4g63 Oil Filter Housings 

Перевод

+Derek Eklund You sir... are a bad-ass. That's sheer genius. You just gave me an "I wish I thought of that" moment. I have 2 hands and I'm pissed that Google only gives me one thumb.

Sure thing man.. do u need pics? From the land Downunder! Cheers

+Derek Eklund No, I've totally got you. Loud and clear. I'd use an allen head cap screw and a lock nut. Do you care if I make a video of doing this someday? Because this one of those simple genius inventions from down under like the Hook-Eze and I'm man enough to not violate your patent.

+Jafromobile Go for it... I don't mind at all. One thing I do also I machine up a small insert to locate the spring & center the adjustment bolt, hence why I remove 2 coils.

Jafromobile I have a 94 6 bolt 4g63 turbo and want to go to an air cooled ofh to eliminate the problem of the oil filter stud unscrewing from the housing all the time. what housing would you recommend?

FrankTheCat Awesome, I actually went from the world of DSMs to SAAB (B234R) and now I'm looking to buy my third DSM soon. Good luck with your build.

FrankTheCat Thanks man! I just watched this whole video again because of your comment. I think this one is on my personal top 3 best videos list, and most definitely is required viewing for everyone that IS building a 4g6x because of how many oil pressure issues seem to crop up on that platform once they're modified. Even though it's aimed at the 4g6x crowd because of its frequency in our community, all of these exact same concepts apply to everything else. Few of my videos contain this depth of information because they're largely unpopular in the statistics. This video isn't for the weak. It's for the intellectuals, the mechanically-gifted, and the determined. Having re-watched this again 2 years later, I'm surprised that I'm even the guy who made it. It makes me think my recent videos suck! lol!

***** This is one of my favorites, I watched it multiple times to understand everything but it was worth it for sure. The amount of knowledge that surrounds the DSM community is immense and it's great having people like you putting such informative videos out. I've watched just about all your videos and I still learn something when I go back and rewatch.

Oh man... that would have been really, really bad! Great job on your research!

You have a 7 bolt. If you don't have an oil cooler than it's the normally aspirated model. I don't have the 7 bolt NA housing to demonstrate it, but if you look around on the housing, you can find a plug or a pre-drilled hole that doesn't go all the way through where you can drill a small hole and then tap the pre-drilled hole for the sensor. If there is no pre-drilled hole, then you get to pick where it goes! I mention the pre-drilled hole because every external oil cooler housing from 7-bolt years that I've encountered had one and a half sensor holes. They just didn't drill it all the way through. You have to make the other half of the hole and tap it. The tap you want is 1/8" BSPT. If you use 1/8" NPT and you're not installing an autometer oil pressure sending unit, it's probably going to leak. The threads on the stock and stock replacement sender is 1/8" BSPT.

Several options for you... you could buy a 1/8" NPT tap, run it through that hole, and use an aftermarket Autometer sending unit and gauge instead of the factory one. You'd just need to install an aftermarket gauge in the interior that would read your actual oil pressure. It's only 5 wires to install one. Power, Ground, Signal. Then there's + and - for illumination. You only have to pull 1 wire through the firewall. I have a video coming up where I'm installing several gauges in my Hyundai and an oil pressure gauge is one of them. That might interest you? The reason that NPT tap trick would work because the minor diameter of proper BSPT threads is 9.5mm, and NPT is 9.9. You'd gain 1/4 mm of threads all the way around the hole, and it might be enough to save it. It will let you continue using the housing you have right now without major surgery. The 1 sensor you blew out of the OFH is probably for your idiot light switch, not the sending unit for the gauge. There are 2 oil pressure senders on a 2g GSX. If one's missing, it's likely not your idiot light switch because most non-turbo cars didn't get oil pressure gauges in the interior. Turbo DSMs all have them. The NPT thread trick will let you reconstitute that one stripped hole, but it doesn't fix the two sensor problem. You'd probably still want your idiot light hooked up at the very least because it's the most obvious attention-getter if you have an oil pressure problem. Truth be told, the factory oil pressure gauge is basically useless. It doesn't indicate good from bad with an actual result. I'm the kind of person that likes to see everything working, but if there was ever a gauge I didn't care about in a 2g, it would be that one, or the boost gauge. If you wanted to leave it the way it was, but with a working idiot light, I suppose you could find an 1/8" NPT male to 1/8" BSPT female fitting, and put the idiot light sensor back in the housing using the NPT adapter? Yes. Yes that would work. But it still gives you no gauge, though. If you wanted both gauge and idiot light sensors to work, you will still need to tap and drill another hole in it. There are no other provisions for it on that housing, and to tap that extra hole, you will need a 1/8" BSPT tap to fit any Mitsubishi oil pressure sensors or switches. You would need both NPT and BSPT taps if you wanted to add an aftermarket gauge into the mix without using adapters to fix thread problems. So to do it without those taps, yes, you will need to do major surgery and install that 90 OFH, the external oil cooler and the metric - to -8 AN fittings that adapt to your oil lines. You will need to fabricate means of securing your oil cooler. You'd still need to buy a sensor, an oil cooler, and make 2 lines with 8AN fittings on both ends... the 90 OFH is a great upgrade, but it's a lot of work, and those fittings aren't cheap. Of course, you could use the 91 turbo OFH... but it sounds to me like they just installed a complete non-turbo 6-bolt block. For the 91-92.5 OFH you would also have to change out the water pipe, thermostat housings, and your lower and upper radiator hoses because those are the 2 parts the coolant for it is tapped into. One way or the other, it's a big job to get both gauges working because you're going to have to tear it down a little bit farther than doing a timing belt job to install either oil filter housing. Here's how to cheat: Drill it out to 1/4" NPT. Get a 1/4" T adapter, and two 1/4" NPT to 1/8" BSPT adapters and screw both sensors into one hole. No matter how you fix it, I think it's cool as shit that you're choosing to tackle this one yourself. :) b

***** I think we're on the same page of understanding regarding the gauges. I do have an autometer manual gauge. This time, I'm embracing the mentality of "replace what failed and replace what its directly connected to" and put a 90 air-cooled style OFH on it. I just lowered it off the lift after verifying no leaks. The ports for the cooler are plugged, because I don't need a cooler, yet, but will in the future and only want to do this once. The pressure sending unit did blow off but it was in the port for the idiot light, but the new OFH came with the idiot light sensor, I'll likely hook that up tomorrow at the minimal. My largest concern is actually regarding head pressure vs block pressure. I can't possibly read through all these comments and watch the video for every question and still digest all the data here but a skim shows some concern for porting the OFH I'm now running due to the pressure difference. My balance shaft is properly removed and my turbo feed comes right off the OFH, with the re-stricter in place. Because I don't know of any further mods that might change the pressure in the top vs the bottom, should I look into - at least temporally - installing a second pressure gauge at one of the 1/8 bsp ports of the head and log over some time to verify? I have the ECU inputs to monitor that with link, using factory pressure sending units .... it would just have to be ugly. Also, thanks for the kudos. You've been a huge inspiration and I've learned a lot and a lot more of what NOT to do. Your video regarding valve angle and timing will be used in a future build for sure! :)

The 3 oil system modifications I did to the Hyundai, along with its oil clearances (loose) well documented in the Hyundai assembly series on a no oil-squirter no-balance-shaft non-turbo block... I have the perfect recipe documented on ALL of the specs and in the Hyundai's blueprint. Video coming soon. I can confirm this according to my Autometer gauge measuring at the oil filter housing. I can confirm it's a perfect 20 PSI warm idle at 800 RPMs. I know the head's getting plenty of oil, because it's the quietest DSM valvetrain I've ever heard. I've revved it to 7250 RPM with my exactly .100" exhaust valve clearance, and didn't bend any valves. I prefer the head turbo oil feed over the oil filter housing feed, and that's my personal preference. Less chance of over-pressurizing the turbo center section. It can have its drawbacks, too, but not if you mind the head oil port. My Hyundai's head oil teardrop is contoured to a half-radius at .150" depth. I'm using ARP's. I'm using the stock head oil diverter and 3g lifters. I polished the main oil galleries behind the front case, and smoothed all the rough edges in the front case galleries themselves. My oil filter housing is a '91, but it wasn't ported to open any earlier than usual. It was ported wider to leak more as it opens. The '90 does tend to open later, yielding a higher oil pressure than the 91+. By how much I can not verify because I don't know enough about the differences of manufacturing tolerances from one to the next, but if I were you I would not port it until you know how it's behaving. It's not a fun part to change out, I know. You can always shim the cap bolt on the regulator with a thicker crush washer, or a stack of crush washers to reduce the load on the spring causing it to open at a lower pressure if you bolt it on and find out the pressure is too high. If you port it and then find it's too low, then you're in trouble because you can't put it back. I suppose you could shim the spring inside the cap rather than using crush washers to raise the spring pressure... but you need "before" data to determine how it should be ported if that's how you want to approach it. Basically, you want the oil pressure to be 15 PSI and increase 10 PSI linear with your RPMs, not to exceed 85 PSI. If you've got bumps or spikes in that curve, they will be what tells you how to shape that hole. I can already tell you've been paying attention. Thanks for rubbing the extra 5v inputs in. Uh huh... With my OBD-I version of Link, its going to be a bit of work to gather the head data prior to getting my head built, but based on what I've seen so far, I'm really confident with the numbers I've posted.

Need to know how to take the oil filter housing off my 1992 Eagle Talon TSI dohc awd 2.0

@@onedove44 dsmtuners.com will have all the information you need.

+boostedhyundai lol. Forgot all about it. Honestly I haven't done anything with the Colt since that scene was shot. Not happy about that, but time is a commodity, and a scarce and valuable one for me lately. The engine is just in for fitment reasons to make sure I can get everything lined up right. After I'm done with that, I'll be pulling the motor again. I'll probably follow your cue on that bolt. ;)