I do pay a lot of attention also when rinsing my cassette as the contaminated water, carrying oil from the cassette can spray on to the disc rotor. I like to wrap the rotor in a clean rug when washing the cassette :)
@fedbiker switch to squirt wax based lube now and watch the difference .trick is to apply to a spotless dry drivetrain.lube night before ride and lube twice on first application...its a revelation and i wont touch anything else
Easy way to avoid brake contamination (discs or rim brake for that matter) is remove the wheels and place them a decent distance away from the bike before lubing everything up. You can also put cheap freezer bags over the calipers and seal off with an elastic band. Then make sure you wait for the lube to cure off or any excess to drip off (I leave mine an hour) before putting the wheels back on.
I've have my own method of applying lube to chain, and cassette. I use an pure bristle half inch lining fitch, ( paint brush) I load the brush with lube and apply it to the whole drivetrain. It works perfectly with no contamination of any other components. Try it, you won't look back.
I always take any shower caps I might find in hotels, etc. There are also plastic wrap products with rubber bands at the edges for covering dishes/leftovers... these are nice to shield brakes and rotors and even to keep your seat clean/dry when parked.
@@timyassa4343 You must live somewhere with nice roads and mellow weather. If I leave my bike without cleaning for more than 2 days, it would be caked in mud and rusted.
I use a bit of foam from a sponge when I apply chain lube, wet or dry... Soak the chain and catch the excess in the sponge, then rub the moistened sponge all along the drive train to collect any excess lube that might have dropped out of the rollers... Helps keep the bike and the garage clean from spills and seems to prevent the extra grime and debris pickup from riding. I didn't know about letting dry lube set for a moment before wiping it down, gonna remember that for next time
It’s totally possible to overdo degreaser. You want your lube worked into the inside of the rollers around the linking pins of the chain. No point in washing it all out each time. I only use degreaser sparingly on a rag or about once or twice a year to soak the chain.
Wd40 will strip everything from inside the rollers so if you do this method make sure you give it a lube straight away and wipe off excess . Chains do come with a good factory lube and whilst far too sticky to use on the outside it does a fantastic job on the rollers inside that you can't see .you'll be surprised how well it remix s in there .
I’m lucky to have cabinet’s full of quality car detailing supplies...my other passion. Most of the products I use for decontamination, cleaning and protecting work extremely well for bikes. Most of the materials and parts you find on vehicles clean up and protect the same way with Mountain bikes. One of my favorite products I use is Carpro ECH2O. It’s a waterless wash and quick detailer. It’s an Sio2 based product that helps protect the paint and plastics on vehicles. I use it after the wash on all the painted and plastic surfaces...especially on the suspension. Creates a super slick surface that repels water and crud .makes cleanup the next time around super easy. Most of the mud and crud just rinses off with minimal work!!
I'm taking a totaly different approach: 1. Take a paper towel and remove excessive mud 2. Remove the chain and throw it in a jar 1/3 to 1/2 full of gasoiline 3. Shake the chain in the closed jar for 2-3 to remove the dirt even from the rollers 4. Hang the chain somewher to dry off 5. Start to heat up some wax 6. Clean the remaining drivetrain components with the remaining gasoiline 7. apply a drop of oil to the pulley wheel bearings/bushings 8. let the chain sit in the 105-110 °C hot wax for a minute 9. Pull it out and let it cool down on some paper towels 10. Mount the chain again That way you clean and lubricate the chain inbetween pins and rollers while slowing down new dirt from entering it. Wax doesn't attract dirt like oil and grease do, it repels it. That means your drivetrain stays cleaner longer and even touching your chain doesn't leave any black residue on your hands. Plus wax is one of the best lubricants for bike chains.
@@Leviathandk Obviously wearring gloves and doing it outside is madatory and there are special cleaning gasoilines sold that contain less harmfull aromates and stuff like that. You shouldn't touch the gasoiline with bare hands or breathe the fumes.
(Sorry, different cleaning topic) I used muc off to clean my bicycle, but it is some really aggresive stuff, it ate away a layer of paint after a minute. Not for plastic bikes I guess! I use it with a little water now.
Managing contamination is a pain. Today I was in between changing brake pads on one bike and degreasing the cassette on another bike. I moved about 4m away from the exposed brake pads sitting on the bench to spray some foam degreaser onto a rag. Unfortunately I didn't notice the draft in my shed that immediately carried some of the particles directly over to the brake pads like a flock of homing pigeons. I was like "Oh FFS, really?!"
I put a bit on each pin and then rotate the drive train a few dozen times to work it in and then wipe any surface oil away with a rag buy turning the drivechain with the chain wrapped in a clean rag. Seems to work well and stops dirt building up on the chains surface.
Thanks for the video. 👍🏻👍🏻 It looks like you are using Bike Protect on a Matte frame?? I have a matte black MTB myself and are concerned if the Bike Protect result, will make the frame “shine” too much afterwards?? Mostly because I love the matte finish. Thnx
I still don't know if you have to lubricate the cassette or not? I tought a clean cassette and lubricated chain is the way to go? Next. De derailleur and the bottom bracket. Can you use some spray lubricant?
Great video, For someone who is new to biking. I’ve just cleaned my chain and lubed it for the first time. I’ve made a RU-vid video about it, I’ll release it in a couple of days once I edit it.
I like this wax chain lube ive got cos the whole drivetrain is pretty much silent and crud doesn't stick to it but the only problem it after washing the bike the chain gets surface rust on the links.
Yes, we have heard of people who still choose to heat up and wax chains. However, this used to be a more common back in the old days. People realised that there was no need to heat up the wax and melt it to the chain as it can be dissolved in a mild solvent. After this solution is applied the solvent evaporates, leaving just the wax-based ‘dry’ lubricant. It's a lot less hassle and saves having to split and rejoin the chain every time!
Yes. I wax after every 8 hours of riding, more frequently in wet conditions. It takes so little time to do, and despite what you hear about "solvent based waxes" - they don't work as advertised. Molten Speed Wax is the go.
Surprised nobody has answered this yet. I would do it. Not all derailleur/shifters share the same incremental mesasurements when shifting, even if they’re both the same gear count. Best to stick what your drivetrain is. There was a link that someone, maybe Park Tools (maybe not) that showed what all they’ve found that can cross reference with each other.
I remember have a Raleigh MTB , must of been 87 ish, it hardly ever had a wash , my dad would pump tyres till they were rock , bolts were done up as tight as they would go , once in a while he sprayed WD on the gearing and it never missed a beat that thing even after thousands of miles, marketing just wants us to spend a fortune on products to clean each part basically 🙈
A tooth toothbrush and other household brushes are good but we prefer to use specialist brushes can help prevent scratching the paintwork and can make the job easier. A cassette cleaning brush can really help get in between the rings!
Hooray Henry , or , ...... well , no , very good actually ......... pretty much reinforces what I did just this afternoon before tea , take the chain orff and clean the bejesus out of it and the rest of the drive train before lubing each roller and refitting the chain and riding slowly and gently on the pedals around my front yard in each of the 12 gears to evenly distribute the lube over the cassette , using a wax based lube myself as when dry it limits the build up of grit and grime a fair bit more than oil based lubes . My drive rain was covered in crap as I rode yesterday after our local area coped about 200 mm of rain over the previous 3 days , sand and mud were the alternating surfaces I rode on .
If you wash your bike with soap for dishes or other ways to clean it because you want to save money you need to watch out for your disc brakes because some of the products have oil in it. Do guys watch out before you buy or apply the wrong stuff!
#askgmbn The bolt connecting my rear shock to the linkage came out during a ride. Its a horst linkage bike and so the pivot ended up smashing into the shock and crushing the valve. Is it possible to replace the outer upper section of the shock or do I have to spring for a new one?
WD40..i drown my bike in it after a wash..including the calipers and discs. Its NOT a lubricant..it disperses any water left in the nooks and crannies. It dries after an hour. After that lube it up.
@@Drago0900 ended up crashing and had to big cuts on my elbows and hip. Could’ve gone a lot worse though so still quite thankful that I’m in one piece LOL
@@hfvvffvhh9719 Well atleast you won’t do that again right? A walmart bike assembler sprayed wd 40 on my brakes when I was like 12 and they were even louder because they were mechanicals and never had good grip.