2kW Grid Tie inverter connect to US 240V. Theoretical. Part 2 / 3. Sun-2000G2 grid tie with limiter. 

Well explained from someone who is born in a 3 phase 240V country 😉

Great series on this limiter! I appreciate you taking time do do it. Thank you very much!

I have watched all your RU-vid regarding this set up and your final set up before moving up to Solark. I completely understand your excellent demonstrations. It is the next one where I get confused. Here is why: Inverter has three modes most commonly used: "Internal Limiter" (we check this in menu), Then two selectable limits by watts or current if using battery. When not using battery for daytime use and internal limiter it is very simple and GRI with limiter works well with MPPT and solar panels. It is not clear which way you set up your system when you add the comlexity of batteries as you do not show (that I can find) which menu options you select when using batteries. MPPT is disabled when selecting the other menu items and it apperars there is then a need for an independent charge controller that just charges the batteries. What is not clear is what settings you have the GTI set to when operating in this mode. Your analog current meter RU-vid is outstanding showing how electricity works to go to load or battery (if battery is biggest load), but does not show settings of GTI. Could you please explain that? I know you have moved on and well past these little GTIs, but for some of us, this is as far as we will go and need to make it work. My system now has two 1K GTIL with one on each leg. From 9:00AM until 6:00PM my smart meter (California) says 00.0KW most of the time and sometimes as much as 65Watts (not KW). It works very good! But I want to add batteries like you did later and need help with how to set up GTI for batteries at night. Thank you!

Thanks ,it’s very helpful for one of customers in USA.

I also considered this same problem and came up with the solution of using two 100a/25ma CT's in series then would not need to worry about a resistor.

I was thinking that limiter/throttle feature could *replace* the "anti-islanding" requirements on "grid-tie" inverters! Because one bad quirk about anti-islanding requirement is when there is a grid outage (blackout) during the middle of the day. Suppose you're in southern California on a crystal clear bright sunny afternoon with your 5000W+ solar array busy pumping out the juice from that abundant California sun. PG&E decides your neighborhood is on rolling blackout due to high winds and dry grass so your grid goes out in the middle of that bright summer day. But these anti-island grid-tie inverters detect the lack of grid power and so completely turn off. Now that 5000W solar array in the bright sunshine becomes a useless expensive roof ornament. Your house is blacked out just like the other houses that didn't pay for any solar PV. However, suppose that "limiter" type inverters become more common. Would this ridiculous situation be a thing of the past? The limiter would keep your house powered up to the limit of its power while keeping 0 amps from flowing onto the grid. Unfortunately, even the GTIL2 with its limit/throttle feture will do the same thing because it too has the legally required anti-islanding feature built-in and cannot be disabled. So an interesting topic then is why is the solar industry so slow to act on new techniques and technologies like this amp limiting/throttling? Only the Chinese are pushing forward with throttling features. The only thing I can think of is the limit throttle is not precise enough and still allows some few watts to escape onto the grid. But that could be solved when more advanced USA or European solar inverter manufacturers get into it. Companies like SMA, Fronius, or SolarEdge. BTW, I prefer the term "throttling" because "limiter" is too ambiguous. :) Excellent series of videos. I'm very likely going with the same setup with 16s LiFePO4 battery storage and this inverter.

Thanks!

With split phase and 1 CT sensor, put both through the 1 sensor, but one (red or black) longer and run through sensor in reverse direction.

Very good explanation. Correction though.. the resistor is only used to make the inverters supply slightly more of the power the loads use. It will work fine without the resistor but the grid will feed roughly 100w more than it would with a resistor used.. but when using multiple inverters (in my situation) the resistor needed to be removed from the wiring to prevent backfeeding.

cool video, we have same unit it stopped working after 2 years , we check the DC fuses they are ok,. anyway to fix it? do we have to desolder all teh MOSFETs to check them ?

I think the hall effect sensor only reads the voltage and axes and islanding device I don't believe it controls the wattage coming back into the system, I believe that is controlled by a internal pressure device compensating. I like your resistor idea, I would try a smoothing capacitor or it's called a surge capacitor with a diode to keep from back feeding

In the us, there is a ground wire. Where does this go. I dont see this on the 2000G2

Hello thank you for the videos. Good stuff! OK... So lets say you have the two CTs connected to the panel feeders and your pulling 5 amps (120vx600w) on L1 and zero amps on L2. I'm thinking you will still be backfeeding the grid with 300 watts on L2 cause your output will still be a balanced output of 2.5amps L1 and 2.5 amps on L2?? Again thanks for the awesome vids. I will hit the like button right now.

I do not have a spare dryer plug. What are your thoughts on either running the AC cable directly into the breaker box, or splicing it in a junction box with some 10/2 Romex wire? When it gets to the breaker, should the ground wire from the AC cable go to the ground bar in the panel? I did not get the Marsrock branded one as you have, but the Eco-worthy and they said attach it to N. I am unsure if that is correct. Also, the AC cable they provided is only 18AWG and might get hot. Would replacing it with 16AWG be acceptable (10-13A) or did you use something else e.g. 12AWG AC cable? Thanks again for all your videos so far. They are excellent.

Okay because I plan to get one of the same 2KW you have but I'm going to have to connect to sensor in series like you

Let's say I already have a grid tie solar system and the electric company has decided to shift time of use rates so that they charge more for electricity in the late afternoon. I want to use this type of setup to offset my consumption from the grid during that time, and then charge my battery bank back up during the night when rates are cheaper. My current solaredge system completely shuts down when the grid goes down. Do you know if this inverter will trick the solar inverter to stay up during an outage? My concern has more to do with safety for line workers working on the grid if my solaredge is still running because this inverter tricked it by outputting 60hz.

So I have a question, with 2 ct clamps in series how does the inverter know to send for example 3 amps to L1 and 5 amps to L2?

hello everything is fine? What happens if one of the phases goes off (L2 for example)? L1 continues to produce energy and feed the system, or does this inverter only work with both? If one of the phases goes down, does the system stay online for one of the phases? Thanks (I used the translator)

Hello there, how are your inverters holding up? I just bought a 2000k version, do they last?

Hello is the 2KW grid tie inverter still working for you?

Em you have common neutral, so you could place meter on it and then add resister in parallel to divide measure / 2

So, If its 230 volt why does the company only give you 1 sensor?. Also, where can I find part 3 of this discussion?

Como yo concigo el vodeo en español

Kiero conseguir leer los videos en español

so are these inverters actually pushing 4000w? 2000 to each leg?

Do you live in America??? Who else has a slit board system???

Why not connect the two sensors in parallel?

Im living in asia and we are using 220v i think the inverter is design for asian countries.

Mine says, L1, N, L2 and the other end is a plug to go in an outlet.

Hello, can I connect just one of the phases? for example L1 + N, or does it only necessarily work with L1 + L2 +N?

Hello my friend,I bought one same inverter but for 2000w wind generator I connect everything as they said I believe but my LCD screen never be on at all also no electricity as well,just I can see from damp load some electricity DC will show,could you please help me and tell me what’s wrong and how to fix it please?