Couple problems with your set up. The exaust piping on the outside would be graded downwards to avoid condensate build up and as well for the muffler when you put it on, you should have the drip opening on the bottom and not flat.
compared to the original furnace, do you feel this unit blows enough cfm through the ducts i have 4 ducts in my 30 ft 5th wheel. i am guessing my longest run is 12 ft to the bedroom my worry is i wont get enough air to my bedroom
Oh absolutely. The fan on high pushing 170cfm, and I find that more than enough for my RV, I only have 3 ducts, with the furthest run being about 9 feet, but for about $60(cad) on amazon you can also purchase a 200cfm inline 3 inch duct blower, they are 12 volt and thermal actuated, when they sense an increase in temperature the fan automatically kicks on. You could add that inline to the duct going into the bedroom to help boost the aire flow thru that vent.
Thank you for sharing, I am curious about fuel consumption what would you say is typical for you for (x) temperature? Also type of fuel red diesel green diesel or kerosene? Or if say i used green diesel with it cut with kerosene which is what I use to keep tractors from gelling. Thank you
At maximum output it consumes about 0.4L of diesel per hour, when the when the injector goes to low, it consumes about 0.10L 0.15L per hour, I can use it for 96 hours on a 4L tank, when outside Temps are +10°c and keep the camper at +20°c and still have a little fuel left. (Not sure if that helps you too much) as for fuel types, its recommended not to use kerosene for "warranty" reasons, but I've ran that thru a few tanks no problem. Red diesel(farm diesel) and road diesel does just fine, green diesel, if by that you mean bio diesel, I tried with a litter of pump bio diesel and it didn't seem to produce as much heat and the exhaust actually produced more soot than anything else.
@@AaronsAutomotive yeah that does help thank you. My wife and I have. 26ft camp trailer even with new 27 series deep cycle batteries with high amp hours the forced air propane burning furnace seems to drain them quickly. I like how you have your setup gives me some good ideas for ours. Thank you.
I've got zero issues with exhaust entering the camper, little bit of muffler cement around the exhaust pipe before clamping it in Place really helps seal that off completely and the exhaust pipe runs about 12 feet to the very back of the camper 😃 as the combustion is separate from the heat (inside the combustion chamber) and a fan blows the air over the metal housing for the heat, its completely smell free, only time i noticed a smell was when I had the bathroom window open as its only a couple feet away from the muffler.
There was not one provided with this specific unit, most do come with heat thou, I ended up making my own out of plate steel and a small piece of pipe to feed the exhaust hose thru.
Mine the way I refuel is with a gas can and a outboard boat motor primer bulb. The primer bulb has a one way check valve in it, so place it In my fuel can, and the other end into the heater tank and keep squeezing till its full, take me about 3-5 minutes to refuel the 1 gallon tank, but its mess and spill free 😀 and for me, to end up getting 5 days of run time on 1 tank of fuel, it's not a bad method to refuel.
Nice ! I also have a camper that I will be putting one in, curious does it have a thermostat that turns on and off automatically? Also how did you wire up the unit ? Thanks for the video
Jaimie, the heater doesn't does have a thermostat l, but does not shut down when it reaches temperature, rather simply put, The way these diesel heaters work is by a fuel injector and pump, as the heater is requiring to reach the set temp the fuel pump if flowing at full speed, as it reaches the set temp the fuel slows down, and the fan speed slows down to maintain the desired setting, as the inside Temps fall a couple degrees below the setting the fuel pump and fan increase in speed again causing a hotter burn in the chamber to come back up to Temps. Can kind of be thought like a car going down the road, your cruising along at 55mph with cruise control set, the cars computer open the throttle to pick up speed going up a hill, and close the throttle going down a hill to try to maintain your set speed, but doesn't shut the engine off and restart to keep the speed. Hope that helps 😃
@@AaronsAutomotive makes perfect sense, Great description! I had to do the °C to °F math lol. Looks like it would be perfect for what I want to do. My fridge took a shit, and I really want to eliminate all propane use, except for my grill and convert everything else to electric since we are always going to be hooked up to electricity.
That's my same plan here, found an all electric fridge that's going to fit in my rv fridge cubby nicely, and am going to remove the propane stove/oven, thats going to be replaced with a 2 burner 120v induction cook top, and a breville 3 in 1 microwave, (microwave, toaster over and air fryer all in 1) my water heater has already been converted to electric, so the only thing that uses propane currently is the stove top 😕 no sense im keeping that, I might even replace the old 30 amp hookup with a 50 amp set up as I do tend to use a fair but of electricity when camping 🤣 ill even use an electric space heater when the diesel isn't necessary.
No, actually its still the old Atwood gas water heater, but I ordered a product called hybrid heat from camco, all it does is replace the drain plug/anode rod with an electric heating element. I've got an install and demo video of that on my channel. (Heres the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Le9qPIvVHhM.html ) and its been wonderful, hot water in about 30 minutes, its enough for a 5 minute shower with my 6 gallon tank, when the tank finally rusts out ill be replacing it with an on demand water heater thou but for $80 it cost me, the hybrid heat was worth it, nice thing is it can be use along side of the propane (if yours still works) for a faster heat up time, using the propane and electric rod ill get a tank of water hot in about 10 minutes.
Could you tell me how you got the monitor to display the temperature settings? I have the exact same heater and so far mine only displays the ambient temperature. When I try to adjust the heat it only gives me hertz options. Also, I haven't been able to pair my remote to the monitor yet. It just says "please wait".
Hi Gypsy Jenna, I would love to help 😀 every one of these chinese heaters are a little different in the control units and settings are changed differently based on the color of the controller unit. What color is the display screens plastic? Grey, blue, black or red?
Most of the controllers you push the setting (gear icon) and the up arrow at the same time, that should change to Celsius from the hertz To pair the remote, 1 turn on the remote 2 hold the power and ok on remote until "for pairing" is displayed in yellow on the bottom of the remote screen 3 hold down the down arrow on the heaters control unit until HFA is displayed After that the remote should display standby when powered up :)
@@AaronsAutomotive o my goodness, thank you so much. I will try this tonight when I get home. I have the grey controller just like yours. Not many resources on RU-vid for that particular controller so I'm glad to have found your video! I was getting frustrated thinking I had a dud or something, haha. I wrote the manufacturer and everything lol
From what I recall, on the gold screen, with the heater off, you need to press and hold the up arrow and the OK button at the same time and hold until HFA is displayed. Than on your red remote you need to hold the power and OK button together until "for pairing" in yellow on the bottom pops up, after that, it should all self pair in a couple second
As in the fresh air intake for the combustion? It pulls its air in from a hole drilled thru the floor, with and air intake tube from underneath the trailer, ran 10 feet away from the exhaust pipe, and on the other side of the trailer
