Make no mistake about it. I have 2 tall 50 cans full of various gun oils, grease, and cleaners that I've tried over the years. Nothing beats a full synthetic motorcycle sae 60. It just works better than everything I've ever tried. I even use it in my barrels. Everything just wipes right off.
Black Rifle People want to make the best for their bucks, man. Nobody wants to be fooled by a brand that claims their product is the only thing to use or the most effective thing to use or the most reliable and acceptable etc... when there’s a simpler solution and on top of that might even cost a lot less.
I was taught to clean rifles with hot water, a nylon brush and Simple green in marine Bootcamp in 1991, then follow with clp. I do this with all my guns, never had a problem, but started using mobile 1 to save $ and it’s been great, and cheaper. No issues.
@@kimbantigue6220 I know this comment is 3 years old, and im not the original commenter, but personally I've used at some point full synthetic and conventional motor oil in all of my guns and have never had any issues. I feel like synthetic is better but its probably a placebo.
I'm going to say something here about the lithium grease you said. Look at your gears, your your and so forth your tracks and so forth for your garage door openers after about a year 2 years if you're not cleaning your firearm for that long, pretty much anything is either going to be gone or not usable. It's no longer a protectant. It doesn't matter if it's firearm related automotive or what it is exposed out into the open like that after about a year or two. It's it's not good if you're going to store your firearms for long term. You should be putting something that is knit for firearms storage and do things to protect firearms for long-term storage and I'm not talking about storing something for hunting. I'm talking about storing something for long-term for one reason or another. Like maybe you're going to be going to deployed or something like that. You want to store it? Use something appropriate for long-term storage. You should be cleaning the old grease old oil out of the tracks out of the rails out of places and put a new my opinion every 6 months. No longer than a year if you're not using it, but I've had gun grease and gun oil that I forgot about and 6 months later the stuff was junk garbage. I've left it open. Forgot about it. I had some gun oil that I really liked. 6 months later it was breaking apart and I couldn't mix it and get it back together and the grand grease that I had the cap got broke and it was it was nasty stuff so it doesn't matter time breaks it down especially if it's exposed to the elements meaning just open air
Thanks Fred, really enjoy your efforts in helping us gun guys keep our equipment in the best of shape. I just recently started using M-Pro 7 and your test seemed very favorable with that product.
motor oil is ment to preserve, its one of the main reason we use it- Thats common knowledge... Armalite has even gone so far and endorsed mobile synthetic motor oil for their rifles.. as oils ment for cars goes thru much harsher conditions than in most rifles you can securely use it in auto rifles.Automatic Transmission Fluid is also a good cleaner/lubricant for rifles
Alexander Wilhelm Yeah, at ~ 2:36 when he says it doesn't "preserve". The first thing I thought of is, I'm fairly certain ALL modern motor oils have Rust Inhibitors, etc. in their Additive Packages/Formulations.
also steel sheets like that have a protective coating on them. if you were to use some paint thinner to strip it off and redo the test itd be a more realistic example of how these products work at preventing rust when left outside
The flash point of grease is about the same as oil, they all vary. As far as how your garage door tracks look after a year, if you're leaving your guns out in the open for a year then yes, they'll probably look as bad. But the door still works so the guns should also. Regardless, grease is a compromise lubricant and oil is better if you can keep it where it needs to be. Simple green is a great cleaner, but it'll ruin anodizing and can damage some metals fairly quickly so use with caution. If you wanna try a lube that'll actually change the feel of a gun's action try Hornady OneShot, it's amazing.
When I was in the Army, we used pure Simple Green for everything! Degreasing brand new rifles out if the box to cleaning the latrine! Of course we used Break Free for lubrication and it worked well. If you want a good grease then you need GMD. Grease monosodium disulfide works well fir the M2 and is the prefered grease for the Mk19.
nathan hiatt simple green fixes everything. Just make sure you get it from a home improvement store. The stuff at your run of the mill place is not full strength.
Motor oil on pistol slide rails stays put for extended periods of time and works fine. Break Free CLP for everything else. Particularly wiping the gun down to prevent rust and is excellent in the lockwork.
Man, I just wanna thank you for taking your time and effort to run your test. The haters out there are the ones that wish they had the time, money, and resources to do what you did. Again man, thank you.
Right now, I have 6 guns and went through 3 $10 bottles of cleaners and lubrication in 3 months time with moderate use. Mobil Full Synthetic saves me a lot of money and time. Not saying it's the best, merely that it works, it's about the same price as dedicated oils and you get 4x the product.
I cant imagine the simple green preserving anything since its a cleaner. The motor oil is something i've used for keeping my AR's wet while out on a shooting trip. It worked great. I never would use it to preserve my gun but it worked great in the field for the week I tried it. Besides that I only ever tried the Militec and of course Ballistol.
I use simple green to clean my firearms and have used 3n1 oil since the late 70's to recoat after cleaning. Have never had a gun sieze or jam due to lubrication (or lack of), and I burn upwards of 200 rounds per weapon on any given range day.
First off, we don't routinely clean and relube our garage door rails although we probably should. If your silicone cloths get dirty wash them and warm soapy water, allow to dry and recharge with silicone and CLP.
I have used only walmart red lithium grease, mobil 1 and super slick stuff on my guns for the past 3 years and have absolutely no problems. I also live in the tropics in a high salt climate
A nice variety of samples. Simple Green (water based), Ballistol (mineral oil? base), petroleum products, and a silicon base. Haven't heard of the last one in the little white bottle.
I just use High Temp grease that you buy at Walmart, it comes in a blue jar thats maroon in color, as far as rags, i use worn out discolored T-shirts ..all 100% USA made Cotton..OORAH.
I grew up on Hoppes No. 9 and 3-in-1, then went to RBC/LSA in the US Army's pre-CLP days. RBC (Cleaner, Rifle Bore, and Lubricant, Small Arms) were specifically developed for the military, though the others all began as commercial products. CLP was sold as BreakFree for several years before the DOD adopted it, though Tri-Flon (now called Tri-Flow) was a serious contender at the time.
For a grease Break through Battle born grease is very slick and a little bit goes a long way - non toxic. For a cleaner their Battle Solvent is very effective and non toxic. Breakfree CLP for the lube/protection is much more effective next to cleanzoil.
May be late on this, but why are you using simple green on your corrosion test? Simple green is a good industrial but friendly cleaner that can decrease and clean about anything safely with the acceptation to aluminum and the liked metals. I've found that proper cleaning and oiling is just as important as the product. We should always clean and maintain guns as often as possible, especially after use, keeping in mind the risk of crappy burned powder ad well as sweat from out hands and body. Now in saying that I think sometimes we over react with reviewing some products. Once the product is safe and not harsh on your guns, use it. I make it simple. I breakdown and dump everything in warm water and diluted simple green, scrub it with a tooth brush and bore brush, clean it properly with a rag, warm it up with a hair dryer, sock it overnight in CLP (the best), clean it with a clean cloth, hit a few spots with some slide glide and CLP, Good To go!
I use 0w-20 mobile 1 on both of my $4000 custom 2011 38 super comps. I also use it on everything else to include AR-15s and machine guns. Under extensive use Mobile 1 does not get cooked and caked on, makes cleaning very easy. Also is stays where you put it and a quart is cheap and last a long time. More importantly I think keeping the oil fresh and clean is paramount. When storing it for a long period I use silicon cloth and GREAT tip btw on re-saturating the cloth, never thought of that.
Again I'm going to comment on the mobile one. I don't know how well it works cuz being a firearm lubricant or protectant I'm not tried it. But motor oil has to protect and lube engines and engines have air that move in and out of them. They have vents though it is restricted. They still have it so it still is a protectant and it's a high temp protectant and most of your oils will say something about some sort of protective engine. Protectant but again I don't know if it's good for firearms or not. That's why I'm watching this. But I find this kind of stuff interesting
I use white lithium grease on most of my firearms, except for .22 pistols. But then again, I clean my firearms after use, and apparently I’m the only person that does that. Most everyone I talk to NEVER clean their firearms, until they start to malfunction. I was brought up to clean your firearms after every range session, so I’ve never really had any issues. I use Ballistol or CLP to clean my firearms, depending on how much lubricity I want in my firearm.
I like Ballistol, but after that, I use 0W20 synthetic motor oil. If I am storing weapons, I use Boeshield for mothballing military equipment like bombers, or battleships. I use Mobil 1 SHC100 Mobil-lith synth grease that is good for -40 to 475 degrees. I also use Loctite C5A antiseize grease which works great on barrel nuts, for ARs. It's the coppery stuff Glocks come with. Silicone is banned in my shop. I cannot repair wood after it's soaked in silicone.
Leave your weapon out that long, fire it daily, then get back to us. All lubes suffice with light to moderate cleaning. There is no “ end all” miracle, except what the weapon was “ caked” in when you bought it. Yes, the stuff that everyone feels has to be eradicated to have a useful weapon? What’s that called? I’m having a senior moment. Stored for years, but, it’s gotta be eradicated
WRT the white lithium grease, a better product for weapons where *grease* is desirable, the military specification for the Mk19 was molybdenum disulphide (MDS) when I was in (15 years US Army, as an infantryman and Cavalry scout; a further six years as an Air Force flight engineer and airframe technician). Works very effectively as a lube (_not_ cleaner!), but only for weapons where the specifications actually call for it. Also sold commercially as "anti-seize". Re: 3-in-1, I've had excellent results with it on everything from my sidearms and bolt-actions to an R1 (FN-FAL), M-4, M-240 (FN MAG-58), M-2 and M-249 without a single problem. 3-in-1 originally got it's brand name from "clean, lubricate and protect; the _original_ CLP if you will. In fact, US Army manuals of the early 20th century recommend 3-in-1 _by brand name_ for most small arms. Substituting lamp oil in the role of CLP is a bad idea unless it's all you have available, in my opinion. My experience using the latter is that it reduces to ash when the weapon starts getting hot. As a cleaner, I've had good results with CitruSolv, but do not recommend it as a lube. My current "go-to" cleaner/lube combo is Hoppes No. 9 and 3-in-1 respectively. Always had good results with them.
I've been thinking of starting to use Royal Purple Assembly Lube as a lube on my Glock. Does anybody have any actual experience using it as a gun lube. At 8oz for $17.00 it is pricey but still cheaper than a lot of gun lubes. I think a lube that is designed an engine at the initial first engine start up after engine assembly should have a lot going for it.
Very curious. I'd suggest not just leaving it outside. Take it places. Bring it with you when you go some place. Leave it in your car (maybe over night). Set it beside you while your watching tv. Take it to the bathroom. All the things one might do with a firearm. Thanks for the vid Fred.
Nice video ! Somebody needs to do a "plate of truth" test that lives on a oceanfront. That would be a heck of a test. Kinda like a weak version of the 2000hr salt spray test. But I bet it would show up some rusting and weakness fast. It doesn't really show how well it lubricates, or if it dries up waxy over time, but it would show its protection ability.
Been using Mobile 1 and high temperature red wheel bearing grease for lubrication for years without years, for rust prevention ? I use Corrosion X. A lot of gun oil claims fail, don't fall for sales pitch.
If you have nothing else, and especially if you're talking about non-homogenized peanut/sesame butters where the oil tends to quickly separate, that will actually work. Near the end of WW2, the German military was using sunflower oil with most of their small-arms, including the MG.42. Perhaps not ideal, but certainly better than nothing.
you made a comment about WD -40, not sure you are endorsing or warning against its use. i will try and keep this short, making a living as a Tool and die maker and Metallurgists for 40 years i feel confident in my knowledge of machines (a firearm being on of them ) now back to WD 40, used this stuff around the home for general tasks but never used it in trades because we always used products ment for the tasks that hand. now retired i have kept up my T&D skills with a mill,lathe, surface grinder, heat treatment furnace ect. what changed for me was my work environment, an unheated shop, so flash rusting on mill tables, bed ways ect became a real problem, so i got a big jug of wd and would coat all exposed surfaces of my machines and tooling. i did this for about 3-4 years then i started to notice a brown goo forming, it was worse under mill tables, end mill collets ect. wd didn't last long eather, so I replying often. then one day a copy of machinest workshop comes in the mail with an article about wd, and confirmed what i was experiencing. the man hours to remove that goo was long. wd will gum things up, think firing pins, from my understanding the FAA had a TSB on its use in aircraft mant. ( i cant confirm this) wd has no place in or around mechanisms of any kind. your plate of truth, what is the alloy? this will make a difference in how these products will respond.
Great information, I have a question, I just bought a few cans of PB Blaster to spray on a wheel I have, I know its to break free rusted bolts and more, but read the can I did notice on the can it says rust preventative and it says it will not evaporate, It has a lot of quality some of the leading gun oils do, I'm just asking to see what you think,
Grease is bad pulled a glock with grease after 2yrs and it was hard and firing pin stuck to wear potential slam fire could happen it was red high temp grease.
I tried using white lithium on my Tavor. It does work as a lubricant HOWEVER after a long day of shooting the stuff burned up, dried out, and became flaky and was useless for lube. Was also a pain the clean out because almost all gun cleaning products are not designed to remove white lithium. I don't recommend it at all. Anything else would be better if you actually plan on using your gun.
Eliezer Morillo Pineda if you can get a product called Ballistol it is great, thin and smells pleasant, mineral oil or even hair clipper oil will work if you have limited resources
I use Mobil 1 motor oil for guns, knives etc... I have used everything and I can tell you NEVER use paper shredder oil, it gums up and turns into a gluey sticky like substance in a day or two..
Brake cleaner is great for cleaning guns a rifle barrels after the copper removal has Ben applied..works for me..and cheap.remongton cleaner is too expensive
Simple Green is not a preservative for anything. It is a degreaser sufuctant.....a detergent meant for removing greasy grime. Works fantastic for cleaning stove tops and bbq grills. I'm sure it works good for cleaning carbon fouling and old oil off firearms as well, but I don't like it for guns. It will leave the steel bare bones dry of any oil. It strips oil.
I clean my gun with wd40 and wipe down. Then I use mobile 1 5w30 and I have never had any issues. Still runs like new. You should actually try some of these products on an actual gun instead of a piece of shiny metal.
+10mmgee20 the purpose of simple green in a frog lube scenario is the strip the gun of factory petroleum based products so the Frog lube won't interact. once the Frog lube is applied,there will be no corrosion issue.
I use simple green as a solvent to clean my fire arms but I use frog lube right after...I love that both are bio degradable so they don't interact with each other. keep in mind delude the simple green with water
I love this science project stuff. You're good at these. I wouldn't have the patience. For my use, a few pints of Ballistol lasts so long that I don't notice that it's way more expensive than CLP. I like the idea of using Mobil 1 if I know I'm going to clean it again tomorrow but never bothered to try that out myself. How many people do that? I'd like to see how these look after a month in your yard. That sounds dumb but it'll be a cool thing to know and be done with.
I had a very diry 22 rifle, A did not know how to take it apart, it kept jamming, rem oil would not cut, and I was told to spray it down with wd40, I did, and I will tell you that stuff worked really good they also said it would protect and preserve it.
If your just a gun owner, M1 is prob not what they want for their safe dwelling guns. For guns that are constantly being dry fired and shot, M1 grease works awesome.
and for your plate of truth, it only takes how these products acts in the wet. in a gun oil/lubricant/cleaner you have so many more perimeters to consider, like heat, friction, cold, dirt/sand,salt and copper buildup and more..
