In this video i teardown a 904 transmission. one of my subscribers will be working on this unit so i uploaded this video for that reason. At the end of the video there is a rebuild tip that you should watch. Valvebody video coming too.
Great video... going to do my first rebuild since the 60's on a TF6! My buddy and i used to a lot of rebuilds in a little two car garage... Cruise-o-matics... Jetaways... Slim Jim's... and the occasional TF.
+Shorty Medlock Good luck, im sure you will do fine, I get alot of classic cars in my shop. i have a 1960 caddy with a jetaway we are working on. Thanks for watching, please subscribe. Gary
Great video! I used to race a Dart with a 360 and a 904/999 and it's an awesome transmission! I also have a Dakota with a 46RE and in really cold weather it has a delayed shift into third. Now I know what to fix if I ever have to take the trans out. Thanks for that!
I just got a 75 dodge pickup with a 727, I don't have 3rd hear and tbh I replaced that seal along with all the others and I don't think it has 3rd gears because of it
I have no computer any more .I was under the impression it was a mechanical transmission. that being said it will shift into 3rd when in 4 low. but not when you're in the high side. try ed going down a hill at highway speed would not shift into 3rd. transmission doesn't seem to slip. but makes a lot of noise when you Rev it up in park or neutral.
Great video, thanks. I'd like to know if you can mix thin with standard disks ? The same with steels. Can a thin steel be used with standards, to get correct clearances ?
Hi Gary, I’ve got a 32rh transmission that I’m having some problems with. It has a hard shudder on take off when accelerating moderately. Doesn’t happen on light acceleration. Feels almost like a really bad clutch on a standard or even a rear end binding. I’ve isolated the problem to the transmission. Any advice to further diagnose wether this is the transmission or torque converter?
Ok, if reverse is good, then your direct clutch(3rd) is working, adjust the rod or cable(which ever you have) to bring down the shift points and see if 3rd comes in.
Excelente video sensor Gary muy instructivo para técnicos mecánicos me interesaría también un vídeo del desarme completo de las válvulas torque 8 A904 (cuerpo de válvulas). Gracias y saludos
Hi Gary, Thank you for your excellent Videos! What's your opinion when it comes to ATF in the Torqueflite? I've got a 32RH in a 2000 Dogde Van and all the years it was running with Dexron III. The Owners Manual says Dexron is OK, but I've read in many forums now that only Mopar ATF+4 is OK, and every other ATF isn't good enough?! I'm a bit confused now what to use after the coming rebuild, since it's not that easy to get my Handy on ATF+4 here in Germany, and it's much more expensive than Dexron III. Kind regards and thank you in Advance for your answer!
Ok at 10:26 you pull out the accumulator piston and spring. So I got into my transmission and found the accumulator piston had a small round piece of plastic/cork inside it looks as if it broke off the center top of the accumulator. It was inside the piston. When I removed it it was laying in the bottom of the hole. So the question is. Is the accumulator piston supposed to have a hole in the top. I'm guessing no. As the sole duty of piston is create resistance. The second part of the question is could this cause the transmission to slip out of gear during acceleration? Also something the dealer that took the transmission out of the jeep said. I haven't seen one of those in thirty years... which leads me to believe that either he was exaurating or no one really takes there 20 year old jeep to the dealer for work transmission work?
There should be no hole in that accumulator piston, and yes that can cause a slip, with the hole or even a crack can cause problems, if you get a chance maybe post a picture. Gary
Gary I had two Question in 6l80E If we rebuild valve body then we 1- change TCM by anew one it's need reprogramming 2- if we retain back old TCM its need reset
I was wondering if you could make a recommendation for a upgrade on the A-904? We use a 93 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4x4 as a farm truck I really want to keep the jeep it has always been a really good vehicle. I think the issue is the amount of work we do with it. We drag trailers weighing 2,500lb we have rebuilt and done upgrades to the original inline 6 so the motor handels it just fine. and I am told heat is the #1 killers of transmissions so I was going to put a extra cooler but then I was told with our temp getting down to -8 it would cause the fluid to gel. IDK anything about transmissions been working on motors since I was 16 though so I learn fast and listen. Thank you in advance!!
Are there any distinguishing features to differentiate a 727 from the 904? I have a 71 Dart and will be looking at my first rebuild in a couple of months but don't actually know which one I have, I haven't found any numbers on the housings so I'm wondering if there is an easy way from looking to spot the difference. Also, this car does not have a kickdown linkage or cable and I've been told to install it right away, before even driving it to the store to pick one up. I see where it attaches but have NO idea how I'm going to get in there to attach it, any tips? Car has headers, pipes frame the transmission pretty tightly and tortion bars also running down each side and in the way. Was thinking of doing this at the same time I did my lower control arms since I have to disconnect the tortion bars and it might give me more room. Any thoughts?
The pan covers are different, that's the easiest way to tell. If the car was originally a 6 or 2bbl 318, it's likely an A904. If it's a factory 340, then the standard trans was the 727. Absolutely do not drive without kickdown properly connected and adjusted.
Great video Gary. I'm in the process of rebuilding my 904. (First ever transmission). Just wondering what technique you use for getting the front servo piston back in? I'm having a very tough time because I can't get in there to compress the bottom sealing rings. Thanks.
@@GaryFerraro yes sir the small sealing ring. I keep getting it caught and its wanting to roll over and snap. Just wondering if there is a trick to it or im just not doing it right. Thank you for any advice.
Hi Gary, great video. My 32RH (I guess that’s aka 904 or 999?) recently started holding onto 1st all the way to 4500 rpm, then seems to shift directly to 3rd. Won’t downshift into 2nd either. Reverse works ok, but the Jeep seems to idle rough in reverse. Any ideas? Thanks!
@@GaryFerraro seems like I can get to the governor without removing the whole transmission, just the transfer case and the housing extension? What is the remedy for a stuck governor?
Great video. It is impressive to see a pro at work. This amateur has a related transmission (42re I think, from a '96 Grand Cherokee), but cannot remove the rear band actuator lever pivot pin. I can rotate the pin. Have you any tips? My only purpose in removing the pin would be to replace the o-rings and ease rear band piston installation. Given that the low pressure fluid would leak into the gasket space of the 904 and the overdrive unit, should I even care about removing the pin for gasket replacement? TIA
Do you know what is leaking, are the o-rings leaking, if you want to replace the extension gasket, you would not have to remove the pin, once the pin comes out the reverse set-up will fall out of place
I do not know that anything was leaking although there was plenty of gunk in the bell and around the shift lever. The transmission came apart for a lazy 1-2 shift. I am only attempting to decide if I care that I cannot remove the pin for the rear band lever. The lever and pin are the only parts left in the case.
you didn't check endplay before removing the pump. do you know what is within tolerance for a 42re if checking with a pair of calipers instead of a dial indicator?
My 97 wrangler with the 2.5 liter and 30RH transmission slips really badly from a stop and between gear shifts when cold, but after about 20 minutes of city driving it gets progressively better and eventually the shifts are smooth as silk. Any idea what could be happening?
Gary Ferraro so far seems harder to shift to third when it's cold. But when hot it's still random. You have to let off the gas to get it to shift to third. Reverse and 1-2 work fine. Nothing slips.
@@GaryFerraro Tore mine down, the reverse drum bearing has some good grooves in it, some clutches are burned up, do you have any good shape reverse drums to sell?
I have a1995 Jeep Wrangler when it sits all night and I get in and try to leave in the morning it will take a minute before it goes into reverse and drive. Once it goes into gear it’s fine until it sits for a long time again. What could be my issue. Thank you for the info in advance.
Sounds like the converter is draining back. Way you could tell is when you come out in the morning, dont start the car, pull the dip stick out, wipe it and check fluid level(engine off) see how far it is above the full mark, if more than 2 inches above the full mark then it is probably draining back overnite
@@caidenhammond8623 No, you could have a bad pump bushing or even a bad pump. Sometimes in one of the cooler lines is a one way valve, if stuck open it may drain back
just completed my first rebuild on this exact transmission, and on the test drive, I have no reverse at all. 1st gear seems to work, but no reverse 2nd or 3rd gear. Is this just a front band adjustment? Also when i turn off the jeep i hear a dripping fluid sound from inside the transmission what could cause this?
Nice video my only critique is that you didn't show the bands or which way they went. I am having the dealer remove the transmission (A-904 30rh) from my 97 jeep wrangler. Ill pick it up rebuild it and bring it back to them. I've done numerous other projects but I'm a little nervous about this project. I was wondering if there was a reason why people dont rebuild as they take it out instead of completely disassembling then reassembling. The only reason I wondered is I figure with all the complex this way only no marking items in a transmission it might be easy to forget for a novice like me which way a particular steel went if I took it out hours ago. The dealer quoted me their parts and labor at $1800 which is a remarkably good price but I cannot afford that much so they will take it out and reinstall for $660 I will save myself approx. $900 with the mark up of parts and the $110/hr labor charges for the actual rebuild. They quoted the whole job as a 10hr job an which is $1100 just for labor. Anyway my question is this the tip you gave at the end you mentioned the 42 and like models but didn't mention the 30rh as included as part of the tip. Thanks again for the video it was a good over view! (also just to note I got a manual to help with the rebuild plus it should come with instructions even if vague they will help.)
Hello, The 30rh is included in the tip, i just call those units torque flight. I use only trans tec kits which come with the 2 inner lip seals for the direct drum. What type of overhaul kit are you using? are you getting a rebuilt torque converter. What is the trans doing that it needs to be overhauled? Sorry about the bands, the 2nd band takes a strut and that goes on the side where the piston is(if you look at the band it can really only go one way).If the reverse band has a band strut, that too goes toward the piston, there is a small tip on the band that keeps the strut centered. Gary Any questions just let me know.
I thought I replied to this yesterday?!?!? Ok I ordered a master Kit from oreilly's item number #752057 (put in oreillys search bar it will bring it up I think the link may be why it didn't post my reply). I know the kit is a little bit more expensive than some on ebay but i know for a fact its the right kit. I wanted the valve body parts to hit two birds one stone.The transmission is called the tf-6 also a-904 and 30rh its made things interesting trying to find parts. The kit is a master kit comes with the valve bearings and the separator plate. I ordered a remanufactured torque converter through ebay. Well we purchased the jeep in oct slowly weve been putting money into it new top, tail lights and guards etc. Redoing the interior etc. I drove it to get a battery for it and my Hyundai about 20mins then parked it at our house. It drove fine and had no issues with driving mechanically. Its been sitting for a month or two. My hubby goes to drive it and all of a sudden when he accelerates at 30mph - 35 mph the jeep slips out of gear revs the rpms to redline (5K) then it drops into gear at 4K and the jeep takes off. So we took the trans pan off cleaned the (massive amounts of cork gasket inside the transmission in the fluid and some was sucked up into the filter) liquid gasket off put a new filter and rubber gasket (they dont slip) on and put it all back together. My husband isn't very mechanically inclined I asked him to put fluid into it but he didn't check it so he over filled it by a lot. The next time he drove it. It consistently slipped every time he accelerated past 30mph - 35mph reved the rpms and then slid back into gear. I suspected electrical issues as the jeep is plagued with them. I looked into a OTC encore (but I could have rebuilt by a pro if I could afford it) so I decided I would take it to the jeep dealer who would go over the entire vehicle for $110. They put it on the computer and went over the jeep and found the front pump not working and the torque converter needed to be replaced. The clutches were wore and with the age (97) and mileage (157K) of the vehicle they suggested the transmission was wore out and needed rebuilt..
Hello, One thing with the 904 trans, theres nothing eletrical inside the unit(maybe just a tcc solenoid) this probably went into neutral when it makes the 2-3 shift, hows reverse on this unit, any delay in drive or reverse? Are you going to rebuild this yourself? Also on these units when you fill it and check the fluid, make sure the car is in neutral not park. Gary
Hey ya,Yeah before I started my research to find out all I could about the transmission I didn't realized it wasn't like other transmissions my family has had problems with. Reverse is surprisingly normal. There is no delay in take off from a stand still only does. Yes I'm rebuilding myself. I found a couple of vids showing how to adjust to proper settings the bands. I was wondering if I needed to adjust them or just leave them where they were? Thanks for all your help and information.
You may have to loosen the bands to take the trans apart, you could always try to mark where the adjustment is, but remember, there will be new bands installed and the adjustment may not be the same, the front band, i usually tighten snug and back off about 1.5 turns and go from there, the reverse band i do by feel. Thats awesome that your rebuilding, i have another female subscriber in PA that rebuilds also. Any questions, im here to help. Gary
@@GaryFerraro Yes it went forward in every gear selection. Reverse neutral etc. I believe the clutch pack is "welded" solid. I pulled the pump out and remove the band and the input shaft won't come out.
Thanks for the reply. It's an 81 AMC Eagle. It's has an AMC specific case. The snout on the stator is broke. My hope is the final and Don AMC 998 to swap the internals, but even those are kind hard to find.
I just checked my source which is shop key pro, and im showing 2 different part numbers, so i would say they are different. Not sure if this will help but the part number is 4778108AB. Not sure if its available.
Sorry, when i go to film, i get there like at 4am, once around 8am hits the phones start and they dont stop, so i have a very small window to work with, but i will try to do some assembly videos. Thanks for watching
Two reason I can't watch this: the video quality is really bad. This is a technical How To video - the viewers need high definition for detail, at least 1080p please. This is a pathetic and fuzzy 360p, woeful! Also the mechanic guy should be wearing gloves - constantly immersing the skin in toxic oils is asking to get health problems later in life. It's so disrespectful to the body, the skin is an organ and is highly absorbent.
Sorry about that, i have upgraded since, i don't wear gloves because i need to feel surfaces, can't really do that with gloves, just old school i guess. Thanks for the input
