Alternator wont charge battery not getting 14 volts ? 

My car there is no battery on dashboard its disappear but still it's not charging what would be the problem

@@wilbroadmchama1959 what was your fix?

​@@wilbroadmchama1959could be the battery light itself as current needs to flow through the bulb and back to the regulator on alternator for the battery to charge so if the bulb is blown then the circuit is open

​@@tranquilityaphelion8144could be the battery light itself as current needs to flow through the bulb and back to the regulator on alternator for the battery to charge so if the bulb is blown then the circuit is open

Where is it located in the hood or under dash?

@@thefaith6891 the 100 amp ALT fuse is under the hood, and it has to be “ bolted “ in, it’s not just a simple pull fuse.

@@julianayala03 the one connected to the terminal in the battery?! If so my car still doesn’t charge the battery is still intact the fuse. What else do you think it could be ?

@@thefaith6891 I’m not sure, It would be better if I could see pictures.

@@thefaith6891I hate to ask you for an email. But if there was a way I can send you pictures.

🤣🤣 if I could enlist those gremlins to help with mine I would!

@@kodysleeves1267 ( = :

What did you find issue

So you replaced the battery indicator LED bulb on the dashboard and then your alternator started charging again???? What kind of new bulb did you put in there, and how much work was it to get the instrument panel out to replace the bulb?

Yes a dead light in your dashboard can cause the alternator field winding to die in some cases

They like you to buy new cars not fix uo your owned cars. So they take some drugs and figutmre out how best to wreck your life and waste your money .. Lose your job. They have no mercy .they will deceive every tine they can . they didn't have to make it like this. They could have done different Fight back never buy a buy a new car.

Yes, big concern of mine too. I already needlessly replaced the alternator and battery, and it took me a couple days to zero in on this battery light issue. I tend to believe the theory that a worn out battery LED dash indicator can cause this problem. Strangely enough, mine seems to work when it is cold, but not when it is hot. In other words, start the car when it is cold and drive it all you want, and the alternator voltage will be fine, in the 13 volt range. BUT, shut off the engine, just for a minute, and the battery light doesn't come back on unless you let it cool off for about 15 minutes. If the battery light isn't on before you try to start the car, the alternator field winding will not get electrically tickled, and the alternator will not generate any voltage after the engine is started. So, I pulled out that whole instrument cluster, where the suspect battery LED circuit resides.. I figured it would be socketed LEDs, but this was not true! It's all surface mounted LEDs, nothing easily replaceable. So I was thinking about buying a new instrument cluster from the junkyard. But, then the engine mileage on the display would likely be wrong, and, as you say, the ECU may not like the new instrument cluster without a dealer reprogramming. And, the dealer isn't going to want to program a used instrument cluster. So now I am really stuck. I think you're looking at a couple thousand $$$ to get a new instrument cluster from the dealer. There must be some simple workaround to tickle that alternator "L" terminal at startup without having to buy a new instrument cluster.

Makes a 64 mercury comet an even better buy.

glad i could help you.

That’s seriously bad

@@NOBOX7 2j8 e uke

inline fuse on alternator wire thats hidden in secret place>?

yes but does your dash light work ? if your battery light doesnt come on when you turn on the car the alternater isnt geting a exciter voltage , that bulb goes out and the alternator doest work

yes its in series with the exciter voltage , no exciter voltage no alternator current

If the light is burnt out the field winding wont work on he alternator

​ @NOBOX7 d00d - can you answer his question? I'm curious too. You jump from a simple filament light behind the gauge cluster preventing alternator from charging to the ignition ECU fuse as a way to fix and confusing every body. The answer is these are 2 completely unrelated checks that can be done to diagnose non charging alternator. But you can simply respond to his question by saying: "I replaced both the light behind the dashboard and the fuse. +They are both separate issues and not related. As for the original post - the fuse box wouldnt contain a single fuse for a simple dashboard warning light. The fuse box would have a single fuse for the entirety of dashboard lights.

Yes a burnt out light bulb stops the field winding on the alternator from working

@@NOBOX7 is this only the case with the battery indicator light? I’m having same issue with new alternator not charging new battery. Alt fuse looks good. There is one light out on my cluster but it’s the backlight bulb on far right.

voltage regulator or some other fuse is blown , your not getting charge

you must have 14 volts or something is wrong , with car off it should be 12.7 to 13

It sounds like a fuse blew , maybe even a main fuse .

I think he was saying he shouldn’t have put that 10amp fuse in because that’s what stopped it , and that he needs to put his 5amp fuse back

Nikko Pinto yeah I figured that after but even right now I’m still testing and so far so good. It’s just the “CLOCK SPRING” has so much wiring and just so much going on. I think that is where my issue is. I had a full electrical test done and all they told me was “bad communications” but DONT know where. Also said they would check the clock spring and all the harnesses and what not but they didn’t. So far it’s been acting normal and I’ve just don’t so much that my car feels new again lol trying to figure this out. I think I did but the clock spring for my car is really only sold from Toyota and it’s over $600 lol so let’s hope not

I have a 2003 Camry and in 2019 the alternator failed several days later and after a very rainy episode as my wife was driving the car to and from work some thirty minutes each way. After few months I put in a remanufactured alternator and it worked, but only lasted for only 5 months, after that the alternator never charge the battery again even after I already returned that alternator under warranty and got a different one and installed in the car. I bought various alternators with high output but eventually returned them all because nothing I installed really giving me the workable solution. Well, the car is a serious handicap: I bought three extra batteries and charged them externally and swapped them out almost every other day in order to operate the car. I can go around here and within an hour distance, while I must carry a spare and charged up battery in the trunk. Of course, I am not giving it up yet and study various related topic here in RU-vid. Later, I checked all the fuses already, but not really helped yet. I just learned about the the Electrical Load Detector (ELD) so much, including bypassing the detector by using a 'shunt resistor' to avoid the haphazard 'detection' pattern due to either good/bad ELD at certain undesirable time in some older Honda cars, and now I am going to learn more on the Toyota cars' battery charging problems.

@@Noshameingame Yes, I also thought in that way. But, I rather not going back to use a 5 amp fuse, I would use the 7.5 amp for some increased operating current. Here is why, Power = voltage X current, (P = V * I) but power = (current)^2 * resistance . (P = I^2 * R) Also, P = V^2 / R in some formula derivations. So, one do not want to double any current rating in fuse rating as it is going to magnify by 4 X in power rating. What a nightmare in owning an older car!

@@nanymitert5447 is the vehicle missing any of the splash guards underneath the motor or inside the fender? rain will kill anything running on the serpentine belt if water sprays underneath there. I had my ac compressor and alternator pulley fail on a car before I realized they were getting wet.

I was wondering the same thing! So now I’m questioning wether I need to look at my interior fuses beneath my steering column, although my alt fuse is blown and I just installed a new alt **palms face**

Not that simple bud. Check reading at alternator first. If its above 14v your alternator is doing its job. If its not 14v at battery it might be a loose cable or bad ground.

I sure hope so

engine bay

Did you ever fix this problem?

burnt out light bulb in your dash board will cause this as well , if the light dont go on when you start the car its burnt out , the battery or alt light , that bulb excites the field winding of the alternator when you start your car so yes a burnt out ligh bulb can leave you stranded

@@NOBOX7 my brother am sick and suffering and changed alternator changed battery twice and still my car dies immediately what can i do it doesn't last 30 minutes yeah the battery volts drop from 17 v to 9 and the car shuts off did everything i can spent 200 on alternator and spent 120 on battery and spent 300 on mechanic my car is at the parking lot for 4 months am walking and suffering meeting from one mechanic to another

the battery lite needs replaced , its in series with the exciter coil

you need a voltmeter , see if your getting 14 volts

Just replace it with a new one. You should allways have spares in the car enyways.

not sure on bulb but some cars will die if bulb dies

@@NOBOX7 THATS CONCLUSIVE TO BE TELLING PPL THAT IM SURE IT WOULD SELDOM BE A BULB CAUSING THAT

if your not getting 14 volts with the engine reved up your alternater is shot ,if your battery is 12 volts its dead

no battery light and the alternator wont excite , so if the bulb is dead your car is dead

@@NOBOX7 can I run a diode and power from the fuse box to the exciter wire to get it to run until I have time to pull the dash apart?

your loosing field current if it goes below 13 volts you have a short or something , you should be at 14 volts

check your exciter wire connections ,12.9 volts is battery voltage or voltage under high current load this tells me the alternater is not charging you should see 14 volts all day

You may have hooked it up backwards , try again if lights dont go on when charger is on you have a blown fuse

@@NOBOX7 I hooked up the bactery charger cables. And the lights came on. Thank you so much for taking time to respond me. Your so kind. 😊

If your battery light is burnt out the alternator will not get current to the exciter coil and i you die stranded in the desert because a bunch of idiots thought it would be ok to have your care riding on a thin piece of tungsten light bulb . For some reason if your alternator light or battery light in some cases goes out the alternator will not charge . There is also a fuse in the engine bay. You may also have bad ground or faulty harness

time stamp ?

You can go to a junk yard and get a cheap one

you have a massive short , you starter fried ?

a bare wire is touching the frame or something or your starter is fried .

I believe my starter is ok but no guarantee , believe it may be a ground but can’t find it

What was it?

Did you ever resolve the problem? What was the cause?

If the bulb is flickering your not getting exciter voltage and the alternator wont charge

@@NOBOX7 How do I fix it? I've replaced the alternator (twice), the starter and the battery. Please I need help!

battery dash light goes out and your car dies

nope it wasn't

dash light bro if your battery dash lights goes out your done son

Sir there is also a fuse an inline fuse on an alternater some times , also there is an exciter voltage issue at times , if you get no volts from alternator you may have exciter wire fuse that is blown , its an inline fuse on a wire that is very hard to find . Or search for other fuses in your engine bay , it is comen to have hidded fuses and even a relay could blow check your chargind relay

Did you ever find the problem? My car is having same exact issue.

hmmm it may be fried does it ever turn on ? LED's do burn out

your ignition may be faulty

@@NOBOX7 even if the car starts When theres enough charge in battery ? Cause when it has juice it starts first time.

@@d4ngerous4exactly

If the battery light in your dash board burns out your alternator exciter coil will not engage. Stupid i know but some engineer decided your life should be in the hands of a single light bulb

Turn on the car with a fresh battery and see if the battery light lightsup . all lights light up on ignition so you can see if they work , thats why it deos that its a systems test

@@NOBOX7 thank you. I appreciate it!

@@anarivera9897 were you able to fix the issue with the alternator?

@@Xandro_B20 ended up being an electrical issue! A rodent had gotten into one of the wires and that was the entire issue, once I replaced the wire my car has been good as new! Thank you for asking!

Dashboard battery light , if that light burns out your exciter current to the alternator never initiates the magnetism to get your brand new alternator working

@@NOBOX7 the light is fine

Perhaps your ignition switch has failed my friend , this could also be an inline fuse but i havent seen an inline fuse for a long time , tcheck the small wires for a fuse

@@NOBOX7 ignition switch is fine. Does its jobs

your alternator is dead

Look in your manual for all the fuses . How many volts do you have when the car is running ? ids the light bulb in the battery signal burnt out ? does the battery light come on hen you turn on the key ?

we are showing you there are hidden fuses in cars not just 1 car specificly and there is no number on it its broke

What if my battery light stays lit? Replaced alternator. Charged up battery.. doesn’t seem to be registering car temperature either. Will this be a fuse issue possibly?

Car started drove it down the street, the battery light stayed lit. Then the car died and wouldn’t start again. Brand new alternator charged battery... I’m hoping this is just a fuse any suggestions? 2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5rs

@@williamr.6065 ever find out the issue?

@@williamr.6065 did it fix the issue?

@@Xandro_B20 ended up being a defective alternator