32. Double Slips setup By Paul Apps at Sandling Junction, my OO gauge railway layout. 

Great video Paul and I’m sure many will find it useful. Thanks for the shout-out too. Regards Charlie.

A solid video Paul and many people will be grateful for this video to assist them. Many find a single turnout challenging enough let alone a double slip. A got one double slip and two single slips on my layout which were fun to wire up. I didn’t do a video as I didn’t think I was skilled enough to share it at the time. Clint

Nice work Paul - super! I must say those platforms you're building are really coming along nicely by the way. Thanks for posting! Cheers, Joachim

Great work, Paul. Well explained and nicely worked. Looks great on the table, too.

Paul great video ... as a newbie to the hobby I find both yours and Charlies videos very helpful ... I trained as an alarm engineer back in the day, before moving uo the ladder as it were, and soldered many many joints on pressure pads , door contacts and everything else lol ... your technique is fine ! .... I would however consider "sleeving" aka heat shrinking the factory fitted conductor wires from the double slip / points prior to soldering any switch or droppers wires to them to completely eliminate any chance of a short or a future "dry joint" also as it is 12 Volts DC I would call the 0 Volts ( -Ve) a negative ground and not a neutral ....and the feed side 12 Volts (+Ve) a positive not a live ... but thats me just being picky ;-) ... love the videos ..a great help keep them coming...Steve

Great video Paul, me also been put off of installing these especially with the cost implications, but now given me confidence to tackle one, keep the vids coming!🤓

Hi Paul, even though I do not have any double slips, nor do I plan to install any on my layout I still found your video very interesting. The shout-out you gave to Charlie was warranted as I really enjoy his channel. Cheers Greg

They only do double slips in insulfrog in code 100 but wiring my points so it’s effectively electofrog, the droppers go onto the pl 13 accessory switch on the opposite side to the frog end! Great video, I did a mimic board years ago using three legged leds that was fun but very complicated wiring 😆

Excellent video,I’ve always wanted to know how to wire up double slips the correct way,Thanks and keep up the good work.David

Very good tutorial Paul, on wiring a double slip. Cheers......Geoff

Thanks - by far best double slip video I have seen!

Very Informative Paul, now I know how to even though I haven't got any, but never say never. Cheers John.

Hi Paul Love them easy to wire up you said you put plastic joiners on to make it into it's own island on my n gauge I just treat it like a two points back to back and the out side lines that have the dropper wires on they are the same what is connecting to it either live or negative so they can have metal joiners. Colin

perfect , really appreciate the tutorial , most helpful to me.

When I read the title for this video, 32 double slips, he's gone mad!!. Then I saw the full stop. I have do not have any slips on my plan and I think I will leave it that way. Best wishes. Martin. (Thailand) (Servo's?)

Simples! 😉 Nice tutorial. Paul

Try your soldering iron for shrinking sleeving a lot quieter lol, can I ask why you are using 16 strand wire for your power droppers over the 7 strand?? Cheers Colin

Insulfrog double slips are incredibly easy to wire up, just like any other piece of track.

About the mess on your workbench... keep all electrical outlets/extension cables under the workbench-

Great advice.

Thank you Paul. I'm quite new to this, just getting started really and it wasn't long before wondering why I started with a double switch! The video is extremely helpful, logical and easy to follow, however, I'm still unsure how/where to connect the droppers from the frogs (green wires in your case), do they connect to the positive loop, or negetive loop? Tanks again

Hi, enjoyed the video. I am still confuseds as to why the double slip has to be an entirely seperate wiring. I have the basic understaanding but I don't see why it causes a short if not seperated. Thanks

Cool video

Great timing Paul, I have dry laid my track out on the first board and am ready to start installing. BUT as you described right up front I realised that the double slip will have to go in first to ensure all the correct angles, PANIC! A week of looking at it and along comes your video, thanks, I now have the confidence to wire it up. Will you be doing a follow up on installing the 2 point motors? I intend using Gaugemaster PM1's through a CDU and there are 2 tie bar holes for each point bar so does it matter which one you use? Or would you recommend using a servo type? Thanks again and Sandling Junction is looking great, cheers Steve

Hi Paul great videos, have you fitted a peco 3way insult point if so can we have a video please

Hello Paul small question I bought a double slip now im ready to install without point motors just want to switch it my self do i have to use the frog wires or just connect the poss and neg wires bit confused cheers David

nice helpful video, its just a shame that peco only do the double slips as electrofrog in code 75 as i've got a lot of older stock that i can only run on code 100

Paul, quick question, I plan to use a double slip manually, do I still need to wire up the frog ?

Good video. How's the lift up section going.

Hi Paul, forgot to ask in that, am assuming your using code75 points and track? I’am using Code 100 and appears code 100 slips are only available as insufrogs? any advise from your good self or other subscribers! Many thanks Eddie.🤓

Is there a follow on video to this one?

Hi Paul, nice video and it's great to see that there's no real modification needed to make the switch blades electrically sound. One quick question, you mentioned that the springs aren't removed. Why keep them in place if using a servo or Cobalt/Tortoise motor?

Hate them and the 3 way points Ifind them easy to wire but want a fairly simple way to operate my layout having a four road layout and find using them there is to much of a chance of collision and with locomotives so delicate and expensive have decided to stick to all normal points

It's only 2 points back to back. Geoff. W.

you may find some help on slips at Taunton town mrc www.ttmrc.com Graham

PECO LARGE RADIUS DOUBLE SLIP ISN'T LARGE !!! I certainly wouldn't use a Peco Double slip even in a Fiddle Yard for the simple reason these things are only 3ft radius. I won't go below 5ft radius in "OO" because if you do, you can't abolish the stupid "Toy Train Set" gaps between vehicles, or between locos & their tenders !!! Further below 5ft Radius your locos loose an increasing amount of pulling power, which is absorbed fighting the curvature. So my layout which has two visible Double Slips are Scratchbuilt 6ft Radius. Each took about 5 hours to build and cost about £6.50 in parts. (Copperclad sleeper strip & code 75 bullhead nickel silver rail). They are of course totally Live Frog meaning nothing stalls or stutters even at walking pace. Indeed all visible pointwork on the layout is scratchbuilt. And as in real life the points are built to fill the available space. So no two points are exactly the same size !!! As these Double Slips are part of a double track Junction that crosses a 4 track mainline, all the points use Fulgurex (Swiss) Slow action motor driven mechanisms. Which come with 2 free switches built in, and space to clip on two more switches onto the mechanism. Enough to cover the necessary "route wiring" as 6 different Controllers/Operators are involved. (This is a large Exhibition Mainline layout based on a real Southern Region very busy station). SOLENOID POINT MECHANISMS will eventually cause the Peco hair spring to either rip out of the plastic sleeper strip, or break. And they will quickly break the tiebar on a handbuilt point. I've used Fulgurex mechanisms on all my exhibition layouts for almost 40 years. But the installation instructions ARE NOT suited to British Commercial points. They are for "Floating hair sprung blade" types typical in Europe. Ignore instructions & screw the mechanism under the baseboard "up tight" against the brass crank where it comes through the baseboard, and it will work Peco points if you also remove the Peco hair spring.