6.0 Powerstroke Popular No Start 

I'm on a mission to tell everyone, the last thing you do before you take out the valve cover bolts is plug all openings and clean clean clean the entire area around and above the covers and of course the covers themselves. I watch all the 6.0 videos and see guys, time after time, risking some piece of grit or grime falling off the wiring or turbo or....It's not worth the risk, and makes visual inspection of everything not just easier and better, but flat meaningfully possible. Working with grit and grime all around the components is the way many amateurs wind up paying some grinning "professional" mechanic WAY too much to fix something the layman got right in general, but didn't notice that big chunk of crud fall off the hood into an opening to the oil channels while he was moving around the truck and bumped something loose while not watching/noticing. You cannot work on engines etc. in any vehicle while it is covered with crud, period. Cleaning very thoroughly makes auto repairs way more convenient, productive, dependable...and last but not least WAY less unpleasant. If you don't believe me, just give it a try once. At the machine shop I worked at nobody touched an engine until it had been steam cleaned. Hundreds of potentially expensive comebacks and future disgruntled customers were avoided because you could actually see quite clearly everything from leaks to broken wiring and components. If you think working on a nice clean engine isn't really that much less unpleasant, you haven't spent much time working on engines. A person who works on a dirty engine is giving themselves a big handicap in so many ways. And finally, dirt holds in engine heat and holds moisture and corrosive elements that degrade things like wiring etc. .

Absolutely the BEST video on YT for this problem!..thanks for all the details that most dont have a clue..man, you covered everything and you knocked it outta the park! Great Job!

This video is an absolute gold mine of information. Thanks!

Earned yourself a subscription, excellent job on breaking down the 6.0. Keep it up!

Great video! I like the way you explain everything in detail and troubleshooting after fixing one thing.

Thanks my guy most guys use clips but you nailed this tutorial. It helped a lot. Thank you.

This is really great video. Very easy to follow along with as well as very informative. Thank you

There’s something oddly satisfying when torquing those type of injectors ... Good video Tone, great information. 👍🏼

A real good video. This guy took the time to explain really well. One of the best videos on this engine I have seen. Thanks! Hank

Nice work Man! I think I have this same issue going on! This video gives me the info and confidence to tackle it!

Thanks for the video Tone, you would be a great diesel class teacher!!!

Great video. The detail and clarity of info is awesome and much appreciated 👍

That's a great video. I really learned that. You did a good job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙏

Hi Tone, thank you for great content. I have 2006 6.0 diesel that has issue with: A. not responding to the throttle accurately, delayed B. not reaching full RPM range (1800 to 2000 MAX RPM) at full throttle (at neutral gear or when driving) C. quits after 30 sec, 2,4 or 6 min. and/or unpredictable times, at idle or higher RPMs, D. at idle scanner tool displays (ICP psi actual and IPR % ) graph that looks like two waves that constantly go up and down opposite of each other. E. FICM at 48 Volt constantly F. Base oil pressure test PASSED G. Fuel filter bubble test PASSED H. Fuel pressure test with the engine load test PASSED Replaced (USING OEM PARTS) 1.all oil rail Orings and stand pipes, dummy plugs 2. Sensors: ICP, IPR, Exhaust back pressure, cam. & crank positioning, 3. FICM & ECM Please let me know what would you do to fix this problem. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f1cxJT2paj8.html

Thank you! Very Informative, I learned a lot in 40min

Just watched your video about troubleshooting the HPO system on 6.0. I’m in the process of dealing with that on mine. I thought it was FICM related. New FICM with tune, new high amp alternator and new batteries…..still long crank start. Brought to my preferred garage today and when dropping it off, no start…..I bought the test tool which threads into the IPR from Accurate Diesel. I intend to leave it with the young lad who is my awesome Ford Dealer Diesel Tech. Your video was fantastic. 100% spot on and we’ll done. Thanks for providing it.

Nice video Sir, thanks for taking the time!

Awesome man! I’m in the middle of troubleshooting a no start on an 04 excursion right now. Wasn’t building icp. Waiting for a new ipr to come in but the visual you did with the air test and the tubes made me order the test kit and now ill do the air test as well. Not all hero’s wear capes! Thanks!

Very Informative and detailed- good teacher.

Thank you for sharing this! I just got a non running 6.0 truck, and I am doing some preliminary research. Videos like yours make the learning process very enjoyable, thank you again

I am very satisty with your demonstration ..good explanation.💪

Great video, thank you so much!

Right on very educational thanks much. Looking to more updates.

Thanks Tom very informative video, I'm having a similar issues with 6.0L this will help.

Thank you Tone for info, very informative

Awesome video buddy… I definitely learned a lot more about my 6.0!

Awesome video, thank you sir 👍😁

Thanks for this video. You explain the issues very well. I had a mechanic rebuild my engine last year, and it died 8 weeks later, and he didn't warranty his work. I ended rebuilding it myself with starting issues when hot. I replaced the nipple seals, downspout, dummy plugs and all the seals on the HPOP. I hope to start it tomorrow.

good video dude, very thorough!!!

Very informative, good job.

My respects to you man! Thanks for that teaching.

Really good explanation about, problem with 6.0 , nice video broo

Awsome video. It really really helped me!!!!! Thanks!!!!

Great Tech!!

Very, very, well done 👏

Thanks 🙏🏽 great video

Before starting with key, disconnect starter wire and crank it for about 10 seconds, about 3 times. THEN crank it with the key, that way it'll fill it up the system with oil before the real crank

bro awesome work thanks

You are the man, thank you boss. Awesome video, keep up the amazing work boss. Love, Peace, and fifth wheel grease brother 🤙🤙. Help me out alot.

👍 great video!

Great video.

Thank you for diag steps more videos like this please

Great video good information and I like chalino Sanches in the back

Great job, well explain

Perfect video 👍

great video!!

excellent video . i am currently working on an 06 cranks no start ,. now i know what my next step is . thanks

Great info

Thanks for this video man I learned a lot

El corrido del cochilo con mi compa chalinoo en este viedo. Really good video by tue way

Awesome video my 2004 is having a intermediate no crank then start. Im going to go through the process but believe it is the HPOP connection.

Gracias por este video, ahora se porque mi troca no enciende, que bueno que deja a mis paisanos escuchar música en español,

Thanks very much nice

Awesome video man!!! Great diag process with the tips and fix! Keep these kind of videos coming brother! Also another tip on those IPRs is that screen make sure it comes off with the sensor I have seen them multiple time stay inside the port and gotta fish em out before putting a new one!

Good Job Sr

You GREAT MASTER ON DIESEL THANKS

Ur great 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼

good teacher

Good video. I have a crank no start on my 05 6.0. In an emergency earlier i had to hit with small shot of either to start. Once she was running, she ran good. But at home, wont start. Stan pipes and dummy plugs are getting ordered

Very good video, saved and would certainly recommend it but for anyone watching,, @24:52 that is the oil drain back tube inlet to the hpop cover not where the ipr sensor connects.

Good job

Great video! Point blank!!!!!

Good job explaining the theory of operation and repair.

Thank you you are the clearest on what to check I have one now that I'm having trouble with I put a oil cooler and a new turbo on it and it ran once and it was blowing oil out of the exhaust so I thought I did something wrong then I couldn't get it to start so I removed the IPR and the screen was collapsed so I put a new one in and then it started and ran for about 10 minutes then died and I haven't got it to run after that it has become a nightmare for me I just made a presser fitting to put in the icp to check for leaks if there is anything else please help me with this thing

Man, I sort of miss working on 6.0's and 7.3's but I have to admit it was much easier access in internationals. Awesome video man!

That’s what makes the air test difficult, once the oil is out of the rail, the air leaks out pretty easy. Creates a lot of doubt, also once the truck is all back together, that long crank creates some worry too lol.

haha shouldve pulled that sticker off too lol right on awesome vid helps me out thanks alot buddy well explained

Definitely going to be watching this video again. You Really broke it down and explained everything from scan data, to why your air testing. Great job Brotha. I did have one question though. When would you want to air test the High Pressure Oil Pump (IPR)? Is Air testing from the ICP doing the same as the IPR Or is there a specific reason why you’d want to Air test one or the other? Thanks 🍻😎🤙🔧

Man that's a lot of work

Very helpful and informative, this guy knows his powerstrokes. I am currently applying everything he discusses here on a 2007 International 4200 flatbed with the notorious VT 365 engine (glorified 6.0 powerstroke or worse than depending on who you ask) next up re-programming a J1939 datalink ecm to overlook egr inconsistencies because of a egr cooler delete. Any help or pointers? I have a snap-off prolink and N.E.D software available I just don't know how to use them apparently lol.

Great video! I’m only about 12 minutes in, but, is testing for this air leak / lack of oil high pressure, this procedure where the valve covers need to come off, more difficult in an E-350 van with a doghouse engine cover inside the cab? I’m asking in comparison to the truck depicted in your video. Thanks.

I have a cold no start and a hot no start. It will fire with some diesel starting fluid, but I have to do it every-time! Replaced stand pipes and the right side inj seals. Right side nipple cups w/HRC and found a bad o-ring. Rane fine for about 8 months and started acting up again. Going to replace the left side cups and inj seals tomorrow depending on the weather. One weird thing is that my stereo,alarm and door locks stopped working?

Great video,thank you! Can you say about what mileage you see this issue happening on the 6.0’s?

Possible causes of no start (low ICP PSI ) only when hot? Builds icp psi when cold, runs fine but wont restart hot . Thanks For vid

Our 2005 6.0 has been bulletproofed and runs like a champ but it won’t start without starting fluid. You can drive it 500 miles and then shut it off at the gas station to refuel it and hit the key and she cranks like crazy but will never start. Give it a shot of starting fluid and she fires right up and drives fine. Temp outside makes no difference. Andy ideas???

Just got done doing a bullet proof egr and oil coolers white exhaust is gone but truck is missing, owner said it has always missed every now and then? Now it’s a no start? I’ve ran a lot of test but not believing my scanner on the ipr? Pulled the ipr screen is fairly dirty, picked up a screen kit, but wondering about testing the IPR? Is it true you can’t bench test it with 12V and hear it click. I e done a lot of crane hydraulic work and you can always hear and fill them click when testing them. Parts on this rig are all ready up to close 2000

Selling mine. Don't have time to mess around with it.

great video tone, im having the same issue on my 05 6.0, all my data looks good but im only getting 460psi, with a no start done the air test with covers off and can't seem to find a leak anywhere, any thoughts? thanks for the videos and the help

Great video was very refreshing to see this, they 2 guys I used to watch sermarastertech AKA Rusty bun & diesel techRon.. sady the are no longer with us hopefully the are in a better place Rip. Keep up the good content.

I hv 06 I don't hear fuel pump running. Also hear weird knock in front of engine while cranking. New to 6.0 diag. Just turning key on hv alot of buzzing noise

you now if the FICM need programing if is replaced on 6.6 duramax gmc 2003 thanks in advance

Will overheating the engine cause any of these issues. My father borrowed my 03 and had it towed back after overheating. Any advice is welcomed

What about the 2004 one's looks like &&& the one's to replace with 🤔💬

I have a 03 6.0 I'm working on and when u drive it full throttle it calls for 3000 psi and all it has is like 730. And the it catches up slowly I was going to change the dummy plugs and stand pipes b4 I do a pump. And it it sits over night it will fire up and then stall. But then will crank and then fire up. But still have low psi. I put a new ipr in it already

Was running with a misfire before i replaced icp now it wont start at all

Can using smoke leak tester, give same results to find the leak, or what?

When I remove my ipr and I hook up 12 volts to it is this a good way to tell if it’s functioning correctly I have a 04 6.0 was having stalling issues then died while driving no start now icp won’t build over 250 ish

About to get one it smokes white will run all day till you shut it off then you gotta wait 1-2 hours before it’ll fire back up

I have a 2006 6.0 f350 with crank no start The problem I came across is when I turn the key on engine off I don't get the injector clatter like it normally does before it starts. Anyone know why that might be?

Nice video well explain that's one of the things I love from this trade you always have something new to learn now I need to find the next victim to diagnose and take a part 😈😈😈 Tell you coworker Arriba el pelavacas 🐄🐄🐄🐄 Chalino Sanchez 🤠🤠🤠👢👢👢 Pelavacas guy who's skins cows

My 2004 6.0 lost all fuel pressure, so I changed the pump, but now I can hear the new pump getting electric but now even after charging both batteries it won't start, it won't even spin the fly wheel. I'm lost!

Coworker at an old place did injectors on a 6.4 and it hydro locked

I would like to get you fix my truck He got the same problem

What causes it to do that

What scanner are you using?

but how much air should you put in the system??

🙂Tone, great video. Is this process the same for the 2003 6.0? Mine was intermittently not accelerating when you come to a stop or making a turn and then try to accelerate. No codes so over a couple of weeks changed the fuel pump, VGT, and EBS sensors. The issue of not accelerating seemed better but it changed to reaching 3,000 before shifting out of 3/4 and some farting out of the turbo. I cleaned the EGR sensor as someone suggested, it wasn't bad. Took it on a test drive the symptoms were about the same. About 3 miles down the road if shut off on me and now won't start. Sounds just like the truck in your video. I don't have a SnapOn computer to do the test but I may can get someone I know to come test it for me. Anything in my comments that you would have any different suggestions before I start running the air test?

I have the same thinks with my 2006 F250 Are u near New York ???

Ilike miusic chalino

Nice vid. How much would this cost?