Amal 930 Concentric Mk1 Twin Carb Balancing Triumph Bonneville T140V 

Thanks.

Glad it helped mate!!!

Only way to be 100% is to give it a good run out and do a plug chop whilst trying not to burn your fingers. 😂

I do have access to an airflow gauge but I didn't bother with it on this bike as most people don't have one and my rattly old chop seems to run well enough as it is. And I always thought the carb bodies were made from some form of Swiss cheese...

Not my idea for two drill bits so I won’t take credit for that. Thanks for watching.

@@bodganeering Hullo again. I'd just like to report my findings. I have only a side-stand and without my bike being absolutely dead level I found my test-rods tended to "roll sideways" whenever the slides began to lift off. This rolling movement tended to confuse my eyes. So I found it better to wind in each slide stop screw until I could just feel the slide lose grip on the 3/16" rod. (This is actually little different from the method I'd previously devised/used myself with a single 4.5 mm drill bit.) Also, with my air screws I found a good starting point was to have them turned 2 1/2 turns open. (I could be wrong but I don't think you mentioned a starting point.) Also, in winding them inwards I had trouble finding distinct points where my rpms increased (unlike your videod experience) and I still think my idle can be bettered. (So now I think I'll revisit my ignition timing.)

Ideally your timing needs to be spot on. I did a previous video about cleaning and setting up the carbs, its 1 1/2 turns out on the air screws. The pilot circuits are renowned for blocking up on these carbs so they might be a little blocked. The rods do tend to roll around a bit, using a ruler with a straight edge helps keep them aligned and helps you see them dip.

@@bodganeering Thanks. My air boxes get in the way for me because I run with filtered air and they're a real pain to remove and refit.

I've got air boxes on my stock Bonnie and they are a pain in the bum. 🤣🤣🤣

These have the foam type stay up floats fitted that I got direct from Amal. Their website has been really helpful.

Idle should be around 800-900 RPM when warm. They can be a complete pain to get to idle properly and start easily, you tend to go between easy starting with high idle to correct idle with difficult starting so you may yoyo a bit trying to get it right. Also check your carb manifold bolts are tight with no air leaks as this can also cause the revs to hang. Thanks for your kind comment and sub.

@@bodganeering Thanks so much for the lightning quick response! The carbs I have on the bike are originals and I have done some 'work' on them to keep the slides from sticking so undoubtedly there is a bit of air leakage, but the bike starts easily at all RPM ranges but idles smoothest around 1300 RPM or so, but also idles lower. I am just at the stage to give this bike a test ride after ton's of work, so I'll take your good advice, set 'em at about 900 RPM, put a screwdriver in my pocket, and take it for a ride. Very much appreciate it!

There’s always an excuse for a test ride, I recommend at least one tank of fuel to make sure she gets a good run out.. 😎😂

It will be fine running on one cylinder whilst you do the carbs, the system runs through both coils at the same time using what's called a lost spark.

Fully in.

These were never fitted with the chokes. I’m not sure of which model bikes had them fitted but I know Triumph never really started using them until the late 70s early 80s.

yes...just remove the guts of the choke and make sure to fill the screw hole in the top with a nice fitting screw. I just fitted wassells to my t140 and did the same thing...i was lucky in that the old ones had screws in them for me ready to switch over.

My 78 T140V had the choke mechanism when I bought it 30 years ago, but I fairly soon realised it wasn't needed - it starts and runs from cold after a tickle. After years of leaving it where it was, I took it all out a few years ago and blanked it off. Two main advantages - it's tidier around the carbs without the choke lever and cables, and it's less fiddly removing and refitting throttle cables to oil them. Disadvantages - none. I have, of course, kept it all in case a future owner wants to return it to original, like all the parts I have upgraded.

My 78 T140V had the choke mechanism when I bought it 30 years ago, but I fairly soon realised it wasn't needed - it starts and runs from cold after a tickle. After years of leaving it where it was, I took it all out a few years ago and blanked it off. Two main advantages - it's tidier around the carbs without the choke lever and cables, and it's less fiddly removing and refitting throttle cables to oil them. Disadvantages - none. I have, of course, kept it all in case a future owner wants to return it to original, like all the parts I have upgraded.

Grab the rubber boot on the plug cap, or use an insulated pair of pliers.

The cable adjusters are manufactured about halfway down the cables before the splitters on these. There’s not a lot of room between the carb top and tank.

Very very slightly, I'm happy with it and the bike still runs well.

Start with the easy things first, take the plug out and wedge it against the cylinder head, reconnect the HT lead and start up to see if you have a spark. Do you have points or electronic ignition? If no spark swap the plugs over to see if it works on the other side. If it works you either have a duff HT lead, coil or timing problem. If it doesn't work you have a duff plug. If the plug is OK then try swapping the HT leads over, then the coils etc.

If you mean the balance pipe between the carb manifolds, no I didn't.

Not a filter as such just a bellmouth inlet.