I’ve watched a lot of videos on removing the 260b backhoe and always had trouble getting the pins lose. Paused the video right after I saw you remove the pins. My outriggers were pushed down hard on the ground. I brought them up until they were just above the ground and barely set them down. The pins came right out!! Really easy. Thank you. Oh, I’ve owned the 1025r also with loader and 60” mower deck since May 2022 and just now learning this correctly. Thanks again!
Just picked my 1025r up today and am obviously still trying to learn quite a bit about how things work. Nice video, if and when I take the backhoe off this will be a nice guide.
If you have any questions feel free to ask. Also, if you haven't already, check the forum GreenTractorTalk.com. Lots of good folks and info and they have a section just for our tractors.
Do not relieve the pressure with the handles as suggested or the BH will settle , the 2 lines you are disconnecting are power beyond and will depressurize as soon as you turn the tractor off unlike the FEL lines.
Thank you! Well detailed as the last vid. I was wondering if you would consider doing a video on ALL the grease zerks on the tractor, mid mount mower, loader, and backhoe. Just an idea. Thanks
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment. I have a video where I did the hard to get zerk on the tractor driveshaft. Have you seen that one? When the weather clears up some, I can do one on all the attachments if you like.
@@TractorMonkeywithJL Thanks for the reply! I have heard of a couple of "hard to get to" zerks on the tractor and no, I didn't know you have already done it. Sorry about that. I will search for it. I just got my 1025R a week ago and I'm having a blast with it here in Iowa. Warm temps are great! I really enjoy your video's. I love the detail and they are easy to follow. Keep up the good work! I'll be watching. ;-)
I do have a question concerning the mower you have on this tractor. What size is it? 54 or 60 inch? I don't know which to buy is why I'm asking. There's a 300 dollar difference between the two. Thanks for your time!
Just took my off yesterday, first JD tractor I ever owned, and was struggling connecting the hoses together, you almost have to kinc the hose to fit into each other couplings. I also had hard time push the male into the female connection, it's like it had pressure on the pin inside.
If you talking about the pins that attach the hoe to the tractor frame, then no, the holes you see on the outriggers are too small. I see where you are going with this. Seems like you could use those pins to hold the outriggers in place to prevent sagging while in storage. That could be an idea but there are two problems. Those pins would not be long enough to span the width of the outrigger frame, and those holes don't really line up in any useful way even if the holes were bigger. I suppose you could drill custom holes in the correct position and use some long bolts to secure the outriggers in place. If a pin was used in the outriggers, there would need to be plenty of slop in the holes to relieve the pressure when reinstalling so those pins could be pulled back out. Maybe that is why there is no mention of that solution in the manual.
@@TractorMonkeywithJL out of machinist fabricator and mechanic, if you're anywhere around Fredericksburg Virginia I can make it happen, I would engineer a bolt on kit so I can sell it to all you guys. My green line dealership does not have any truckers in stock for me to even measure of it
I noticed that you had a bungee cord wrapped around your four-wheel-drive lever? I'm assuming is it because it pops into four-wheel-drive occasionally? There's been numerous times that I thought I was in 2 Wheel Dr. only to look down and see that it was in four-wheel-drive. Is that why you did that to yours?
Sharp eye. Actually, the bungee chord is there to hold the flap up on the mower deck when I park it in the shop due to space. I drilled a small hole in the flap to hook it to the chord when not in use. The four wheel drive lever was just a place to wrap the chord. I haven't had any problems with mine staying in two wheel drive.
@@TractorMonkeywithJL I’m sure mine is fine as well. It’s probably operator error on my part I only have 12 hours on the machine! . I bought a four-wheel-drive extension handle off of a guy from eBay that I have yet to put on. Great video you did. Gave me confidence to remove my backhoe. I just successfully took off my back hoe for the first time because my ballast box just came in. Hooking that up tomorrow!
No fluids actually leak out on the ground just in case you are confused. (only if something is defective that is) It's a loss of pressure that occurs over time. The fact that hydraulic cylinders lose pressure is completely normal regardless of the brand of equipment. The rubber seals in the cylinders can't hold the pressure forever just like you would expect to see with a hydraulic floor jack for a car. That is why you need jack stands when working on a car. Same principle. All manufactures have a leak down tolerance for any hydraulic cylinder.
I have to disagree on the crazy hard part, although it can be a pain if you are not on a flat level surface. Two reasons I did not take it off in the video. First, I was in the yard for the light and not on a good level surface. There were plenty of other videos on youtube showing the before and after. I was trying to give a closer look that other videos don't show you. As far as hooking the hydraulics, as long as the pressure is relieved by working the controls before hand, it's not that hard to connect. After removal if you hook the two hoses to each other and block the hoe up so it doesn't sag, there won't be much of a pressure build up. It's much much easier to re-install the hoe if the hoe is stored on a wheeled dolly. You can move hoe for the alignment instead of the tractor.
@@TractorMonkeywithJL GAH! This is the tip I needed!! I have taken my backhoe off once... easy peasy off.... what a struggle getting it back on. Trying to line everything up alone was irritating to say the least. Finally got it but as a result I have been shy about wanting to take it off again. I just bought a box blade so.... Thanks so much for the idea!
Nice video, but… I would have liked to see you disconnect the hydraulic hoses (and make it more clear which has to be re-connected for the 3-point hitch). Do the whole re-connect thing as if you were. Now, I realize that in most instances, getting this to precisely align is a challenge, but if you just moved the tractor a head 3-feet, so show clear separation, backing it back up 3 feet w/should not pose an alignment issue. Also, for all you non-photo/videoographers. you DO NOT NEED to do this if full sun!!! This is terrible technique. Film on an overcast day to avoid the harsh contrast. You can see and example of this in the close-ups in the "inside" and underside shots. These are perfectly easy to see. If videoed on an overcast day, probably a brighter overcast, this video would be alot easier to see. Thanks for you perspectives; I appreciate the "block it up" suggestion. Relative to dollies, I am not sure what you mean, exactly. Would buying three appropriately dollies at Harbor Freight work? Also, it seems the dolly solution would only work if this backhoe attachment was stored on a cement floor or something hard, amenable to small dolly wheels. This could never work on a beautiful lawn like you have. In my area, a backhoe is not too helpful; our ground is too damn hard with too much clay, particularly when it is dry.
Thanks for your comments. Search "260b backhoe storage dolly" on youtube and you will see examples of dollies I talk about. Yes, dollies will only work on a hard surface.
Video could be much better. If you are going to make a video like this then actually do all the steps. For instance not pulling the tractor forward and disconnecting the hydraulic lines and reconnecting them is lazy
