This is how I adjust the engage temperature of a kit masters viscous fan clutch. This one was from a t444e school bus but it's similar for many vehicles including dt466, Cummins etc
Excellent information. I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L V8 with two fans. One is a viscous fan and the other electric. I'm replacing the electric one and came across your video where I learned more about the viscous fan. Thanks for posting!
You in the guts technicians I love what you do you make things seem and explain things to make it look so easy there is a lot of backbreaking work involved but just what you guys do by showing the ease of adjusting these small things that these high hourly waged labors at these mechanic shops charge it's just really kind of ridiculous so thank you very much and keep saving the poor man some money One Love
Thank you so much for the information, I have a 99 international 4700 with the famous T444e so I want to use your little trick & I also used a 180 degree thermostat. Works great.
Thanks so much. I have a 2008 Chevy Colorado and live in a hot climate. I have noticed the temp getting close to the red line and spent a few days sitting in the truck with ac on and watching and raising the rpm and the fan makes allot of noise. Then temp comes down to 3/4 and the fan disengages and up goes the temp. So the fan is releasing way to soon. When new at idle with ac on temp never went up. So thanks to you I will adjust the fan clutch and see what happens. Driving down the road even at 25 or 30mph the temp comes down to the middle where it should be. But I have some jobs where I sit in the truck with ac on watch the worker so it has to stay cool and me too. Thanks again. G
I HAVE A P30 1985 4.8 STEP VAN & IM THINKING I MIGHT NEED TO CHANGE MY FAN CAUSE I CHANGED EVERYTHING ELSE & THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE STILL GOES VERY HIGH THEN BACK DOWN SO IM THINKING IT'S THAT, SO WAS WONDERING IF I WOULD NEED ANY SPECIAL TOOLS TO REMOVE THE FAN CLUTCH IF NEED BE .. THANKS
My fan is running all time my rad is cold all time so when my bottom stat opens it shuts straight away so I not getting no circulation through rad am I right in thinking there not supose to run at all till radiator gets hot
Thanks for the info. I fitted a new one to my BMW a few weeks ago. It came in a Borg Warner box. Does that mean it's actually made by Borg Warner? The problem I have now is the fan is engaged a little all the time even when cold. I can hear it above about 2000 rpm. Do you think it will loosen up after more work? I do not think the radiator has ever got hot enough to actually engage it yet so maybe it needs a full heat cycle to settle down?
When you adjust the bimetalic spring counterclockwise you are loosening it. Less tension? Correct. So as it heats it will move less. Just thinking out loud. Also he said when cold the shaft should be stiff. Isnt it supposed to turn freely when cold?
Awesome video, thank you for the information!! I was taking a look at my components and don’t see the wiring associated with some of the other fan clutches I’ve seen for this motor. Do some t444E’s not have the capability of swapping to an electric fan clutch?
I believe the older (94 through early 97) 3 box computer T444E doesnt have the buolt in provisions in the ECM for an electric clutch.. however you can still use one.. on mine I chose to use a Dakota digital fan controller.. technically its designed for electric fans bit it just turns on a relay at a preset engine temp and turns it off at a preset temp so it can do the same with an electric clutch.. there was a spare 1/8" NPT pipe plug that goes into the coolant circuit behind the fan pulley on the engine so I installed a separate sensor that the dakota controller uses.. then i used a Horton E450 fan clutch and the upgraded 9 blade plastic fan. I installed that setup a long time ago and it still works like a champ..
@@eldoradoboyseriously thank you so so much for that information, that is seriously so helpful!!! I’ve seen people use switches to manually turn on and off an electric fan by wiring into the wires that connect to the fan clutch solenoid, but I had no idea that an electric fan can be controlled by a switch alone on a vehicle without established electrical components. So does the electrical fan then have to be connected to the alternator?
I have a 2006 international 4300 dt466 my temp is going to close 200 to 230 driving at 65mph if I accelerate more is going more up I'm ready change the thermostat and flush the coolant and put new coolant still happening that temperature is a regular or I'm overheating? I read is i touch the fancluht setting to down the Temp without change the thermostat my diesel mileage is going to be really bad it's that true?
In my case the IH 3800 and older 4000 series had a split radiator turbo cooler, the fan clutch on temp was well over 210 that the electric clutches turn on. Due to cool and hot air mixing. In your case if your fan isn’t on by 215 I’d be looking at the clutch as being bad. What you describe is a classic sign of a clutch stuck in minimum speed. Cools fine I’m town but gets hot highway. It never hurts to check the thermostat and radiator, CAC, A/C Combes set for dirt too but by 220 that fan should be screaming. 230 is dangerous for a 466e, surprised the dash wasn’t alarming visible and audio
and if the lower 'skid plate' is gone, and the factory shrouds around the wheel wells have disappeared... then in therory, all that extra air is getting into the engine bay... and well... schooot..!! O'course, I'm talkin' 454 BBC 7.4l in a 95 Burb... great info..!
air recirculation is a Hige issue on a lot of vehicles.. hot air fro mthe radiator going under the vehicle.. blowing forward from reflection or from outside wind (while parked).. causing hot iar to get sucked right back in.. ive watched more than one A/C system shut off on high head because of it
Is this type of fan clutch used in the older International 4700 and first year Durastar? I drove trucks with manual transmission were awesome loud in 1st gear when accelerating.
If you let the spring pressure move the plate and went with that, didn't you select a higher temperature? Something tells me that if you want the fan to come on at a lower temp, you need to move that plate against spring pressure.
not entirely.. at low RPM yes but at higher RPM the clutch has a maximum torque where over that it will slip as its not a mechanical connection.. its still fluid drive.. this helps to protect the fan blades against over-speed at high RPM but still give good cooling at idle.. esp importabt for slow moving vehicles like school busses and refuse trucks - they often ran smaller water pump pulleys to spin the fan faster at idle and then relied on the clutch to partially slip at high RPM to keep the blade RPM down a bit.. most of the medium duty manufacturers required a fan blade change to go from a viscous clutch to an electric full-engagement horton) style clutch.. the newer balde was typically plastic and had a different blade pitch desaigned for full engine RPM..
it does disconnect and go to minimum speed after the initial run-up. ive been told a couple reasons for the startup full engagement . 1 being the fluid settles into the chamger used for engagement. so the unit is stiff after being parked.. 2. being they want a run-up in case you have A/C to cool the condenser before the engine warms up and engages the clutch.
@@eldoradoboy Thank you for a real reply. RU-vidrs may not know of which they preach. And new products are garbage. I just keep working on my beloved 87 Suburban, and I figure it out.
@@eldoradoboy I add more reply. ; Cold, it should free wheel, let the motor warm up. Hot, it should pull full force through the radiator. I've studied the way it works. MOST videos tell it wrong. Ask me how I know.
@@wildbillfirehands When cold the viscous fan should be engaged for roughly the first 20 seconds or so. (may not be as noticeable on warmer days when engine is cold) At which point you'll hear the fan noise subside. If one can freewheel the fan easily when cold it has failed.
I get mine from kit-masters they have all different kinds. you can call them if you have a part number from the chevy dealer and see if they have a cross.. they buy borg warner paerts and make their clutches. I think most all of the borg warner clutch packs are adjustable
ive never had the screws snap.. its possible though and no advices other than to drill them out if possible.. the clutch housing is aluminum and the screws are steel so you end up with metallurgy issues when a clutch is old.. the clutch I demo'd was not real old so the screws turned easy.. on older stuff i always recommend a bit of kroil or other penetrating oil to soak before trying to loosen
typically the fluid migrates when the engine is shut off.. if the engine was Hot last time you drove then the clutch fluid has an easier time of migrating to the part of the clutch for engagement..this results in when you first start the truck the fan will run hard for a minute or 2 then shuts down.. I was also told by a manufacturer that this is also done because you need some fan air for the A/C when the engine firsrt starts before the air from the rad is hot enough to fully engage the clutch. the highest A/C load is idling right after startup on a hot day.. at idle the fan will stay mostly engaged for longer than a minute or so.. the A/C stays cool this way..
I honestly think you went the wrong way. I'm working with the exact same fan clutch on my school bus (t444e). As the coil heats it will stretch and turn the switch clockwise. I would think tightening the spring up more to move it further clockwise would be what you need to do. But there's such limited information I'm going to play with the heat gun and figure this out
Not here to talk $h!t about anyone, or their knowledge...well at least not today; but when a vehicle sits over night and cools down to ambient temperature the clutch fan if correctly operating WILL INDEED FREE WHEEL WITH LITTLE RESISTANCE due to the thermal sensitive viscus fluid thus will spin easily... And when the vehicles motor is at operational temp the viscus fluid will be released from the reservoir at the center of the clutch fan hub via the heat sensitive coil spring and cause the resistance you feel while attempting to rotate the clutch fan while the motor is at operating temp {of course while the vehicle is not running}
every function al clutch fan with a Borg warner clutch (many many). will engage for a minute or 2 when the vehicle is cold as the fluid has settled wit hthe vehicle sitting.. this is documented as normal behaviour and I currently own several vehicles with said clutches that engage perfectly when the vehicle is hot ..the clutch is engaged in the beginning when first started then disengages shortly after.. and will then engage as needed with air temperateure fro mthe radiator thereafter during that trip. the forced engagement doesnt occur if the cehicle only sites for short periods of time between runs..
