77 F250 Lean Drop Method Carburetor Idle Mixture Adjustment. No Tach! No Vac! 

Like and comment, just like we do :)

the interweb is fine, it's greedy google (who own utoob) that sucks moose balls.

@@sysfixr No it's because the hackers can't let it be .

@@sysfixr If it was about the money youtube would show more ads on elderly iron .

@@b0b099 That's the obvious reason.

My Sunday best looks just like my "going to do an oil change" clothes.

I’ve got a 73 f100 and this makes all the difference

Just happens to be a Ford. They're all the same!

East TN is a nice place to be! I have a couple Ford resurrections playlists on the main channel page!

Glad to be of help!

Thanks 'cane!

Thanks Mike!

First define "restoration" for yourself. Full on restoration is going to cost you around $30,000 and up, and then you'll be afraid to drive it anywhere! If you want to keep driving it and enjoy it while "restoring" it, start with the brakes, steering and wheel and axle bearings. When you buy restoration parts ahead of time, open the boxes and inspect the parts right away for quality and fit, especially if you don't plane to install them a long time down the road. Only you can decide which part is the most important to you. Perhaps you would like the interior to look nice while you drive it. If the transmission decides to fail on you, then you know what you have to do next, as it already made the decision for you! As far as common issues for that particular truck, the exhaust manifolds crack and/or someone has broken the exhaust bolts off in the head. The drivers window regulator goes bad, the windshield usually cracks, starting at the right side defroster vent. Power steering pumps generally get noisy and weak, and the EGR plate under the carburetor erodes and creates a vacuum leak. Wiper switches are generally worn out by now too. Steering components are likely loose and unless you found a pristine truck, the horn pad is missing from the badly cracked steering wheel, both of which are quite spendy indeed. Again, the first thing to determine is how far you want to go with your restoration. If your hard components are in good condition and you want to start cosmetics, do that. If you have any steering or brake issues, they are at the top of the priority list. Don't do paint until your mechanicals are completed. Even then, you can repaint by taping off all the chrome, or you can remove all the chrome. Here again, we have to find what your definition of "restoration" is. You can ask me anything at any time! Jeff

@ElderlyIron Thank you so very much for your advice. That's exactly what I'm doing. My plan is to have her fully restored to her original, with some minor or major changes in about 10 years. I'm getting parts replaced one at a time just to get her drivable again. After sitting in a field for over 20 years, I didn't think she would turn over. However, she did!!!! I couldn't believe it! My biggest hurdle right now is the floor pans. They are rust through, I plan on buying new ones to lay over the old ones and weld in......what ate your thoughts, is that a good plan?? Thank you again, sir, for all of your help and support. Your friend, Melissa K.

Laying new on old is never a good idea. Your new pans will likely be close, but not an exact fit. Poking through rust reveals more rust. Poke and reveal before you line up your ducks. Get a couple cans of Amsoil MP. (WD40 is useless) I've tried a lot over the years. The MP works great! Spray every nut, bolt and screw you can find. Do it all now. Don't wait until you're ready for that next step. Learn how to use a torch for heating nuts, bolts and screws, and for cutting. Get one of those old 2 gallon pressurized water fire extinguishers. always, always ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand and at the ready. Do NOT rely on dry chem extinguishers. I may be getting locked out of my account soon. Long story. Technical issue that I can't get past India in order to repair the problem. Use my email, thestaff at elderlyiron, and don't forget the dot com.

Idle stop solenoid. www.ebay.com/itm/142868074795?epid=10017919336&hash=item214399d12b:g:VsQAAOSwnspbSqAb www.ebay.com/itm/392208606901?hash=item5b517466b5:i:392208606901

Little short on info. The anti-knock you mention is an anti-dieseling solenoid, so it doesn't enter the equation in the question you're asking. As to backfiring, is it ONLY at idle? Does it matter if it's cold or hot? Does it come through the carburetor, or only the exhaust? Is it hitting on all 8? Does it pop and bang on deceleration? IF it's an exhaust only backfiring, chances are you're running an over-rich mixture, or you have an ignition misfire. If you have a misfire, it sends the fresh air/fuel charge into the exhaust stream where it gets lit by the hot exhaust gasses. If you're running over-rich, it does the same thing, only to a lesser degree. Lastly, check the distributor shaft for play in the shaft both vertically and laterally, and see if you can tell if there is any slack to be taken up in the drive and driven gear. Put a timing light to it. If it bounces all over, then it's time to dig deeper. (While you have the cap off, hand roll the engine forward and then backward and check to see if the timing chain has a lot of slack in it. If it does, you'll roll the engine and the distributor won't move when you change directions) At low RPM, loose timing components can go all over the road (so to speak). At higher RPM they tend to be under tension and only on one end of the slack.

@@ElderlyIron You gave me a lot of helpful info. I thank you for that. Seems to be running on all 8 cylinders. Leaned out the carb. It was running rich. Pops at idle and revving it up just through the exhaust. Timing light held steady but I’ll look into timing chain and distributer.