Your vid helped me a lot on my 99 f450. When pulling the 15/16 bolt out..a Dewalt stubby 1/2 impact gun cracked it loose in 1 second! No other tools required..just an fyi. New Lpop solved my long cranking starts after sitting for a day or 2.
Leave come on. Just messed up threads in crank shat journal… put cone on and balance came off. Trick I use to stop crank from turning is a ratchet strap hook to frame slide strap thru belt pulley
Ive been chasing a problem with my truck for a few years. Only when it is below freezing it cranks a long time to start and when I start to drive it has very low power and shutters and fluctuates a bit until it warms up just a little, it doesn't have to warm up fully. Even if I let it idle for a while and warm up it still will do this until I drive half a mile or so and then it starts to smooth out. If I try to mash the accelerator all the way to the floor, sometimes it will slow down gradually all the way to the point where it will die and then it's hard to start. But again it has to be below freezing for this to happen at all. 33° and it never happens. Fires right up. 18° It'll start but you're going to have to crank a while 310k on the clock most of it has been in my care So I know that the oil pump has never been changed. It has recently had new glow plugs and new injectors doesn't seem to have affected this issue at all.
Quick question I have a 2000 f350 with 106000 miles it has been taking quite a while on intial starup. After it warms up and I shut it off if I restarted immediately it starts right up if I wait for any period of time such as a few minutes it takes longer to start again again. Ipr seems to spike to 50 percent when cold.
This may sound dumb, but make sure your oil level is correct, then try parking with the front of the truck down hill and see if your symptoms continue. You can back the truck up on ramps of you live in a flat area or don't want to put a lot of stress on the parking pawl (I'd recommend this). If that fixes it, your pickup tube is possibly cracked, which is not super common, but common enough that it's a known issue. Report back with your findings 👍
Hard start and poor performance, the melling m208 is an upgrade from the factory one and well worth it. Worth it to do on any 7.3 regardless of millage due to the increased volume of the melling
On a bone stock engine you'd probably never notice anything except the oil pressure rising faster after start up. On a heavily modified engine, it will help supply the high pressure oil pump with the oil it needs to provide adequate oil to the injectors to fire and empty properly. Considering the relatively low cost of this, if for whatever reason you need to replace the factory oil pump, even on a stock engine you might as well get this for added piece of mind and a base for any future modifications. With that said, if your engine is running fine with good oil pressure and it's relatively stock, I wouldn't bother unless you're planning on doing some power adders. Otherwise it's not really useful.
The engine I'm dealing with runs good when cool.. when motor gets up to operating temperature.. I have a miss in one of the holes.... The idle starts to fluctuate... refurbished injectors. New wiring harness... noticed the miss about a couple weeks after installing the new injectors.. went from breaking the tires loose on pavement to a boat anchor..
@@user-of4wm3qc1f That is strange. Unfortunately that is pretty much impossible for me to diagnose over a youtube comment thread 🤣 Have you checked the simple things like ICP vs duty cycle? Fuel pressure?
Definitely not a dumb question. There are so many possible leaks. So my situation is I'm redoing the front steering components, so I can take it to a car wash and wash the engine bay and degreSe so I cN see better. If I was it in my driveway, the HOA will lose their minds. It was leaking from the lpop seal originally, I didn't put rtv in keyway 1st time. 2nd time I did it, I added a healthy dose of jb weld rtv. I also changed Oring on cps. This time it almost looked like it was running down the rad hose from higher up and dripping off. So now I'm looking at oul cooler seals, and oil rail plugs.
wow I can see @ 12:36 where you damaged the threads on the crankshaft, wouldn't have been better to to use a balancer installation tool? I hope thats not a customer's vehicle
What you see there is actually fixed threads that were damaged from previous removal. We had to run a tap down them to get the bolt to go back in. Long story, but the history of that engine isn't exactly stellar. I'm amazed that it still runs.
