yeah, theres a reason most horse jockeys are around 135 140 pds, if youre trying to min max and youve got the lighest parts possible in your ride, the only other way you can get it lighter is if you yourself lose weight haha.
In the early days of Formula One racing, the drivers were fat and the tires skinny, now the drivers are skinny and the tires fat. Apparently the drag and oval track guys didn't get the memo.
Bill Antalek jr 10yrs ago I lost 168lbs and have managed to keep it off. Saved my life not to mention getting in and out of the car and wrenching on it is way easier.
Yes Sir it saves you time cleaning up the mess from having the ass end of the car past your back side... Don't believe me, ask this man in the link below... www.nhra.com/videos/2017/don-garlits-1986-englishtown-blowover
this guy rules. i love his explanation on things. get that shit off. i watched videos on weight reduction to make my daily driver more nimble and this race car guy gave me more no frills facts then the past 14 videos i just watched. good work!
Part of the reason an airplane paint job is sort of crappy looking in most small single engine planes. Paint it just enough to cover it in color , orange peel and thin spots don't matter...when they look nice and show quality , thats not what you want.
I once got food poisoning from some bad chicken Thursday night before a Saturday dragbike race and came in 11# lighter, but it's not a technique I'd recommend, because most of Friday was spent near porcelain and i had very serious concerns about even being able to hang on before my first lap
Tim im a dirt track racer but i love watching your videos and getting some info on some similar things and your dont give a shit attitude love it man keep it up and tell it how it is
Just pulled a poorly performing harness out of my street/race car, i change my ignition component mount, new ignition module mount weighs less with an extra ignition booster than old mount by itself. Car was rewired, relays couldnt really be any further away than needed, so mount new relays next to where they are used instead of a small inept panel with wires criss crossing the car. Next up was dirt, old country car, plenty of solidified dirt where you cant see it, 29 pounds in 1 year. Thanks Aaron
Good common sense video. Thank You for all the the videos for guys like me! Last time at track 1985. -900 lbs and 100 ci with 500 more hp. Things have changed alot since 1985 except weight loss is better than free horse power. Your best at truth in set up and operation. Thank You for Sharing!!!
Hi Tim , thankyou so much for sharing your experience , I run a modest HillClimb car here in the Channel Islands and will take a lot from your videos and run those ideas on my car , oh and I'll be on a diet after x-mass .... thanks again Greg #4 Ford Puma
Tim I appreciate your time and advice you give. Wish this was available back in the mid eighties when I was in high gear on drag racing. We had lots of trial and error. More errors...lol keep up the great videos.
Can we get a Part 2? These are great, and I know you have more on your mind! I always find bolts in holes, doing nothing. Bolts way too long. Anything in front or behing the axles is suspect. Anything above the beltline is suspect. I notice on oem-converted and non-drag cars, full-size alternators, starters, and so many random fasteners to nowhere. And fat F$&ks too. Diet time.
G'day from down under. I watch all your stuff and try and apply it to a dragbike I'm building. In your travels can you suggest to someone in the two wheel fraternity to do a similar thing. Keep up the good work mate. Thanks.
Great tips. I have spent as much as $200 a pound to drop weight on Titanium parts only to replace it with lard in the seat. At that rate I easily could save $4000-$8000 in light weight parts. In a 1600 pound car that is doing 1.101 in 60 on sand would you give up 40-60 horse power to loose 100 pounds switching to an aluminum block?
That cheeseburger just cost ya .0001 on your run 🤣 Be sure to take a dump before a pass too, not only to save weight but in case you wreck you can't s**t yourself!
Ive been slowly (and tediously) replacing non stress/weight bearing mild steel hardware with low mass stainless or plastic, always looking for advantages in a full interior car. Got the trick from an article about a mopar super stock clone belonging to an old school guy from New York he built for street racing, dont remember what magazine it was in though.
I knew a guy that lost about 50 lbs to 65 lbs over the course of 6 months to a year, and the next time he got back in his car, just to get the feel of it again, after the off season and medical issue time of recouping, he came back to the pits, and was complaining to his team, that the car was all over the place and something was seriously wrong with the launch and handling.... And was not gonna push the rig until things were figured out.... Lol... Team next to him, stated, "you probably need to start at the beginning on setting up the car again, or you can eat a lot of pasta 6 times a day to put back on the weight".... Lol.. And that guy was right, his car was set up with his fat a$$ sitting in it. They actually spent the entire season dialing the rig back in to what he weighed being thinner... I personally don't know how bad his rig was, but I can understand how in tune we can get with a machine, and when something changes, we know, even after a bit of time away from it, especially, the fact that he had been rolling this same rig for about 10 years of so, and never missed an event that offered him some passes down a track...heck, he chose the race car over his wife of 7 years, lol, yes, they divorced... True story, she left him an ultimatum, "me or the car"..... He called a moving van service to have her stuff packed up, lol...
Tim you can correct me if I'm wrong but don't you want front weight on the car to prevent the car from becoming a airplane on a runway about to take off and if I wanted to say go 800 plus mph wouldn't I need lots of front downforce to still be able to steer and would I not be using a transmission or just a driveshaft from the rear axle to the motor?
Got to love it! I'm sitting here minding my own business learning a few tips on your site ( Love your content by the way) then my wife in the other room.. "SEE! IM NOT THE ONLY ONE THAT NEEDS TO LOSE A FEW!"..... 🤐 "I'M NOT SAYING YOUR FAT, YOU JUS GOTA LOSE A LITTLE WEGHT!" My response to her was I'm 62 years @ a buck 52 wet and can outrun 90% of the people I know aaaand my sons and grandkids fhat the wuck you talking about woman! 😎
I don't think I can shed much more physical weight these days. I am already at around 7% body fat. But I had taken the time to get back in better shape, and try to keep it off. I do wonder, with 3d printing and composites. How much weight can be dropped by removing some of sheet metal mounting brackets and switch panels. In favor of Plastics and composites. Some of the carbon, petg and nylons are more than strong enough to fill the place in these areas. With partial to significant weight savings.
I knew being a fat ass would be on the list. So funny!! On the wiring do you recommend the power management units over traditional fuse and relay panels? What brands?
best way to cut weight, and its free. Lose weight yourself.The driver weighs 10-15-20 pounds less and it means you are healthier and eating better etc.
