Humorous, yet assertive approach, to addressing your displeasure. Whilst doing so you also gave great constructive criticism, aiding in bettering his awareness to such possible interferences, and quality of content for the future.
Also I'd like to say, good on you (creator) for taking his insight so well and acknowledging the issue. (With anything regarding a typed message) his context could have been clearly viewed as a tad harsh, and you didn't, instead you were respectful, acknowledging and owned up as a man with respect should.
I'm no guppy etc I won't always comment in depth to these things if you get me, but these type of interactions are rare and I couldn't ignore its mass display of mutual respect
PRICE MATCH these audio stores think the majority of these subs they sell are worth what they think they are. Do you research and show them proof of where you found it cheaper. But from a brick and mortar store.
Ill say this. I learned in the Army if a person knows the knowledges only then can they teach the knowledge. Ive watch almost everyone of this man videos and, im yet to see a single peice of advice he's said I disagree with, and I am the '07 Clash of Titans winner in my class. Im greatful for this man's knowledge. Even someone who knows nothing about car audio can watch his videos and learn correct and truthful information. He is a true gift to the car audio industry. Keep teaching my friend.
Check the terminals and see what the ohms are with a multimeter. If it's zero, you're blown. If it's way different than the rating of the sub, it's messed.
So true also make sure its reading 4 ohms for car audio and 8 ohms for home audio and 16 or 32 ohms for concert speakers The lower the ohms the harder the thump
Sometimes when they're new the adhesive is burning and it's nothing to be worried about. If the subs are in a sealed box the lack of air might be heating those voice coils. Sometimes we've switched to ported and don't have the problem anymore.
@@hi-techcaraudio4303mine had a smell at the beginning. i turned them up louder and when it was at its loudest (just over half volume) i smelled it again. in certain bass notes at around half volume it makes a weird clicking sound. any ideas?
@@brodypawloski6941 yea idk and on some bass notes they make a loud popping sound. i haven’t tried new grounding but they haven’t done this at all until recently and i’ve had them since june. my old sub was also on the same ground and had no problems, and it was 17 years old.
Can blown type r be repaired if it doesn't make the crunching noise when I push on them. 2 blown simultaneously? And is the new brand skar a good replacement?
I have my subwoofer in a sealed box and it pops, put it in a ported box and still it pops but in free air it sounds normal. What could it be? I sent it back to the manufacturer and they tested it out and it’s fine
No, that actually means your sub is working but may start clipping at higher volumes. (which could be due to gain, bass boost etc.) What we're referring to here is when a subwoofer is completely blown.
Idk if you solved this yet but could also be a wiring or power issue. Your amp could be going into protect or clip while volume is up to prevent damage. Could be wrong gauge wire or cheap wire, bad ground. Have a buddy play with the volume while you monitor the setup
It could also be a ground connection that's loose. Check your wire that grounds your amplifier and make sure it is 100% tightly connected to the frame.
Exactly so next time your at a pawn shop and they tell you to stop pushing on the speakers tell em to fuck off cuz they obviously hiddin something from you
Mines as well I test the speaker wire and get 2 ohms I also had the amp bench tested it works although the blue hiphonics light is out but green power light on. 2 r types are blown simultaneously they don't make crunching noise when I push on them they just DONT work!!
