80 Series Land Cruiser 1FZ-FE Head Gasket Part One 

I'm a visual learner as well. I've learned a ton in other subjects watching RU-vid videos. I figured I give back and make videos on what I know how to do. Glad they're helpful.

It's really not bad to do in the truck. I do them in the truck most of the time

@OTRAMM Thanks, man. What about the rear main seal? My truck has fairly low miles but sat for over 10 years, and all the seals and gaskets are pretty much in need of replacing. Starts drives and runs. Does not overheat . Has a new thermostat and water pump. But my I noticed that when you start it. It smokes a bit. Then goes away. So I took the exhaust manifold off and noticed the exhaust valves leaking oil. Not a lot, but since I'm replacing most of the seals and gaskets, I thought, why not replace all of them and have it last another couple of thousand miles. I already got the gasket kit from toyota.

I'm waiting on this one to come back from the machine shop still. Once it's back I've got to work reassembly in to the shops schedule, then film and edit. I'd guess a week or two until the second half is up.

All of our 100 series we're 4.7 v8. Luckily they haven't had head gasket issues.

@@OTRAMM the 100 series I have is a strait 6 cylinders. That's why the 80 series looks similar

The last one I sent to the machine shop was around 180. That was clean, pressure test, vacuum test valve sealing, and mill the head surface flat.

We just get the "valve grind" gasket set from Toyota.

We didn't get the 105 here. We got the V8 in our 100. I've only ever had to pull the engine out once. It'd be a really hard video to film if I ever had another one come through.

The very front cam retainer is already removed before counting back so it looks like it's one off. It looks odd when counting which is why I always double check by looking to see which lobes are evenly spaced pressing down. The factory manual has a pretty good picture but it can still be confusing the first time you look at it.

I pull the valves to change the seals. It's in a separate video.

That's how the manual says to do it. I've always had that concern too so I'm always real light in the wrench in case there's a bind.

You can on an 80. It's not fun but possible. It's probably easier to just pull the upper manifold.

We don't adjust the TPS all that often, but I'll see what I can do.

I've seen it cause strange vibrations if the cams are out of time from one another. Without seeing and hearing it though that's just a guess.

We didn't get that engine here. We only got gas ones.

I haven't done an engine removal video, sorry.

If it got hot enough to melt the sensors I'd at least put a precision straightedge across the block deck surface and make sure it's still flat. If you've got the engine out I'd consider pulling the oil pans and plastigauging the crank bearings. You'll have to be careful of the timing chain though since the cam sprocket isn't holding it meshed the the crank sprocket with the head off. Plastigauging is a lot of extra work though if you aren't committed to doing a rebuild if you find out of spec clearances.

@@OTRAMM Thanks for the info. the deck is flat and i'm probably going to go through the engine once I figure it out:)

I wouldn't change them unless you're also doing the head gasket. Even if you swapped them one at a time you'd still risk disturbing the gasket. There's nothing wrong with the factory bolts, they work fine unless you're adding a lot of boost.

We didn't get the 1hdt here, so no videos on them. Sorry

I don't know. We never got the Diesels so I have no experience with them. I always leave that stuff up to the machinist we use anyway.

Okay thanks for the rply . 🙏🏻

Most everything came from the factory Toyota head gasket set. We use Toyota gaskets, seals, filters, and fluids 99 percent of the time.

I've never actually done any porting 😁. We've got a local machinist that we send the heads out to. He does awesome work on them.

I think the parts catalog calls it a gas filter.

I've got a video on checking valve clearance. You'd measure all the clearances. Pull the out of spec shims and calculate which goes where. It's not fun.

We've never had to change just the lower intake gasket. All the steps are in the head gasket videos. Just watch up until the lower intake comes off and then pick back up as it goes on.

I don't. We just use new short blocks from Toyota.

I don't recall on this one. We usually see them around 200-250k. Although we've seen several 300k plus trucks on the original gasket.

Sorry I just found the rest of the videos on reassembly!

But still, do you have one or know if there is one of taking the motor and tranny out of it?

I don't. We've never gotten around to filming the removal.

Ok new question for you. I brought the head to the machine shop and he told me to bring him both cams and 3 caps for each and all 24 valve lifters and shims. You and the Great book say to label them and keep in order to put back in the proper order. He said that doesn't matter what order if he's going to take the whole head apart and clean, scrape and put back together. Is that right? Or should I bring the book and show him? Afraid that will offend him though.

@@cameron11 the valve shims and buckets have to stay in order or they'll have to be reshimmed. The cam caps are labeled from the factory.

No idea how lpg or it being a 105 affects things. I can have a head off in 3ish hours in an 80 series. I've done dozens of them though.

@@OTRAMM ok cool . Maybe I can get it done in a day. Lol. Thanks for the quick reply.

I'd get a second. I doubt one will do all of that.

@@OTRAMM perfect, thanks, also on the oil pump rotor I got a new one what's up with the triangles? There is zero mention of oil pump alignment in the FSM or on mud. I made a video I can give you a link if you want to see it but the head gasket was on this time no milkshake or coolant and oil I ended up finding it on number one cylinder leak down I had air in the upper radiator hose cooling system

@@BillyGoatsAdventures I've never pulled the guts out of the oil pump. We just buy the complete timing covers from Aisin.

@@OTRAMM that's the route I almost went then I decided to be stubborn and clean my original timing cover. I want to build a brand new one FZ over the next couple years I'll do a new timing cover then. Thanks again

There has to be one.youmay need to spin more not all of the holes are threaded. You need the bolt, the two halves are spring loaded.

OTRAMM okay no worries mate I spin it and see how I go if I have any dramas I’ll let you know cheers 👌😌

It's a Toyota part so I just call Toyota for them.

Mine is jammed in there pretty good.

I want to say it's between 2500-3k. I'd have to look it up when I get back in town.

The gaskets in the oil cooler leaking could potentially have the same symptoms. I've heard of them leaking but I've never seen it in person. A cracked head or block could do that also. I'd lean towards the oil cooler since it makes the most sense. The oil is under higher pressure than the coolant so it would leak in to the cooling system.

Love your repair video very detailed useful info. I agree with you about oil cooler having higher pressure then cooling system at least at higher rpms. To test the cooler I plugged 2 ports with my thumbs and had a helper apply air pressure to the remaining port while cooler was submerged in water and did not see any air bubbles. So the mounting gaskets could be possible. I had proceeded to the removal of head gasket repair prior to watching your video, I am in the process of removing intake manifold and I am pretty certain I have removed all the bolts I could get to and it don't want to budge. that's when I decided to look on you tube and seen your video. The amount of time I have wasted trying to do this job with engine in the vehicle, well lets just say, after watching your video, I am going to remove engine. Just the time I spent watching your video I could have removed engine and had head removed. Thank you for your prompt reply to my question. Keep up the good work.

We usually do them in the truck. This one was out because we were also doing a rear main seal.

removed head with engine in vehicle ,used a cherry picker to lift head straight up all went well, until trying to pull cherry picker away the head struck timing chain guide and broke it. any of your videos to do timing chain guide replacement?

@@mattreinhardt4278 I don't have a video on timing chain. I've only had to do it once. I've got one coming in, in about a month so I'll film one then.

Yes, I normally do them in the truck. This was out for more work so I used the opportunity to film with a good view of everything.

I don't think they're as common as the internet makes them seam. We do them pretty regularly though, at least a few a year. Of the 80's that come through the shop, the ones that have had head gasket failures are a pretty low percentage.

@@OTRAMM It seems to be mostly EGR equip countries. Aus never got egr equip and they don't tend do head gasket like american's panic over

Nope, you didn't miss it. I totally spaced on explaining it. I send all the heads we pull to the machine shop. They pressure test them for cooling passage leaks, vacuum test the valve sealing, measure for warp and them machine a nice smooth warp free surface back on. They usually only skim a couple thousandths of an inch off.

@@OTRAMM Did they put new valve stem seals in? Did they do a valve job? Do you check the valve clearances or did you have to change out any shims? Great video. Thank you. It's helping a ton.

@@bob82pigdog I did stem seals on it when it came back from the machinist. The machine shop vacuum tests valve sealing. I've never had them recommend a valve job so I've never had them do one. I check all the clearances when going back together. Without doing a valve job it's rare to need to change shims. I usually see it when someone's been in there before and gotten the shims out of order.

@@OTRAMM Awesome. Thank you. I'm feeling good about not having to pay for a valve job or do the shims now! My compression numbers are good, except for one cylinder of course.

@@bob82pigdog I'd still check all the valve clearances to be sure. Nothing worse than a misfire after you put it all back together.

We pulled the engine since we were also doing the rear main seal. It was easier to pull the drive train as a whole and do all the seals out of the truck. Since we were going to have to pull the trans anyway it was just as easy to pull everything. The head gasket is much easier to do on a stand. For most head gasket jobs we do them in the truck though.

I usually have them do the valve stem seals too since they're a pain. They also pressure test for cooling leaks and vacuum test valve sealing.

@@OTRAMM gotcha. Do you typically do any valve lapping even if they are in spec, or is it just something you do on a case by case basis?

@@grahamsproductionz we usually leave them alone.

Magnet

@@OTRAMM thanks.

We usually do it in the truck. This one was also getting a rear main seal so it made sense to pull it and do everything out of the truck.

If all goes normal it's right around 3k

@@OTRAMM Thanks, love your channel btw m8!

There's no way of knowing without doing diagnostics. You'd need to pull codes as a starting point.

@@OTRAMM thank you

Means a diagnostic diagnosis must be made. What do you think if you turned the spark plugs?

@@OTRAMM Means a diagnostic diagnosis must be made. What do you think if you turned the spark plugs?

It's been a while but I want to say around 250k.

@@OTRAMM Thank you sir. Love your videos. Im about to pick up a 96 LX450 with 250K miles and will be doing HG as PM. Im nervous to do the job but as a mechanic told me, "You cant take the mechanic on the trail!". I have a GX470 at the moment but the 80 series wont let me go.

@@OTRAMM My FJ80 had been sitting for 7 months, had tranny solenoid issue. Now that it back together it appears that the head gasket has let go. milky stuff in valve cover and gurgling in the coolant expansion tank,, was going to have a local shop do the work..have enough other project to get done. The shop said not a good idea with 240K said that head gasket replacement will put too much pressure on the lower end and will probably lose the bearing within a year. Does that sound legit or bs? BTW great video on the tear down

We've done them at close to 300k without issue. The local shops reasoning makes no sense.

We usually leave them in but it is really nice to do with the engine out.

I just took mine off today, and snapped 3-4 of them. What did you end up doing?

Dave S. I just plugged them back in and hoped they didn’t come out. Over 5000kms so far and haven’t had any issues. If I had the time and coin I’d have bought new connectors but they were hard to find and expensive last time I checked.

Nope, gasoline.

I know, right? Those always snap!!

It had a blown head gasket, and warped head.

The buckets have to come out at some point. Why does it matter when. It's really difficult to get clear views in the truck. I took advantage of having an engine out to get clear video. Why don't you show how to remove the head while still in the car?