/118k miles. It has a remanufactured VP44 in it that still works fine. I'm just thinking about what to do whenever it goes bad. Great series!
I've put a 12/24 valve sae2 housing on the back of a 6.7. It isn't a direct bolt on. It requires more modification than just the o-ring cam tunnel seal. There are two bolt holes that don't line up. One is about half a hole off and the other around an inch off if I remember correctly. The bosses for these hole don't touch the block in the right spot either so it isn't as simple as just drilling new holes. You also have to grind on the sae2 housing some to clearance for the rear main seal housing and bolts or it won't sit flat on the back of the block. To my knowledge there never was any sae2 or 3 housings for front gear train (Dodge style) 5.9 and 6.7 common rail engine. To my knowledge every common rail that has a sae housing is rear gear train and that housing makes up half of the gear case.
I have a V-8 with a p-pump. Would these modifications still be the same? It's in a tractor of mine and I am relatively new to the world of mechanical injection.
Ive done the 2nd gear lock up mod, now when i locked it up in 2nd it shifts to 3rd then locks up while still in the 2nd gear selection on my b&m fmvb shifter... any ideas?
Great video! I have been trying to troubleshoot a problem where my 01 on max ac or just top vent always will blow air to the feet vents also. I’m sure it’s a problem with the door like you showed but is there any way to fix that without removing the hvac box?
People really selling these harnesses for 1-1.5k? 😮 I have a complete 2nd gen wire harness, pickup it’s theirs $50. I support the hobby not doing it for money. They want the truck we can talk details.
As I recall the really wide bowl in say an 05, pistons would tend to have issues seizing when making big power & why they went back to the narrower design bowls? Do you have a dyno to test your builds, know Rob planned on getting one but hasn't got there yet as far as we know. Very interesting build! The larger bore I would think would require more fuel than the sb CR, wouldn't it be even more efficient to run a sb vs bb?
How are these supposed to work from factory? My seatbelts have never locked, until one day randomly while running errands the driver seat belt locked. The next day I decided to poke around and see if I could fix it and now the belt is unlocked again.
I didn't catch the fan belt nunber for the fan and a/c delete. If you have that handy I'd liek to know that. Thabks for all the cool content on here and IG!
No also would you have to change injectors when you do this hence the injector is going to be getting a lot more fuel through the spray nozzle than what it is supposed to be getting and is the delivery valves in a p7100 pump have to also be changed to keep up with a pumping capacity to a stock OEM setup or can you leave them two things OEM and just drill the holes and this one will work fine the way that you're doing it
Any tricks I’m missing I replaced the crank sensor in my 06 5.9. Was getting intermittent long crank every once in awhile. Figured I’d change sensor which it was pretty beat up . After changing don’t run. So I have the new sensor for the cam shaft I swap them out . Still nothing
Hey man appreciate the video. Got an old 2nd gen cummins needs new fenders and bed. Planning on going to thw junkyard for new(new to me) fenders and a bed maybe
I had to replace my power steering pump and then the shaft seal of the vacuum pump inside of the little adapter piece. Started to leak like crazy right away so I went and got a seal kit and replaced it by watching your video perfect video but when I went to go bolt power steering pump on the vacuum pump I did not notice that that seal came loose and slid forward towards the little + looking adapter piece, even though I hit it with a hammer and a socket like you said when I put it all back together, oil started to pour out of there so I had to take everything back out and find that that seal didn’t fit quite right in there so I RTV it in to get me home because I was stuck at work, what do you suggest?
I have been told that the Carter pump is not available & that Cummins sells you a Chinese pump as a replacement. I would like to replace the mounting bolts with a stud kit.
That is true I was having problems with about four lifts pumps I went through through O'Reilly's and also one through AutoZone they were all similar alike Chinese brand the original one was made in Sweden or Switzerland I believe it was on the truck that was OEM I could not find the original one lower parts to rebuild it I was going to set up a fass fuel system but it was going to set me back about 8 to 900 so I left it alone and wind up getting lucky with the last one I got through O'Reilly's and it's been working ever since there's really not that much difference one difference compared to the OEM that was on this truck originally and never was changed from 1996 was the part that was made in Switzerland it was o e was the plastic on top of where the plunger is that you pump with your finger was made out of aluminum where are all the aftermarket ones even the ones from Cummins are all Chinese Japanese made knockoffs made with plastic
A p-pumped 6.7 is what I would build if I could. I was looking into it years ago and it appeared far more daunting than you made it seem. You're not too far from being able to assemble a kit. Really appreciate your level of detail and focusing on the parts you are describing for visual reference. I've never driven a 6.7 Cummins. Is all of the effort worth it for more torque, compression, and air closer to idle than just boring a 12 valve for larger pistons, swapping in a better cam, head porting, larger valves, and maybe having it stroked? I would have stuck with a 12 valve head for simplicity with fewer moving parts as well. Really looking forward to an updated video after you have performed more tuning for a description of its behaviors!
