60 year old tractor looks rough..will it start! 

It’s not a Massey if it doesn’t leak

Linings on brake shoes most likely separated from the steel portion. It wedges itself in there and when you back up it releases.

Id put an inline fuel filter in as well...helps a lot down the road. That piece in your carburetor is your venturi.

Thanks for bringing some great farm content to a Missouri boy who now lives in LALA land. Brings me back to my youth. Thanks! Keep up the machinery content.

I really enjoy seeing old tractors being brought back to life the new tractors these days aren't built as good as the old tractors the Massey Ferguson was the best tractors out there I think

What a neat old tractor! Those clamp style batteries terminals should only be used in a pinch. The cables tend to loosen inside after a while and cause high resistance and possible arching.

A lot of those old sediment bowls had no filter. It would be a good idea to install an inline fuel filter. Pretty inexpensive.

That “carb drain” you were turning is the high speed mixture jet.

Dad had a similar problem with a MF 35. When we got it torn apart we discovered a damaged tooth in the differential ... and three wrenches someone had left in the differential case! I'd start with the brakes first. With any luck it will be a detached lining. It could also be a bolt that has backed out somewhere that catches at some point in the rotation.

Nothing like that moment when old machinery fires up and back to life. Good job!

The old equipment was made to repair and run forever. Give Earl a bath.

Full rebuild on carb, all new fluids, new filters, lube everything, then try to move. You don't want to wear rotating/rubbing surfaces by running them with no grease or oil. That cardbord cover was probably because the top terminals on the battery were shorting on the metal cover with no tie down, as the original 6 v battery had a lower profile. You have lots of work to go just to get a safe reliable tractor. You are 5% done.

If you have an oil bath air filter on that, use that for air filter, those things are awesome and filter very well. They also dont require throw away filters, which is nice. As for the locked up wheel, may be a differential problem, or as simple as a brake problem. A service manual is always helpful. Good luck! It's always worth saving these old iron tractors, so much better built than today's stuff.

Always love seeing old tractor's brought back to life

The air filtering has work great for 50 + years. Don't put a aftermarket filter system on it because it will not be any better then what you have now. As for the loose part in the carb, it is the venturi .

Greetings from sunny Sidmouth Devon England. I’m looking forward to watching Earls new birth. I had a Massey 135 circa 1972. Great tractors.

my neighbor had two of these they kept in a garage one to mow , and one with a bucket and back blade . 1950s early 60s models . glad to see you trying to work with vintage equipment not like some of the utube people from Penn. that get sponser with new equipment .

I shold look up if the lining on the brakeshoes has come apart and makes it bind up, if thats not the problem then i would look on the gear reduction and last the differential, work from the outside and in. I always start with the easyest task first to find the problem.

jack it up, take off the wheel, and check the brakes. but to me the way the wheel turns partially it seems more of a differential issue.

It's amazing how much value old tractors have.

The piece from the carb is a venturi. A venutri creates a depression (a vacumn) to draw the fuel out of the fuel bowl throught a jet. Above the jet in the tube is another jet called an air corrector. Its there to apply standard out side air pressure to the fuel to stop it from becoming a syphon. While you have it apart blow out all the holes in the jets and emulsion tube. I did rear brakes years ago from memory they have band brakes. Its been a long time (a long band with a steel backing that wraps around the outside of a drum. one end is anchored to a backing plate and the other end is attached to the pedal linkage. as you put your foot on the pedal the linkage pulls it tight onto the outside of the drum.). One on each side. They can delaminate off the steel backing band breaking the lining material up and jamming or its locking up on the area of the drum that's been exposed to the weather or a combination of both. It will need inspection any how. While you are at it inspect and lubricate the linkage. Some tractors have a linkage between two brake pedals. make sure thats free too. When you do the oil change remember it has a O ring that goes into the block that has to be oiled so it doesn't come out as you tighten it. And make sure the old has come out before fitting the new one.

Nice work Josh! Love to see those old tractors run again!

My old neighbor had a tractor just like that!! Bailed tons and tons of hay with it. It was a great way to spend summers grownin up!!

Cool old new tractor nice to watch you getting it done.

What you wanted to know is the little round ring is the venturini. All the old Zeniths and Marvels have them. I rebuild these old carbs as a hobby. You can see from my avatar, I have a MF 35, built in 1961,in Detroit. So was yours.

I dont know why, but those 65s are in demand around here.... the 85s you cant give away. I love how Massey made their hoods pop up for easy access to engine etc. Put some seafoam in that tank...helps a lot. I took a lot of heat not running ethanol fuel (being a crop farmer), but its a carb destroyer. Nice tractor..very much worth owning.

Love these old tractor videos. Nice job!

Love how you jump in and when you face a problem you are not afraid to ask for help. Hopefully one of the RU-vid "neighbors" has an answer for the wheel lock up. As I tell those starting out....don't reinvent the wheel; ask if somebody else has faced a particular situation.

Your love for old machines sure shines threw

I’ve found a new friend! Thanks Josh!!

Congratulations on getting it started

Good video Josh good for you getting it running

One thing you want to check when trying to start a gas powered or diesel powered tractor is to check for wires which may be eaten into by field mice since it has been sitting up for three years in the field. The carburetor might need to be rebuilt since the tractor has been sitting up for so long also. It is good that you got it to start and run and now you need to work on that wheel which locks up and once you get that taken care of you can work on some of the other areas which is in need of repair like the exhaust system.

I liked when you use the right tools for the right jobis the fitting wrenches that you used you might want to explain to some of your viewers that's never seen them or first-time yours about the fitting wrenchesand how great they are when it comes to fittings on your carburetor gas lines or things like

Oh one more thing A good shop manual is a must I have the I&T MF-201 for mine.

15:06 is a Venturi. They're easily broken in some carbs and are made out of a cheap pot-metal. Glad to see this content!

Brake lining separates from the steel backing, whip the wheel and drum off and change the shoes

Love those old tractors. If it were mine, I’d be looking to restore her.

Here is a tip for you and others: When you purchase a new battery or the old one that is still working, mix some two part epoxy and spread a light coat around the terminals to make a seal between the plastic battery body and the led terminal. It will NEVER corrode again. This prevents the evaporation of the electrolyte which causes acid corrosion. I learned this trick from a girl that worked for a battery company. One of the tricks they don't tell you. Try it on all batteries you have.

I have a 1951 Massey that I restored. The carb is the first and most problematic issue. They gunk up very easily and it has to be a first class clean up to get it to where the tractor will idle correctly and run properly. Don’t figure on doing a half baked job and expect good results. My parts supplier said that they send the carbs out to get them clean enough to run on sales of rebuilt carburetors.

Congrats man, nothing like seeing Earl start up for the 1st time!

Check the diff lock mechanism is working and not seized, not sold on a seized brake as wheel turns to far.before locking up. If diff lock is fine then it's a strip down job which is a heavy job but fairly simple to find what has broken or jammed up. All brake parts should be completely free of dust and grease as it acts as a magnet for brake dust. Good luck. Gary..... England 🇬🇧

Josh I have been following you so I decided to subscribe. you bring back some of my passed and I enjoy your videos. Thanks

That tee handle fitting is the high speed jet adjustment, there is a pipe plug on the bottom

Fun stuff! I restored a 1952 Ford 8N tractor two years ago that I bought from my dad for $1000. It had sat in his barn for probably 10 years not running, but now I have her also purring like a kitten and use it all winter to clear my driveway with a back blade. My engine was fine, but I replaced the wire harness, exhaust manifold, oil bath air cleaner mesh, all the fluids, glass sediment bowl, etc, and repainted her. Looks and runs like new. Steiner Tractor Parts is one of my go-to websites for classic tractor parts.

Good deal. I knew you’d get it running. Sounds good. Cool video 👍👍👍❤️

That cherry bomb muffler is good for at least 30 extra HP !! I remember those back in the day. They were a muffler loosely in the sense of the term "muffler". Generally you would install them just to get it through inspection, then at night you would tromp on the gas and watch all the fiberglass shoot sparks out the back!! Another competitor was "Thrush" and Walker "Continentals". As with fuel, the issue with ethanol, is people leave it in the tank and carb when they shut down for long extended periods. What they "should" be doing, is 2 things. 1) Proper shutdown. Shut off the gas and let the engine die. 2) Use an additive. A lot of folks will probably lambaste me for this, but I can say using an additive in things like generators and such will ensure proper starting the next time you use it. If you ever watch Mustie1 videos, this guy is the proverbial"King" of carburetor repair! At the onset of a carb issue, usually due to lack of use using ethonal, he yanks the carb off pulls the needles and puts them all in a parts cleaner. He doesn't mess around with carb cleaners and such.

I would tear the top off the transmission and look into that first before too much time on motor. If you find a damaged bull gear or something, I'd tear it apart if your going to fix that then worry on the engine. I think it looks cool in it's original condition.

Love your positivity!

Pressure wash the tractor, clear out the grime an might help out with working on it

That metal cylinder "floating" around in the carb is called the venturi. I've got the same carb on my Ford 4030 tractor/backhoe

The thing you thought was a bowl drain was actually a mixture control screw. It needs to be about 1 and a half turns out for it to start.

Not leaking just marking its territory check the final drive on the outer axle there's a planetary set up in there very rare but something that old you gotta check everything

You can always send earl to South Carolina to my house lol I can’t wait for you to get him back together

That's a cool old tractor Josh, glad you got the old girl running and she purrs like a kitten, awesome! My guess on the back wheel locking up would be the brakes are probably rusted and the brake material rotted off and is stuck to the drum.

Love Earl!! The best tractors ever made. Out pull anything else out there.

that needle on the bottom is for adjusting the fuel mixture. Most modern fuels are crap in old engines, ethanol is just worse!!

Nice old tractor. We had one 49 Ford 8N sitting for 15 years not running and we decided to get it running and sold it.

That thing at 15:10 I believe is called the venturi, its what helps with the gas becoming a vapor before it reaches the combustion changer, something to do with the narrowing of the one end compared to the other.

Looks like that rear wheel may be binding up on some broken gear teeth somewhere. Not 100% with that type of rear end though. Either way it looks like you’ll be pulling the wheel and getting inside of it.

Man! I was already smiling just watching the familiar frustration, but when Earl coughed, spit and caught his breath, whatever you yelled took the words out of my mouth! That old tractor is a real trophy, though I do vote in favor of taking the pressure washer to it before you turn another wench on it--you DO know it is really worth the water now. And my envy deepen; dang, I wish I had a lucky charm like Mrs. CR alright, but where's MY fine ol' tractor?! Wooo!

I enjoyed this as much as you did. A lot of fun.

You got a good old tractor for a good price. When you get it that cheap, you all already know it needs some work. But you can do it. Just that it takes time, patients, and a little money to get it working and looking much better than when you bought it.

Because the wheel turned and locked turned and locked in reverse about the same amount of turn probably has metal in a gear between a tooth. We had a new 65 massy. Great tractor. Burns a lot of gas..

You can put the gas in a white coffee cup and see the bubbles of water in it very easy, it might be a good ideal to keep a white coffee cup in the garage for that!

By the looks of the wheel locking up its seems like a break shoe floating around possibley or some crap in there binding up as igoes so far but I'm willing to bet it's a bad break shoe or somthing like spring or just somthing simple I hope but till the next vid godbless bud

That tractor look all right looks like it's had an alright life remember it's a 60 + year old tractor

I believe it is the brakes. It probably has drum brakes on the axle and what I’m guessing is when he was using it the brakes where stuck on and now the pad is welded it’s self to the drum witch is a pretty easy fix

That is the main jet on the carb not a drain. To set run it all the way in then back it out a turn and a half, as a starting point. If its bogging down under load open it a little bit at a time to match the load. That's how I set my 1958 model. You also need to choke it every time you start it if it is set to spec. It takes 5 quarts without filter change 6 with SAE 30 oil, you can use the same oil in oil bath air cleaner . Use any good grade trans hydraulic I had the same problem when i got mine with wheel locking Topped off the trans hydraulic and that took care of it. He is not leaking oil he is marking his territory ; )

Check brakes first. Then the next step is a gear locking up in the rear end. Get a book and go from there. best of luck. Bill

Want a rare one? I have got a 1961 Massey Ferguson 85 gas. Only made from 60 to 62 if I remember right. My dad used it as the main farm tractor from the day he bought it. Still runs like a champ and pulls hard.

It has a oil bath air filter, one side of the grill opens, may need to take off that nasty grill guard, and their is a oil bath air filter in there, take the bottom off, drain the old oil out and but in fresh oil also take out the insert in the bottom and clean the dirt that's in there. The fuel bowl has a fine mesh screen above the glass, that's your filter, but like someone else said put a inline filter in the fuel line. they are a good tractor, mowed, raked and baled a lot of hay with one.

I'd begin with the easiest which would be removing the rear tire/rim and checking the brakes. If you find the brakes to be good, then go deeper. You would think if the differential was bad then both rear wheels would be affected.

Josh you are right . I have cranked my Kubota tractor over two years and the one time I did not checked my brakes and it was in gear. Well the story is what can happen will happen. I spent a week in the hostpital after it knocked me down and ran over my foot. But it could be worse. Thanks for saying that and warning others

Install an In-Line filter. Learn when or when not to use a choke. Open the throttle 1/4 when starting unless flooded. Loose the funky little head lights (Please). Won't run worth a s@*t with out that round Venturi in the Carb (Yeah. I learned that one myself). Check for loose brake shoe lining in right rear hub (you might be surprised). And by an owners manual. Keep up the great work!!! Love the video's!!!

Josh, i know the brake systems on those old masseys were kinda screwey once they got some age and wear on them. they were activated by some sort of ramp disc and steel roller ball design so that when you stepped on the petal it would tighten things and apply the brakes. we had an old 165 that was showing problems with these parts and would lock the brakes on that wheel until you were able to brake the wheel free, . I realize this is not the exact problem you are experiencing however if something in the brakes on yours has been damaged or come apart, it is possible for them to apply like you are experiencing once the wheel has rotated enough distance in either direction.

Hi..... Thank you 🎥👍👍👍

Josh Lucas makes an ethanol treatment that’s very very good I use it in all my gas powered vehicles tractor and power equipment it gave me better mileage and better running engines

Good job

The part you were asking about in the carberator is called a venture, I'm spelling it wrong but thats what its called!

The way to know if your float is working is you try blowing threw where the gas line goes onto then flip the carb over and try blowing threw it if it won’t let you blow threw it should be good

In my area, there is no non-ethanol option. We are under an EPA order. However, my 1951 Allis Chalmers runs just fine. I use an ethanol additive and keep the fuel fresh. Several years of no problems.

I think that Mike has a good idea, also...I seem to remember that there is a way to lock the real end (much like a 4 wheel drive unit).. The linkage for this might be bent a bit.

Great job Josh 👍

My grandpa worked at Continential in Muskegon during the time this tractor was built. Mighta had a hand in it. Same plant that tanks were built. I remember watching them run on the the test track that ran around the building.

That was my 8 year son who loves your videos

My MF 65 Continental is a grate tractor & parts are available. Even found a factory frame mount 14' backhoe. Easy to put on a front pump. 90w GL-1 for the rear end is hard to find in 5 gallon palls, TSC use to carry it in 5 gallon pales.

We have two MF 50 s As far as starting, both require using the choke. A quick pull and then push back in of the choke while you are pushing button to start. One tractor requires a little throttle, while the other tractor needs no throttle. In my opinion, you need to start diagnosing wheel lock issue by pulling wheel and hub off. Brake shoes can cause issues, although I don't recall ours ever having quite the same issue.

i do hav massey sitting for a 4 yrs ...i am inspired

Hey Josh... Kaylee here! It was nice to meet you yesterday after your talk at the HOA! Just wanted to drop in and say hi and thanks for all the great content!

My dad lost his keys to his Massey Ferguson. Used a wire staple as a key. Worked well. Your 65 probably has a brake shoe that's off or eliminated lining. Tire rotates 180° then catches the loose shoe.

sounds like the break pad has come off the break shoe

I have a 73-75 MF135. It has the taller tires and it has no brakes. I'm the only one who uses it and I don't let anyone else use it. It's what you get used to. We used to have 3 135's but let 2 of the others go.

My bet is a brake shoe got stuck and separated and it's hitting at that spot.

I love the Massey Ferguson 65

Agree with other comments, inline fuel filter and add a fuel shut off valve. Close the valve when you shut down and let the fuel run out of the carb. Keeps the carb from getting all gummy.

I love that tractor

Agree with Mike duhn, except that I suspect that only one has parted from its shoe and has rusted onto the drum. Allows about a quarter turn either way before it clashes with the other shoe.

The carb part you asked about is a venturi barrell

Looks like something in the Differential, I think if it were a Brake Problem it wouldn’t Lock up going backwards..