At around 8:50 you showed us the problem. Once the Unifence is engaged into the rail you don't rotate the handle. It's all up and down motion to lock and unlock. Also, using the miter slot to align the fence is assuming the table top is correctly aligned to the saw blade. Others may not know this, so be sure the top is aligned to the blade first. After the miter slot is adjusted parallel to the blade the slot then becomes an accurate reference point to adjust the fence. Also, I like to kick my fence to the right at the back end a couple thousandths to make sure there will be absolutely no chance of kickback. Doing this won't affect the accuracy. Just calibrate your pointer by measuring at the front tip of the blade. And man, stop using your table top as an anvil! Try a C clamp. Cheers!
Maybe there is a chance, you could help me with an advice. Just got a similar saw with a unifence system, my problem is that I don't know how I could mount the extruded aluminum rail to the front table top, I have 2 nuts and bolt system for it but how do you get it fit inside the rail itself?
@@simonb.917 You should have double threaded studs an some nuts and washers that came with the rail. You slide the nuts into the channel inside the rail and line up each nut with a hole on the front side of the rail. Then insert a stud through a hole on the front side of the rail and thread it into the nut. Repeat for the remaining nuts/studs. Now you have threaded studs protruding from the front of the rail. Line these up with the factory holes in the front edge of the table and table extension. Note that the table extension should have a strip of angle iron with stud holes attached to the underside of the table extension. Line up all studs with all the holes and insert. Add washers and nuts to the backside. Of course you will need to level the extruded rail with the table before final tightening. The Delta part number for the installation booklet is 422-27-655-0028. Good luck.
I have the same saw from 1999. My Unifence has really been perfect since the day I set it up. Great fence and once you calibrate the pointer it is very accurate.
The Woodworking Hack ...Did you have the same dilemma I did back in 1999? The Unifence or Biesemeyer? I chose the Unifence as it appeared go be more versatile. I think they were the same price or maybe the Unifence was a little more.
As other commenters have posted, I've never had a problem with my Unifence (have a Delta cabinet saw). It has remained true and square since I got it over 25 years ago; have never needed to adjust it and have never had a problem locking it. Occasionally I'll remove the fence if I need additional work space, and when I put it back on it remains true and square. At times I thought about changing it out for a Beisemeyer style but the Unifence is more versatile. And I've built various jigs for it that expand even further what I can do with it.
Thx for taking the time to do this video. Eddie great recovery. I see you even surprised yourself. Now you have the fence properly locking I think you'll appreciate the robustness of the fence. One of the guys put skateboard roller bearings in place of the foot in the back. I thought that was a great idea. Keep us posted how the fence repair is holding up and how you like or dislike the fence now that it is working.
I have had the Delta Unisaw with the 52 inch unifence since 1992. Properly adjusted, this fence is accurate to 1/64 of an inch. No need to measure from fence to blade, set it and rip. Have never had any issues with fence moving once locked in. My only complaint is that it is hard to clamp a sacrificial fence unlike the Biesmire fence.
i notice every time you put your unifence on the saw yo never turn the handle to engage the catch. then pull down the lever to lock it in, you only need to twist the handle to engage the catch apon removing and installing it back on, Ive used the delta unifence for over 20 yrs and never seen a locking issue. that fences is way more divers the the beysimer style.
Wow, I've never seen a unifence used this way. I agree with a couple of the previous posts, I have used my Delta unifence for 25 years, and it is Rock Solid! The only time you turn the lock down handle is when you are removing the fence from the rail. Use up and down ONLY to adjust the fence back and forth. When installing the fence cam into the rail slot, the handle should be in a slightly turned to right position, once the fence is soundly seated in its home position, the handle is turned to the right, the fence slid to the cutting position, and locked down for cutting. The unique cam locks in, and this fence will NOT move! If it does, you have not installed, or set it up correctly. Follow your set up and adjustment procedures in your manual, download one from online if you don't have one. Good Luck.
You've had it for 20 years so I'd say you got your money's worth out of that contractors saw for sure. My table saw was a 2nd hand that I bought about 7 years ago for 75 bucks and it's done OK I have my eye on the Rigid 13 Amp 10 in. Professional Cast Iron Table Saw. It goes for around 600.00. Have a woodworking friend who has had one for several years and it has stayed true to square through a lot of serious use. Plus, I like the Rigid lifetime service warranty.
Rigid is good, good luck with that. I do love my Delta...my only complaint is the fence...New ones have really great fences...I would love a new one, but this works just fine for me.
It looks like you have a stamped metal cam that you were hammering on. My unisaw has a machined from solid steel cam. If I were you I would buy a cam like mine.
I was thinking the same thing. I have this exact fence system and I never twist my handle unless I am removing/installing the fence. I just lift the handle and my fence tracks smoothly left and right. Overall I've been happy with this fence system, I can easily and quickly make very accurate adjustments and once I clamp it down I'm always confident it is aligned precisely with my blade.
You don't seem to have a real understanding of how to properly adjust and align the Unifence. You have been unhappy since day one because you have misused it since day one. Properly adjusted that fence will sit flat on the table. Zero gaps. My Unifence is on my cabinet saw that is much older than your machine. I am in my 80's and I have had it for 30 years. Granted it is a cabinet saw and the Unifence is much longer but it is the same design. It is a rugged, precision tool and I do believe you need to understand its operation and alignment to get full and precise use of it. It does require some adjustment on a regular basis but that is no more than tweaking with the Allen wrenches ever few days. Woodworking requires patience. AND knowing the proper use of your tools.
Thank you for the critique. As I mentioned...I tried everything since I bought it...never was completely happy with it. I have tried other fences (Biesemeyer) and they are far superior (in my opinion) I do know how to adjust the fence and I do it every few months or so. To be honest, I think I may have a lemon because I have used other Unifences and they seem very good.
Ok, stupid question.. Why is it that the unifence measure markings do not start at the blade but yet 8-12" to the right? Seems to me if you wanted to do a 5 inch rip cut that there would be no way of measuring.. I know I am somewhat stupid but am I missing something?
Hi again. I tried everything that you did in your video and still no success getting the handle to lock it’s pretty frustrating. What exactly are you trying to accomplish when hitting the sides of the handle? Should they be real tight to the handle and not allow the handle to flop down? The stress this is causing me makes me just want to go back to the clamp, but I don’t like giving up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Ty
I couldn’t get my handle to lock down on a saw I just picked up secondhand. It locked when I pushed it down but sprang back up when I let go. I took some sandpaper to the curved part of the handle, sanding perpendicular to the handle to increase the friction when it engages with the washer in the locked position. Worked perfectly after that.
I found that you have to pay attention to how far in you have the 2 large black nuts adjusted to when adjusting the fence to be parallel to the miter slot along the entire fence length. If they are too far out, you don't have enough tension on the locking handle when you rotate it right and push it down to lock the fence in place. If the nuts are too far in, you won't be able to rotate and push the locking handle down. Start with both nuts further out and incrementally adjust each one of them to align the fence and then check that you can rotate the locking handle and have enough tension that you can push it down and lock it in place. I think if the nuts are too far in, you won't be able to rotate the locking handle enough to engage it. After I did this, it's repeatedly easy to lock it in place.
Hi I’m looking for some help. I have this same set up. An old timer finish guy left it to my dad about ten years ago. The few times I e used it we have to clamp down the fence because it doesn’t lock. Weather the fence is on or off the handle is just limp. It has zero tension on it and just flops down. If I hold it in the lock position the fence will not move. The minute I take any pressure off the handle the fence is free. Could the handle be missing a spring or something? Anyone with any information would be greatly appreciated. Ty
Eddie-What you are doing is OK if you are cutting up dimensional lumber to build stuff. You do have a "contractr's saw." But if you want to make cabinets, or furniture or other projects that call for serious accurcy you are not doing it correctly. Rockler makes the correct tool for accurately adjusting the fence and the blad, It's called a Table Saw Alignment Gauge ($59.95), there are similar toos from othe makers as well, but those short and certainly innacurate squares give you only a very rough estimate of square. The same is true of trying to eyeball the fence against the miter slot on the cast iron table. Not good enough for precision work. If you only have one blade and never sharpen or change it, your adjustment of the the indicator window is OK, but the minute you change the blade from carbide teeth to plain teeth, or vice-versa, or sharpen the blade, buy a new blade, or put in a stacked dado set, you have to redjust the indator or use an accurate tape to measure the fence to blade tooth distance. If you don't readjust the sight window, it will be off enough to create gaps in your project or keep the wood filler manufacturer's in business.
Thank you friend, good advice all around. I am eyeballing a new saw, not sure which one yet, but it's coming down to Saw-Stop or Harvey, I'll let you know...better yet I'll probably record a review.
@@TheWoodworkingHack Been making sawdust and woodchips for over 60 years. I own a Delta 5hp 220v Platinum cabinet saw (#36-956) with a 52" Unifence system built in 1999. I bought it new, love it, and use it to make cabinets, furniture, etc, etc. Last year I got careless, and for the first time ever, it bit me, hard. Totally my own fault. It was a wake up call and now I am a safer and more cautious woodworker. I still have my thumb. If I was buying a saw today I would by the SawStop. I can't think of any reason why I would buy a tool that can very easily take off fingers, and hands when I can buy a SawStop that will do everything my Delta can do except inflict grievous bodily harm. You can still do yourself great bodily harm with it if you create a situation where it kickbacks at you. Bit, if you are holding the workpiece when it tries to drag your hand into the blade in a split second, at most you will suffer a small nick. The cost of repair after that happens is a new blade and about $95 which you can take out of your wallet with all your fingers still intact!
@@sunny71169 I too was bit several years ago, sent my thumb through the blade...luckily the blade was barely proud of the work piece...Total complacency was the reason. I am leaning Saw-Stop. In fact I think my wife is insisting.
@@TheWoodworkingHack You highlighted one of the causes of the injury: I was doing a 45 degree miter and the blade was sticking out past the workpiece much further than necessary. 2nd mistake: reached over the spinning blade to keep the workpiece close up against the fence. 3rd mistake: did not set use a feather board clamped to the fence. 4th and final mistake, and the one that precipitated the other 3: in a hurry to finish the cut, shut down, and have dinner. Listen to your wife, she is giving you very good advice. She would be the one to drive you to the emergency room while you try to control the bleeding-try direct pressure first. Tourniquet is a last resort.
Not sure what you are talking about...I checked my phone once because the video is sent to my phone so that I can make sure things look ok...No directions friend.
Thx for taking the time to do this video. Eddie great recovery. I see you even surprised yourself. Now you have the fence properly locking I think you'll appreciate the robustness of the fence. One of the guys put skateboard roller bearings in place of the foot in the back. I thought that was a great idea. Keep us posted how the fence repair is holding up and how you like or dislike the fence now that it is working.
