Hi gary! So far I have good news!.. I tested the wiring today and it was ok so I decided to tear down the solenoid pack, once I got it out decided to test solenoids on the connector and still had the L/R not working! then I opened it and tested them directly on the solenoid terminals and surprisingly the L/R was working perfectly!!.. I found out the terminals of the solenoid wasnt making contact with the "board".. I cleaned the terminals with sand paper and then put everything back together and now the solenoid is working fine! I still have to atach it to the valve body and put it back on the truck to test it! I'm praying so that solves all my problems! tomorrow I will let you know what happened
Gary thanks for replying back and trying to help, I wish all mechanics were like you. Most places will just tell you that this or that needs to be replaced.
@@GaryFerraro 2003 Corolla altis I got p0750 solenoid A reading and p0755 solenoid B reading please can you advice me as to what to do am from 🇯🇲 Jamaica
I got mine fixed based on this video. I did add one thing, powered up each solenoid with power and ground and checked the amp draw. Each solenoid pulled about 5a, including the one with the circuit code p0750. Sent the pcm out for repair, I got it back with the same problem. Based on this diag I knew the pcm was still the issue. Resent it back and the repair company confirmed bad. Went with a different company (Solo Electronics, based on your recommendation) for and plug and play pcm and it now works perfectly. Thanks again
Solenoid pack was fine, But after I received the "repaired pcm" back I second guessed myself even though everything tested fine and replaced the solenoid pack anyways. Same problem, resent the pcm back and and it was bad. Replaced pcm with reman from Solo and all is well.
Thank you for making this type of videos I been learning a lot from your videos. May be in the future you can make a video of any special tools or modified home made tools to work on transmissions I am new to the transmission rebuild And would highly appreciate some tips
Great video I just had my check engine light go off and went to a shop and they scanned it and this code came up. They pretty much told me my transmission needs to be rebuilt about $2500. I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota it doesn't feel like it's slipping at all hopefully its just my solenoid pack. I can't believe how fast they told me I just needed to have my trans rebuilt.
+adam cain If the code is P0750, this is a striaght up electrical code. If you have an ohm meter you can check it yourself, is the car in failsafe mode?
+adam cain Failsafe is when the trans stays in one gear only,usually 3rd. The P0700 is just a generic code, there should be another code, do you have other codes present?
Have this occur on crane systems. Good video. My friends 1500 ram just burnt a solenoid pack. You can smell burned plastic strong. Very easy to change though.Thanks
Enjoy your channel. Thanks. Best way to quickly diagnose those solenoid codes is with an ammeter in my opinion. Jump the relay so you have power and ground each solenoid. The amps on the L/R circuit would have been different than the other three solenoids. Ohms will fool you sometimes. LOL Keep up the good work!
Hi, thank you kindly for this video. I tested the pins for LR (currently getting P0750) and my reading is way out of spec. Around 22.75. I understand what it means if it’s at 0, but what does it mean if it’s wayyyy out of spec like that?
Hi gary I found a diagram of the solenoid pack connector and I tested the solenoids from the transmission relay output to pins #1,2,6,10 and I got 2.6 ohm on each solenoid except the L/R solenoid, that one I got no Ohm measurement.. so I changed the cable in the c4 connector with the OD solenoid and the code in my scanner changed.. just like it did on your video.. so know I want to know if i can put the L/R solenoid cable directly to 12v to try to hear if the solenoid works or to measure the Amp
+Jose Saturno With that different code, we know now the solenoid is the problem, its probably shorted out, putting 12 volts to that wont really help, at this point the pack will have to be changed. Good work diagnosing the problem. If the ohm reading is not correct, then amps will not be correct either.
not sure if anyone gives a shit but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times you can stream pretty much all of the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Been watching with my gf recently =)
I may need your help with one more thing! when I pulled down the valve body the parking pawl rod was atached to the mechanism and I saw some videos about the assembly of the valve body but I dont see anybody even mentioning how to atach it again.. I heard you have to move the axle to L position but I dont understand how it comes atached again on that piece.. if you know something about I will appreciate your help.. thank you!!
+Jose Saturno To reinstall the valvebody, the linkage on the valvebody has to be in the low range position, the valvebody should bolt right up and then just move the linkage to confirm it moves freely.
Hello, Gary. Great video, but I do have a quick question. Do you have a link to the diagram you showed, so I can make I'm checking the right pins? Thank you.
I’m having problems with my truck getting codes p0700 which is generic and giving the issue p0876? Switch out the sensor it said and nun does sams stuff at 40mph hit limp mode switched transmission still does the same stuff what can I do?tech said it’s my solenoid pack and wiring is good?
armando nika The computer is programmed to see certain settings,when a transmission starts slipping and it goes out of its allowable limit it will set a code. The computer monitors the ratio and if it sees a change it will flag a code, also, when the computer sees the transmission slipping, it will raise line pressure to try to compensate for the slip to try to save the trans.
+Gary Ferraro thank you very much, i saw that you really put everything and try to help everyone( giving answers, wiring diagrams and valuable experience) very kind of you. I wish you all the best take care.
We seem to get one of these every three months or so... Especially on the Durangos. Now we're dealing with a 2006 Ram 1500 4wd 5.7 with the 545RFE with 150,000miles. It came in 2 months ago in failsafe. This customer is bad for putting things off so who knows how long they drove it before they finally brought it in... We put a new solenoid pack in it. It also had some slight engine issues. But the truck drove well so they took it. A couple weeks later they called to say it occasionally stalls on them. A very sudden stall after coming to a stop. Now, just a few days ago they finally brought it in. I spent a bunch of time chasing down engine issues. It had a lot of minor issues but nothing that would cause it to suddenly stall. Then finally it stalled on me. Now I can get it to stall pretty regularly. The engine's not the problem. The truck doesn't like to creep especially when it's warm. At times it'll have a minor lurch when first creeping. It'll have a few minor lurches then it feels like something kicks in and it starts creeping better. No codes. Fluid fresh and good level. To make it stall you need to light throttle cruise in 3rd or 4th going say 30+ mph then come to a sudden stop and stay there. After half a second or so it feels like the transmission is dragging the engine down. The longer you cruise and the shorter you stop the better chances are it'll stall. If it stalls it'll start right back up with no problems. If you shift into neutral right as you stop then it'll be fine. The truck drives and shifts great. Lots of power, no slipping, nice quick shifts, kicks down good, no delayed engagement, etc. The pan is clean as can be. Was clean 2 months ago when we did the solenoid pack. I'm thinking torque converter but I don't want to R&R the trans just to find out that's not the problem... I'm not really sure what I could do to feel more confident in changing the converter. I guess I might notice something while monitoring the input speed sensor data..? Under normal conditions that should fall to zero as vehicle speed approaches zero. If the converter were dragging the engine down I would think the input speed should be non zero when the vehicle is stopped and should reduce in time with engine rpm..?
I found a Chrysler manual online and poured over the hydraulic flow diagrams. I thought I was on to something! Maybe a faulty solenoid pack? The low/reverse solenoid also controls the converter clutch. When it's fully closed it's applying the low/reverse and when it's modulated it's applying the converter clutch. So I thought, "Hey, maybe it's coming off its seat a little and supplying some fluid pressure to the converter clutch!" But in order for the fluid to get to the converter clutch it has to get past the solenoid switch valve. And that can only happen if the 4C, 2C or OD solenoids are also engaged or the multi select solenoid is NOT engaged... That seems kinda far fetched. I guess it's possible the converter clutch valve could be sticking open a little..? That alone would allow some fluid passage. It says there are TCC apply and release pressure ports on the side of the tranny. That might be the way to go.
Hello, you could monitor input speed and engine rpm to see if they are very close to being the same when in lock-up. Yes there is those taps on the side, if you go into the tcc off tap, you should have pressure until it goes into lock-up. (im dealing with a lock-up issue now on a 42RLE and its alittle confusing, when the car heats up i loose the pressure on the tcc off tap) If you go into that tap let me know what the pressure does, im curious to see if it does the same thing . Also in that pump is where the tcc valves are on the earlier units i would find the tcc limit valve spring broken alot. how are the garage shifts does it seem to stumble when engaging in drive or reverse.
Had some more time to look at the truck. Data didn't tell me much. There was lots of construction so wasn't able to get it up to highway speeds. I did see some difference between input and engine speeds. Maybe 30 RPMs or so. But that might have just been during partial lockup. I wasn't able to go any faster than about 40mph. The pressure chart out of the manual is for 1500 RPM. Both the TCC apply and release ports were showing 0psi at idle. Not sure if that's normal. The flow diagrams make it look like there should be some pressure even at idle. The TCC release pressure was pretty much bang on spec. It was 45-75psi unapplied and dropped to a steady 0 when applied. The TCC apply pressure was almost always 0. Pretty much only had pressure under heavy throttle. Even cruising fast enough where the scantool said the TCC was engaged, the TCC apply pressure would be 0. Hit the throttle hard while cruising and the pressure would momentarily jump to 35-50 psi but then fall back down to nothing.
Seems like all is working ok, i just did a 42RLE hooked up to the release port and kinda got the same thing, i came to the conclusion that all my valves were working the way they should and my converter was the problem. If you have a 30 rpm difference thats not to bad(out of range for me, i like to see below 10 rpm) So when this stalls are you coming down to a stop?
Sorry for the late reply, but i confirmed that my issue is the converter, i flushed out the transmission cooler and the screen was loaded with clutch material
you know I cut the cables of the L/R solenoid and the UD solenoid to chance them in the pcm. but it is normal that if I leave both disconnected I am still having only the p0750 solenoid A? shouldnt I have the code for the UD solenoid too?
+Gary Ferraro and based on your experiences when that happen it gets solved with the solenoid pack or its something else?.. i am on the way to my shop to check the wiring i'll let you know if i have continuity
+Jose Saturno More than likely the solenoid pack is bad, since the solenoid was ohmed at the computer and not at the solenoid pack itself, just as precaution i like to check the wire.
i lowered it to 20k scale and it shows 16.08 ohms.. if i lower it more it goes out of range and i get no reading. And yes the L/R still giving me that crazy reading.. I found that if I test from pin #11 to pin #1 or pin #2 I get 7 ohms reading.. I dont know if that means something
hello Gary I need you help I keep getting a po988 on my 04 ram 1500. with a 45rfe trany how can I troubleshoot the wiring I already change the selenoid pack and didn't do any difference,so wen and change the computer but it work for a few days and know is giving me the same code again. What else can I do
Changed my silanoid pack,fluid,filter and out sensor, car shifts mostly but sometimes goes on limp mode..gives codes for p0750 and also trans pressure codes..please any advise..thinking about changing the in sensor also
I disconnected the solenoid pack connector in the transmission then reseted the ecu with the scanner but after a minutes the code still showing and is the same p0750 shift solenoid A
Had same code, P0750, on a 2008 Jeep Commander 5.7L; same transmission. Ohmed out 10-19 at 140 ohms. Pins 10-2, 4, 6, 8 all were 140 as well. Replaced solenoid block; new one had 1.6 ohms between 10-19 and 3.0 ohms between 10 and the rest. Problem solved, wife is happy. Thanks for an informative video.
Hey Gary. i'm pulling up this same code and i'm a little confused. i was looking into replacing the solenoid pack. i got a 2000 Durango 5.9l with a 46re trans but i can't quite find the pack for it just governor pressure solenoids kit. hoping you could shed some light on this i'm not very knowledgeable about transmissions
Do you know the definition of the code? Some of the codes on this trans begin with P17, is it possible your code could be P1750? The 46RE does not have a low/reverse solenoid. It has an Overdrive and lock-up solenoid, a govenor solenoid and transducer.
got around to testing it again. got a P0750 Description "Shift Solenoid 1 Performance (MS7 4-speed Transaxle) Cause: Engine running, vehicle in drive at cruise speed, then the PCM detected that the actual gear did not match the commanded gear. fault code firs said just "Shift solenoid A"
Ohms change when solenoid is hot from current and heat of oil. May read 1.5 when cool then open or short when hot. Copper windings expanding in coil from heat. Trans 200° plus current heat.
Hey Gary, been watching ur videos trying to help my buddy troubleshoot his 06 Durango, he's gotten to the pcm but doesn't know which connector is c4 . I imagine it's numbered left to right, but it's sat in front to back and he's confused, he's in Salina Kansas 3 hours away and I'm in Kansas City, kinda difficult, any help? He's also getting battery codes and communication codes, as well as the 700 and 750
The c-4 connector should be the end one, when unplugged should be green conector. Question, if the codes get cleared what comes back? I would think the connector would be in the back, but if the connector is green , thats it
Gary Ferraro P1684 p0700 and p0750 trying my best to video call information hahaha it's not working too well I can't see what he's seeing quite as well. Btw he lives around the corner from oreilleys he's had the codes cleared and it works fine no codes for a mile or so, then they set after a couple of miles, and goes into limp mode. He just got back to me, all ohm at 1.9 except l/r solenoid which ohms at .8
I have 2004 dakota with the 545rfe transmission. I was getting codes for shift solenoids 3 and 4. I got a rebuilt solenoid pack, and put it in. now I am getting a P0750 code. I checked the ohms like in your video. they read 1.9 except for the LR/TC solenoid. it flashed a high number and then went blank. I tried this multiple time and got the same response. is this a bad solenoid pack.
+Jose Saturno Ok, lets try another pin, just to confirm you are getting a reading on the meter. Pin#1 is the overdrive circuit that is a Yellow/gray wire. Pin #2 Is the underdrive circuit and that wire is Yellow/Light blue.
I replaced my solenoid and transmission still went into limp mode , checked harness and all was great , I don't understand why it's still in limp mode , had a permanent code p0750 before replacing the solenoid pack and after it's a pending code now , what gives ? 2004 Dodge Durango 4.7l 545rfe
Gary Ferraro yes it does p1775 trans temp and p0750 pending comes right back on what's funny if I start it and put in drive quickly codes won't show and all is fine but the moment I shift back into park codes happen , did what you said all was fine too , I'm leaning towards bad pcm
I really appreciate your 6L80 and 4L60 videos. I have a problem with a 4R70W that will go to a almost neutral state between 1 & 2. I have cleaned the valve body and changed the dual solenoid, didn’t work. I do get a P0750 code, that’s why I changed what I did. Is the 1-2 servo the most probable culprit?
@@jodypearman8526 ok, you could have an issue with the hard wire internal harness, also, unplug the connector on the side of the trans check for corrosion. Does the code come right back after cleared?
What is the difference between a transmission control solenoid and a kick down solenoid? I went to Oreilys and had them check my engine light. Plus I'm stuck in forth gear. They get a PO750 code and tell me it is the transmission control solenoid that they have for $420. So I've been searching the internet and haven't been able to find anything on a transmission control solenoid but like your post here I am seeing a lot about kick down solenoids. The thing is they list both on their website but the kick down solenoid is around $200 with a $200 core charge. Also I read up a little on the transmissions and apparently up to 2012 they had the 545RFE transmission but in 2012 models they came out with the 65 RFE. Again almost everything I find is about the 545RFE concerning the shift solenoid. Will the shift solenoids work for both trannys? I don't know. I'm going to tear into it this weekend. I guess I will just have to feel it out as I go.
@@GaryFerraro hello I’m recently having the same issue with truck. I followed all your step beside plugging in a new solenoid pack but I am not able to find one at my part store near me.
hi gary I took out the solenoid package to replace the L/R solenoid with another one a friend gave me and I didnt mark them in the position the were and now i have only first gear and R doesnt engage.. do you have any solenoid pack that you can open and send me pictures of wich selenoid goes in what position?
+Jose Saturno when i changed the solenoid the transmission was perfect! I drove for the whole day and it worked perfect.. I turned off the car and when I started it again y couldnt get to move it. I put Drive and the transmission made a hard engage to 4th and the truck shut down.. today I took out the solenoids again and changed the position but now i cant get R and only 1st in drive
Gary I had the code 0750 and confirmed it on two places. So, I changed the solenoid pack with Mopar brand $400. But now not only I have code 0750, I also have code 0700 and at the start the TPMS lights blinks for the few seconds and then stops. Any idea?
@@GaryFerraro This is very strange. Sometimes, the transmission will shift right and the engine light which was previously illuminated will turn off by itself . But many times the transmission will go into the limp mode. When I replaced the solenoid, the car drove fine for few miles shifting gear properly. But the second day, it started doing the same thing again and now throwing two codes 0750 and 0700.
@@GaryFerraro Not yet. But I will do next. Also, when I removed the connector, it was very tight and very hard to disconnect. But now I have pushed all the way down and it is locking but not as tight as it was before.
@@waqarsyed4230 Those are tight, sometimes some crap my get in there make a little tight but may loosen up. Ohming the solenoid at the PCM will check the wire and connector and solenoid pack
Thank you for sharing this information. Please help me fix this van that's been broken for almost 3 years. I have a 09 Chrysler town and country van with transmission 62te. I'm getting code p0755 (2-4 or 2c solenoid circuit) I want to ohm test the solenoids but I think the "transmission control relay/battery voltage" pin number and solenoids pin numbers are different from the ones you tested. Are the truck and van diagrams different? I suppose to do this ohm test all I got to disconnect is the C4 green face connection? I just want to make sure that all sensor connections to the transmission need to stay plugged in to transmission to be able to do this test. Any help is greatly appreciated by all us diy at home.
@@GaryFerraro , I will email you and once again thanks not many people will take the time to teach others. I've had this van broken for so long due to lack of funds. I was told it needed a tranny rebuilt again so I took it out but then I saw your video and before going any further I'd like to make sure my wiring is not the problem. This tranny was rebuilt due to same p0755 and after rebuilt it shift good for 6 months til it went in limp mode again and I let it sit for almost 3 years until now.
I let it run for 10 mins and did not get a code, I drove it around the block and did not get a code, but it is still stuck in limp mode. The code reader has p0750 and p0700
The jeep doesn’t have a code on it. I did clear them before I did the solenoid to see if the code would come back which it hasn’t but I haven’t drove it for any amount of time. Any ideas other then the solenoid? It’s a shift solenoid a code
That usually points to a wire, computer or solenoid pack, if you watched the video i did, i swapped the wires at the computer to confirm my problem was the solenoid pack. What type of scanner are you using to pull codes?
I have code p0750 on my 09 cherokee liberty, the scanner says "solenoid shift A".. I want to do the same thing you did switching the cables to see if the code changes because I´m fixing it myself and dont want to disarm the transmission unless i am totally sure about what is wrong, but my c4 connector doesnt have the same pins that the one you are showing in your video.. Are you able to find the pinout diagram for the pcm I have? the number in the label is 983AD..
i had the same hard code... but had some issues testing ohms, but 10,2,4,6 were all the same...i then switched 10 and 8 as you did and also got the same code, does this mean i should swap the solenoid pack?
Well, if your getting the same code with the wires switched and all is plugged in, that may be a computer problem. what you may want to do is send the PCM out to be checked. I use a company in miami called SOLO Eletronics(been using them for years) I call them up tell them what code i have and they check the computer. Was anything done t o the car, that you started having this problem?
I have this code on my 2005 Grand Cherokee 5.7. I cleaned the EATX relay, changed the valvebody solenoid pack and installed the Transgo kit, and I still have the P0750 Shift Solenoid A code. Any ideas?
@@GaryFerraro Yeah, I clear it, it goes directly to limp mode (3rd gear) when putting it in drive, and then if I drive it for a minute or two the P0750 code comes up. It will not come up when sitting idle in park.
@@CHAOSMOVEMENT see if the code will come up when drive is selected and your not moving, if it does you can switch the wires to see what code comes back
@@GaryFerraro Ok, so if it happens at idle in drive, I would have to pull the pins from both sides of the harness, and switch them with another solenoid wire, and if I get a code for that solenoid, then that wire is bad? If I get the same code than it's the PCM then, and what happens if I dont get any code while it's idle in drive? Would that also point to the PCM?
Wattage volt x amp = heat. Curious on amp draw. I am an engineer and familiar with nerd equations. I am convinced that the cooler the trans oil the longer the life of a tranny 150°+- max. I have backhoe and run extra coolers when pushing hard. Also 7.3 powerstroke plow truck I just had e4od redone again. This time I Am putting a fan cooled trans cooler on it and plow in L1 2wd. Super hot trans oil cooks plastic solenoid insulation and orings etc I am sure. I see guys pushing snow trans temp above 220° crazy! Ford says that's OK? I don't buy it.
Great video. I've got a code of p0770 solenoid 4C on my 2005 dodge Dakota. Only strange thing is the truck runs perfect with no codes for 2 or 3 days the it goes into limp mode non-stop for a few days. I've already changed out the solenoid pack so I know that's not it. It's either a PCM or a bad wire running to the transmission but how can I test? I don't know which pin on the pcm connector to try a continuity test. Thanks in advance for any help
+Gary Ferraro it's a 4.7 and just in case it matters 4x4. If the PCM is going bad would it work intermittently? Also the transmission temp light comes on P0218 but it's random as well. I'll start the truck in the morning ( after parked all night ) and the temp light will come on for either a min and off or when I kill the truck and restart the light is off. I have to admit this thing is driving me nuts trying to figure it out.
very possible it is bad, when you have solenoid circuit codes, that usuaaly means solenoid pack, wiring or computer. The solenoid pack you put in is a new one?
+Gary Ferraro the only thing that really has me puzzled is it done the same thing about a year ago but only one time. I pulled over on the side of the road turned the truck off and then back on and never messed up until 2 weeks ago. Now it's almost non stop. It will work perfect for a day or so then nothing but limp in mode for a few days. No rhyme or reason either, one day can't get out of the driveway without limp in mode and other days 15 miles down the road before it goes into limp in mode.
Hey so I have a 2006 jeep commander I am getting code p0700 and p0750 and also my transmission is stuck in limp mode (stuck in 3rd gear) and now I noticed if I go for a little drive and I park it I can hear a whirring sound coming from the tranny pan can the solenoid pack make noise ?
exactly. i had p0750 then i disconnected the solenoid pack a reset the code. I unplugged the scanner and turned off the car, the I turned it on again and plugged the scanner and the code showed again
@@GaryFerraro I checked it today with the battery connected. But the meter was all over the place I don’t think I have a good meter I set it at 20 ohms and every on would jump all over the place. Anyway after plugging the c4 connector the check engine light came back on for P0750 so I’m guessing the communication between the computer and solenoid are good.
@@GaryFerraro I did check the other pins. They jump as well. I don’t get the 1.5 ohm reading like in your video. Should I check with the battery disconnected?
Hi, I am from Venezuela and I have a Dodge Dakota 2007 transmissions 42rle and have a problem with the code P1745 and I have been told several things, that is the solenoid body or that is the PCM or the wiring could indicate to me that cause that problem and That I really have to change since here in Venezuela everything is very difficult and expensive for the situation greetings, thanks
There usually is another code present with that code, are there any other codes? what are you using to scan the car? This trans has the varible line pressure solenoid, and its seeing a problem with that, any other codes?
This code means, line pressure is too high for to long, this trans is actually a 42RLE/VLP(variable line pressure) along with the solenoid pack(which is not your problem) there is a single 2 pin solenoid with a seperate harness, the computer is seeing an issue with that solenoid. The P1745 doesnt really pinpoint the problem(this code is just a "counter", this problem may have been there for a while) thats why im asking if another code is present.
Good morning, sorry for the delay is that I was without internet signal that here is very common not to have internet, as I could reset that code or it is necessary to change the solenoid body, or change a specific solenoid, anyway I will check each cable To see if there is any problem, thank you for your time and sorry.
ok this is what happened.. I put the multimeter on 200 k ohm scale and pin #1 and #2 are showing 16.0 k ohm.. but if i test the pin #10 the value never stops changing. It goes up to 100 then down to 40 even -40 and then up again to 200 then down to 0 and it keeps like that
+Jose Saturno 200K ohm scale is too high, the 16k ohms is probably 1.6, Sounds like somethings with that solenoid or wire, if your getting a crazy reading, the net step is to check the wire inbetween the pcm and the solenoid pack, just for the heck of it lower your scale see if in fact you have 1.6 and the l/r is still crazy reading.
I have a 2012 ram 1500. I have same code. At times when im driving. The truck will go into 4th gear and i cant shift up or down i have to pull over turn truck off and on. Then its back to normal. U thi k its the solenoid pack
I'm getting the po750 code changed the solenoid pack twice still getting the same code I ohmed out pins 10 and 19 from the TCM plug and I get an open circuit any help what to do next would be well appreciated thank you
Thank you for responding I do not know where wire from pin 11 and wire from 19 goes to I tried to look up a wiring diagram online I cannot seem to find where these two wires connect into the transmission solenoid do you have any idea which pins on the solenoid are for these two wires
@@autoglassxpress6118 ok, just to confirm, your on the C4 Connector, when unplugged the inside of the connector is Green, Pins 10 and 19 are the correct pins
same tranny (545rfe), different code: p0869l line pressure high fault.. changed solenoid pack, transmission pan and filters, line pressure sensor and even the transducer cable end that connects to the line pressure sensor.. still have a static line pressure of 251.37 psi (4.7 v)? what could it be?..
yes.. i clear it and it comes right back.. line pressure remains static.. does not move, and voltage as well.. remains at 251 psi, voltage static at 4.1v
Let me save you all a lot of money and time. I have had this happen 3 times on three different makes of vehicles. Go buy a new battery. Why, because the Tranny shifts with electricity. The first solenoid that gets energized is the L/R. If the battery does not have enough AMPs to operate the solenoid properly, it throws code P0750. A new (Fully Charged) battery should be the first diagnostic step. Even in the unlikely event an new battery does not fix the issue, it is a required step in further diagnosing the issue. Don't think that if your battery tests out at 12 volts its OK. Todays vehicles use a LOT of AMPS. Its hard on the battery. Mine always check out as good with the meter, and then when I swap the battery, The codes miraculously go away.
Ok, with the scanner look for the 4C pressure switch and as you shift through the gears(P,R,N,D) see if changes state, if you need help with wiring i probably have something on shopkey, but i would need your vin number so i get the correct diagram
@@GaryFerraro Transmission relay always off..possible causes: faulty t control relay.. trans control relay harness us open or shorted,trans control relaycircuit poor electrical connection. Faulty trans solenoid/pressure switch assemble..I have a multimeter a test light and some other device I just don't know where to start. This is my first dodge,I don't know where to start
+Jose Saturno You said you disconnected the solenoid pack and reset the code, did the code come right back? i have access to a wiring diagram to give you some info
The code comes back almost right away. It drives and shifts normal threw all the gears. Just when i am at a stand still it takes a second for my truck to go
+adam cain With that code im very suprised it shifts, this is an electrical circuit code, when you say it takes a second for the truck to go, does it take off slow from a stop or normal.
I have a 07 with the same code it was my dads truck it sat for 4 months before he passed away and it was working before parking it I changed the pack out and still have the same problem could a squirrel got under there and chewed wires
@@GaryFerraro I didn’t I did switch the wires now and it had a different code like urs so I’m going to see about getting a different pack maybe and trace the wires down to it thanks for ur reply
@@GaryFerraro got it off a place that sells them refurbished off of Amazon.First one came broken so they told me to keep it and sent me another one. I didn’t have the 400 to 500 dollars at the time to buy a brand new one.
+Gary Ferraro yes i drove the car for like half an hour to test if the L/R solenoid replacement solved the problem and it was working just great.. i went back to the shop and like and hour later when i was going home i turned it on and it didnt work anymore.. just R was working and when i put Drive it made a hard engage like on 4th and the car shut off
+Gary Ferraro yes I checked it before going out when it was working ok and when i got the problem again double checked and was at the same level but anyway I added 1 more just to be sure
+Jose Saturno do you think this could be caused for the kind of oil? I live in Venezuela and here its very very hard to find the atf+4 and when I did the job the first time i lost a lot of oil and the only kind i found here was dexron 4 and i filled the transmission with it
hey Gary do you have an email. I'm having problems with my trany ,is a ram 1500 2004,I talk boy you a few time nut I don't know if you remember. I still need help
+adam cain Ok, on your car. The C4 connector, pin#10 Light Green wire is the L/R solenoid control. Ohm the solenoid, see what you have and compare it to pin#8 Yellow/LT Blue wire (underdrive solenoid) and also pin#1Yellow/gray wire(overdrive solenoid) They should all ohm the same.
NEVER back probe a pcm connector. Bring it to a professional. Too many times at the dealership I see issues because people do this and then have further issues because of pain damage.
