Anker PowerHouse II 400 Teardown and Repairability Discussion

Подписаться 3,4 тыс.

Просмотров 1,5 тыс.

50% 1

The title pretty much says it all! A teardown of the PowerHouse II 400 (which seems to use the same enclosure as the PowerHouse II 300, and functionality/structurally similar to the PowerHouse II 800).
🔗 Link to Long-Term Review of the Anker SOLIX 1200 (757 PowerHouse): • Long-Term Review: Anke...
Watch to learn more!
⚡️Notice:
It is generally not recommended to open a device like this on carpeting. In the case of this video, the relative humidity was very high during this recording (71%), and with no translation across the flooring to create a buildup of potential energy, which posed a very low ESD risk.
⚠️ Disclaimer:
This video is for educational purposes only. Any and all work to repair a device is performed at your own risk. The Curious Engineer (TCE) is not responsible for any possible harm, damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of the provided information. Taking action from this video, is accepting that you proceed solely at your own risk.

Наука

Опубликовано:

11 июл 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 11

@lemisiovaea9520 14 дней назад

I have the same exact power supply as the one in this film. I used a charging source or plug that was too strong and now my anker powerhouse II 400 will not charge or even power up. Nothing pops up on lcd, does not light up or anything. It’s just dead. Do you know what it could be? Is there a video you have or know of that I can look at for assistance in repairing it, hopefully. It was a great and useful piece of equipment and I’d like to use it again. Thank you so much

@hiz-n-lowz1577 5 месяцев назад

Hey when your fuse blew from the inductive load did it take out the entire unit or just the ac inverter section?? Like did the Display come on or was the unit totally dead until the fuse got replaced? I have been given one of these that wont turn on and im wondering if it is the fuse, I dont have the charger for it.guess im gonna have to open her up. Thanls

@TheCuriousEngineerChannel 4 месяца назад

The unit still charged and discharged using the DC barrel jack or USB-C, and the all the USB ports and DC automotive accessory socket still worked. When I pressed the button for the AC outlet, the light would come on, but there would be 0Vac present at the output. Hope that helps!

@SHproTM 10 месяцев назад

Cool! thanks for this video! Mine is working well now but when I got it last winter it showed snowflake which means low temperature but after a few days it disappeared and started working. I wanted to disassemble it to find the temperature sensor... One stupid question. Is there any way to increase the inverter output to 220v (for EU devices)?

@TheCuriousEngineerChannel 9 месяцев назад

You are welcome! There are at least three temperature sensors: one on the inverter, and at least two inside the battery assembly. The inverter module cannot change output voltage; it’s a different board that is used for EU. The bulk capacitors along with other components are only rated 250Vdc, which would be exceeded by the ~310 Vdc needed for 220Vac.

@junkyardripper Месяц назад

Am i screwed if i fried my usb ports lol everything else is still working but its definitely draining the battery not sure what i should do i can definitely take it apart but if i have to solder and chips im cooked do you know of a way to get parts?

@junkyardripper Месяц назад

I'd be ok if I could just disconnect them but I can't tell from your video if that's possible

@TheCuriousEngineerChannel Месяц назад

How did you "fry" the usb ports? It might be that they just are in overcurrent lockout.

@junkyardripper Месяц назад

@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel sorry I didn't update but I figured I'd just check it out since now I know how to safely take it apart and I had to go all the way and get the front face off and found a 8205s mosfet was melted