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I’ve came across all of these issues atleast once doing all of my swaps! Great info. I’m saving this to a playlist, great info. Wish I could of watched this video first when doing my EF Dpfi-MPFi obd0-obd1 vtec swap. I ended up flooding the engine because of the distributor wiring. And possibly toasted the piston rings in the process. Lesson learned the hard way.
Man i love your videos keep it up!! I remember the one time my car wouldn't start because of the starter and in another video you talked about the fuel pump prime noise and engine light so it helped me a lot in figuring that out
I agree with everyone ,you have great knowledge mark , your channel has helped me a shit ton when it comes to doing somthing to my ek , keep them videos comming i love this channel my favorite out of all the ones i seen !
Mark, I have a 92 civic VX manual and I'm trying to swap a B18C1 into the hatch. What wiring harness could I use so that the installation is a plug and play affair? Great video, keep the content coming!
Honestly was hoping this video was more K swap help oriented. The things to troubleshoot especially with Kpro in an EG chassis! Actually both of what your white coupe IS.
Appreciate all the information, I just did my first swap. I took a B20b/GSR combo out of a swapped EG, into a 98HX. However I'm not getting any fuel pump prime or action from the starter. Key in will beep, lights and blower/ radio will work but nothing past that. I went through and checked my grounds, actually pulled them off and brushed everything clean. Is there anything else you could possibly think of or something I might have over looked (also side notes- using the obd2a to obd1 jumper - injector adapter harness, and - the dizzy adapter plug. )
Mark you are full of great knowledge, and very helpful for all us Honda guys. I do have one question, what did you mean about jumping the blue plug you could read your codes? Thanks Mike
The Blue plug is a diagnostic connector, you put a jumper in it with the key turned off, then turn the key to KOEO (Key on engine off) and the Check engine light will blink out the error codes if there are any present in the ECU
this is all good info and you really know your stuff, with respect im in ontario canada and a k series engine starts around 3 k the you also need axles and ecu programmed so i dont know where your located to say 200 to 400 for a k24A engine please let me know as it might be worth shipping to CANADA. thanks
Time to try the ground trick...I have a heat soak issue. 1999 Honda Civic EX i swapped in a B20..She gives me hell when trying to start hot. Takes way too long and end up having to wait at least 30 plus minutes. No engine light car runs and idle likes a dream
Aloha from hawaii. Just wanted to say I enjoy watching your videos. I was wondering if there is anyway I can contact you to ask you some questions about my build on my civic. Look forward to your response. Mahalo!
Dope channel. Super informative. Quick question for you, when replacing the timing belt on a b18 LS. If everything was TDC and in the process of buttoning everything back up something came out of time and the engine was started what kind of damage would come from it?
I have a '90 EF that I converted to OBD1 MPFI. It starts instantly and runs great with no CEL...until you hit 45mph. As soon as I hit 45, I get a code 4 and it goes into limp mode. Thoughts?
Hey boss, great video with insights on starting issues for swaps. I have my first. 99 lx with a D series y7 to swap for a d16y8 and want to run a 97 civic ex p2p ecu. Can i swap the engine and keep the distributor, temporarily until i have time to repin the harness to the ecu? Will this combination work if i repin the existing harness to the ecu? Thanks for any info boss.
Just did a b20b8 swap in my 98 y8 Civic im using a 98 teggy gs obd2a p75-a04 ecu..its is getting fuel pressure and spark and still wouldn't start I had checked everything even the ground straps after about 15 minutes trying to figure it out.. found out the injectors were stuck close (engine was likely sitting up for two or more years with an open fuel line) after lighty tapping on each injector it finally ran. I also had to get a new alternator the obd2a Y8 wiring harness used a square 4 pin plug B20 had an oval 3 pin The knock sensor plug in the Y8 wire harness we're a little bit different..had to cut the knock sensor plug off on the B20s severed harness, cut off the y8 plug then splice the b20 plug in the Y8 harness.
i hear a p75 for the b20 is MEH because it doesnt run enough fuel for the b20, but others say ls’ actually run fairly rich stock so it could even out for the b20. my guess is get an FPR just to be on the safe side?
Good day.....love your knowledge....my question is I have a 1991 Honda accord ex 4 door bought the car with according to seller a h23a1 jdm engine non vtec. What can I do to make more power? Where can I find hasport mounts? Where can I get a k-tuned type short shifter? Where can I shop? Am I obd1 or obd2? Help help help please
I have a 99 civic with k24a2 swap with type s engine harness and k tuned harness with a jdm ecu 37820 Prc-013 install everything as it says k tuned but the fuel pump is not prime the mail relay is new
hey man i need some assistance, I just got done putting a b20b into a da9, the car was drivable before but SUCKED, anyway it started up fine, got the idle going great and sat at idle for like 10 minutes running beautifully, then it cut out with no sputtering just dash lights then dead. we found a blown ecu fuse, replaced it and still no start, just crank. then we checked and had no spark so we replaced the igniter and coil with the old one cause we knew that one was good, and still no start. when i re-checked the ecu fuse it had blown again. the only thing not hooked up is a green plug from the harness that the b20 has no fitting for on the back side. can you help?
To anyone who may be able to help: I have an 04 civic coupe EX with a k20a3 swap that I bought from a friend when my car was totaled. Ran great for about 3 months but recently I have been having a intermittent issue getting it to crank up. Some times it’ll start up first try, sometimes 2-3 tries then it’ll start, and sometimes not at all. I’ve checked fuel pressure to the fuel rail and spark and both are just fine. It’ll just keep turning over when the issue is present. From what I’ve seen, it may be a immobilizer issue but the only symptom I have for that is the green key light that comes on the dash when I put the key no longer illuminates. I’ve tried pulling the codes but the scanner I used won’t connect. Any suggestions?
The wires on my main relay have been cut and never attached properly... took over a year to figure that out ( it's a Da ) looked like someone wanted to attach a kill switch
I have a question. I did a b16 obd2 on a 97 ek and everything was running fine for the first two months but than I started getting idle issues and check engine light. I checked the code and it was bad iddle controll valve so I got a new one from orally but it actually made it worse. So I went to the junk yard and got another one used and it work fine again for about two months and than the same thing happen. Now every time I change it it only last a couple days or the longest it would go will be a week. I re checked the wiring and everything looks good
So i have a k20z1 with a a2 trans, a2 harness and kprov4 in a 05 em2 and chameleon tuned my car and dealt with the car for most the swap but im having some serious issues with it. 3 months ago or so i threw a CEL for camshaft position sensor malfunction A BANK1 and the car would sometimes stall out randomly and then the car would drive normally. It hasnt happened in awhile. Untill recently i was driving and all of asudden my car goes in to limp mode and wont go past 2k rpms and then throws a code for the crank sensor. Also note that when the CEL popped up it dissapeared it never stayed on the dash they always dissapeared. So i did a few things 1.changed crank sensor 2. changed my fuel pump 3. Checked the timing but it looks like it might be off by a tooth 3. Changed spark plugs and noticed they were gunked up black 4.i changed the pcv valve 5. Changed camshaft sensors 6. checked fuses Also the car looks like its running rich. The car doesnt seem to want to get out of limp mode and i was doing research and they said it could be because my timing, my ecu is fucked up and or bad or corroded wire connectors but i checked the connectors and they dont look bad well to me atleast. This car is my daily and i started school so i need to figure this ish out and an obd2 scanner isnt showing any codes along with the hondata bluetooth app isnt showing anything and the scanner isnt showing anything for that matter doesnt show rpms or voltages, or anything
We ran the car as soon as we put the head and valve cover back on bit im wantin to get it out and start driving it again and finish it.... i would like to see what you say
So what if my chipped p28 suddenly stopped priming the fuel pump before start up sometimes? It was intermittent. I ended up swapping that p28 with a different p28 and transplanting my hondata into the new one. Now it runs like absolute doodoo.
Man bro I really wish I could call you. I’m from seattle wa and just recently installed the hybrid racing ac kit on my 95 si hatchback. After I changed the setting in k manager white key on, engine off the radiator came on right away and then when I started engine the compressor was on also. I still need to check a few things but man would I love to chat with u for 5 mins. Let me know if you can make that happen
Hey brother my friend had a d16y7 civic and has a d16z6 engine...what will he need to be able to do this swap for everything to plug and work? Thank you man
Yo bro im about to start my high compression frankenstein swap on my 98 civic its sat for couple years in my driveway. What do i need to doo when i put new batyery in my trubk where they relocated it... it still has almost a full tank of gas... what do i need to do as soon as i throw my battyery in it to get it runnin. I had my head checked and sure enough it was ported and polished dont wanna cause damage if you can get back with me thanks estart
What’s up man having a problem with my b20 swap in my 98 civic hatch dx. Got the car with the stock d16y7 swapped its last year with a full ls (b18b1) swap went together perfect but for some reason this b20 is giving me the hardest time. Week before Christmas lost compression in cyclinder 4 on the b18 so picked up this jdm b20 for a good deal ran like shit skees check everything comp 210 in all cylinders legit perfect 210 no joke. Check spark plugs fuel filter everything looks good. Fuel pressure stays between 40-45 at idle. It idles perfect but when I drive and get any type of spend it stutters feels like fuel cut but I don’t know where from. Injectors?
question, my neighbor is selling a 2010 civic and he did an swap with a 07 civic engine and every time he starts the car he has to plug a obd reader in order to start. once it starts everything works ok. any ideas?
d16y4 swap to b18c2 what wiring harness need i add or i need to take off all the integra harness and put in my car ,, any easy way to wiring the harness
I have done a b series swap on my ek ... When i put the battery in , 2 or 3 lights come on without the key in it .. and when I turn the ignition on only the handbrake light and just clicks when I try and start , please help
Im having issues on my b20v swap in a ek civic. I have fuel and pressure going to the fuel rail and injectors but all my injectors won't prime or open so unfortunately I have no fuel going into the engine to start it up. 96 civic dx, using a 98 civic ex 5spd harness on a chipped p72. Any idea where to start?
I got a 96 civic hb with a b18b everything is plug but when i turn the key the chek engine light dont get on and the main relay do not get activated (im using the jdi relay) i chek the main relay plug with the tester and it have voltage what it could be the problem?
Now that I got the right ecu for my swap (b18b1 in a 2000 honda civic si em1 shell) I switched the pin over so my fuel pump kicks on now my car cranks but won't start anyone know why that could be?? Bad ground or need a new battery? Help plz
if anyone wants to chime in ive got a fully built turbo d17 i recently swapped my cam , injectors and ecu back to stock so i can do emissions thing is now car is running super lean and you can hear the engine wants to bog out dont want to drive it like this even just to do emissions anything else i can possibly do?
Heyy I just swapped a b18b1 in my civic I did not ground it properly but we still got it to fire by jumping the starter it ran for abit I accidentally put it in gear and it stalled we grounded transmission and everything so it turns over without jumpin but now it’s not getting any spark , , spark plugs are soaked have you guys every ran into this !?
Hey bro . I have Honda Civic 98 sir and did some mixing with block B20 with B16 it was working fine and now it crank but won't start I check for spark it's ok fuel I don't hear it and check the fuel pump out side and it's working the fuse is ok but when I put is back there is no start for fuel pump and try jump wire directly it was on cranking but still no start . Can you tell me what to check
2000 crv rtawd b20z2 stock. cranks but no start has spark fuel pressure changed the crankshaft position sensor an no check engine light at all distributor changed nothing. Spark plugs were black
I just swapped ecu out of my 2005 civic 1.7l coupe VP with the same exact ECU part numbers & had it programmed & key paired with immobilizer. Now it won't prime at all.
I'm having issues with my ek with a gsr swap. It cold starts but after it gets up to running temp it will not start back up, just clicks. New distributor, tried another ecu, main relay, map sensor, idle air control valve, coolant temp sensor.. i have spark, had this swap for about a year, this just started happening... helpppp lol
Help please...I have a 91 ef with a zc swap. I didn't do the work myself bought it that way. But the starter is kicking out but not turning the motor. Just had starter tested..its good. New battery and the motor is not stuck I can turn it by hand.
Hey i have a question i cant find the answer i have a 2001 honda accord lx 4cl i did a jdm h22a obd1 i convert the harness and and everything the car turns on and run with stock accord computer but i recently i bout a s300 v3 p28 i put a base map on it gsr so i can get it to a tuner but the car wont start with the ecu it wont prime from the pump check engine is on stay solid wile cranking but wont fired cuz is not getting no fuel or spark but i connect the stock accord 4 cl ecu will start right up any ideas!?
Can someone help? K24 04 civic coupe 5 speed swap, fresh swap, new ktuned tucked harness, conversion harness, has spark, fuel pump turns on with the key, 40 psi fuel pressure. New crank position sensor, intake and exhaust cam sensors are not swapped, i have 2 grounds, one near intake mani to chassis and another small one near the oil pan to chassis. Harness is grounded on the coil packs. My problem: injectors arent coming on Someone help please
k24a2 swapped ek. 04 type s harness, kpro ecu. all grounds checked blah blah simple shit checked. car isnt getting spark and when the fuel rail is out and cranking the car nothing is coming out even tho they are clean and flow out of the car. 50 psi fuel pressure and immobilizer and multiplex disabled. what should i be looking for to fix this?
