Alternator Brush Replacement 

I commend you on your ability to do this while your alternator was still on your motor but this wouldn't work for a lot of vehicles including the 3rd Gen 4runner we used for this video. There's just not enough room. But, good to know it's possible for the 2002 Toyota Sienna.

@@TimmyTheToolman I'm w you 100% - this is just on said sequoia - I watched your vid to know what to do - I was just leaving a comment.

@@vance12341234 Yeah, I get it and thanks for sharing your experience with your 2002 Sienna because that gives a person with the same rig an option they maybe didn't think of. Happy Wrenching!

😂 had to clean the whole assembly the gentleman did an amazing job here #worksmartnothard

Now you tell me, hands all banged up because born with a bump on my head, on the inside.

Good job getting it done. I'm glad our video helped you out. Smart technique with the sharpie provided the belt tension was good before you started the job. Happy Wrenching!

Also they are probably JIS screws, not phillips. I didn't even know what JIS was until yesterday. =-P

You're very welcome!

You're welcome Joe. Good job getting it done.

@@TimmyTheToolman also thank you for saving me literal hundreds of dollars!

@@joeschell873 Our pleasure Joe. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!

Minh Bui this is very true!

Hey Steve, that's good to hear our video helped you get the job done and you fixed all your wiring. Sounds like the guy who did the work wasn't very careful.

Timmy The Toolman yes the video helped immensely! Gave me complete confidence to tackle the job. And it got me in there to reattach a couple things that the goofball that replaced the head gaskets left loose. And yeah the guy that did the job was not the least bit conscientious about the quality of his work. Very sad.

Hey Vickie, glad you appreciate the video and the fact we include our struggles. We do very much think it's important to share our struggles so people will not what to expect. I have heard of that sleeve or bushing you're talking about after making this video. I think it must have been inhibiting the re-insertion of the alternator. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!

Hey Pete, I missed your comment. I replaced my battery with the stock stereo still installed and it didn't ask me for a security code when I powered it back up. Unless there's differences in the years, I think you should be ok.

That's great to hear Tom. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your success story with us.

Steven Bauer thanks for sharing your tips!

Thanks. Glad you like the job we did filming this repair.

You're welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

You're very welcome. Nice to know our video helped you out.

Thanks! We're glad you think so.

You're welcome ! :)

My car has 325k miles. The brushes were almost completely worn away.

Glad our video helped you out and you're very welcome. Yeah, I learned about the movability of that sleeve later on. The way I moved the sleeve was by running a long bolt through the sleeve from the inside out and then slid a socket over the bolt that had an inner diameter wider than the sleeve. I put a nut on and tightened the nut drawing the sleeve outward.

How do you guys do this in an hour?! Am I orbiting a black hole? It's like every recipe I've ever read: prep 20 minutes, done 1 hour. Me: all day. Maybe two.

Yeah, brushes might be all you need.

If your alternator is making noise, you'll need to replace the bearings the pulley shaft rides on. I've seen a write-up a guy did for a full rebuild of the alternator and it didn't seems worth all the effort for the money savings. I don't know how much the rebuild kit cost the guy but the amount of labor that went into the rebuild looked fairly extensive. If it were me, I'd just buy a rebuilt Denso alternator and call it a day.

@@TimmyTheToolman Roger that. Thank you sir!

The brushes are the wear part that usually causes an alternator to fail but there is the IC Regulator and Diode that could go bad as well. I wonder if the guy with the scanner really could pinpoint a bad diode or was he just saying the alternator wasn't charging effectively. If you get yourself a multimeter, you could check to see how many charging volts your system is putting out. Somewhere around 13.8 - 14.2 volts is good.

Timmy The Toolman I was thinking the same thing. I’ve got a multimeter ordered. It’s not the best one but it’s not the worst one either. And it’s better than the one I’ve got now. Once I figure out how to use it I’ll be tracking all kinds of stuff down. . I’ve been studying up a little bit waiting for it to get here. I bet money is just the brushes. And my belt is split and worn out and loose. If I tried to tighten it up it would pop. No need to put a new one on either. Just to turn around and take it back off to replace the brushes. I’m going to limp a couple more days and then get on it. My multimeter will be here and my daughter will be in school. She was home sick all week. But thanks for giving it some thought. I bet dollars to donuts you hit the nail right on the head.

@@wbwills2 Well, let me know what you find when you check the charging volts and then what you find when you pull the brushes out. Hopefully worn out brushes was the culprit and you bought yourself more life for your alternator.

Timmy The Toolman i’m getting anxious but I can do this. I just put 20 bucks in the tank. Sick and tired of getting 10 miles per gallon and smelling un burned fuel. When it was still warm I couldn’t even ride with my back window down it was so bad. I don’t know if I thanked you for the tip on how to twist a belt to see if it’s loose and all. I got this. I can do it by feel thanks to this video and the links below. Also another 6 1/2 minute video I saved that another guy did. I was on the verge of replacing coils and I’ll kinds of crap. Still working on figuring the multimeter out. Holidays are here. With Santa Claus presents to pay for I don’t know how this is going to budget wise but I will surely let you know how it turns out. It’s going to feel good when I’ve got enough power to get out of my own way and I’m not worried about stalling out somewhere. So much crap on the Internet. It’s good to find somebody like you watch in a while. Have a great holidays and a new years

Timmy The Toolman I don’t own a scan tool. I’ll get one eventually. Cylinder number one and number three(it’s been a while I think that’s what another guy with a scanner told me) have not been firing. That 6 1/2 minute video I mentioned a minute ago had the exact same problem. Blasted it with compressed air and a big puff of carbon, dust and mess came out of two cylinders after he took his plugs out. He was doing everything by field. A bunch of good tips. I’ll try and share it with you. Give it a look. If you’d like. You definitely don’t Need to. But it was a good short video. I thought. Wouldn’t mind your opinion on it.

You're smart to fix your quality OEM Denso alternator. Sure, you can get an auto parts store replacement, but like you've found out, they don't last and you'll be doing all that labor again much sooner than you would have liked. Good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!

Timmy The Toolman i’ve got this. Just been a while.

We have that video though it's a starter solenoid rebuild not a motor rebuild: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WV1t5-wcoOI.html

Thanks for the tip.

Howdy Perry, glad you found the video helpful. The manuals I reference are the 2 Volume Toyota Factory Service Manuals for my 2000 4runner. I found the FSM set online for sale and paid $300 for it. I've gotten a ton of use out of my manuals so it was a very worthwhile investment. If you plan on driving your rig till the wheels fall off, I'd recommend you get yourself a FSM set your your Tacoma as well. If you're patient and search on a regular basis, I bet you can find a reasonably priced set on Ebay, Craigslist or some other site. I haven't looked at a Haynes or Chilton manual in a very long time, but I'd have to guess they aren't nearly as good as having the Toyota FSM for your year Tacoma. Happy wrenching!

Thanks for the fast reply . Yeah I had a feeling it was the set of two from Toyota . The best price so far is about $160 . I will keep an eye out . I am disabled but you wouldn't know to see me , but I have set budget . After a couple medium to larger repairs there has not been much I won't do . I did pass off my two universal joint bad vibration to my mechanic . I watched your starter rebuild because of an issue when the weather turned cold , I live outside Washington D C . My battery was twelve years old and tested good at the parts store on two different devices , then my mechanic said the same but my cold cranking Amps were down to 580 . So new battery , the a couple morning of 2 or 3 key turns to start . Then out of the blue the number 2 cylinder starts missing , so new plugs , wires , and coils . Now it always starts but after about 15 key turns usually when it's cold out below freezing , so the starter rebuild unless you have any suggestion . I will budget in those books asap . I pushed snow last year in someones else's truck and made 2K in 3 days so I'm praying for a blizzard lol , Well thanks again , you know I'm really getting attached to this truck .

I'm not sure if replacing the starter contacts and plunger would be the fix for your starting issue. If you have the tell-tale clicking when trying to start the truck or your starter actually gets stuck on, which was the case for me, I'd then say your starter could use some work. There's a good chance your issue is related to a bad connection. I'd make sure your battery terminals and post are clean first. Then I'd follow the cables and check for any looseness or corrosion at the connections. I wish I was more well-versed in the electrical system, but I'm not, and can't point you to where all the grounds are. I'd for sure check the power connection at the starter because that's exposed to all the elements splashing up and I could see that easily becoming corroded especially if you are dealing with road salts rusting everything on the undercarriage. Good luck and let me know how it goes.

I was thinking along those lines , so I put her up on some ramps I have and my home made creeper but could not confirm a particular spot , except I developed a oil leak that I need to pin point by taking off the brush shields and cleaning a little to help locate the leak . Or a UV dye to help spot it . The starter contacts I will have to view as preventative maint. also $25 for starter brushes along with the solenoid repair / rebuild kit I found on Ebay for $23 from CSS auto electric with one plunger , one house shaped black rubber gasket , two copper bolts one longer than the other, two contacts , one for each side , two O rings ,two square bushings black and two round black bushings four nuts , only part I don't see is the two flat washers but should not be a problem . So starter has a set of four brushes and I hope thats a complete rebuild . The only other thing was the preventative maint. on Alternator . Did your mechanic mention anything about bearings in Alternator there are two I believe , front and back or are those bearing a concern ? You know on my 4 cylinder the starter is on the drivers side . lol Well after this repair I will starter to save for those Toyota manuals . Planing this I will need to be creative lol . In the summer I did my radiator with a tarp tied from tree to tree angled down on one side for run off , but now we have a high of 43 degrees and drizzle . I will send a update on how repair went and how parts came and if matched . My neighbors think I'm nuts but your thoughts on Alternator bearings

There's a bearing for the alternator pulley on the front but I don't know of a second one. I'm not that well-versed in all the internal parts of an alternator. But, I think I'd just wait until something starts making a noise and wouldn't replace the bearings as preventative maintenance. A bad bearing usually makes noise first before completely failing so you usually have time to diagnose where the noise is coming from and replace the offending bearing wherever it is. I just figured replacing the contacts was a good preventative maintenance job to do since my mechanic friend told me he's seen lots of alternators fail due to worn brushes.

I can't remember if it's in the video and I don't feel like scanning the video to find out, but my rig had in the neighborhood of 150-160k when I did this job.

If you like wrenching, the tools will pay for themselves over time because shop labor rates are very expensive. I buy most of my tools via Amazon. I search for what I need and usually base my purchases from the reviews. If the tool gets good reviews, it's a usually a safe bet to purchase. As a DIYer, you don't need the crazy expensive tools like Snap-On and Matco. In the last 2 years, I've spent thousands on tools but I'm also doing quite a bit of wrenching these days so I'm making good use of them. The hard decisions for tool purchases are the ones that are very specific for a particular job and you probably won't ever need the tool again. In those circumstances, what you have to weigh is the money saved on the labor compared to the cost of the tool. The way I look at it, I'd rather buy the special tool, do the job myself because I'm going to make sure it's done right and then I can always help somebody else out with the special tool I bought or just sell it on Craigslist or Ebay. I bought a Harbor Freight press and special axle tool so I can do the rear axle seal repair. The Harbor Freight press can definitely be used for other jobs but the special axle tool is only useful for that one job. But, I have now used that axle tool extensively helping other dudes out while making a little coin for our party fund. Happy Wrenching!

Thanks for the tip.

Based off the mileage of my vehicle, how much length was left to the brushes, and what the FSM says the minimum length is, I'd assume the brushes theoretically could last as long as 300,000 miles. But, I'm glad I did them anyway. One less thing that could leave me stranded somewhere in BFE. It looked like to me there were flanges on the bracket and no sleeves. But, the next time I remove an alternator, I'll remember what you said. You're probably right. Removing the battery would have made maneuvering easier but I didn't think of it when I was in the throes of battle trying to get the alternator lined back up into the bracket. I sort of expected it was going to be a pain to get back in when it was a little work just to free it of the bracket and I was right. That telescoping mirror was invaluable to get the bolt holes lined up. Well, if one of those oil cooler hoses goes, I'll get more practice removing and replacing the alternator.

Ha ha. Watching you do this is helping me plan so I can get a few things done at the same time. I appreciate you taking the time to film. I know how much easier is just to push through without interruptions. Some things that help are seeing what tools work for a job, seeing how to get access to different areas. Seeing the part numbers makes it much quicker to order online. etc, etc I'm inspired to get at some of these repairs.

Good choice on keeping the Denso alternator. The CS 144 alternator is holding up well for Sean so far.

13.8 to 14.2 volts is the usual range alternators charge at. I would definitely try to salvage your Denso alternator before going to a replacement. Also, you can purchase a rebuilt Denso. If you're forced to replace your original alternator, I'd go the rebuilt Denso route.

Hey Andy, it's a combination of age and miles, but I'd say more so miles. If they aren't leaking or making noise, I wouldn't bother replacing them. They can last for much longer than 88k mileage.

It's an actual Toyota factory service manual. You can do a search on Ebay for your year and model and usually find a set for sale.

I don't know for sure but if I had to take a guess it was a M10 size.

I don't know if you can buy the socket from the dealer. You would need to go there and ask yourself. Is there any way you can rewire it. I know you can de-pin plugs for repairs or rewiring. Maybe you can de-pin that wire, install a new pin and wire and fix the original plug.

Glad you like the video. I've seen tests with torque wrenches and extensions and it's been proven extensions don't do what people originally thought. You can get an accurate torque value with an extension. Without the ability of using extensions with torque wrenches, there would be a whole lot of applications you couldn't use them for. So, I don't agree with you on this. You can throw off the torque value when you extend the lever like when you use a crows foot in-line with the torque wrench handle. When using a crows foot, you have to get the crows foot at a right angle to the torque wrench so it's not extending the leverage and changing the torqued value.

I bought that lighted mirror at Sears but I imagine if you did a search on Amazon you'd find one online. Thanks for the tip for the voltage finder probe.

Richard Avila Hey Richard, mine fought me as well. Some people have messed with the bushing and had success. What worked for me to get the bolt holes lined up was my telescoping mirror to see how I needed to adjust the alternator so the holes would line up perfectly. It was a pain in the ass but I finally got it.

It's definitely foot pounds not inch pounds. 25 inch pounds is nothing.

Timmy The Toolman Thanks Brother! I appreciate the feedback, as always!

You're welcome Brother Zach.

No, you don't.

Roger that Mr. Wizard.

Ok

Thanks for sharing this tip. Good luck with the brush replacement.

From the dealer. They're not that expensive. Visit your local Toyota Dealership Parts Department and they can look up the part and sell it to you.

Really? I don't remember a pin holding back the brushes when we did this job years ago

Well Steve, you would hope when you have somebody do work like this for you that they would make sure all the valve clearances are correct before putting the valve covers on and finishing the job. I haven't adjusted valves before but a buddy of mine did a valve adjustment on hie 3RZ engine. He said it wasn't bad but he had to alter the tool he bought a little so he could get the shims out and back in. The special tools you need are so you can rotate the cam and then hold the lobe while you measure and pull the shim. You measure with a feeler gauge and then compare to what the factory spec is whether it's an intake valve or exhaust valve. I bought the tools necessary and they are very affordable on Amazon. I think the Lisle company makes a two piece kit to rotate the cam and hold the spacing while you pull the shim. I bought the feeler gauges and a micrometer too so I can measure the shims. I think you could handle this yourself but you would need the factory service manual pages to follow the proper steps. It would put your vehicle out of commission for a while potentially because once you figure out the size shims you need to get back within proper specs, you might not find them available at the dealership and you'll have to order them and wait for them to arrive. If the valves are making an abnormal noise, I would say it would be smart to have them adjusted. I can hear some lifter or valve noise on my two 3rd Gen 4runners but it's not anything crazy loud. I don't know what damage could occur leaving it like this but I know engine performance would definitely suffer if your valves are way out of adjustment. If you paid for this job and it wasn't just a friend doing you a favor, I'd bring it back to him and ask why your engine is making so much noise. Ask him if he verified all the valve clearances were within factory spec. If he never verified it, he really should fix it for you unless you don't want him touching your vehicle anymore. I hope this helps.

Timmy The Toolman wow that actually looks like a pretty big job! I watched another guy's video on how to do it after first reading your response here. I'm not sure if it needs to be done or not, but it does seem a little noisier then before the head gaskets were replaced. And unfortunately I can't take the truck back because the guy that did the work was the boyfriend of my daughter, who was a mechanic, albeit not a very good one, or at least not a very conscientious one, despite recommendations from a few people. I got a "deal", but obviously I got what I paid for! HUGE lesson learned! I have spent months chasing after things here and there that he didn't put back together correctly just plain left loose, or broke in the process. Including recently finding a vacuum hose that was left disconnected that was keeping my 4 wheel drive from engaging. Didn't discover that until I needed four wheel drive right before a recent snow storm we had. And now the truck runs a whole lot better without that vacuum leak and it's getting better gas mileage! Geez! Searched for a vacuum leak a long time ago due to the weak performance, but I just couldn't track it down until I needed to search a little harder upon discovering no four-wheel drive! So my hope is that the basic work on replacing head gaskets was at least solid, but time will tell! Sometimes I feel like I'm probably driving a ticking time bomb though! 😂😜 Good thing it's not my daily driver. I guess I'll try to find a good local dedicated Toyota mechanic and at least let him listen to my engine and see what he thinks about those valves. Thanks again for the very thorough help and advice!! Steve

OK, good luck with this rig Steve. I bet you can handle the valve adjustment all on your own and you'll do just as good or better than a paid mechanic.

Timmy The Toolman thank you sir. We'll see! 😊

I've seen the Fix it Angel guy. He's the guy that never talks. Definitely a weird style but people seem to like him ok because he's got plenty of subscribers. I just think having someone talking and explaining things is pretty helpful in a DIY video. And, every DIY Mechanic knows about Scotty Kilmer. Another guy with a very unique style of yelling into the camera with his arms flailing about. I like Scotty though.

Timmy The Toolman the angel is non bilingual Hispanic .my guess anyhow Haven’t finished fix yet.ill get it. Been crazy lately.

@@wbwills2 Didn't think of that. But, the dude looks Filipino to me and even though a lot of them have hispanic sounding last names, they speak English, at least all the ones I've known. The California Bay Area where I live has a very large population of Filipinos. **Update - I just watched part of one his videos where he's actually talking to a lady at the beginning of the video and then when he starts the repair he goes silent again. The dude definitely speaks English but his voice isn't exactly a "radio quality" voice that you'd want to listen too and maybe that's why he has that no-talking style. Listen for yourself and you'll understand what I'm talking about: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SRC6wtczo4U.html

Timmy The Toolman voice is different .understand why he stays quiet now

It should fit as long as you have the OEM Denso alternator.

Do you have a local dealer parts department that you could visit? I'm pretty sure that's what I did because this is a hard part to look up. Did you pull the model number off your alternator and you're looking up the part number for the brushes that way?

Timmy The Toolman I searched by the TOYOTA brand alternator number nothing , then I searched by the DENSO equivalent and found the eBay brushes that way , the camelback site shows the brushes on the blueprint but aren’t in the parts for sale list

Well, the Ebay brushes might be the best way to go then unless you can visit a local dealer and have them look up the part for you and order it. You'll obviously pay more using the dealer. Maybe try calling Camelback and see if they can get the part. They are usually very helpful.

Timmy The Toolman hey Tim thanks for the advise , I contacted my local dealer ship and to my surprise they actually had them ,pretty pricey too lol

That's good they had the parts. Yeah, I bet they were pricey. I still use my local dealer parts department quite a bit. When I can't find something, I go there and they get it for me. The people I deal with there are all really cool so I actually like going in there. They know I have a RU-vid channel so they give me a 15% discount which is still more than online pricing but it makes it a little more affordable.

Only dash cam and I disconnected it. Yes, it’s a EOM alternator.

@@jeffguia7371 Ok, have you checked your grounds to see that they are tight and free of corrosion?

I will check all the ground I will give u update. Thank you

For some reason I struggled to get those brushes in. I tried with just my finger. No dice.

I'm not sure what the buzzing is, but I doubt it's the brushes. It could be the regulator or something else. I think the safe bet is to just replace it with a quality rebuilt unit. I'd recommend getting a Denso.

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for your reply! My alternator is a Denso & I also have another one that I haven't returned to get my core charge back. I'm gonna try using Autozone's Duralast Gold brand this time since they have a limited lifetime warranty and I've had good luck with their starters. Maybe I'll rebuild those two Denso alternators and use them as backups or sell them.

@@blacksheep6941 You're welcome. I'd definitely keep the two Denso alternators as backups.

Well, I'm not sure what you mean by the same. It would be a similar procedure to replace the brushes. I don't know if it would be the same part numbers unless the 80 series land cruisers used the same alternator.

Yes, it's worth a try replacing the brushes. Quite often, worn brushes are the reason for poor charging or no charging at all. Let me know how it turns out for you.

@@TimmyTheToolman: well they tested the alternator on the truck, said it was below normal voltage, like it was bad, took it off to buy another one at autozone, but had them test it on their machine instore before buying a new one. And then they said it was at back to 14 from 11.9 volts,,,saying it was good. Keep in mind the battery light was lit on the dash. So I'm like what's is going on, so I put the alternator back on, making sure the electrical connector clicked, tightened up the ground and, BOOM!!! ---THE BATTERY LIGHT DISSAPEARED. I'm super happy I didn't have to spend $138 on a new one, idk what it was but the light is off now.

@@israelrodriguez6986 A miraculous fix. Hope it holds up. If not, check the brushes.

Mileage isn’t always the answer to when you should replace them. You could get it out of the way and have one less thing on your mind. It’s all dependent on how many times you had to start your truck - so a soccer mom driving around town might need this done sooner than someone who has a lot of highway miles. At the very least, have it in your truck in case you need to do it on the fly out in BFE. - Sean

thanks. Your making sense I think 135k miles is definitely a decent interval to replace the alternator brushes

@@andyg5004 You're welcome.

Yep, we finally learned that trick. Thanks.

Keith Reynolds I agree with what you're saying. It's more of a situation of wearing out the belt prematurely instead of reducing the efficiency of driving the accessory.

The easiest way might be by the brand. If it's a Denso. It's OEM. If its something else, it's aftermarket.

Dude, that was the first video Sean and I made together. Here it is: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-N5fAXAuGozI.html

wow i don't know how i missed this one.

Do you know if you alternator is original? Is it a Denso model?

I just went to my local dealership, Stevens Creek Toyota, and one of the parts guys looked it up for me. My rig is a 2000 SR5 4x4 with the OEM alternator and it fit just fine. I don't remember the guy struggling to find the part number for me.

Yep, my 4Runner is the same as yours. I'm sure they will fit.

Yep, I reckon it will fit just fine.

Just did the alternator today. brush p/n noted in your video fits perfectly. Guess Toyota of Dallas online parts had a glitch on this one. 250k miles my brushes only stuck out about 1/8 inch after removal from the alternator.

Perfect timing. You were close to having a charging issue which would have killed your battery and caused you to be stuck somewhere. Then maybe a zombie horde could have surrounded your rig and you couldn't get away. Game over man.

Thanks for the history lesson Mr. Wizard. What era are we talking about?

@@TimmyTheToolman The 80's

Sounds like your alternator needed more than brushes to fix the charging issue. I would double check the charging though with a multimeter to confirm it’s not charging properly before replacing the alternator. I would buy a rebuilt Denso alternator and not some other aftermarket brand.

Open up the video description by clicking on "Show More" and we provide a link to where you can buy it from listed under the "Parts" heading. Or, you can take the part number we provide and buy it from another seller. Your choice.

We are very sorry we led you down the wrong path. Thanks a bunch for sharing this info so we can add it to our video description and pinned comment to prevent this from happening to others in the future.

That's a good idea for a video. Maybe we'll do it one day. But, I wonder how hard it would be to source the bearings.

They can be bought from Toyota. Of course if at anytime the viewers vehicle as had a replacement brand other than Denso they will run into bearing size compatibility issues like I did.

*COULD have compatibility issues

Gotcha. Always better to try to fix and keep your OEM Denso alternator because it's superior to anything aftermarket.

Sounds like it could be an alternator issue. Hook up a volt meter to see what the volts are doing.

Looks like who?

Hopefully. Good luck!

Because the brushes are constantly making contact with those areas, they were pretty darn clean, but we agree you could spend a little time since you're in there to make it uber clean. thanks for the comment.

You can't go wrong buying a rebuilt Denso.

Well Joe, the basic test I did show the alternator was charging even though I didn't put a load on it by revving the engine or by running the lights and accessory equipment. I'm just a DIYer and I don't proclaim to know everything. Since you obviously know something about how an alternator should be tested, why don't you share with us what we're looking for with the voltage readings when we put a load on the system so we can all learn something.

its your channel your job,also check for a/c voltage coming through more so on old suspect alternators aswell as current draw with everything switched off.

Actually JIS, Japanese Industrial Standard. We learned about JIS fasteners after shooting this video.

Thanks for the suggestion. Glad you like the video.

GsP1979 :-)

Amen 🙏🏼

Yeah, we try not to do the shake and bake with the camera so much and I think we're getting better but a lot of times we have to hold the camera by hand to get the shot we want and it's not the easiest thing to be holding the camera still while you're uncomfortably leaning over into the engine compartment while sometimes holding a light in the other hand as well.

So you're saying it's ok to have a loose squealing belt? I think covering how to get the belt tension correct is an important aspect of this video. I realize a belt would have to be significantly loose to cause a charging issue but you want the belt at the proper tension so it doesn't slip and squeal or put excessive pressure on the pulley bearings.

If it's a 99 4runner, then yes. The 3rd Gens with the 5VZ-FE engine all run the same alternator.

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for replying! I was asking because in the Amazon app it was saying the part was not compatible but I know sometimes Amazon info is not correct

@@seselapaz Yeah, I know what you mean.