32RH (904) Teardown - Valve Body Complete Teardown

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Complete* teardown of the valve body from a 32RH out of a 1997 Jeep Wrangler.
* I don't remove the selector assembly because I don't have the right tool to re-assemble it. It can be done without the tool, but I wasn't able to capture it on video. Really it just take s strong, thin piece of metal, ideally with a hole in it to sort of hold the detent ball. a 0.025" feeler gauge seems to work in a pinch.

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23 июн 2022

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Комментарии : 18

@bellabelmonte7428 Год назад

I think your video was amazing helpful me and business partner did exactly what you did and fix our problem thank you for video

@bigjuicygarage4754 Год назад

Great to hear!

@jtjones4727 10 месяцев назад

Nice, I'm glad I found these videos. I consider myself a pretty good mechanic, but I'm by no means a transmission guy. I prefer to build engines and do performance related work. I have a customer though that took a bath on an 02 Jeep Wrangler he bought with the 4.0L and the RH32 transmission. The demand for these units must be super high, because the cost of used transmissions for these is outrageous. 1500 dollar average price, for units that have between 120k and 180k miles on them. It's almost cheaper to buy a reman unit from Advance for 1789 dollars with a new converter (and a 400 dollar core charge). The driveline parts of the trans don't look too complicated, but I'm not sure I want to try and tackle a rebuild on these valve bodies. I've already had to rebuild both the front and rear diffs, the steering gearbox, the exhaust manifolds and the catalytic converter both have holes in them, the transmission seems to have taken mud and water in somehow, in addition to all the vent tubes being stopped up with mud. The Throttle position sensor was broken in half, the IAC valve stuck and burned up, new NTK coils, new O2 sensors, all the cat back exhaust has been replaced, fixed a major evap system leak. And still, the thing has major intake gasket leaks in addition to the exhaust manifolds and cats, and now the transmission is slipping so bad I couldn't even test drive it around the loop near my shop after I put the steering system back together. He really should have let me inspect this thing before he spent over 12k dollars on this thing, and that's just what he payed for the Jeep, not including any of the parts and repairs I've done already. These Jeeps really are money pits.

@bigjuicygarage4754 9 месяцев назад

The economics on the 32RH made attempting the rebuild myself a no-brainer, despite having no experience. The used or re-man units were expensive and had virtually no usable warranty. I decided that the cost of the rebuild kit was low enough that I wouldn’t be super pissed if I ended up not being successful…I could still just bring it to a shop for a rebuild. $300 vs $3000 made it an easy choice. For the valve body, I round it to be very simple even being a total noob. Now if your valves needed work, I don’t know what you do, but I’m guessing you just buy new valves? Regardless, I documented the whole process here, don’t let it be the reason you don’t tackle the project. As far as yours getting mud inside, there is no breather tube on this trans, unless you did it yourself. There is a breather hole behind the torque converter and if you get deep enough you could get water in there. Especially if you were stationary or the engine was off.

@trailraiders6350 11 месяцев назад

What cleaning solution you used to clean the valve body and its components?

@bigjuicygarage4754 11 месяцев назад

I used a TON of Brake Clean, and then sprayed with compressed air. I did the same thing with the case. I didn’t spray down any of the components like the planetaries, although I probably should have.

@trailraiders6350 9 месяцев назад

Hi again. It's me again lol. This video doesn't show how you removed the solenoid. I have remove one bolt attaching it to the separator plate but it's still not coming off. Wondering if there's a snap clip holding it underneath. Please kindly advise. Thanks

@bigjuicygarage4754 9 месяцев назад

Once you have the screws removed (I believe there are 2), the solenoid should just pull out. There is an o-ring that makes it more of a snug fit but it shouldn’t take much effort to get it out. There is no trick besides the visible screws.

@bigjuicygarage4754 9 месяцев назад

I actually do have an iPhone video of me removing the solenoid. I used a flat head screwdriver and gently got it to pry up. I can tell I didn’t use much force. Let me see if I can upload it.

@bigjuicygarage4754 9 месяцев назад

@trailraiders6350 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IAtx-DlYJWw.htmlsi=v2pgTsuK4ydzV5rZ

@paducahshane1 2 месяца назад

My Jeep sat with the trans dip stick out. While setting water got into the trans from opening. Dropped the pan and drained water and strawberry milk out. Some water and emulsified fluid drained from the valve body. Just how hosed am I? Lol Can I spray cleaner or replace pan to soak the valve body with fresh fliud or do I need to tear it all down?

@bigjuicygarage4754 2 месяца назад

If you drove it, you’re probably screwed. :). Your only get out of jail free chance is to do a full flush, where you disconnect the cooler lines and suck in new fluid and return the old fluid to a big bucket, till it runs clean. It’s the only way to get the torque converter flushed. If you didn’t drive it (or flip it over or tilt it) then you stand a fighting chance. Drop the valve body & get it perfectly clean. And then monitor what drips out of the trans after that. Gravity could’ve pushed the milkshake into some of the passages, including the pump. If you can get most of it out, maybe a full flush to get the residual will save your bacon.

@paducahshane1 2 месяца назад

@bigjuicygarage4754 thanks for the reply! I got lucky and caught it b4 starting it. I used my borescope and looked above the valve body. No strawberry milk. I sprayed everything down with a line flush, filled with fluid and will let it set for a month till I can get back to it and drop the valve body. Thanks for your videos. I'll be watching again and taking notes.

@bigjuicygarage4754 2 месяца назад

@@paducahshane1 I wouldn’t wait if you don’t absolutely have to. My main concern are the two bands. Replacing the kickdown band requires about 70% of the rebuild effort, and the low/reverse band is about 95% of the way to a full rebuild. Honestly, if the trans is already out of the jeep (unclear how you got that much water into the trans if it was under a stationary jeep) I would just overhaul it.

@paducahshane1 2 месяца назад

@bigjuicygarage4754 I took out the engine and it was trash, so I orderd one. Jeep was under cover till a "mechanic" friend said he'd put the motor in. Sat at his place for 6 months uncovered. I put the long block together and in, in two days. Crazy that water got in tyranny but luckily I stuck my finger in the hole, trying to line up the dipstick. I work on the ocean so I'll be out for a month. I can see a new tyranny to go with the new engine in my future. Time for a full rebuild is not in my favor.

@bigjuicygarage4754 2 месяца назад

@@paducahshane1 I’ll rebuild it for ya cheaper than a replacement. Just drop in in DFW on your way to that big ocean. :)